vibration and noise at certain speeds
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=11467
Printed Date: September-29-2024 at 1:27pm
Topic: vibration and noise at certain speeds
Posted By: theumer
Subject: vibration and noise at certain speeds
Date Posted: August-04-2008 at 3:52pm
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Well I think almost all of the kinks are worked out of the boat, but had her out on the water this weekend and just one last thing is bothering me.
I get a slight vibration when I kick it in gear at idle speed...it's nothing too crazy, but enough for me to notice in the steering wheel. When I speed up, at certain speeds or possibly RPM I get the same vibration accompanied by some noise. Then at other speeds the boat runs perfectly smooth. I did notice that I get a fairly steady flow of water coming in from the prop shaft and was wondering if that could be the culprit? Any ideas or places to start? Is there a bushing or bearing to check where the shaft goes through the hull and how do you look at it? |
Replies:
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-04-2008 at 4:27pm
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you need to tighten the packing gland, water issue. And then you also need to check the alignment and/or replace the dampner plate, vibration. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: theumer
Date Posted: August-04-2008 at 4:40pm
| just had a tranny rebuild and alignment...also had new damper plate installed at that time...are there other common culprits to check? thanks for the help. |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-04-2008 at 4:46pm
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what about the prop is it dinged up?
Who aligned it? might have a low idle but that would only effect the inital vibration and not the at speed one. You may have got a cheap rebuild/parts on the tranny and alignment job. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: theumer
Date Posted: August-04-2008 at 4:50pm
| harbor marine in everett, wa did all the tranny/alignment work for me...prop looks good...almost feels like something under the boat could have a little play or is a little loose which vibrates at certain RPMs/speeds...the boat saw some salt use before i owned it so not sure if that helped something corrode/rust |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-04-2008 at 5:05pm
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check the strut bushings for side to side play, but they should have check that when they replaced the tranny and aligned it unless they did a half ass job like so many shops do. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: theumer
Date Posted: August-04-2008 at 5:09pm
| thanks for the help...yeah after the $$$ i spent i hope they didn't half ass it, but you never know. wish i could have sent it to eric, but the spline welded itself to the drive plate...not fun. i will check everything from the tranny back to make sure its all tight, and of course crank down that packing nut a little. i'll post results...could my hull just be making noise at certain speeds??? it's been doing this since i have owned the boat, improved slightly after tranny rebuild. |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: August-04-2008 at 5:38pm
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Chris is right on, you want to check that strut bearing now just grab and the prop and try to move left right, up down any movement is bad. Might also have a rudder that is loose and likes to chatter grab and wiggle that while you are under there.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: theumer
Date Posted: August-04-2008 at 5:44pm
| thanks for the pointers Joe....if that rudder wiggles is it time to replace or can it be tightened somehow? |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-04-2008 at 5:46pm
have somone help you and loosen the packing gland and push it up then tighten the packing gland down for the rudder. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
theumer wrote:Posted By: theumer
Date Posted: August-04-2008 at 9:25pm
| so after spending a couple minutes with the boat in the driveway today, i rotated the shaft to see how it felt. It rotates pretty freely most of the way around, but there is a small spot where it feels just a little tighter. could that be the source of my vibration? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-04-2008 at 9:37pm
The shaft should feel the same all the way around. To me, it sounds like your shaft is bent. When this so called marina aligned the trans, did they bother checking the shaft? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: theumer
Date Posted: August-04-2008 at 9:39pm
| i am assuming not...might be worth a call...they did give me a one year warranty on the tranny so maybe i can WTF them on this one. should be buttery smooth after the money i spent there. add this to the lessons learned book for me. |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-05-2008 at 10:08am
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either the shaft is bent or it is not aligned properly. Did you check the side to side and up and down play as well as the rotation check you did? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-05-2008 at 10:19am
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theumer, Have you seen the pictorial thread Eric did on alignment? It really is pretty basic and only requires some basic tools. (2 9/16" wrenches and a feeler gauge) If I were you, I'd unbolt the shaft coupling halves at the trans and check the alignment myself. When checking, you can check for a bent shaft forward of the strut at the same time. It takes about 30 extra seconds!!! I wouldn't trust the marina. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: August-05-2008 at 10:35am
You must be using the Force to adjust it?!!?  ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-05-2008 at 10:44am
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Mike at harbor marine is good with tranny's, but i dont know who did the install, im sure you took out a second mortgage after you left there, but, whats done is done and he may of eyeballed the alignment and thought it was good. i would go back through and check everything
i just finished a tow boat after 3 rebuilds and mine was the fourth, the first thing i did was check the alignment and it was out .021 and the mounts were froze and never touched and i had the customer take the mount to the guy's shop and his kid said you'll never break that free......to end the story my customer asked him i thought i paid you to align it....we did get it freed up and i got the alignment dead on and no more overheat on the trans. This guy should of never had to go through this, his boat was down 4 weeks and probably lost 20 or 30 tows at 400.00 to 500.00 per tow |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-05-2008 at 10:48am
Theumer, Greg is working me over here so I had better clarify my statement. The tools mentioned are needed to CHECK the alignment. To actually align the engine, larger wrenches are needed for the engine mounts!!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-05-2008 at 10:55am
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I used a crowbar to shove the engine side-to-side - didn't take much - it was obvious how much it moved but a pencil mark would be a good idea so you can go back to your starting point if need be. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: August-05-2008 at 11:04am
I was only saying good morning Pete.  ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-05-2008 at 11:18am
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Good morning to you as well Greg!! No cam shaft yet? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: August-05-2008 at 11:31am
Hopefully it'll show today. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: theumer
Date Posted: August-05-2008 at 3:53pm
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yes second mortgage is unfortunately history now. ..mike was awesome and knowledgeable and did a great job, but he was only the rebuild guy. the reinstall and other maintenance just went through their service department not the tranny shop.
eric i have read your post on alignment which is awesome by the way. i did run the boat for about four hours with no overheat issues, and the tranny wasn't too hot to touch...i checked for play and there wasn't anything near the cutlass bearing. the only thing i noticed was a little play where the (excuse my terminology) coupling bolts up to the shaft??? finally, how can you tell the difference between a bent shaft and misalignment? will it be obvious as soon as i unbolt the drive shaft? i'll have the crowbar on standby to move the engine
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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-05-2008 at 4:04pm
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if you unbolt and check the gaps and the gap stays in the same place after rotating its alignment, if you check the gap and spin the shaft 180 degrees and the gap follows to that side its a bent shaft. but 9 times out of ten the shaft bends after the strut, so put on your fake a lake and run the boat in the drive and have someone kick it in gear (be frickin careful) that unbinds me from the liability......
watch the tip of the shaft, if its bent you will see it, if your wondering about the little wobble it may have, its bent. no need to put an dial indicater on it if you see wobble |
Posted By: theumer
Date Posted: August-05-2008 at 4:14pm
| thanks eric i'll be sure to keep my distance from that prop...so i guess i will hope for a slight misalignment which would be the economical fix out of the two. |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-05-2008 at 4:19pm
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your going to need two water supplies as well if you kick it into gear otherwise you might destroy the bushings in the strut if you do not keep it wet. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: theumer
Date Posted: August-05-2008 at 4:29pm
| good point...don't want to diagnose one problem and cause another. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-06-2008 at 9:24am
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Eric!! You forgot to mention the water on the cutlass. In this thread it was a issue and I blamed someone on PN, Wake World or Tubing News for mentioning putting a boat in gear with the bearing dry!!
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=11197&PN=1 - running boat on trailer I'm going to have to send Chris over to your shop to make sure your posts are correct! Don't go and tell me it's ok for a second to run it dry ether. The shaft will probably vibrate in the cutlass to the point it will be a blur and you won't see any wobble. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-06-2008 at 10:03am
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i forgot to mention not to wear a scarf while watching the shaft turn too....
some common sense is requried and i have a tendency to forget that everyone doesnt have common sense side note: I use wd 40 when doing this method and i dont leave the boat in gear for extended periods, i will have someone in the boat and will tell them to snap it in gear, look for a wobble and thats it. Pete this method hasnt failed me yet, if its bent you will see it, alot of times it will run true before the cutlass and wobble after the cutlass liabilty clause: dont try this at home under no circumstance |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: August-06-2008 at 10:23am
Long hair, loose shirt-tails, shoe strings, baggy shorts...this isn't much different than working on a lathe or table saw, but I've seen some things!  ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-06-2008 at 10:30am
I think they stopped showing the horror films in high school shop class of people getting scalped with long hair at rotating equipment. Kids were going into shock and fainting!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-06-2008 at 10:34am
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on a certain website of all horrific accidents, a guy got his hair caught in the lathe, it wasnt pretty....everytime i run the lathe i think of this guy and im picking my finger nail as we speak because the chuck bit me yesterday ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-06-2008 at 10:39am
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Eric, I just want you to know that I did realize you just forgot to mention the lube on the cutlass. Yes, sometimes we forget to mention the common sence items as "givens". ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-06-2008 at 10:50am
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I should no better, from some of the conversations I've had with people over the years ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: farmer
Date Posted: August-13-2008 at 12:31am
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Is there an acceptable amount of play for the cutlass bearing ? I can feel some movement in mine in every direction but I don't have any issues while running. Farmer ------------- Watch your fingers. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-13-2008 at 8:41am
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Gary, If it's noticable by hand, then I'd say it time to think about putting in a new cutlass. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Madcap
Date Posted: August-13-2008 at 8:34pm
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Standard reading for shaft problems:
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/Alignment2.htm - David Pascoe On Shaft Alignment problems ------------- '99 SN Air Tique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-13-2008 at 9:54pm
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I take all i ever said about alignment back, some good reading but some bad reading also, decide for your self ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: August-13-2008 at 10:08pm
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whre's the topic on replacing the cutlass bearing? Mine has some movement too and I feel some vibration at certain speeds. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-14-2008 at 12:31am
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Funny thing, my cutlass bearing has some play, about .015 inch. Both the bearing & shaft are new, had this play at installation, I didn't think it was wrong at the time. So SkiDim's bearings are not good? ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Madcap
Date Posted: August-14-2008 at 1:04am
Pardon me Eric - that link wasn't meant as a counterpoint to anything you've said. Given what I've read here, if my transmission ever hiccups you'll be my first call. ------------- '99 SN Air Tique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-14-2008 at 9:48am
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I had to read through again and decide this morning, Surveyors normally get thier information from guy's that work on boats, ....but about 25% of the transmissions i see are failed from Mis-aligned boats, i have about 10 bad cases that spin 1" shafts on my shelf that are grooved on either the side of the case or up and down.
No its not a perfect world and the article seems as if your boat is out of line its OK, Alignment is important enough that someone took the time to write about it, but it is mis-leading. it is the same as saying your boat has a miss at idle but it still runs so dont bother fixing it. he goes on saying a MA boat is due to worn mounts but doesnt say hey....maybe you should put some new mounts in to get it close to a new boat again. Im going out on a limb here, I deal with surveyors quite regularly, I dont call them to ask them questions, the (majority of them) dont take this the wrong way, lets put it this way...I have fooled many of them with a pile of transmission parts basically they have no f-ing idea what they are looking at. they are normally the biased opinion for the insurance companies. I'll end that there. when you get a transmission that fails 2 times and on the third time the guy brings you the boat and you check the alignment and its out .021 at the faces and you get that (not so critical) alignment within the .003 or under and rebuild the trans the 3rd time and send him on his merry way and you never hear from him again.....I would say alignment is pretty damn critical Madcap, no problem, it was good reading if i knew absolutely nothing about maintaining a boats alignment and if you take his advice i will gladly rebuild your trans lol ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-14-2008 at 3:47pm
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I checked my strut bearing play with a dial indicator - play is less than .005, not .015. Me bad for putting a # against an eyball observation.
A side benefit of this thread is that I noticed my prop was no longer tight on the taper (it was tight 2 weeks ago). So you guys saved me $350 right there. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-19-2008 at 9:43am
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Pete, some good reading on alignment ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: boardersdad
Date Posted: June-19-2013 at 6:08am
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I realize this is an old thread, but it discusses the exact points I have questions on. The other related thread I found was http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=11197" rel="nofollow - noise when in gear on the trailer . I recently bought our first wake boat for my son and daughter, a 1984 SN2001. The previous owner ran the engine on the trailer without water. I've replaced the RWP impeller, which was missing four vanes, etiher due to the dry running or age (don't want to start that argument again, as I saw in another thread!). (Note: We pulled, flushed and examined every hose and found one of the vanes; pulled the thermostat housing; haven't pulled manifolds or risers--maybe this Fall if they end up leaking at all.) Anyway, I digress... I think the boat may have been put in gear while on the trailer, as well. So... 1. How do I check the packing box and strut cutlass bearing to see if they've been damaged? I want to do this on the trailer, as the lake is a pretty good drive from here. 2. After reading many threads on this, I really would like to check the prop shaft for wobble, as well as check the transmission, with the boat on the trailer. Is there a way to keep enough water flowing on the packing box (from underneath) and on the cutlass bearing to allow *briefly* shifting into forward and reverse at idle speed? I read about using WD40 on the cutlass, and that's a possibility, but if there's a "standard" way to apply water I'd be glad to go that way. (We're introducing raw water through the raw water pickup hose, which is pulled from the hull fitting and kept in a bucket with replenished water from a garden hose--also primed all hoses as much as possible. This works better than I thought it would. I'll probably eventually add the T-fitting in the hose between the strainer and the tranny cooler.) Thanks. Don't shoot the newbie. :) |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: June-19-2013 at 8:53am
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Steve - Putting the tranny in gear on trailer isn't recommended, but if you realty want to then just wet the strut bushings with water (soapy is better) & maybe even spray up into the log. Keep the time in gear short. The packing box just needs to not leak too much nor get tool hot, so if it is doing neither of those, then your good to go. However, replacing the packing is a $10/ 2 hour project so why not set your mind at ease? There is a 'How to' Thread here somewhere. The cutlass bearing can be checked visually by looking at each end of strut, they typically wear more on one side. Another way is to move the shaft & see how much clearance there is. The best way to detect bent shaft is to do an alignment. If you can get it aligned within .003 inch, next turn the shaft to all 90 deg clockings & see if it stays within .003, if so then most likely the shaft is good. If you still are getting vibration after that check, then maybe the shaft is bent right at the prop taper. A dial indicator would be the best check at that spot. See Bones71 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=29981&KW=&title=dings-in-prop" rel="nofollow - post Good luck & let us know what you find. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-19-2013 at 7:53pm
I concur with Chris. The dial indicator is the only way to go aft of the strut. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: boardersdad
Date Posted: June-20-2013 at 3:23pm
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Thanks, Chris and Peter. I will check the packing box drip rate and warmth on the lake. I think repacking the box is something I'll look at this Fall or next Spring, unless there's a problem. I agree--I'll sleep better having done it. My son and I did the best inspection we could at the business end of the boat. Here is what we found: CUTLASS BEARING: -- The ends of the rubber bushing show little wear (if any), and the rubber thickness looks pretty constant all the way around, both front and back of the strut cylinder. -- I grabbed the prop and tried to move it, motor not running (obviously!) and shifter in neutral. I cannot feel any play left-right, up-down, fore-aft. That really surprised me for some reason. Maybe the cutlass bearing was replaced not so long ago. PROPELLER: -- The prop is a brand new ACME 540, bought by the previous owner. I am concerned about the mounting--it is mounted with a steel washer and nut, both of which are rusting! I will remove those and pull the prop (puller coming). I will check if the prop needs to be lapped to the shaft. Do you guys recommend mounting with a nylon lock brass prop nut, or the dual lock nut system, or a nut with cotter pin (not sure if there's a hole in the shaft)? If the brass lock nut, does a brass washer go on first? RUDDER: -- I also checked the play in the rudder. It moved more than I expected. The movement is angular canting in the mount above the hull surface. The mounting plate (with four screws) does not move at all. It's hard to quantify angles of movement, so I will give you how far the bottom of the rudder moved when the rudder "canted" in it's mount. Left-right and fore-aft: the rudder bottom moves a little less than 1/16", probably about 50 thousandths. I can make the mount give a dull "thud". Up-down: maybe 25 thousandths of play, no "thud". I've looked at photos of the part and it looks like there is a zerk fitting, but I'm wondering if the fuel tank has to be pulled to access the fitting (or maybe drop the rudder mount plate)?. Is the play I have normal, or do you think it needs some marine grease, or do you think a bushing is worn out? No issues with the operation of the steering--just this play in the rudder when I'm laying on the ground tugging on it. Thank you, gentlemen, I appreciate your knowledge and experience. Steve |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: June-20-2013 at 7:21pm
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Some play in the rudder is OK. Nylock nut OK for prop. Wait on the lapping if prop is still tight. Grease is not really needed on rudder shaft. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: boardersdad
Date Posted: June-21-2013 at 9:36pm
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Thanks, Chris. I've ordered a locknut and key. Also ordered the GFO packing, both 3/16" and 1/4", and some safety wire. I'm curious about the prop... if it is tight then why/when should it be lapped? I understand the benefit of more contact area, but am wondering what problems arise if it hasn't been lapped on. Also curious about the rudder shaft. Does it not need grease because of the materials it's made of, or is a little friction beneficial to the steering feel? Thanks! I'm learning. Steve |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-22-2013 at 6:53am
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Steve, Chris and I agree 99.9% of the time since I believe our minds think the same but in this case I have to disagree regarding the lapping. The prop may seem tight but is it really seated on the taper? You really don't know until you pull it. It may only seem tight from the shaft/prop nut being tight. It's the taper fit that does the work of holding the prop on and keeps it running true to the shaft. Considering the prop was installed with a steel nut and steel washer that are rusting, I'd say the PO was a hack!! Sorry but pull the prop and lap it in. Yes, the brass "nylock" or a brass castle nut is the way to go. Do not put a stainless nut on the stainless shaft. They gall up locking up the threads - I've been there from a PO who didn't know the difference! As Chris mentioned, it sounds like you are good on the rudder. Up and down there is always some play. Even port to starboard there is some too due to slack in the system. Rudder ports are sloppy! If it's not leaking then it's good. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: boardersdad
Date Posted: July-05-2013 at 7:01pm
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Update: It was easy to get the rusted nut and washer off, but it took me a long time to clean off the staining they left on the driveshaft threads and front boss of the prop. I alternated spraying with carb cleaner and powerblaster, cleaning with soft rags only. I didn't want to use a steel brush and embed pieces of steel in the metal, only to end up with more local rusting. It looks really good now, and there is no pitting. I went ahead and lapped the prop to driveshaft taper. Prussian blue showed about 66% contact to start with (pretty good, I thought); now I've got 85% to 90% contact. About 9 or 10 lapping revolutions. Secured with a new brass nylock nut and it's good to go. I wasn't able to detect (visually) and shaft wobble or whirling. Haven't broke out a dial indicator or done an alignment yet--working my way through plenty of issues getting the boat ready for the kids on our upcoming vacation. Separate posts coming about the packing box and driveshaft. Thank you for your help, gentlemen. Steve |