winterizing
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12136
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 6:50am
Topic: winterizing
Posted By: baumanmt
Subject: winterizing
Date Posted: October-10-2008 at 1:47pm
well sadly enough winter is here again, and the boat must be put awayJavaScript:AddSmileyIcon(' '). I don't want to be repeating everyhting, because the posts on this topic are already covering everything very well, thanks for that guys. It is 27 degrees this morning and gonna be 18 on sunday, so I need to get on it! I installed a flush pro on my 84 SN, and it sounded like I could just put a hose in a bucket of antifreeze and suck it in until the green fluid comes out the back. Then would I not drain it after that? Should I fog it also, and do you take out plugs? It will be below zero here for a long time and every year with my old boat I would stress over my winterization job, with my new boat I want to be sure that next spring I will be good to go. Thanks for all the help, you guys and this site are a life saver!------------- gb842001 |
Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-10-2008 at 1:56pm
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Greg, you can suck up the antifreeze if you want- though I think thats a more difficult approach than what PCM recommends. Nonetheless, no matter how you get the antifreeze into the block, you should drain it FIRST to ensure the proper mixture. Dont drain it after- that defeats the purpose of putting it in!
PCM recommends pulling the RWP for the winter, and pouring the A/F into the block: 
Theres a good winterization procedure in the http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=8368&PN=2 - Common Questions forum. ------------- |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: October-10-2008 at 2:28pm
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If you suck up the antifreeze with the RWP, and the t-stat is closed, it will just go out the exhaust and not in the engine. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: October-10-2008 at 2:36pm
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Do it by the book, it will work. What is not clear from above, is that you must drain the block first (both sides). Drain the elbow adjacent to the RWP (see above photo). Remove the strainer bowl and drain. Ensure no water trapped in heat exchanger (not possible on my setup). Drain exhaust manifolds. I think that is all. ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-10-2008 at 2:42pm
Not true if you drain first, at least on the PCM Fords. In that system, the 'stat allows/prevents fluid from exiting the block- it will always allow fluid to fill it if its empty. DavidF, good point- the thread I linked to above includes a decent procedure and a picture of all the PCM drain points: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=8368&PN=2 - Common Questions Winterization Thread You forgot to mention that you should pull the lower hose to the tranny cooler and blow out any lines running to heaters/showers, etc.  ------------- |
Tim D wrote:Posted By: David F
Date Posted: October-10-2008 at 2:56pm
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Oh yea, heaters and showers. None of my boats until recently had a heater or shower. My "new" boat has both and this winter will be my first time to winterize a shower. I yanked out the heater already. Shower will probably go next. No need for either here in Texas and I do not get in the water before May or after October. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-10-2008 at 3:02pm
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Greg,
I'd just like to make a comment regarding the flush pro. They were really designed as a easy means of flushing the engine usually after running in salt water. Then as a easy hook up for running the engine out of the water. I really don't know where this idea came from to use it to suck up the antifreeze for winterizing. The idea must have come from one of the guys over on PN!!! Even though Perko states it can be used, I feel there are just too many draw backs to using it. (Billy Mays must have been Perkos maketing director at one time!) Stick with draining the engine and pouring in the antifreeze. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-10-2008 at 3:28pm
What are you doing with them? ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-10-2008 at 3:45pm
Vulture! ... but since you already said something, I know someone who needs a heater BADLY as well! ------------- |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: October-10-2008 at 3:55pm
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Heater went in the trash can. Since it was already bypassed, I assumed it was leaking. Switch stays put for now until I revise my ballast system and replace with the heater switch with ballast switches.
Not sure about the shower, but I think the pump is bad as it seems to run for about 1 second and then nothing. Makes bad noises during that one second run time. Water probably froze in the pump. ------------- |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-10-2008 at 4:09pm
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Dang, I just want the heater core/blower assembly anyway. ------------- |
Posted By: baumanmt
Date Posted: October-11-2008 at 2:53pm
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Thanks guys- I'm gonna stick to the books procedure and not use the flush pro. I do use the flush pro to run my motor at home, is that ok?
TrBenj- thanks for the link in common questions, I was looking for that, and wasn't able to find it, Thanks ------------- gb842001 |