1993 Nautique Excel Questions
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12366
Printed Date: November-13-2024 at 9:46pm
Topic: 1993 Nautique Excel Questions
Posted By: LKG_
Subject: 1993 Nautique Excel Questions
Date Posted: November-11-2008 at 9:08pm
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I just picked up a 1993 Nautique Excel about a month ago. It's a 5.8L PCM V-Drive. It is in great shape, but like most boats it needs a few little things. I'm going to take it for the last ride of the season this weekend, but I'd like to start knocking out some of the issues.
First, the blower is dead. It'll actually run for about 10 seconds while making a wretched noise, but then it locks up and dies. At least the wiring is good though and the part is pretty cheap. I forgot to look at it the last time I used it to see if it was a 3" or 4". Does anyone know off the top of their head? If worst comes to worst I'm going to buy both and return whichever one I didn't need, but I'd like to save the extra step if possible. Also, the carburetor is dripping a small amount of gas on the intake manifold. It looked to me like it was coming from a leaky gasket on the back bowl. I know it's a Holley carb, but what do I need to tell the people at the auto parts store so that they'll give me the right gasket for it? Leaking carb + bad blower...You can see why I want to knock these things out asap. 
Also, how do I find the right oil filter? Do the guide books at Advance Auto have boat engines listed in them? How many quarts of oil do I need to do an oil change? |
Replies:
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-11-2008 at 9:16pm
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Filter is a FL1 or equivalent Ford V8 filter - don't use a fram!
Don't go boating with a gas leak! Get it fixed first. Holley gaskets are very affordable & available at any speed shop. We don't want to lose a member! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: November-11-2008 at 11:35pm
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the thing with gas dripping on a hot surface it really really really raises its flashpoint and with the blower the way it is, the bushings are probably out of it and causing a slight wobble opening the clearance to where the fumes may sneak in and ignite from the brushes arc
as snob mentioned..... ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-12-2008 at 11:50am
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Blower *should* be 3".
Like SN said, get yourself a Motorcraft FL1A or NAPA 1515 (equivalent to a Wix 51515). Both are good oil filters, and relatively inexpensive. Holley gaskets can vary slightly- you'll need the carburetor LIST number to make sure you get the right one. That number is stamped on the choke horn (LIST-xxxxx). I suggest you get a good set of blue (reusable) Holley gaskets, or better yet, the whole rebuild kit. Holley can tell you which kit you need based on your LIST number (their tech line is 270-782-2900). Summit has good pricing on them- usually $30-40. ------------- |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: November-12-2008 at 6:07pm
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Hmmm...I'll get that list number when I get to the lake Friday night and run into town to pick up the gasket Saturday morning. I thought the ones on the back bowl were pretty standard for some reason. What size carburetor came on these boats from the factory?
I'll definitely have the new blower. At this point I'm just planning to buy both sizes and return the one I don't need unless someone can say for sure what size it is. That's one of the benefits of living 5 miles from Overtons I guess. And don't worry; no plans to use a Fram filter. I'm a PureOne fan, but the Napa and Motorcraft ones are good as well. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-14-2008 at 8:40am
lowers - But we do know what you mean!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
eric lavine wrote:Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: November-18-2008 at 3:23pm
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What weight oil do you guys run in your vDrive units and transmissions? I want to go ahead and change all the fluids since you never really know how old they are when you buy a used boat. It would be rare for me to run in temperatures less than 75 degrees so thicker oils are probably better.
I got the blower fixed last weekend and did a few little miscellaneous things before winterizing it. I tried choking the engine by dumping Marvel Mystery oil into the air intake, but it didn't actually shut off...It just produced a massive amount of white smoke. I guess that's better than nothing? I hope I got everything. I basically followed this procedure: Winterization - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=8368&PN=2 I didn't pull the lower hose from the transmission cooler. It had a drain plug at the bottom so I just pulled the plug. I also found a plug on the vDrive unit that drained a ton of water. Of course I found this after pulling a plug that dumped a bunch of oil into the bilge of the boat. 
Is there supposed to be a drain on the transmission itself or do you just drain the transmission cooler in the above link? It's my first time winterizing a boat, so I want to make sure I get everything. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-18-2008 at 3:46pm
The winterization thread that you followed is a good reference- but it doesnt touch an anything specific to a v-drive. Sounds like you found the drain for it, but maybe Eric will confirm. There is no water in the transmission- only the cooler, so you got it all. FYI, be VERY careful using the drain on the cooler- Ive had the whole drain fitting break right off. I highly recommend pulling the lower hose instead next time. As far as tranny fluid goes, I believe you have a PCM 1:1 in that boat. If thats the case I *believe* you want to use the same fluid recommended for all the other Velvet Drives and PCM's- conventional Dexron/Mercon. Eric likes the Valvoline Dex/Merc, so thats what I use. Do NOT use synthetic fluid. ------------- |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: November-18-2008 at 5:14pm
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It's a velvet drive transmission.
I'm pretty sure I got the only water plug on the vDrive. The plug itself was corroded really badly and will have to be replaced. It was rotted through to the end threads and wouldn't go back in. I wish I had pulled the hose going to the vDrive unit too, but I didn't think about it until I was on the way home. I'm planning to replace the cooling hoses next year anyway (they're almost all starting to crack) so if the hose itself pops it will be ok. I did pull the hoses that go to the thermostat housing and drained a lot of water out of them. |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: November-19-2008 at 6:36pm
What is the thing with the orange top at the bottom right of this pic? Is that the fuel/water separator? |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: November-19-2008 at 6:59pm
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Yes. There is a plug on the bottom to just drain the water (and fuel) out. To change the filter the whole black case has to come off. ------------- |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: November-19-2008 at 10:00pm
| So it acts as both a fuel filter and a fuel/water separator? Is there normally another fuel filter? |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: November-20-2008 at 2:40am
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I miss my old Excel - Great Boat. Wake is a bit hard for skiing but trick/boarding wake is great. VERY Comfy and dry too.. enjoy! 
BTW - the fuel separator is mounted differently in the Excel (But you have already seen that... those carpeted side panels sure open up the engine access). ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: November-20-2008 at 2:09pm
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Thanks. I haven't had a chance to wakeboard behind it yet, but I have ridden behind a mid-90's Sport Nautique. If mine has a similar wake I'll be really happy. Did you weight yours? I'm planning to shove 300-500 lbs of lead in the bow and run a pair of v-Drive sacs on both sides of the engine.
I wasn't really planning to buy a boat this year, but this one came along for a great price. When I read that 1993 was the first year that they didn't use any wood in the floor or stringers I was pretty much sold on it. I was trying not to buy a project and all the other boats I looked at had soft floors, rotted stringers, cracks where the floors met the stringers, etc. By the way, it was a 3" blower in case anyone ever runs across this thread searching for the same info. Here is a pic: 
|
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: November-20-2008 at 8:41pm
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LKG (Andy)
I was at the lake 2 weeks ago, saw your new boat (thought it was Chris's) She sure is fine, congrates. I was there long enough to turn the water off, turn the heat on & grab my canoe. Could you shoot me a e-mail at work with Chris's # so I can keep up with you guys. Thanks and I know you did your home work. Wecome to the BEST brand of water sports boats Correct Craft!!! -Andy- andrew.owsiak@navy.mil ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: November-21-2008 at 12:39am
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LKG: The Excel's wake is quite different than the Sport of that era. The Excel's wake is wide and hard with defined lip and high flat table. They did not have the more dished table of the Sport. The wake of the Barefoot (454) is still different than that of the Excel (351) due to the significant extra weight of the engine. The Barefoot's wake table is rampier and slightly harder. They are great beginner to intermediate board wakes esp. with ballast. The fellow who bought the Excel from me surfed with her. Not quite sure of the ballast setup but it can be done (I'm not a big fan of the near swamping setup of surfing these era boats). If you come up to Virginia - hang with us at Smith Mountain. Excels always welcome!! ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: November-21-2008 at 1:53am
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^ I've heard Nautiques don't usually surf very well on the regular side. I figured I'd give it a try, but if it doesn't work I'm just going to use this boat for wakeboarding. I'm not setting up a goofy wake for all my friends to enjoy if I can't enjoy it too. I'm spoiled by having friends with Wakesetters, VRides, and Avalanches; so I can always pull them on the early morning wakeboard runs in exchange for mid-day surf runs behind their boats.
SML sounds fun. Isn't that where they have the big Malibu party weekend every year? Do you ride with any of the ATV crowd up there? ^^ I sent you an e-mail earlier with all that info. I'll catch you up there one weekend. |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: December-05-2008 at 12:36am
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you rigth with the regular side wake for surfing being worst than goofy side. I think its because the rotation of the prop. regarding ballast i found the best set up for my regular side is using 2 600 lb sacs on the regular side of the boat. ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: April-02-2009 at 6:15pm
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Planning to get her ready for spring this weekend.
I cleaned and sanded the teak swim platform last weekend and it came out great. Went with 400, 600, 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit wet sanding. I had some new upholstery made for the back seat bottom and the movable jump seat that was in the boat. Both were cracked/torn bad enough to need replacement. I'll do some vinyl repair on the sundeck, but it only has a few small spots (less than 1/2" long) that need repair. Hopefully the repairs will match pretty well. Planning to replace the carpet soon, but probably not getting that far this weekend. I am planning to work on fluids this weekend. A semi-local dealer told me to use Dexron III ATF in the transmission and 30 weight non-Detergent oil in the vDrive unit. Can anyone confirm? Is 10w40 Mobil 1 a good choice for the engine? I'm in NC and that's what I run in my cars during the summer. Is the Sherwood 9959K the correct water pump impeller for this boat? [url]http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=8374[/url] |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: April-02-2009 at 9:20pm
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LKG - Use Valvoline VR1 20W-50 or Shell Rotella 40W for the engine. Those are known to have the correct additive for your engine. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 12:21am
| Mobil 1 20w50 also has the ZDDP, but its the only Mobil 1 that does. I use it in my 93 Excel. All the other fluids should be correct, don't know about the impeller, I get mine from Discount Inboard Marine, but it is a Sherwood pump. |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 9:51am
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LKG,
I use shell rotella 40 wt, you can get it at Gaston Auto Supply(?) across the street from Hardie's @ Hwy 46 & Hwy 48. I'm trying to get up to the lake tonite. (But I may have plans I don't know about yet) ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 12:30pm
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^ Cool...I'll be there tonight. Probably running into Roanoke Rapids tomorrow, but stop by if my 4Runner is there.
When you guys say Rotella 40wt do you mean SAE 40? I'm pretty sure they sell Rotella at Sam's Club, so I'll try to stop by there on the way out of town. West Marine has the impeller pretty cheap. It was $22.99 there and $34.99 at Overtons. I think that's the right one for these 5.8 PCMs. |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 1:42pm
| They have Rotella 15W40 at Sam's. Is that suitable, or should I be looking for SAE40? |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: April-07-2009 at 1:35pm
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Sorry for the long post...I appreciate you guys taking the time to read and reply...
I got all the fluids changed over the weekend and put a new water pump impeller in it, but I'm hearing a "whine" from the vDrive unit that I didn't hear last year. It is hard to describe the sound, but it is loud and it sounds like a pair of bicycle brakes grabbing a wet rim. Here is as much relevant info as I can think of: - The old water pump impeller looked to be in good shape however there were two old impeller fins jammed in the exit side of the water pump. I'd estimate there was about an 80% blockage. I can't believe the boat never overheated last year. I have concerns about other pieces of impeller going to the vDrive unit. The water basically follows this path: lake->raw water pump->vDrive unit->engine thermostat housing. - After doing all the maintenance I backed the trailer in the water and cranked it on the trailer. After a couple of minutes the temps started to come up. The vDrive unit started whining at this time. I looked at the water strainer and it was still bone dry. I shut it down at 175 degrees (according to engine temp gauge) and pulled it back to the house. - I took the raw water pump off and took it apart. I couldn't find any problems with it. It could not be installed upside down or backwards (I tried). After an hour of messing with it I filled the sink, stuck the bottom of the pump in the water, and turned it by hand. It seemed to be pumping in the right direction, so I put it back in the boat. I cranked it on the trailer again and this time the water strainer immediately started filling up. - After getting it up to operating temps I took it for a cruise. The vDrive whine seems to happen when the boat is at idle and goes away when I start to give it some gas to get on plane. - When I start cruising the temp gauge drops down to the 100 degree mark. This can't be right, can it? Maybe I need a thermostat or the temp gauge is failing? What do I do if the vDrive fails? Does anyone rebuild them? I seem to remember these old vDrives being very expensive...Any estimates on the damage if it has to be replaced (I can do the labor myself.) |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-07-2009 at 2:02pm
Wanna bet? Sounds like thats exactly what happened! If you have the Sherwood pump on a PCM Ford, its VERY easy to install upside-down. They're meant to go either way, depending on the direction of engine rotation- I have both LH and RH PCM's and always make sure to pay attention when installing. Yours is a Lefty, so just be sure that the set screw on the body of the pump faces inwards (towards the engine). Sorry, Im no help on the V-drive unit. Hopefully Eric will chime in. ------------- |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: April-07-2009 at 3:31pm
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There are three screws that hold the pump together. If I try to install it "upside down" one of the screws that holds the pump together interferes with the bracket that the raw water pump bolts onto. There is a channel in the bracket that the screw fits in when it is right-side-up, but the channel doesn't extend all the way to the end of the bracket. That screw moves to the end of the bracket when it is upside down and it interferes. It literally wouldn't work on my boat. I tried.
I can say with a 100% guarantee that the water pump was installed the same way the second time I put it on. There is a screw on the outside of the housing that faces away from the engine. There is a patch of rust on the bottom of the part of the pump that holds the belt pulley. I made sure that both the screw and the rust were in the same spot that they were in when I took them off. Maybe the impeller was binding for some weird reason. The more I think about it the more I worry about chunks of impeller being in that long hose from the RWP to the vDrive or, even worse, being in the vDrive unit itself. |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: April-07-2009 at 3:57pm
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Tim, I'm with LKG........ on my old Excel, the base of the pump is mounted so that when you remove the front plate and pulley assembly, you can only put it back on in the right direction .... just make sure the fins of the impeller are started to spin in the correct direction when it goes back on or it might bind at start.
When I had temp "issues" with the Excel, it was usually associated with poorly seated strainer bowl / hoses breaking suction or "finicky" thermostat issues after a layup. Make sure things are tight and T-stat is what it should be. Our Excel whined more than our DD boats but it really got loud when our packing gland was going bad... check that out - look , and listen underway........ That is my bet!! Edit: BTW - the whine sounds like rimming a crystal goblet....not a machinery whine. ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-07-2009 at 3:59pm
Sounds like someone added longer screws to your pump at some point- they wouldnt have originally been long enough to stick through the case. You wouldnt have been the first to install that pump upside down and wonder why it wouldnt draw water! No idea why it would draw water one time and not another. You had all your hoses connected? Edit: Steve, sounds like the v-drive might be set up differently than the DD's? Interesting. ------------- |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: April-07-2009 at 4:16pm
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It's actually the head of the screw that slides into the channel on the bracket, so screw length isn't a factor. You put the pump together, put it against the bracket (with the head of one screw in the channel) and then put a bolt through the bracket that sinks into the water pump on the back side. It must be different on the Excels. Maybe the Excel pump is oriented "upside down" by comparison to the regular Nautiques?
I do plan on replacing the thermostat the next time I get up there. I'm not sure how to check the packing, but I'll try to figure that out before I go back to the lake. If anyone knows of a thread where that is covered please post a link.
That could be it. The previous owner gave me some kind of wax rope that is supposed to be packed into the pump seal. Is that what you're talking about? |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: April-07-2009 at 4:26pm
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Yes!! but the wax rope goes into the gland which connects the prop shaft to the hull thru-way. It is a bit of a bear to get to as it is under the V-drive (where the prop shaft disappears into the hull).
You use a combination of wrenches to loosen it up. There are some good threads on wax vs synthetic packing. There is also a good discussion on cutting the pieces on an angle- which I found intriguing........too late for my project though... You will be good to go!!!! ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-07-2009 at 4:34pm
Sounds like the v-drives might be set up differently. They can be installed either way on the direct drives, depending on whether you have a LH or RH engine. Installing it backwards is actually fairly common. ------------- |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: April-07-2009 at 8:00pm
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^^ Now that I think about it I don't think that could be causing my "whine". Mine was doing it while idling in neutral. There has to be something else because the prop shaft shouldn't be turning then.
Oh yeah, water was coming in where the rudder goes through the hull at a rate of about 1 drop per second. It was actually dripping from a couple of inches above the hull around the bushings. Is there a seal there that I can replace? |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: April-07-2009 at 11:08pm
The shaft could still be spinning at idle - not fast, but will spin still. It is a very distinct musical whine....
The rudder has a packing nut and floss (packing gland) as well..... that wax rope can be used there too..... useful stuff, huh? ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: May-11-2009 at 8:00pm
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Too many projects, not enough time...
I started replacing the carpet this past weekend even though I really didn't want to. I originally planned to push the carpet replacement to next year, but I got a huge roll of really nice marine carpet, a bucket of glue, and a trowel for free so I had to go ahead and take advantage of it. I got the hull stripped on Saturday and finished stripping all the removable panels on Sunday. All the old carpet came out really easily in whole pieces so I used the old carpet as a template and just left an extra inch on each side when I cut the replacement pieces. How do you guys normally go about gluing in the replacement pieces for the hull and gunwales? There is a rubber strip that joins the gunwale carpet to the floor carpet. It has a channel that the floor carpet pushes into. I'm thinking I should glue in the gunwales first, trim them with a razor blade, glue in the rubber strip, glue in the floor carpet trim it, and then start stuffing it into the rubber trim piece. Does that sound right to you guys? btw...The loud whine turned out to be the shifter linkage on the transmission vibrating. I can grab it and muffle the sound. I need to take a video. You guys aren't going to believe how loud this thing is. I guess it is resonating at just the right frequency to be a lot louder than you'd ever expect. You guys will get a kick out of this; the boat didn't have a thermostat. Just two (or three) thermostat gaskets stacked up and an empty hole. All I can figure out is that it may have been the previous owner's solution to the blockage from the water pump impeller that came apart? I mean, it was probably only getting 20% of the water flow from the water pump, but then the thermostat was a gaping hole that was always open so I guess it worked out for him. So strange that it ran perfectly fine last year and then I start finding these things when I start taking it apart. The boat was in the right temp operating range last year when I bought it, but it was running at ~100 degrees after I fixed the blockage. I thought I had a bad temp gauge until I saw that there was no thermostat! |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: May-11-2009 at 10:22pm
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There's a good write up on that trim that TRBenj posted. Try a search for carpet, I think it's in the 'common questions' section. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: May-11-2009 at 10:28pm
i had the exact same thing in the Mustang. I was out in water that was 35* or so the day the ice went off, and the gauge would not register. NO stat. Then, I inadvertantly installed the thing backwards.... All better now.... ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: June-17-2009 at 1:28pm
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Got the carpet done and it looks great. I need to get some pics up.
Now I'm concerned about the alternator. I've only run the boat a few times this year and I had to throw in my second battery last weekend to get it to crank. Normally I wouldn't think anything of it, but I noticed that the volt gauge was reading less than 12 volts while the boat was running. Is the best way to find out for sure just to pull the alternator and take it to Autozone/Advance Auto for testing? If I do need a new alternator, is this the right one: Ski DIM Alternator - http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RA097006 How would I know if my boat has the external regulator that they're referring to in that link? ps, I still haven't given her a good wash/wax job, but here is a pic I took of her last week while we were swimming: 
Olympus waterproof cameras are ftw! |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: June-17-2009 at 3:30pm
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Before taking out the alternator, if you have a tester you can test it in place and compare the reading to the gauge..maybe you have bad ground on the gauge and get low reading...just my .02
------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: June-17-2009 at 5:38pm
| What's the best place to test it? I have a multimeter. I'm guessing I can check voltage at the battery, crank the boat, and check voltage again. If the alternator is working it should go from ~12.0v to ~13.8v, right? |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: July-27-2009 at 4:49pm
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The alternator was bad. Just got it back from a rebuild by a local shop. I think he said the rotor was bad. He rebuilt it with new brushes, bearings, etc; sandblasted it, and painted it for $125. Seemed like a good deal. ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: critter
Date Posted: July-27-2009 at 5:21pm
I would use 5200. Better for marine use. You can find it at ACE Hardware stores or any Marine store. ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique 1966 Barracuda |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-27-2009 at 5:32pm
I HATE SILICONE!!!! (I need to add the statement to my signature line!!) It didn't stick and work once or even twice when it was the "shade tree" mechanic glopped on more so don't expect it to work a third time. Stick with the 5200 as mentioned. Do check the condition of the wood glassed into the transom. There's a reason the brackets loosened up and the wood may be the problem. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: July-27-2009 at 6:31pm
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Is there wood in the transom of a 1993? I'm pretty sure this boat is all glass. ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-27-2009 at 9:25pm
A solid glass transom wouldn't have allowed the washers to cup like you mentioned. I'll bet there is ply in that transom! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: July-27-2009 at 9:42pm
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My 93 has what looks to be some wood backing plates on the transom. There is also carpeted wood panels under the dash and the speakers are mounted to plywood covered with upholstery. That's all I've found, and I looked everywhere.
If you have a little rotten wood on the transom it should be very easy to fix, and I would think that you could even replace it with a suitable non wood plate. |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: July-27-2009 at 11:40pm
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With a fiberglass floor and stringers I'm pretty sure there is no wood in the transom. iirc the washers weren't cupped. I don't remember what was wrong...maybe flat washer bolted to angled surface or maybe the previous repair had damaged them, but I don't have the boat here to look at it. In any case, when I looked at it I thought it looked like something that should be replaced when I took them off.
I'll definitely pick up some 5200 and use that. Thanks for the suggestion. ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: August-04-2009 at 3:20pm
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Anyone know off the top of your head what size bolt holds the air cleaner on top of the carb? Dropped mine last week and it disappeared under the engine. I'm going to take a telescoping magnet to try to fish it out, but it wouldn't be a bad idea for me to pick up a spare before I get all the way to the lake. If nothing else it'll appear near the drain plug after I run the boat for a weekend. ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-04-2009 at 3:26pm
I believe the thread is 1/4-20. The length will depend on the height of your flame arrestor. ------------- |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: June-15-2010 at 12:03am
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Bringing back the old thread for a quick question...
Anyone know the specs on the allen bolt that holds the exhaust manifold on? Need to know the length, size, and thread pitch if anyone knows. Does it take any particular grade bolt? I was changing the plugs this past weekend and noticed that I'm missing one. Never noticed a exhaust leak, but I do want to get one in there. It's the black bolts at the bottom right of this pic: 
The boat has been great. Still running really good. Waterdog was helping me put a new power valve in the carb a couple of weeks ago and noticed that it only had three bolts holding it down; none of which had washers. Apparently someone did some monkeying around with this boat before I owned it, but it seems to be holding up pretty well. ::knock on wood:: ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-16-2010 at 12:04pm
what too lazy to take a bolt out and use that as a reference? BTW you don't have to have washers on the carb studs. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: December-27-2010 at 6:01pm
I was looking at pics of Nautique Excels and stumbled across this old post. I would recommend this as a replacement for that bolt: http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RA009145 - Aircleaner Thumbscrew . I'm planning to get one next time I order anything else to I'm not paying shipping just for that. They mention here http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1060 - Holley Aircleaner Stuff that you may have to cut a little off the threads unless you're using the plastic air cleaner cover thing like the one they show on this page. |
Posted By: yuanyelss
Date Posted: January-07-2011 at 7:14am
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I use it in my 93 Excel. All the other fluids should be correct, don't know about the impeller, I get mine from Discount Inboard Marine, but it is a Sherwood pump. ------------- http://www.cartier4us.com/Cartier-Pen-5.html - cartier pen refill , http://www.cartier4us.com/Cartier-Rings-7.html - cartier engagement rings |