’64 Atom on Craigslist
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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12445
Printed Date: December-23-2024 at 2:33am
Topic: ’64 Atom on Craigslist
Posted By: Terp
Subject: ’64 Atom on Craigslist
Date Posted: November-28-2008 at 6:01pm
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Anyone familiar w/ this individual boat?
http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/boa/934234875.html - http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/boa/934234875.html |
Replies:
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-28-2008 at 8:30pm
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It's worth $450 just for the parts! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: November-28-2008 at 10:15pm
| Stay tuned, just got off the phone w/ the seller. Pics pending. According to him It was a barn rescue. Needs new plywood but he thinks the skeleton is solid. Motor turns but he hasn't fired it. He's missing the bow light. Chrome needs refinishing. |
Posted By: 86BFN
Date Posted: November-28-2008 at 11:04pm
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John I'm 35 miles from Ft.Wayne, If I can help let me know. I know nothing about these old woodies, but I could pick up and store till spring.
It's gotta be worth more than that in parts, but sounds like a good project. Of course my wife say I don't need any more projects. 
Steve ------------- 👣 Steve http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4057&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1986" rel="nofollow - 86 Barefoot Nautique 89 Martinique Former Owner: 93 Hydrodyne 350 MAG |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: November-29-2008 at 12:56am
All right guys, let me know what you think.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-29-2008 at 10:16am
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This is the 16' Atom. Atoms were lengthened twice to handle larger engines. This 16 even was available with the small Y block V8.
It's going to need a down to the frame job. All brightwork ply (deck, cockpit side boards, hull sides and transom) needs to be replaced. If there isn't any rot in the bottom ply it may be saved. Solids like the dash can be saved by bleaching. You never know about the frames until you get the ply removed but I'd say work would be needed on the transom frame and stem. From the pictures, I do see the original wheel and step pads are missing. I don't feel it's the deluxe version because it has the standard plexi windshield. John, Does the engine turn over (not seized)? 
John, Go back in a edit your post. Use the "enter" key between your pictures. The pictures will then stack top to bottom on the page instead of side to side. Makes the thread easier to read. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: November-29-2008 at 12:05pm
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Pete, I was happy to see your response. I was particularly interested in yours, Paul's and Tim's thoughts. Thanks for the hint on the picture posting.
Tom (the owner) says the engine turns over, though he hasn't fired it. I wondered about those step pads, I didn't think they looked right. He said aside from the bow light, all parts were intact but he also admitted he wasn't really familiar w/ the CC line. So I'm figuring there are additional missing stock items. Some hardware also appears to be missing from the dash. Is is particularly difficult to find original hardware for this year and model? If I decide to get into this project I want to be as true to factory as possible. Is re-working the transom frame and stem any more difficult than re-skinning the boat? If the original framework is unsuitable for use as a template will I be able to locate the appropriate templates? Tom ( a GC by trade) said the engine mount bolts were real solid/secure and he felt that most of the frame was solid. What's involved w/ bleaching the solids? What wood was used for the frame on these? Tom, thinks it is oak. Is it difficult to find and/or swap out the I6 for the Y block V8 you mentioned? Guys, keep in mind this would be a first for me, both the engine and boat restoration. It would probably take me at least two years as I have a full-time job and a horse farm to keep on top of. But I am really excited about this boat and it's potential and the experience in doing this. If I can count on you guys for help and advice via the forum my concerns about finding myself in over my head are greatly reduced. |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-29-2008 at 12:12pm
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If your excited about it and have a place to keep it, buy it! You'll be amazed at what you can learn to do with a little motivation, patience and help from folks on CCF. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-29-2008 at 1:56pm
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John,
It really depends on what is missing on the dash as to whether it's hard to find. The picture is dark and I really can't see specifics. So many times people will drill extra holes. If needed, a new wood dash isn't a major issue. The gauge panel is a Stewart Warner and can be rebuilt. Frames are not Oak but rather Mahogany. They aren't hard to duplicate as usually there is only a small bad area. Easy to use as a pattern - No such things as templates. Re skinning the hull with new Mahogany ply isn't bad except for scarfing 8' sheets together to get the length needed. Bleaching is simply using a wood bleach to remove all staining/spotting. This brings the wood back to one whitish color and then it's re stained. I'd keep the 6 - It's a very suitable engine for the boat. Finding a 260 Ford Y block isn't going to be easy plus it's a very heavy engine and a small Cu.in./HP The power to weight ratio isn't there. I wouldn't be surprised if the 6 out performs the 8. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: November-29-2008 at 4:21pm
| Pete, what do you mean by "scarfing together"? Similar to dovetailing or mortising? Where do you find the solid mahogany and marine grade mahogany plywood? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-29-2008 at 5:00pm
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John,
Scarfing is a long bevel on both edges of wood so it can be glued (epoxy) together forming a longer length. With todays plywoods, this isn't easy. The face veneers have gotten so thin (less than a 64") that you have no sanding room meaning the scarf must be perfect. Also, if the epoxy gets on this face veneer, it will interfere with the wood taking a stain. This means the ply must be pre filler/stained and several coats of varnish put on before cutting the scarf and gluing. The other issue with scarfing is no one makes a decent jig for cutting!! The mahogany ply is still available but typically only through specialty type lumber distributors. Solids can be found at hardwood lumber supplies. BTW, are you sure it's a Atom and not the Compact? I'm asking because of the single piece plexi windshield and the 6cyl. engine. Edit: Regarding the Mahogany used for the frames. The main stringers would be Doug Fir. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: November-29-2008 at 10:20pm
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Ok, I have a buddy who owns a cabinet shop (many types of power saws!) Any particular blades you would recommend for the scarfing, or for any other special cuts for that matter.
No, I'm not sure it's an Atom. The seller thinks it is but again, he's not overly familiar w/ CCs. I'm not familiar enough with them yet to tell from the pics. He says he doesn't have a title, but I think I remember him saying he found the factory plate. Did the plates state the model name back then or just #s etc.? If they did just have numbers, is there a code that IDs the model? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-29-2008 at 11:00pm
Scarfing isn't matter of having the correct blades or saws but the method used. Since cabinet shops don't use the joint, he won't be equipped to cut the scarf. A properly made scarf will have a length to ply thickness ratio of 8 to 10. That means the bevel on both edges of 3/8" ply is 3" to 3&3/4" long. Normal cabinet shop equipment can't cut that shallow of a angle. I have been toying with the idea of using a router with a large mortising bit to cut the angle but that's the easy part. Fixturing the router on the proper angle plus allowing it to linearly traverse the edge while maintaining absolute rigidity is the problem!! Clamping the plywood is a must too. West system (the epoxy people) makes a attachment for a hand held power saw (skil saw) but it will not be accurate enough for the bright finished ply. (the scarf will be rough and it will show) The result will be the same using a hand held belt sander or power plane. Yes, the model can be ID'd with the factory serial number. It will start with two letters. "AS" will be for Atom Skier and "CS" will be Compact Skier ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Terp wrote:Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 12:47am
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So what do you do? Is there an alternative method? Are there alternative materials? Or do you just keep ruining expensive mahogany ply until you get it right?
Were there structural differences between the Atom and the CS or was it a matter of different engines and different trim? |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 12:59am
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There are places that will sell you 16' scarfed panels. but I would guess you would need one close to you and also have some way to transport it.
http://www.boulterplywood.com/ - marine plywood and scarfing Pete, Were all the old plywood boats scarfed? I've read about butt joints as an alternative, but were they not used, even on the cheaper CC boats? ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 1:19am
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Larry, thanks for the link. The scarfed ply they have is already glued so that will pose a problem with staining. They don't mention scarf cuts on their custom cut page so I'll have to wait until Monday and call to find out if they can make the cut and ship as such. I imagine it would be pretty fragile to ship it that way though.
BTW, found this helpful link: http://www.boat-links.com/scarf_bevels.html - http://www.boat-links.com/scarf_bevels.html |
Posted By: FINS
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 2:53am
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Nice find, Terp! Welcome to the woody Correct Craft Club! You can see your factory scarf joint pretty clearly right at the front seat stucture. The factory joints were pretty nice, but I would be wary of buying pre-scarfed plywood. Most of it is set up for a painted finish. Structurally, it is great, but the finish is not the best as Pete mentioned. I would start by researching the model and options. If it had a painted hull side originally, it makes the selection much easier since you can use fillers and fair the joint. I am just starting to strip down the hardware on my '60 Atom to turn it over to a professional restoration shop for a complete rebuild. Rob Dapron here in the Northwest is going to do all the woodwork and has been calling his suppliers to try and source some 16 foot plywood (custom cut without the joint). I will let you know if he has any luck.
You didn't mention if you went ahead and bought the boat. Let us know how it turns out! A few other things to consider if you have not bought it yet is the hardware. Like Pete said, finding some of the "bits and pieces" can be expensive. I do not see any of the name plates in your pictures. Other than that, it looks to be mostly intact. Things like the ski pylon, foot throttle, gauges, and engine box look identical to my '58 and '60. Good luck with the project! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2262&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1925&yrend=1960" rel="nofollow - 59 ATOM Lake Tapps, Wa. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 10:50am
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Larry,
Scarfed ply was very common with all the ply boat builders. All the ply CC's I've seen are scarfed. Higgins too and they also were a less expensive boat. I feel scarfing was a offshoot of building ply landing craft (and one model of PT's) from the war. It was done at the mill with some rather large pieces of equipment. Phenolic resins (same as bonding the plys together) were used which didn't soak into the wood as much like epoxies do. Also, the face veneer was sanded after scarfing. They must have really started with a very thick face. My face veneer on my X55 is close to a 1/8" so I'd have to say before sanding it was better than 3/16". The last provider of scarfed panels was Harbor sales I believe in Boston. It was the early 80's when I got the last of the scarfed out of them and at that time it was for painted applications only. They no longer had the thick face veneer/post sanding set up for bright work. Boulter has a jig but basically it is a non accurate hand operation. Butt blocking has a couple disadvantages. The biggest is you will get a very defined line at the joint very visible with a bright panel (Brian, Johns boat is bright whether it's a Atom or a Compact) A scarf produces a "feathered" edge very difficult to see. My X's scarfs you really need to look for them up close. The block itself also produces a flat spot on the face because it doesn't allow the ply to flex as much around the hull. Not too bad towards the aft where the panel is relatively flat but the aft is also the most visible spot where you don't want the joint showing! The butt joint is also on the weak side. Because the cross section of the ply edges is so small, very little bonding takes place so any stress from flexing of the panel must go through the butt block itself. If flexed enough, it will create so much stress on the joint at the ply edge that it is prone to fracturing at that point. The block will hold it but you'll end up with a crack. I've seen two failures. Both were on home built ply boats using epoxy. John, I don't feel there were any structural differences between the Atom and Compact. It was trim level only. The late 50's is when the Atom started to be built as a higher level "premium" boat. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 2:55pm
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Brian, thanks for the welcome and yes, I would appreciate hearing what your guy finds out about the plywood. No I haven't actually made the purchase and acquired the boat yet. I left a message for the seller this AM telling him I would buy it but haven't heard back yet.
I'll need to figure out what I'm going to do about picking it up. I hate to haul a flat bed several hundred miles just to find out the trailer is in fine shape. Steve (86BFN), if you happen to be in the Fort Wayne area over the next couple of days would you be willing to take a look at the trailer and let me know what you think? |
Posted By: FINS
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 4:40pm
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Hope the sale all works out for you! Looks like a great project. I did notice after I posted that it is a bright finish regardless of the model. I am leaning toward scarfing the plywood at Rob's shop. If he can replank a 20' Chris Craft Custom (3 of them now) and refinish a Riva, I would trust him with a scarf! If the original had the scarf joint, I don't see much value in trying to make it dissapear in a rebuild. Either way, I will keep you posted.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2262&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1925&yrend=1960" rel="nofollow - 59 ATOM Lake Tapps, Wa. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 4:50pm
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Brian,
I don't feel he's going to have any luck finding longer than 10' sheets of ply. 10's are around but beyond that the ply mills just aren't set up for it. It's just not the presses but also you need the long 16' logs and a 16' veneer lathes too. They never have been set up beyond 12' and the reason the scarf was created. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 5:05pm
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Well I have a verbal agreement w/ the seller. Just got off the phone. I'm targeting 11 Dec to go pick it up.
How would you guys haul it? He says the trailer frame is real solid channel w/ only surface rust. The tires are an old size I'm not familiar w/.... G7815...a 15" wheel/tire I presume, sound right? My thoughts were to put new tires on, pack the bearings, strap the boat down nice and snug, hang a safety triangle (no lights) and hit the road. Otherwise I'm hauling a flatbed out and back. What do you think? |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 5:23pm
Better to be safe than sorry on a long return trip. Ive found it easy enough to put the whole thing on a car hauler if Im not confident in the trailer's condition.
 ------------- |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 5:46pm
I've done the same thing. What I found out when arranging to go get our '62 Classic is that you don't know what is on the trailer. The PO agreed to put new tires and bearings on it only to find out that there were 2 different hubs on it and the original hub took really unusual bearings that would be hard to find especially if we had to go searching while broken down on the road.
 ------------- |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 5:56pm
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Thanks guys. Tim, I remember seeing the 'Tique photo on a much earlier post, I think from when you first picked it up.
And yet another question.... I see you and Bruce put them on tongue first. Winched on? How did you back them off safely? An yet another question pertaining to this boat but a different topic. Any experience with untitled boats/trailers. The seller has no title for either. Should I start another thread? Bruce what boat is that?! Looks straight out of a Bond or Batman flick! |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 6:01pm
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That's a 1961 Custom Craft Manta Ray that I found in a filed in Albany, ME. I sold it when the Mustang became available. ------------- |
Posted By: 86BFN
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 7:18pm
John, I could possible go tommorrow on my way home from work. Although I think that others have the better idea of loading the whole thing on a flat bed and hauling home. It looks to me like the trailer has car tires on it. i.e. white wall tires.(not good). If you could rent a flat bed (car transpoter) for one way that would save you from having to bring a trailer to Fort Wayne. I counted 10 U-haul locations in Ft. Wayne from a quick goggle search. When I bought my boat (out of state) I did not get a trailer title. I didn't have any trouble getting one with a bill of sale but the trailer did have legible number on it. Let me know what you find out. ------------- 👣 Steve http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4057&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1986" rel="nofollow - 86 Barefoot Nautique 89 Martinique Former Owner: 93 Hydrodyne 350 MAG |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 8:46pm
I really don't feel G78 15" are going to be a problem handling a boat and trailer weighing about 1500lbs. However, it's a good idea to put the boat/trailer on the car carrier. The alternate of course is new tires and bearings. Not something you want to do somewhere and then run into problems. These tires are 12" wide whitewall reproductions. The load rating is only 200 pounds above the weight of the boat and trailer. No problems - they run cool.  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 8:55pm
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If you think his trailer is clean you really ought to see the boat some day... ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: 86BFN
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 9:09pm
Pete, they look cool too! 
I'll make it reunion some time but I don't think it will be in 09.  ------------- 👣 Steve http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4057&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1986" rel="nofollow - 86 Barefoot Nautique 89 Martinique Former Owner: 93 Hydrodyne 350 MAG |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 10:02pm
| Steve, thanks for the offer to help. I think you and everyone else is right though, I 'll probably be better off flat-bedding it. Thanks again! |
Posted By: 86BFN
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 11:40pm
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John,
I think you would want to slowly winch it on the trailer with a cable winch, strap it to the hilt, and winch off when you get home. I do have a friend with a 12v winch and we could help you if need be. Just let me know if you need a hand  LOL
Steve ------------- 👣 Steve http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4057&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1986" rel="nofollow - 86 Barefoot Nautique 89 Martinique Former Owner: 93 Hydrodyne 350 MAG |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 11:57pm
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Alright Pete, got the hull # from the seller...AO444
engine # H81R04366 I was expecting a AS or CS number like you had mentioned before. Does this make sense to you? Steve thanks for the offer. I'll be in touch if I think I may need to take you up on it. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-01-2008 at 7:46am
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John,
Looks like it's a Atom to me with the "A" and then 4 digits for the serial number. Consistency was never one of CC's strong points! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-01-2008 at 12:03pm
Ive used a comealong to both load and unload the boats safely. It helps to have a few extra hands. Ratchet straps work great for securing the trailers together- it helps to have a lot! Laws vary by state regarding titles- so check with your local DMV. For instance, CT does not require a title to register a boat. The trailer usually requires a title, but if its either old enough or light enough, that requirement is waived. A previous registration as proof of ownership will usually work (especially since not all states require titles for trailers). Alternatively, its also possible to register a trailer as homemade if its lacking all the proper documentation. ------------- |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-01-2008 at 12:49pm
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You'll find like with cars each state is different.Here in Illinois the Department of Natural Resources handle boat titles.I did not get a title with mine just a bill of sale.They had me try to contact the last title holder and when that failed,they considered the boat abandoned.They then transfered the title to me and reissued the registration numbers. All and all very easy and cost just normal fee's ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: December-01-2008 at 2:35pm
| Thanks guys. Appreciate the info. |
Posted By: FINS
Date Posted: December-01-2008 at 7:11pm
I agree with the trailer. It is no fun to "pucker" all the way home. I drug my second Atom home over 1250 miles and only had to ckeck the straps during one of the MANY fuel stops! Congratulation on the boat!
 ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2262&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1925&yrend=1960" rel="nofollow - 59 ATOM Lake Tapps, Wa. |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: December-09-2008 at 4:28pm
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Hey guys, does this look like a steering wheel from a '64 Atom? I've seen a number of different ones on the different Atoms in the diaries and I didn't find any decent pics in the ref section.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1950s-BOAT-STEERING-WHEEL-w-KEYED-HUB-Rat-Rod-N-714_W0QQitemZ290280023143QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item290280023143&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A543%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 - EBay steering wheel |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-09-2008 at 7:44pm
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John,
They used wheels of all kinds!! Looks damn close to me. If it was on a early 60's Atom I don't feel anyone would know if it wasn't the exact original wheel. Brian, What do you think? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: December-09-2008 at 7:53pm
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Think I should grab it and worry about the center cap later? Are the center caps tough to find?
Edit: I let it go for now. Hate to spend $120 just to find out it won't fit. I sent a few questions about measurements to the seller. No one else bid on it so it'll probably pop back up. Is there anywhere else in particular to find original wheels for the older CCs? |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-10-2008 at 1:09am
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I'm not sure but that wheel seems like the one in that '64 American Skier I had. Sadly I have no pictures of that boat,only a very blurry video. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: December-10-2008 at 1:34am
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Yeah, Brian's was probably the best pic I could find and I was fairly convinced they were one and the same. But Brian's is a '60, and mine is a '64. Were you aware of a switch from one style to another during the interim?
Gary, blurry from beer or just cause you were going so damn fast! |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-10-2008 at 2:04am
Well it wasn't from going too fast,it had a 4cyl Graymarine.As the summer wore on the algae got thicker and pretty soon no more skiing until it was cleaned. It was a neat little boat just like your Atom will be.That 2nd year at Green Lake,Pete's Atom surprised me on how well it went in the rough water,I thought he would have a hard time keeping up,was I ever wrong. That video was taken in the mid '80's on one of those 1st JVC video cameras and then transfered to dvd so time has not been kind.The only still pic is below under 68 mustang ss, it's in the background,but anyway that wheel looks how I remember it. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: December-10-2008 at 2:08am
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Hows the outside work goin' this week Gary?
john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-10-2008 at 7:26am
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John,
It was typical to use surplus automotive wheels. Whatever was available, inexpensive, looked cool and in a fairly decent quantity. It wouldn't surprise me that all the early 60's Atoms were the same. All wheels since the early 20's have a 3/4" taper bore. The center cap may be a problem finding. If you find another wheel without the cap, you may consider making one. Turning a piece of aluminum with a convex face and then buffing it up is a option. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: FINS
Date Posted: December-11-2008 at 3:15pm
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That is the same wheel that is on my '60. on the top and bottom of mine is a clear epoxy looking material with glitter in it. You can see the metal hoop of the wheel in the center. I will get some better pictures of my dash and wheel when it gets a little lighter outside. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2262&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1925&yrend=1960" rel="nofollow - 59 ATOM Lake Tapps, Wa. |
Posted By: FINS
Date Posted: December-11-2008 at 3:26pm
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Here are some shots of the dash in both my boats. I think the crusty one on my '59 is the same wheel just covered in 25 years of dirt and dust.
Does anyone know if the gear selector changed around this time? My '59 has the "johnson" bar type floor mount shifter while the '60 has a column mounted selector. Someone added the Morse hand trottle on the '60, but the mount for the foot pedal is still there. Fun to see the differences in the boats and wonder if it was a factory item, or someones fix at some point. 
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2262&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1925&yrend=1960" rel="nofollow - 59 ATOM Lake Tapps, Wa. |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: December-11-2008 at 10:03pm
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Thanks Brian, I thought it looked like yours, just couldn't be sure. I sent the seller a couple of questions right before it expired so hopefully they'll get the hint and re-post it.
What is the T-handle to the left of your steering wheel? It looks a lot like the pull starter on our '56 Cessna. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-12-2008 at 7:29am
Choke ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: December-16-2008 at 3:29pm
The '64 Atom officially has a new home. Got home early this AM. No problems hauling. Sorry for the crappy photo. We were just trying to stay ahead of the foul weather and the camera battery was giving me grief (had a new one on order but of course it hadn't arrived in time for the trip.) So she's home now. Just parked her in the barn, haven't even taken her off the flatbed yet, to damn tired. I'll start getting some detailed photos in a day or two. We're missing a fair bit of hardware. What is there appears in good shape though. The skin is completely shot, deck to hull. Trailer is in real solid shape. Just needs some minor work and a few alterations I think. More later guys, the wife beckons.... for chores unfortunately!
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Posted By: 86BFN
Date Posted: December-16-2008 at 3:35pm
Glad you made it home with no problems!  Looks like a great project!  nice fifth wheel too!  ------------- 👣 Steve http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4057&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1986" rel="nofollow - 86 Barefoot Nautique 89 Martinique Former Owner: 93 Hydrodyne 350 MAG |
Posted By: FINS
Date Posted: December-17-2008 at 12:54pm
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Congratulation! Once you settle it in, lets hear a list of items needed so we can keep our eyes open. Your pictures bring back memories of picking up my Atom. My Dad and I drove from Seattle to Southern California and back in two days. We still laugh about the crazy things we do for boats. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2262&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1925&yrend=1960" rel="nofollow - 59 ATOM Lake Tapps, Wa. |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: December-21-2008 at 4:04am
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Rather than put every image up on the forum I just created an album with the link below. If you guys don't mind making comments about what you do or don't see I sure would appreciate it.
I'm definitely missing the stock steering wheel, bow light and step plates. Something is missing from the observer's side dash and there is no badging anywhere. http://s386.photobucket.com/albums/oo308/terp/ - Photobucket Album '64 Atom |
Posted By: p/allen
Date Posted: December-21-2008 at 4:27am
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Terp Looks like you have yourself a nice project . It all looks like my 59 atom except the engine . ------------- Pat http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w146/72ccfan/100_5977-1.jpg - My 72 Skier Rock River Dixon,ILL. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-21-2008 at 10:56am
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John,
Well, you have you work ahead of you!! The U tube picture marked "what is this" inside the hull and the picture on the outside marked "bilge drain" is the suction/siphon bailer. Water flowing over the bottom hull port (a venturi) creates a negative pressure and starts the suction. It's very common in old boats before the electric bilge pump BUT, known to get plugged and reverse siphon sinking the boats when moored!! There's a small vent hole on top of the U that must be kept open/clean. If you ever plan on leaving the boat sitting in the water not on a lift or hanging, I suggest disabling it. Plug up the through hull port by jamming a rubber stopper in it or at the base of the U tube where it attaches to the port. The other picture marked "what is this" is the hull port strainer for the engine cooling water. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: December-22-2008 at 1:19pm
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Anything else obviously missing, besides those parts I already mentioned?
I'm looking at this as a 3 part restoration..... trailer, boat, motor. My thought was to pull the motor and get it on the stand. (Any special issues or recommendations for this process. remember this is my first.) Then lift the boat and get the trailer out. Modify and "restore" the trailer so that I then have a reliable and legal trailer with which I can move the boat as needed. (I may have to take it to a shop about 250 miles away for help re-skinning it.) Then restore the boat. Then tear down and rebuild the engine. Recommendations, thoughts, etc. are appreciated as usual! |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: December-22-2008 at 11:01pm
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Terp - You might want to tear the engine down earlier (take lots of photos so you can remember how it goes back together) as you may have to hunt down replacement parts, could take awhile. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: January-21-2009 at 12:30pm
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OK Pete, maybe you can help here...
I called CC in Orlando and they cannot find any record of the Atom in their books. Which isn't such a bad thing as I am going to claim and register the boat as abandoned. But I did want to try to nail down the model year and I was also hoping they could get me some info on the motor (CID, etc. etc) before I begin to overhaul it. I presume it isn't an Interceptor as the valve cover is not stamped as such. So far I haven't found any numbers on the tranny either, though I haven't pulled it yet. Can you decipher anything from the plate pictured below? If the numbers are hard to read, they are.... Hull # A444 Engine # H81R 04366 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-21-2009 at 12:55pm
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John,
I "A" on the serial # identifies the boat as a Atom. Don't worry about CC not having any records but you already know that. I do believe you do have a Interceptor. It's ether the 85hp - 144ci or the 100hp - 170ci. My Interceptor manual doesn't list the 6 cyl. codes for the engine model# but maybe someone elses may. Bruce does yours? You have a Paragon trans on it. They are very reliable and rarely need work except for a clutch disk adjustment. BTW, drian the engine oil if you pull the trans otherwise yo'll have a mess! The trans is lubed with engine oil and when you pull the trans, you'll find it open to the engine oil pan! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: January-21-2009 at 12:59pm
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Somewhere on this web site is a chart that will explain what the engine block codes are. I found them for mine.
http://www.fordsix.com/shop.php - http://www.fordsix.com/shop.php Years Size Block 60-64 144ci ???? ???? ???? 60-64 170ci C0DE-C4DE ???? ???? ------------- |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: January-21-2009 at 2:37pm
| Thanks Bruce, good link. Going by his list it looks like it's probably a 144. Particularly if the boat is in fact a '65 or older. My block casting number (CIDE -6015-A) isn't on his list but if they did them sequentially in an orderly fashion it looks like it would have fallen in the 1960-64 range, making it a 144. If you go by his list they didn't make the 170ci until '70-'74. Is that a typo? Thanks again. |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: January-21-2009 at 3:47pm
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The made the 170 all during the same time as the 144. I don't know what the 6015-A means, but I think the C1DE means you have a 1961 170.
My engine is a 1964 and the boat is a 1966. I guess your boat is a 62-64? ------------- |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: January-22-2009 at 10:59am
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Terp, was it you that was looking for a steering wheel?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OLD-BOAT-STEERING-WHEEL-CENTURY-THOMPSon-LYMAN-OUTBOARD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQitemZ280099045505QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OLD-BOAT-STEERING-WHEEL-CENTURY-THOMPSON-LYMAN-OUTBOARD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQitemZ280099045505QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear ------------- |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: January-22-2009 at 11:42am
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Bruce, thanks for the head's up. I think, after looking quite a bit at other Atoms, that the wheel I'm most interested in having and is most likely to have been stock on mine is this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/1950s-BOAT-STEERING-WHEEL-w-KEYED-HUB-Rat-Rod-N-714_W0QQitemZ290289858206QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item290289858206&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1171%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50#ebayphotohosting - Wheel Now, the one I think would like pretty cool is this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Polished-15-Boat-Steering-Wheel-Solid-Cast-Stainless_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1171Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem400020373215QQitemZ400020373215QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear - Non-stock wheel but I'm not prepared for the barage of abuse I would receive if I did that to my boat! Just kidding. I think I've also found the proper bow light.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=110338123233#ebayphotohosting - Bow Light but I missed the auction. So if you see a light like this one, please let me know. I appreciate you keeping me in mind when it comes to parts. I think the items I am going to have the greatest trouble finding are the badging and the step plates w/ proper inserts. Did someone else here find a place that could duplicate the "Correct Craft" rubber step plate inserts and/or the chrome "Correct Craft" badging? Pete, sorry but I missed your response prior to Bruce's. Yeah, I'm a bit disappointed about them having no record of the boat. I asked them to double check and see if they even had any numbers close to mine. I heard back from them yesterday evening confirming they had nothing on record. In some ways this is helpful. Having "no record of said hull #" in writing from Correct Craft may support my claim to abandoned title. I did want to confirm the model year but oh well. I'll register it as a '64 since it's my wife's birth year. Thanks for the heads up on the transmission fluid! |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: January-22-2009 at 11:48am
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SOB on that bow light. What a deal. I believe it is the correct one for your boat. It is what is on our Mustang and Classic and what was on the Atom we were hoping to buy a few months ago. The last one I saw like that on ebay went for $85+-. ------------- |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: January-22-2009 at 11:56am
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Yeah, somehow I managed to misread the auction end date. I was pretty PO'ed this AM.
The layout of the old screw holes on my bow match the layout on that light so I'm 99.9% sure it's the right one. |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: January-22-2009 at 12:06pm
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Bruce since you mentioned this guy's website, any thoughts on the book he's selling? http://falconperformance.sundog.net/ - Ford Six Book
Any thoughts from anyone regarding good texts to read prior to rebuilding and modifying the Ford Six? Though I plan to keep the boat itself as original as possible I would like to modify and upgrade the motor as much as possible, while maintainng roughly the same profile so as to keep the doghouse original. So no turbos or superchargers! |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: January-22-2009 at 12:26pm
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I've spent a fair amount of time on that web site and while it looks pretty cool to hop one of those engines up, if you start checking out what the stuff costs you'll find it's pretty rediculous. It's a lot more than building a Ford or Chevey V8.
If I needed a rebuild, I would check to see if I could get a remanufactured 200CI six short block. I think all of the parts from your engine would fit. I think it would need 3/4" or an inch more clearence. Check his prices, I think he gets $3,500 for an aluminum head. There's a pretty limited market for that hipo six banger stuff. The book's probably worth getting. I'm sure there's good info in it and it is interesting. ------------- |