76 Ski Tique Floor/Stringer Replacement
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12546
Printed Date: June-28-2024 at 6:09am
Topic: 76 Ski Tique Floor/Stringer Replacement
Posted By: JDiggs
Subject: 76 Ski Tique Floor/Stringer Replacement
Date Posted: December-18-2008 at 4:13pm
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I have to replace the stringers and therefore the floor also in a 1976 Ski Tique I recently purchased. As a disclaimer, I am lazy by nature, I have a very limited budget for this project and I have no boat repair experience. Therefore, I am not trying to achieve and don't expect my results to compare to some of you guys awesome and thorough work. I don't want to do this again though and would like to do any maintenance and repairs that would be much easier while the boat is torn apart.
Here's a few pics of the floor, one main stringer is 90% rotted out, the other is ok. The secondary stringers are 50% rotted in the rear. I've got a couple of questions, but I'll post those shortly. Any suggestions/comments/help are welcome. I really appreciate all the great info on this site, I wouldn't be able to do it without it. Thanks in advance 
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Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-18-2008 at 4:38pm
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Jeremy, Im glad youve decided to tackle the project. From what I can tell, it needs full stringer replacement pretty badly! Great move on taking out the motor and other hardware- that will make it much easier tow work on.
There have been several good structural threads on here over the last few years, so hopefully youve done (or will be doing) your research. No experience necessary- we were all beginners at one point! Just FYI, being budget minded shouldnt adversely affect the repair- a shoddy job will cost just much as a good one (actually, a shoddy job will likely cost you more in the long run). Take your time and do it right the first time if you want it to last. Many here can point you in the right direction on good deals (like US Composites). Also, you can probably save some money if you decide not to refoam. ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: December-18-2008 at 5:41pm
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one bit of advice on this one, there is nothing like factory glass, IF it were me i would keep the existing glass on the stringers, cut the rest of the top and remove all the wood and let dry thouroughly. slide your new wood (douglass fur) and use close to the existing curves and sawzall to shape, acid etch or acetone and scuff with 36 grit, fill with epoxy resin and set your wood and hold in place with temporary screws. then come back in and re-glass with 24 ounce woven. I use a planer to skim the top of the stringers until the wood is exposed. also if needed bye some cheap c-clamps and clamp the sides so the epoxy adheres.
Alot of times you do have to remove down to bare skin but in your case i think it would be beneficial to skim the tops and pull the wood ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-18-2008 at 5:47pm
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Sounds like more work than its worth, Eric. I just dont see how you'll get a good bond the second time around. Digging out the wood would be no fun at all either. Ive had good luck cutting the stringers off low, but not flush- leaving just enough to hold the new stringer in place while I glass it down. ------------- |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: December-18-2008 at 5:56pm
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My first thought was about getting it supported VERY well before anything structural is removed(or what's left of it). The '1 stringer at a time' meathod may be in the books already.
Good luck and ask away. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-18-2008 at 6:10pm
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Greg, supporting the hull is a good practice- but there is a world of difference in the thickness and rigidity of the hulls when comparing a newer, larger boat (like my '90 SN or your BFN) and a smaller, older boat (like a Tique). It was probably a combination of the smaller size and thicker hull, but that Tique was solid. ------------- |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: December-18-2008 at 6:21pm
LMAO...why you be on my case today?!!? I just didn't want him to write back about a pancaked hull! 
I'll also admit that I sometimes overthink things, but then I think about how things can move...not good for glue-ups. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: December-18-2008 at 6:23pm
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Lazy by nature, his funds are low.
you mix up a half gallon and the only way its going is up. or resin the bottem set the wood then come back and pull the glass from the sides and pour and brush I was basing my thoughts on his comments, not much experience either and if he cuts it all out he may have problems. I think the wood is so rotted in his boat that he isnt having any problems removing it from the glass. of couse i would set the boards first and cut them and then resin all sides and then grind so the new resin bites in. if done correctly in this manner it is a reliable and safe repair.....restore ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: JDiggs
Date Posted: December-18-2008 at 7:08pm
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Thanks guys. I've spent WAY too much time reading the website lately. Im gonna hit you with a bunch of questions right off the bat
The other stringer seems ok, I haven't dug in real deep, but if it is good would it be better to go ahead and remove and replace it? Or would it be ok long term and easier on the wallet if I injected it with CPES and left it? If I do remove it, should I carefully remove the good one FIRST so I can use it as a pattern? My concern would be A) support of the hull, the other stringer is already garbage. B) The good stringer is a reference point Eric, I am kinda want to go that direction with my main stringers, if nothing else to have the original reference points, but I've tried digging out the stringer and it seems to be a real pain in the ass. I think Im at least going to have to remove one side to get it out. I want to leave the other side on as long as possible as a reference point. Here's my plan as of now. It's constanly evolving the deeper I go but as an engineer by nature I must have a plan at all times. Ive removed all foam around the outside secondary stringer (long one) I was going to build this one first as it seems to be the easiest and less important? Basically use this one for a bit of trial and error. Before I epoxy it in Im going to build the secondary system like skibum did. (Props to his website btw) Good idea? I was going to cut the fiberglass off on each side about 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the hull. Can I get the stringer out all the way with 1/2 inch of fiberglass up the sides? If I could get the stringer out and clean up the channel, I was going to fill the channel with epoxy mixed with West 404 filler, so I would have a 1/2 inch or so epoxy bed so keep from having to get the stringer so precise. How much more of the bow foam do I need to remove to replace the main stringers in the front? The less foam I remove the less I have to replace $$. My foam was only wet on the bottom 1/4 inch, I was a little surprised consdering how bad the stringer was. Im planning on replacing the foam, but I want to put 1/2" plywood floor in on top of the foam. That way the foam doesn't have to be perfect or structural. How about mixing cut up noodles and pourable foam in the cavities? Alright guys, sorry for the book. Im in the process of making an autocad layout of the inside of the boat, I would like to have elevations of all the wood pieces that make up the bottom of the boat for my use and hopefully it will help someone in the future. Thanks for all your help. It's greatly appreciated |
Posted By: JDiggs
Date Posted: December-18-2008 at 7:19pm
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I'll add a little to it. It's not a factory trailer. The bumpers, rails, whatever they are called support the back corners and run until the rails are basically below the stringers in the front.
It feels pretty solid. The stringer fiberglass skeleton gives it a lot of strength, even if just one side is left on it. I hope to leave one side on each stringer, I feel like that should give it enough strength combined with the strong, small hull of the Tique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-18-2008 at 7:56pm
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JD,
I'm completely with Tim on this one. You need a complete stringer replacement. If one stringer is "90%" rot, I guarantee the other one has started too. Don't try to save any wood. The risks are too great and since you have said you are lazy, you want to do the job once. I also agree with stripping the hull down to nothing. The time spent goofing around trying to save the factory glass isn't worth it. Eric, Don't you have a trans to go work on?? What makes you think the factory glass is better? Remember, the original will be polyester and not epoxy! Roughly half of you material cost will be the foam. I'd leave it out. My Tique doesn't have any! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-18-2008 at 8:13pm
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JD,
Here's a picture from the PO of my Tique who did the re stringer:  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-18-2008 at 8:15pm
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Apparently Pete and I are on the same page. I wouldnt refoam- especially if you want to put in a plywood floor. The next boat I do (another little 16 footer) will get the pool noodles. You can save some money by going this route. Dont skimp on the epoxy resin or fiberglass supplies!
I do think that keeping the bottom 1/2" of glass from the original stringers is a good idea. The original stringers were bed down with foam and glass, approx 1/4" thick. I left just enough of the originals to hold the new ones in place while I glassed them in. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-18-2008 at 8:37pm
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Yes on the 1/2" of original glass on the stringers. Good for location reference. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: JDiggs
Date Posted: December-18-2008 at 8:37pm
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If I have to do one, I might as well do the other one, I don't think I would feel good about it anyway.
Can I get a consensus from you guys that since budget is a high priority (Like saving $500 dollars is the difference in having it in the water May 1st and July 1st priority) that not replacing the foam is the best way to save money and still do it right? I've seen lots of arguments on to foam or not to foam, but in the context of my question is it the best place to save money? Again, if I put the plywood in, therefore eliminating the structural floor requirements of the foam, could I mix in a filler such as chopped up noodles? I have found the original diary for your boat Pete, that seems to be the best picture of a Tique structure I've found, do you guys have any more, I'd love to take a look at them. Tim, do you have any other pics than what's on your thread? |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: December-18-2008 at 8:39pm
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I'll put my money on how this boat is going to be done, sometimes you have to read between the lines, and dont get a guy wrapped up in something he may not be comfortable with, JMO.
it sounds as if he wants to go boating and not get wrapped up in a 2 month ordeal. some guys are not capable of jumping into a boat and doing some of the repairs to that extent, Correct, you guy's are. if he is capable, God bless em, then do it that way, if not do a repair to make the boat safe ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: December-19-2008 at 9:11am
To foam or not to foam...how deep is the lake you'll be running in?!!?
 ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: skicat
Date Posted: December-19-2008 at 10:59am
Don't know- Can't even get my boat in the dry pond right now! 
No foam in my skier. Don't want to know what is under the BFN! ------------- Greg http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2427&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985" rel="nofollow - 86 BFN |
BuffaloBFN wrote:Posted By: JDiggs
Date Posted: December-19-2008 at 1:29pm
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If you put pool noodles inside the floor cavities and epoxy the wood down, wouldn't it still work?
What about putting foam in some of the cavities, say, the one outside of the secondary stringer on each side? Does anybody know the rough weight of the boat? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-19-2008 at 1:46pm
The weight listed in our ref. section is 1600lbs. Polyurethane 2lb foam will displace 60lbs. per cu. ft. I don't remember the weight of pool noodles off hand but there is a thread on it where Michelle (sanity) and I did the calculations from her weighing a pool noodle! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-19-2008 at 1:51pm
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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12272&KW=noodles&PN=0&TPN=2 - thread with noodle calculations ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: JDiggs
Date Posted: December-19-2008 at 2:47pm
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Thanks. Well, that leaves me to question the effectiveness of the noodles for emergencies. That would be alot of pool noodles. However, there is alot of foam in the bow correct? Did find a closer source for my fir lumber out of that thread. I live east of birmingham, the closest I found was Pensacola before the place in GA out of the thread :)
I guess I need to freshen up on my physics for specific gravity and all that other brain splitting stuff, but in redneck terms: One of those big noodles will keep my fat ass afloat enough so I can still drink a beer and I weigh 200 lbs. So if I could get 6 of those in there, I'd have to get close. If you cut them up and pack them down in the cavities, you woud get the added benefits of floatation and sound deadening right? No structural help, but with the plywood it wouldn't matter |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: December-19-2008 at 2:47pm
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why do we use foam again? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: JDiggs
Date Posted: December-19-2008 at 6:18pm
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Why
Safety/floatation Sound insulation Structural support of the hull Structural support of floor Why not Cost Time & Labor Chance of future waterlogging/rot issues Here's my structural analysis of the problem, Im no expert at boat dynamics and structure, so please enlighten me if Im off track: The hull only has to span between the stringers to prevent oil canning, this is 6" or so where the foam is located, however it already spans 20" between the main stringers on the inside, correct? I don't see why the hull would be thinner toward the outside. I doubt the foam would add much strength to the overall hull. It may help with localized impact, but the 2lb foam does not have high bending stress resistance and I presume the bond to the stringer would not prevent the shear stress from seperating the foam from the stringer under high load conditions. When the hull is stressed in the water, the bottom side of the stringer is in compression, bracing this side of the stringer is important to reduce the unbraced length which contributes euler buckling in beams. The foam does provide continuous lateral bracing support for the stringer, however, The bottom side is already continually braced by the hull thru the epoxy bond, therefore the unbraced length is 0 and no strength reduction. Also, the shear strength of the epoxy bond to the hull and stringer should be high enough to resist the shear loads under bending, therefore a section of the hull on each side of the stringer should act compositely with the stringer as a upside down T section to resist the bending stresses along the length of the hull. As a basic analogy, if you filled a steel tube with foam, the foam does not contribute to the bending strength of the tube. For these reasons I feel the foam is redundant in regards to strengthening the hull. Is it safe to assume that a chopped up noodle fill in sealed cavities would provide safety flotation value and sound deadening properties while being much easier on the budget and reduces labor? |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: December-19-2008 at 7:44pm
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if its for structure, then why do big yachts that need structural support not have it?
your on the right track though, what happens to the psi of water on the hull with the boat in the water? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: December-19-2008 at 7:48pm
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BTW, in case of an emergency, shouldnt you have life vests on the boat? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: December-19-2008 at 10:46pm
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JDiggs - Great analysis. Wouldn't it be great if someone could model a CC in CAD & run a FEA (Computerized stress/strain simulation)? Then we would know exactly where the weak spots are!
Any college students out there looking for a project? ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: JDiggs
Date Posted: December-21-2008 at 2:20am
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Finite Element Analysis. Now that's what Im talking about. I work with mostly 2D models and linear 3D models for analysis. Programs such as solidworks and some other mechanical modeling programs could probably do it. I'll see if I can import my cad model and put some depth to it and see what I come up with.
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Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: December-21-2008 at 11:49am
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JD - That would be a really cool addition to this site's library. My company has the software but it would be totally against policy to use it for something personal. Not that I know how to do a FEA in the 1st place. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: JDiggs
Date Posted: January-07-2009 at 3:34pm
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Hadn't been able to work much lately between holidays, rain, and sickness. BTW, I envy you guys with the nice big and warm shops/garages. Doing the work in your driveway under an oak tree has it's drawbacks.
I have gotten the foam & secondary stringers removed from one side. Im working on cutting out the "good" stringer on the other side now to use as a template. Half of the secondary came out in one piece. I will use the existing floor at the hull and the top of the main stringer to get the other measurements I need 
Looking at the secondary stringer channel. I plan to clean and sand the area and grind the channels down a little better. Planning on removing the outside vertical glass of the main stringer to remove the remnants of the main stringer shown in the pic. Ok to leave one side of the original glass? Thanks |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-07-2009 at 4:58pm
There's no easy way to bond the old glass to the new wood. Thickened epoxy and lots of clamps is about the only way. I feel it would be more trouble that what it's worth to save it. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: JDiggs
Date Posted: January-07-2009 at 6:26pm
| After thinking about it, once I get the new stringer cut to fit, there is no reason to keep it. Im just going to keep it for reference until Im ready to bond the new stringer in. |
Posted By: critter
Date Posted: January-07-2009 at 7:23pm
That is exactly what I did with mine. Allowed me to verify location and fit. Then I cut it out and completed the install. ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique 1966 Barracuda |
Posted By: JDiggs
Date Posted: January-08-2009 at 4:07am
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Tool of choice:
4 1/2" Grinder w/ diamond blade to cut fiberglass. Worth the 60 dollars 6" hand drywall saw to cut foam 18" wide crow bar to remove foam Haven't run into a real PIA situation with these, yet.. 
Couple of questions here. Can the stringers be removed and replaced without removing any of the foam where it turns vertical? How far do the stringers extend into the vertical section? thanks |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-08-2009 at 7:46am
Keep going past the toe board. They don't go very far past it but the key is to get all the old wood out. You don't want to take a chance of leaving any rot in the hull or leave a spot for water to get in buy scabbing in old to new. You need to keep in mind that the stringers are a complete continuous system. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: JDiggs
Date Posted: January-09-2009 at 1:47pm
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Thanks Pete.
Gonna remove as little as possible to get the stringers out. How do you replace it; by pouring expandable foam and shaping it? As far as the intake vents go, I've started removing the foam between the stringers in front of the battery box, the intake hoses are not coming out in one piece, they are tearing, etc. I don't want remove all that foam in the toe board section to get them all the way out. Is there a good way to replace these hoses from the toe plate to the bulkhead (right word?)at the bilge? I have seen some people use PVC pipes in this area. Would sticking the ends of the hoses into a single PVC pipe be sufficient? Much easier to make a new bulkhead with 2 holes rather than 4. Thanks for all the help |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-09-2009 at 2:11pm
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Jeremy, the stringers only go 3-4" past the kick plate. Dig the entire thing out. I highly suggest replacing the entire vent hoses with something more durable that wont leak- like PVC. If you dont want to replace all the foam, just take out whats necessary to get them out. I found it easier to replace the entire thing, though. I shaped the kickplate with the pourable foam- it took several small pours and some grinding afterwards for it to look right. ------------- |
Posted By: JDiggs
Date Posted: January-12-2009 at 3:55pm
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Got the other main stringer out this weekend. I was able to get it out by removing the top and one side of the stringer fiberglass. I pryed the stringer up out of the bed. It came out in three pieces, but 3 full pieces. Although I wanted it to come out in one whole piece for a perfect template, Im satisfied with what I have. I can also take exact measurements from the bottom of the stringer bed to the top of the existing fiberglass as well.
The stringer wood in the toe plate is a seperate piece. I will remove the bad wood in this section, but not sure what I will put back in there; if it's not connected, I don't see the structural significance of a block of wood in the toe plate. I removed the foam under the floor from the bulkhead to the toe plate. I may try to use this area for storage. Anybody got any thoughts on it? I'll include some pics soon. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-12-2009 at 4:17pm
I agree. I suspect that the wood in the kick plate was more for aiding the production process of adding the foam rather than being structural. I didnt add mine back in. There is a bit of space in that front compartment- but depending on how you route your vent hoses/pipes and place the battery, theres not that much room left for storage. If you figure out something good, let me know- Ive got another 16 footer to re-do this spring!  ------------- |
Posted By: JDiggs
Date Posted: January-13-2009 at 1:27am
Thanks Tim
Hard to see in the pic, but I don't think our front ends are laid out the same. My battery box is in the bilge in behind the bulkhead (barely see the what's left just behind battery box, note the conduit on the right is pulled back so I could remove the foam in that area). Did you move your bulkhead back? 
Plywood floor outline with battery box location shown. Bulkheaad located where plywood pieces touch. The X area denotes planned storage, I estimate it's at least 16" wide between PVC pipes, 24" front to back, and 18" deep along the keel. That's my plan for now. 
The main stringer on the left has been removed. I still have the fiberglass along the entire length, even left the engine mount pieces attached. My next step is to build the stringer system before removing anything else. I will build test pieces (cause Im not confident in my woodworking ability), get them to fit correctly and then proceed tearing out the rest before putting it back in. 
My current autocad drawing(haven't updated it recently) Im going to get this thing perfect along with elevations for all stringer pieces and plywood floor pieces also for reference here. If any of you can help, feel free to chime in. Thanks again guys |
Posted By: critter
Date Posted: January-13-2009 at 1:35am
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Wow.. in the drawing, it looks like someone cut the front of your boat off... It will plow like that..
Good detailed drawing. I should have done something like this instead of using the palm of my hand for my drawing. Make sure you have that hull braced from below even with removing 1 stringer at a time. ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique 1966 Barracuda |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: January-13-2009 at 11:44am
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you need to rethink your layout. Where you plan your stoarage is the battery box's location as shown in Tim's, if you relocate to the postion you have shown the seats will be right on top of it and you will have no where to bolt them down to the floor unless you plan on screwing in to the battery that is.
And I won't say anything about the drawing. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-13-2009 at 12:07pm
Actually Chris, I think his planned location for the battery box is a little closer to where the factory put it than I did. I went with a wider observer seat rather than a bucket, so my seat mounts are wider- I pushed the battery box all the way forward to the foot panel to accomodate this. Unless Im mistaken, I believe the stock battery location on the Tique is directly between the 2 buckets. Im not 100% on this because my floor was removed when I bought the boat. With all the conduit running in that area, Im not sure that a 16"x24" storage area will be possible- but it might be. I would guess it would be closer to 12"x18" though. That would still be a meaningful amount, though- just a small compartment for a fire extinguisher, first aid kit and a few other small things would be much appreciated on these 16 footers. Let me know how yours works out. Any information you can collect and share about the height and shape of the stringers and floor would be better than what we've got now. I say post away! ------------- |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: January-13-2009 at 12:47pm
That is correct Tim, factory box was right between the seats. A little extra storage up front would be great, especially if the seats are left in the stock configuration, both facing forward, allowing access. My floor space in front of the seats is pretty much worthless because of the the rear facing/wider observer seat. Hard to ram much of anything behind it. My battery box is still accessible with these arrangements.  ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: JDiggs
Date Posted: January-13-2009 at 1:33pm
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The battery box in my boat is directly between the seats. Im not sure it's going to work for the reasons stated by 79, we'll just have to see when we get there. I just wanted to get some opinions to make sure I wasn't missing any reasons not to do it. ANY storage on this boat is better than the NONE it currently has.
The drawing stops at the kickplate. Although you guys understand what's going on, other people, such as myself who are diving into something like this and don't have the first clue may find it helpful in the future. I read through many of the threads concerning different rebuilds and picked up some knowledge from each of them. As an engineer, I know there is always more than one way to solve a problem. Im going to leave the stock seat in for now. When I bought the boat there was a hole in the floor between the seats to access the battery, a cosole that sat over the hole. Like 75 said, I think it would be kinda difficult to get to frequently, but nice to have nonetheless. |
Posted By: JDiggs
Date Posted: January-14-2009 at 3:03am
First draft of main stringer. Bottom drawing superimposed over a 2x8x12. Dimension to the long side of the bevel. You can see from the bottom drawing why the gas tank support is a seperate piece of wood. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-14-2009 at 11:16am
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Jeremy, that drawing is great. Any chance you could post a larger version? I cant read some of the dimensions. If not, email it to me: TRBenj@gmail.com ------------- |
Posted By: JDiggs
Date Posted: March-02-2009 at 3:52pm
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Time to work on this has been few and far between here lately, but I have made some progress.
I have one of my main stringers and one my secondary stringers cut and sanded to fit. I think this is a pretty big step because it eliminates some of the unknown parameters. My new gameplan: Finish demoing the inside of the boat. Cut out the other wood members Order supplies Clean and prep inside of boat for install I'll re-evaluate after I get all this done. Im going to update my drawings, they were a little off. Also, I'll add some pics of the stringers with dims, etc. March 2nd today, got a lot to do in 2 months |
Posted By: JDiggs
Date Posted: March-11-2009 at 7:48pm
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Just a note on my secondary stringer I cut. It was 7.25" too short. I still don't know how the F that happened. Good thing it was just a test piece.
Got a question for you guys. Should the stringers be level in both directions? From front to back and side to side. I know you have a slope toward the bilge, your secondaries should be level and your mains should be leve, just didn't know if there was a slope from front to back. Also, I know fir is much more rot resistant naturally than pine, but what after you coat it with epoxy, Im not sure it matters because water should not be getting to the wood at that point? Is there any evidence out there? What about using a polyurethane glue such as 3M 5200 to bed the stringers? I know somebody said it takes forever to set up, so how about the 4200? Thanks guys |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: March-11-2009 at 7:58pm
Alan has my board stretcher...
There was a slope to the rear on my boat...'88BFN.
I don't think the additional glass you'll need will stick to that. 2 points though for thinking outside the box! ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-11-2009 at 8:04pm
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Jeremy, Im pretty sure that the secondaries stringers I put in my Tique only needed to be shaped the last foot or so in the front. Otherwise they were just a full width 6" board- they sat in the same exact place as the originals. Minimal effort required!
I traded emails with Pete about the material of choice for the stringers. DF was the best, but Hemlock and clear white pine were decent alternatives. I dont think you'll want to bed with 5200, as Im not sure it will ever fully cure and Ive been told that glass wont stick to it. I doubt 4200 would be much better. Id stick with the tried and true methods. Not sure if you noticed, but CC didnt bed them from the factory- they put them down on top of strips of foam. ------------- |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-11-2009 at 8:54pm
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I agree on the bedding material. Epoxy peanut butter is way easier to work with, and I would guess, by the amount i ended up using, far cheaper than 5200 would be. There is no way that stuff would cure before mid summer, if ever.
I had the Mustang level on the trailer front to back and tied the wheel crank to keep it there while working on it. I ended up finishing level front to back, but my positive going towards the bilge in the back did not happen. I am level to slightly outward. Not sure how that happened, but try to not do what I did. I don't think it is the end of the world. Mike ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: JDiggs
Date Posted: March-16-2009 at 3:47am
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Thanks guys
Thicken the epoxy up w/ 404 & put a strip of E-glass in the bottom to bed the stringer? Im going to get it close to level across the boat, but trust my measurements and the dims off the stringer I pulled out for the front to back slope. Just want to make sure it's the right height at the motor mount, otherwise it shouldn't be critical. Im going w/ SYP #2 coated in epoxy for the stringers. I know this is not the best way. So don't do as I do on this one if you can afford to, but I think Im shooting for the "most economical" (Notice I did NOT say cheapest) redo possible. So I'll be the guinea pig on this one unless you know of anyone else who has done this with bad results. |
Posted By: JDiggs
Date Posted: December-30-2009 at 4:47am
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Back from the dead. A 16 mo and a 4 mo old and football season has kept me pretty busy for a while, but got a little money and motivation again, so Im going to try to knock it in the next few months.
Tell me somebody has come up with a magic way to replace stringers since I was here last summer. Got to finish grinding the rest of the old fiberglass stringers. I think you have to grind it down to the hull to make the stringers work. I have all the wood cut, got to fine tune the stringers when I get the fiberglass ground down. Then epoxy the stringers. Now I just need some time...... |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: December-30-2009 at 10:33am
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all i can add is the boat is in the same spot it was a year ago ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: December-30-2009 at 6:12pm
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Good to see you back,a young family and boat rebuild now that’s hard. ------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-12-2010 at 6:10pm
| Do you have larger updated images of these measurements? You did all that hard work I would love to see the end result. Thinking of getting into a stringer job myself. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-12-2010 at 6:46pm
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Keegan, send me an email- I have the files: TRBenj@gmail.com ------------- |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: January-12-2010 at 7:05pm
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Tim:
Can you count me in for the files too? I have a Tique of that era whose "shoes are a little wet" ........... Just waiting for the right time.....  Thanks!
Steve ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: JDiggs
Date Posted: January-13-2010 at 3:59am
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Thanks guys. Im going to revise those files very soon. I couldnt get the curve just right along the hull, so I have ground the rest of the old channels down and Im going to use the protractor? method to fine tune it. Those files should be pretty close though.
I'll post up an updated framing plan shortly. |