auto vs marine engine
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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13370
Printed Date: September-16-2024 at 4:27pm
Topic: auto vs marine engine
Posted By: kapla
Subject: auto vs marine engine
Date Posted: April-17-2009 at 4:02pm
what are the main differences on marine and car engine (appart fuel pump carbs exhaust).. what are ther marine specific components? gaskets cam?
what makes car engine unsuitable for marine use.. and better to buy a marine born engine when doing a swap?
Soory i´m asking but could not find any tread with this subject...
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<a href="">1992 ski nautique
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Replies:
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: April-17-2009 at 5:05pm
block wise there's nothing really other than the freeze plugs need to be brass and some high-end builders will do that on automotive applicates as well. Ring gaps are differnt and piston material is different but again some builders will use the correct pistons auto or marine as well.
Alternator, starter, distributor, and carb are marine spec, carb has flood protection, electrical has spark protection.
then you have reverse rotation engine which are all marine specific.
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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique
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Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: April-17-2009 at 5:11pm
the cams are the same... though marine use different cams that have a different torque curve...
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<a href="">1992 ski nautique
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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: April-17-2009 at 6:37pm
the wall clearance on the pistons is .0015 to .0025 and usually they go on the high side because of piston scuff, but i have used car engines in the past for marine
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: April-17-2009 at 10:01pm
In addition,
The 351 truck/marine lower end is what you want.
the auto engine has different rods, straight-cut where the bolt heads are, the truck/marine rods are what is call spot-faced for more meat where they are slimest.
Besides, the truck block is more likely to be found unless you are gleeping from a police interceptor, (and those likely have truck/marine lower ends too!.).
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole
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Posted By: 2_Nautiques
Date Posted: April-19-2009 at 10:25am
For what it's worth, long ago in the seventies I worked for a GM gray iron foundry that poured engine blocks and heads. I can remember changing a line over to run a few "marine heads". I have no idea what the difference was?
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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1160" rel="nofollow - 1988 Ski Nautique
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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: April-19-2009 at 12:53pm
some blocks and heads will have "for example" 020 on them which they pour more nickle in the cast iron, which creates a stronger block. now im not 100% before someone goes off on a tangent...but i do know the 020 does contain its ingredients.
I also too have noticed a more custom rod on marine as GS points out. so if at all possible go for a marine block, there are many differences
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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Posted By: 2_Nautiques
Date Posted: April-19-2009 at 2:12pm
I am trying to remember what was different about the heads. The only thing I recall is that the same green sand patterns were used between the autos and marine but the marine heads used different cores. This would mean that the internal passages would be different but the outside of the castings would be the same. They were poured with the same grey iron as the auto heads?
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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1160" rel="nofollow - 1988 Ski Nautique
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Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: April-19-2009 at 11:25pm
I can think of one, the marine heads maybe didn't have the thermactor ports (bumps in the exhaust passage for the air injection.
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole
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