New Carpet - Help :)
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1453
Printed Date: January-15-2025 at 4:37pm
Topic: New Carpet - Help :)
Posted By: Guests
Subject: New Carpet - Help :)
Date Posted: April-14-2005 at 3:12am
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I removed all the carpet out of my 82 and I am almost ready to recarpet. But I assume, I need to remove the rubber from the old carpet that is still stuck to the floor? Correct?
What is the best way to do this? I have scraped on it, but it is a slow process and parts of the boat where water wasnt present there is a large build up the rubber backing and I cant barely scrape it. ie. under the closed bow. Any advice on what solvent or do I just need to scrape. Thanks jason |
Replies:
Posted By: skyhawkflyer
Date Posted: April-14-2005 at 10:53am
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Be careful with any solvent. I wouldn't touch it with anything like Naptha, MEK, or laquer thinner. Most will leech into the fiberglass and may weaken the area where it's applied.
My brother used a garden hose, he soaked his carpet down good before he tried pulling it up. Most of it came up. He used a plastic body filler (bondo) spreader to scrape up any remainder. Hope this helps. ------------- |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: April-14-2005 at 3:03pm
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Jason:
On the stubborn areas, I think a solvent is fine. Acetone, MEK and lacquer thinner will not attack cured polyester or epoxy resins. Just be carefull of the fumes and fire hazard you will be creating. Do small areas at a time with plenty of ventilation. Fans should be kept a good distance away (So the motor will not ignite fumes...just in case). You should also wear chemical resistant gloves to keep the gooey mesh off your hands (and solvent). Avoid flooding the area with solvent because it will eat away the bilge paint if it runs into the bilge. MEK and Lacque thinner would be better than acetone as they do not evaporate away as quickly as Acetone. TJ has a point that if the fiberglass is cracked or pourous, and the solvent gets underneath, it will attack the foam...but if you have this problem, then you have a water problem anyway. 
Sorry so wordy, but another meathod would be a wire wheel in a drill motor. Careful use of a belt or orbital sander MIGHT even work. Experiment and see what works best for you. |
Posted By: 82tique
Date Posted: April-14-2005 at 3:14pm
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Jason-
I ran into the same problem. So I got my pressure washer out and just blasted it off. Took about 20 minutes. (covered the engine with a tarp first.) Good Luck. |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: April-14-2005 at 6:01pm
| I've used a scraper, not a razer sharp one, but one with enough edge to it. |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: April-15-2005 at 11:34am
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When you install the new carpet, start with the pylon. I cut a small X in the carpet and slid it over the pylon and smoothed it out and cut the rest to fit. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: April-15-2005 at 11:43am
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I would suggest that you remove the pylon before you start as well as the engine cover. I actually cut a couple of slits in the carpet so that it would go over the engine and layed the floor as one piece of carpet with no seams any where. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: April-15-2005 at 11:49am
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Well I hope anyone would have the seats and the engine cover out before they start. Doing it by yourself, the pylon can help hold the carpet in place while you split it over the engine. Just to help you have a stationary point while you cut and craw over the carpet. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: April-15-2005 at 4:02pm
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I actually using a 6' wide piece of carpet that is about 24' in length.
I did not want to use the rubber seal that originally formed the 2 pieces of at the side and floor of the boat. It layed out pretty nice and I cut it to fit, but I am getting wrinkles on the gunnels of the boat. This is probably why they didnt lay it all in 1 piece. But, I think it looks a lot better. Any advice, I havent glued it down yet, just test fitting. thanks, and by the way, I replaced the floor so, the interior, engine cover, but NOT the pylon are out of the boat. |
Posted By: kenny g
Date Posted: April-15-2005 at 5:19pm
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when you get started with the glue the wrinkles will go away on the sides.
it's probably to late but i was thinking oven cleaner might remove that old carpet backing. ------------- kenny g |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: April-17-2005 at 12:54pm
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I don't think you will be able to get the wrinkles out if you leave it as all one piece floor and sides. You will have to cut pie shaped pieces out of the sides so it can lay flat, remember the sides are curved and the floor is flat. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: April-19-2005 at 5:04pm
| I just finished with the carpeting in my 84. The only part I need to do is the moulding where the floor meets the side. Any pointers on putting that on. Its Nautique molding. Thanks |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: April-19-2005 at 6:43pm
| I think the rubber moulding is no more than typical/standard carpet/vinyl flooring transition used in non-marine applications. You should be able to find it at flooring stores. At least this is the case with my '93 SN. |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: April-20-2005 at 5:50pm
| Thanks for the reply David F. I have the moulding from Correct Craft and am wondering the proper installation. Which side of the moulding gets tucked in and how is it held there. Thanks |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: April-20-2005 at 6:26pm
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The moulding is glued down. 3M weatherstrip adhesive works well. Wipe the rubber surface to be glued with acetone prior to glueing.
One of the moulding is designed to have the carpet tucked in. The otherside is designed to have the moulding overlap adjacent floor material (i.e. carpet or nothing in your case). If the moulding is at the base of the perimeter of the floor at the base of the sides, then the part that is designed ot overlap simply abuts the sides and overlaps nothing. Hope this helps. |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: April-21-2005 at 12:09pm
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Thanks for the info David F. I am finishing up
on the carpeting project this weekend and hopefully skiing in a couple weeks now that the ice is off. |