Distributor
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=146
Printed Date: November-21-2024 at 2:19pm
Topic: Distributor
Posted By: tommer12
Subject: Distributor
Date Posted: February-16-2004 at 3:10am
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I want to change my old school weighted distributor on my 1984 2001 Ford 351 Commander. The distributor is the original and I had to replace a spring in it last year... I know there is way to change it out, but how? I am fairly mechanical, just have nevered done it. What would I need or would I want to bring it to someone to do it?
Thanks! tc |
Replies:
Posted By: tryan
Date Posted: February-16-2004 at 12:31pm
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set you motor to top dead center by the marks on the front cover and the harmonic balancer.
make sure the rotor points to the #1 cylinder. note the position of the rotor with a felt tip on the old housing. remove the bolt for the hold down clamp. raise the old dizzy up about 1/4 inch and tap on the shaft with a screwdriver handle. as you slide the housing up, note which direction the rotor turns and mark this with a different color felt tip. pray the oil pump drive stays in place. oil the o-ring on the new housing. insert the new dizzy with the rotor poining to your second mark. it should align with your first mark when it seats. you will have to re-time the motor, but it will start with this method. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=146&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - promo http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=192&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970 - #2 |
Posted By: tommer12
Date Posted: February-16-2004 at 2:42pm
| before anything.... you are a great help here on the posting board.. What type of distributor would I buy to replace it? I know I have to use Marine grade, but I think I have to use some sort electronic? |
Posted By: SS-201
Date Posted: February-16-2004 at 3:25pm
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Msd sells a marine version , magnetic pickup. Pestolite sells one. HOWEVER you have to replace the distributor gear for opposite rotation. If you are in fact runing that way. ------------- SS 201 |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-17-2004 at 2:33pm
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I have a rev rotation 351w 1979 model yr. I'm going with a mallory electronic dist Part # YLU554DV it cost $310 through jegs or summit. You can get a prestolite version through skidim for the same money. One comment though on tryan's install, The way it is described would apply for removing and installing the same distributor which would keep the timing fairly close and make it easy to start. But if you are replacing with a new Distributor your referance marks are on the old housing.
here's my two cents line up the marks and get #1 on TDC like tryan states mark the rotor position relative to the block watch the rotation of the rotator as you remove it and mark this location on the block as well. This will get the gears line up and not be out of wak relative to the cam and crank. since every housing is a little different and the amount of advance will be different from one to another you can try and make a mark on the old housing and the block and transfer this to the new housing using the key for the cap as a reference and line up these marks on the block and you should have the timing close when you start it for the first time. Worst come to worst you may have to rotate the base of the distributor to get it to fire to retime the engine. So if the starter is draging when you crank it and the engine won't start rotate the distributor slowly until the starter runs normally if it gets worst while turning it change directions. Once the engine fires and stays running use the timing light and set the correct timing and lock it down. If your lucky you won't have to move it to get it started just don't crank the starter for a long time if the inital timing is off let it rest and give it another shot. You should only have to rotate the distributor from say one o'clock to two o'clock not a quarter of a turn or so. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-17-2004 at 3:24pm
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Tryan, since we're talking dizzy's the new one I'm getting is a three wire job with what I assume is a tach lead for the third wire. Currently the tach is ran off of the alternator (factory set-up) correct? Will it be a pain rewiring things to use the existing tach or should I get a new tach? I can verify the current one's accuracy (sp) when I install the new motor while it's at the shop but if it isn't reading correctly I have to do something to correct it. What's your two cents? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: SS-201
Date Posted: February-17-2004 at 4:31pm
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Be sure you specify reverse rotation, automotive is right hand, marine left, in order to have the correct cam drive gear. Only PCM I believe built reverse rotation motors for CC up to 1989 after that with the transmisson change they are Automotive, right hand, all others prior turned left hand auto or marine right rotation. Automotive is as you stand in front and marine is when you are behind the engine. Tach leads are usually green wire, Dist have a + and -, color coded. If you hook up wrong wire usually the timing will be retarded, so if you know your timing you can check, no biggie. ------------- SS 201 |
Posted By: tryan
Date Posted: February-17-2004 at 6:24pm
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hot (+) for the coil comes off the ballast resistor at the bell housing. the points or pickup grounds the negative side of the primary (low voltage) section of the coil. (99% of the time it's a green wire.)
an electronic pickup will require a seperate power source and a ground. the third wire being the signal for the coil. colors will vary by what type unit. the tach is generaly pulled from the negative lead at the coil. odd stuff.... they make/sell surge suppressors for the pick-up. some require an electronic coil. spiral and stainless wires are a no-no. some pick-ups require low voltage (ie powered through your existing ballast or by adding a voltage reducing wire.) don't leave the key on without the engine running. a conversion will work without this crap, but it will live LONGER with these additional changes. i run a unilite, but i keep a set of points and a small puller on the boat just in case. they came in handy once. i dislike pertronix stuff. i would go msd or mallory. that's 3 cents worth. i would cross reference your existing dizzy # before you order. swapping out the whole thing is the best deal. i dropped a itsy-bitsy spring inside a dist. on a saab one time and lost it. that got real expensive before it was all over with. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=146&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - promo http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=192&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970 - #2 |
Posted By: SS-201
Date Posted: February-17-2004 at 7:14pm
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Crane makes a XR1 electronic with a adjustable revlimiter built in. Green wire are tach leads to wearever you are going to connect it to. All the distubitors have advance springs no matter what you buy. The newer ones have the springs so you can get at them without removeing the distributor. Crane make great products, when you change dist or electronic be sure your coil is acceptable to the converson. Also some require you don't use the resistor, read the directons good and resist the BS. ------------- SS 201 |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-17-2004 at 8:23pm
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I don't want to mess around with a CD system like the XR1 or MSD's version which basicly replaces the coil and doesn't run without a triggering device i.e. dist., I have choose a ready to run direct replacement drop in and go distributor and hot coil set-up. My main question is where does the tach get it's signal from the alt. or the coil from the factory wiring. I know that it can be done from either source. Colors of wires are meaningless because on mine green goes to one of the sensors, and you have a pruple and gray wire going to the coils from the factory for my year boat. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: SS-201
Date Posted: February-17-2004 at 9:13pm
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The XR1 ia drop in to replace the points, the wires I am familiar with as I am a Nautique owner. To answer your question the tach runs off the wire that is connected to the coil.It gets its pulses from the dist.The wires are purple, gray and brown. The tach wire that is hooked to the coil goes up to the tach and the tach is then grounded. The green wire I was refering to is from other units such as CD etc. Sorry about that. ------------- SS 201 |
Posted By: tryan
Date Posted: February-17-2004 at 9:27pm
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the pdf file for the 1980 shows a gray wire for the tach in the reference section. i have never run a tach off the alt'nator. my original hot feed to the coil was/is purple.
i had a cd on a old car and it was wired assbackwards from logic. the negative side of the coil was grounded to the body and the control box was triggered by the points to send a signal to the hot side of the coil. edit.......if the gray wire was hooked up to the negative post on the coil, that is the tach feed. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=146&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - promo http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=192&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970 - #2 |
Posted By: SS-201
Date Posted: February-17-2004 at 10:48pm
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Why do you make this such a project whatever existing wires go exactly where they did before. The tach wire whatever color tied up to the coil is the tach wire which goes to the tach then the tach is grounded in the system. It get its signal from the dist, magnetic,points or whatever you use for a trigger system. Oh there were units that had boxes attached Sun units etc, but this is not the case. ------------- SS 201 |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-18-2004 at 10:28am
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My concern is that I'm putting in a new HP engine and I need for the tach to read correctly to re-size the prop so that I do not over rev the engine. I can verify the tach's accuracy with the engine analizer at the shop when I replace the engine. So if the tach isn't correct I have to use an aftermarket tach and shell out a ton for an original replacement. The wiring diagrams I've look at are completely different than what I recall the way my tach is wired. The diagrams show two wires plus two for the light. My has a atleast for or five wires going to it so I'm a little concerned. Hopefully it will read correctly and I won't have to jake with anything I guess I will have to wait and see in a couple of weeks when the motor is finished and I install it. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: February-18-2004 at 1:08pm
| I have two tachs on mine they both read differently at low RPM about 300. However at top end they read the same. One is the orignal and the other is the best money can buy, go figure. Follow the directions and you can,t go wrong, and that's the problem with electronic tachs. The real way to get an accurate reading is with a mechanical tach. That's what high power race boats use, I know this cause I did it for 30 years. Good luck you will be fine. If you know the prop formula you will be ok if would like to know it let me know, it saves a ton of time and money. |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-18-2004 at 3:21pm
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I could use the prop info? someone listed some info on skiboathelp.com and I was going to refer to it but you seem like a better source with your background in racing. I'm increasing the HP by 60 to 100 more ponies I won't know exactly how much until I get the dyno sheet in a week or so. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: SS 201
Date Posted: February-18-2004 at 6:40pm
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What boat do you have now, model year? was the engine stock when you got it, is it 1.1 transmission> 351 or 302 CU? what prop do you have, what RPM do you turn now? What are you looking for RPM VS prop. How fast do yoi intend to go. What's realistic?
To go fast you have to turn at least 15 or 16 pitch props at 5500 6000 RPM. You have to figure the hull and prop slippage for effecieny, such as 10,20 % loss. How much HP per mile per hour, ex. 10, 15, 20 etc. What cam are you putting in, what are the duration specs? ex 2500- 2500, 3000- 6000, Remember torque is always the larger number up to 5250, after that the HP crosses and overcomes it. Just a few things that have to considered. ------------- |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-18-2004 at 8:00pm
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I have a 79 ski nautique 13 x 13 prop it ran about 4200-4400 rpm. The engine was a 351W rev rotation 240hp, 1:1 velvet drive all stock as far as I knew with the exception of electron ign conv from the points style dist. But that was the old junk which has a busted water jacket somewhere.
What I am replacing it with is a balanced 351W rev rot. with increased compression, modified cam, edlebrock performer aluminum intake, Mallory YLU554DV electronic distributor with a MSD high vibration blaster II coil and a holley carb which I will have to re-jet most likely. I the engine will be live run on a dyno as well. I will be recieving a print out from the dyno for torque, HP (300+ is what I was told) and max RPM, I can find out what the lift and duration of the cam is but currently do not know any specs put I will have all this info in the future. What I was planning on doing is installing the engine running it for a little bit to break it in then finding the max RPM then replacing the prop to get it back to the recommended RPM. As far as top end speed the more the better with out loosing to much on the hole shot. I really wasn't worried about top speed more RPM. I didn't think I had a lot of choices on the RH prop's dia due to haul clearence don't need to guoge the haul you know. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: tryan
Date Posted: February-18-2004 at 8:16pm
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i would get a pile of jets when shes hooked up to the dyno and get the preliminary jetting dialed in. if you have time before it's done, you might buy one of those adjustable metering blocks. if it's raining money, somebody might slip a 650 or 750 cfm double pumper under your pillow.
if you cam it, they will come. (vacumme activated secondary 4160 might piss you off if the cam is big. putting a screw in the secondary linkage will give you a flat spot.) power vavle is suppose to be 2 inches or so below minimum vac at wot. i would say you have a 7 or 7.5. i would pick up a 5 for the dyno run. cfm is diplacement x rpm x volumeteric efficiency. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=146&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - promo http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=192&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970 - #2 |
Posted By: SS 201
Date Posted: February-18-2004 at 9:01pm
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I wonder they got the cam from, no one makes reverse rotation anymore, especially high performance. I would be interested where it came from. ------------- |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-19-2004 at 10:39am
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Jasper is doing the engine and I won't have access to the dyno. I think I can find out what carb and jetting they use when they run it. All class II engines are ran on the dyno and I will ask if the grind their own or buy the cam from someone.
From what I've read and talking with jasper they use the same intake and stock carb for that year engine when they run it. I'll call and get the lift and dur. and see what I can found out about the carb and jetting. I left the carb work to my dad so I'll have him dial it in when it's all said and done. He's an ASE MASTER TECH for gas and desiel so I think he might be able to help. I know for sure he can put a rochester together in is sleep. I was a smart ass when I was younger and on my first car we rebuilt the motor and carb got it running didn't have a four gas analizer at the time, het got one a month later made him hook my car up to it and we could not adjust the carb to improve upon what he already had it set. I quite questioning him after that. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: tryan
Date Posted: February-19-2004 at 12:37pm
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back to tommers question. a conversion kit is more complicated, so the extra expence of a 'drop in' is worth it, especially on an aged unit.
the thrust is opposite even though it turns the same direction. 'special' always cost a little more. 79 your dash gauge will have 5 wires. signal, 12 volts(switched), ground and the two wires for the light. your new dizzy should just have 3 wires. dropped voltage power, gound and the signal. the signal wire will feed the tach and the coil ground. i believe my mondo alt has a terminal marked aux. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=146&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - promo http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=192&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970 - #2 |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-19-2004 at 1:57pm
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I guess I will have to read the instructions for the distributor for proper install.
SS-102 & tryan here are the engine specs 305-315HP, 5500 max RPM, custom grind from comp cams at .050" tappet lift duration 218 int 224 exhaust lift .476 int .481 exhaust 112 lobe seperation needs a 650 cfm carb and I'll have to play with the jets. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: SS 201
Date Posted: February-19-2004 at 3:21pm
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A 600 will be just fine, that's one step up from stock cam will be in the 2000 rpm to 4500 rpm torque range, howvever can rev higher.Good choice, I am assumeing you are useing 1.6 rockers. ------------- |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-19-2004 at 4:16pm
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I really don't know it a long block from Jasper engines and transmission. I would assume it is stock rocker arms. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: SS 201
Date Posted: February-19-2004 at 7:13pm
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They are 1.6.1 stock, you will be fine. ------------- |
Posted By: reidp
Date Posted: February-20-2004 at 11:39am
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BC,
I've got most of the same modifications on a 302 engine including moderate head work. From test and trial on mine, I picked up +/- 700-800 rpm spinning the original 12x14 prop on a 16 footer with the engine enhancements. This increase was from 4400 to 51-5200 rpm. Testing with a higher pitch prop (12x15) lowered the rpm slightly and resulted in the practically the same top speed, but slowed slightly out of the hole. Since you were only turning 42-4400 max before, I'd be willing to bet that you'll receive your best performance all around with that same original prop, and probably ending up in the 5-5200 rpm range which definitely isn't too high considering those engine modifications. Keep us posted. ------------- ReidP /diaries/details.asp?ID=231&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - 1973 Mustang |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-20-2004 at 2:18pm
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Checking with what props are avalible for a RH it looks like I could get 12x15 , 13x14, 13x17 14x14 or 14x16 beside the 13x13 I currently have. 12x15 or 13x14 would be most likely the best choices but I will have to wait and see. Once I get my baseline then I will need to know what effect changing the pitch and also diameter will have on RPM. I'm increasing the HP by 70hp from what I had so I think I will have to change props to compensate. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: SS 201
Date Posted: February-20-2004 at 4:25pm
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So what speed ReidP does that boat run? 52X14 or 15 ------------- |
Posted By: tryan
Date Posted: February-20-2004 at 8:26pm
alright, i can't keep my mouth shut. it sounds like a screamer but that's the minimum on the lobe seperation for a wet exhaust. don't let any friends start it until it's dialed in and keep the flappers lined up flush with the end of the tail pipe. 
holley sell a complete kit that is much cheaper than buying individal jets. if you run at different altitudes the kits are great. i would still get a double pumper though and start with 64's. unleaded doesn't make reading the plugs easy but the last couple threads might give you a reading. i wanna ride ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=146&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - promo http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=192&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970 - #2 |
Posted By: reidp
Date Posted: February-20-2004 at 9:28pm
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Bill,
My 16' Mustang turns the 12x14 5200 and tops out easily at 56 mph. With an increase in HP which I feel is similar to what BC is looking for, +/- 70 HP, I picked up roughly 10 mph top speed which I'm definitely satisfied with, but the biggest difference is in the pull, throttle response and acceleration to top speed. If you could give me a call sometime, I'd like to pick your brain on the nitrous. I've given up on making the old-style Mustang run any faster, as it's a borderline dangerous submarine now, but I'd still like to push an older Nautique closer to the limit. The pre-1970's Nautiques we have, virtually possess no hook in the hull, ride bow high, and thus do run quick with minimal HP, (46-48 with 318/210HP Chry). I'd like to see one of these boats with 400+HP. Please don't tell me to get a race boat. That's too practical. ------------- ReidP /diaries/details.asp?ID=231&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - 1973 Mustang |
Posted By: tryan
Date Posted: February-20-2004 at 9:46pm
reid, did the stork bring you a five hundred pound present? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=146&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - promo http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=192&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970 - #2 |
Posted By: reidp
Date Posted: February-21-2004 at 12:19am
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Nope, not yet, but the 413 Mopar marine is making its way east. I guess you picked up on my 400hp comment. ------------- ReidP /diaries/details.asp?ID=231&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - 1973 Mustang |
Posted By: SS 201
Date Posted: February-21-2004 at 8:18am
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ReidP, First. Your numbers tell me that you have a 20% hull and prop defeciency. I think we had this discussion, you don't want or a hook ,If anything a little rock, flat is better. You need a 9 or 10 degree strut angle, a prop that is positioned as close to the back of the strut and the blade about 1/4 of a inch from the bottom. A Prop that has at least 9 degrees of rake. The older Michigan actually have a + 2 degrees forceing the nose down. You want to bring the nose up and the transom up but not to far, the water wants to be about a couple of feet from the transom under full power. Nitrous is great however very dangerous, that is you go from ex 9.1 comp to a instant 15,16,17, to 1 in a heartbeat. It' instant power it requires , retard, etc. I would be glad to discuss it however get the boat right first. My boat, I made several changes, however I would not let anyone but myself drive it with the nitrous on.Also take those spray rails off if your going to add all this speed. If you disatified with the bottom, flip it over and use body filler and make it the way you want, that's the way the big boys do it. ------------- |
Posted By: reidp
Date Posted: February-21-2004 at 12:26pm
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Bill, Thanks.
Couple of questions. When you say "the water wants to be a couple of feet from the transom...", are you referring to the where the spray starts to angle up from the chine where it breaks the water surface under full power? If so, this boat is falling way short of the mark, as it's probably closer to 4-5'. It's got enough of a bow-down attitude that you can't make this boat porpoise at full speed unless you have at least two full size adults in the rear seat. I'll just close the book on this hull and be happy with the decent speed it runs now, except to at least look at the prop positioning relative to the strut and hull bottom, where I know I'm not quite up to the spec's you mentioned in both respects. As for adding speed to the '61-'69 vintage Nautiques, which I think is a more feasible and easier target, is that the wooden spray rail you were referring to removing, (or not replacing)? The Mustangs didn't have them as an add-on fortunately. I've got the orange '67 SN project shown in the diaries with the spray rails currently removed. But it sure can be a wet ride without it at idle speeds. However, if its worth a couple MPH, I can live with a little water in the face, plus replacing them won't be the funnest chore anyway, as opposed to just patching the holes. Also I noticed, and this is totally personal taste, or lack thereof, that this original vintage SN hull doesn't look totally ridiculous or incomplete with the windshield left off, as there's no obvious raised decking screaming "missing winshield". I wouldn't dare consider this on any other CC hulls. (I can already see the raised eyebrows of the purests). I've got the nice two-piece plexiglass windshield with this one, but it was sorta neat taking a few rides without it and having some wind in your face, plus my wife wants to hear nothing of a Jersey Speed Skiff. There was a young man at the FLA reunion a few years back who restored a bright yellow and white SN like this which was rather retro and really sharp. Maybe someone saw it. ------------- ReidP /diaries/details.asp?ID=231&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - 1973 Mustang |
Posted By: SS 201
Date Posted: February-21-2004 at 2:56pm
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Eactly, the farther the waters breaks from the transom, if you looked at any of my boats you would see. That is the utmost. Usually when a boat porpoises it means the prop pitch is not enough. Think like a portable fan, we need volume but not too much to turn the boat on its chine, with that HP you should be turnig a 15 pitch. The only way to go fast is to turn a lot of pitch a lot of RPM. HOWEVER, YOU SHOULD GET THE PROP POSITIONED RIGHT, CLOSE UP TO STRUT AND CLOSE TO THE BOTTOM AWAY FROM THE RUDDER. The rake of a blade will help to bring up the nose. Think like a Semi Trailer, the further uo the boggy wheels the lighter the nose. Call Eric at Johnson 800-359 9730 get a prop to start with, he will work with you. If you were close I have several. ------------- |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-21-2004 at 3:36pm
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You guys are hard core speed freaks, Which fits right in with me. Tryan I'm a little confused on the flapper's. Currently I have the hinged area of the flapper horizontal, parralel to the deck. Do I need to rotate them or add screws to the inside to keep it closed? (CL of boat)so that it opens to the outside of the haul. I'm assuming the 4160 is a 600cfm carb and my dad say's there is no power valve to jack with. He rebuilt it last season and said read just the idle mixture screws and then get a plug check after running it a 1/2 hour. My dad said not to worry about the carb being 600 verses a 650, I would loose a little power but not enough to worry about.
Oh by the way the long block got delivered yesterday. Thought I was going to be able to uncover the boat and pull the seats and motor box cover and get it ready to take it in to the shop but it snowed again last night after the rain had washed away all the old snow away. Well the dist and new coil won't be in for a couple of weeks anyway. I guest my MSD blaster II coil burns up the ignition module in the dist I'm using so I have to get a mallory promaster series to use. Any one nees a Blaster II coil? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: tryan
Date Posted: February-21-2004 at 4:23pm
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79, congrats on your delivery. damn snow.
the pcm manifolds really just dump the exhaust, so there is no scavenging effect to pull the next pulse, so reversion (water getting sucked back into the motor) is very possible with 110 centers. flappers are just good insurance. lean will make the motor backfire up through the carb, so err on the rich side while you dial it in. i thought 4160 had a power valve on the primary metering plate and the secondary has a fixed plate. i might be confused. take the primary plate off the main housing and check. the reusable blue gakets work well. after you get the mains close, see what level of manifold vac she pulls under load at wot. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=146&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - promo http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=192&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970 - #2 |
Posted By: tryan
Date Posted: February-21-2004 at 7:17pm
79 , are you going to use a stiffer dampner plate? are we having fun yet? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=146&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - promo http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=192&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970 - #2 |
Posted By: SS 201
Date Posted: February-21-2004 at 7:31pm
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They all have power valves 4160 is up front. unless you plug them, not a good idea if you do it the jets are 8-10 richer. I would run a 6.5 or 8.5 power valve. I happen to run the 4160 for tunning, because it has annular discharges rather than down leg boosters. They accelerate like a 650 and run top side like s 750. Next thing is to find one, they come 600 and 750 CFM. You have no worry with reversion with that cam or maniflolds . Reversion is no mistery and greatly over stated, most people don't know what the hell their talking about anyway. ------------- |
Posted By: SS 201
Date Posted: February-21-2004 at 7:48pm
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I am assumeing you are speaking about the flaps on the end of the exhaust when siting in the water. They are to keep the water from backing up the pipes. Some of the older boats used manifolds that were lower than the stringers and would and did siphon up water and put it in the engine. ------------- |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-22-2004 at 1:01pm
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SS 201 you are correct. Do I need to change anything, angle them towards to outside, seal a section to make them hinge differently or just leave them alone?
As far as the carb goes I'll get the numbers off of it and varify everthing. My cousin in-law who is helping me, has a formula to calculate the proper CFM based upon the engine specs i.e cam, compression, displacement and so forth. He also has an extra holley at the shop that may be larger but that was one item we were planning on checking out and sizing correctly. Now if this damn weather would warm up I could get some work done and parts line up. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: tryan
Date Posted: February-22-2004 at 2:24pm
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if your going to slap the holley down on an edlebrock performer 2181 or rpm, you will need the adaptor plate to seal up the bottom of the holley. skidim and the local auto parts will have one.
do you have the carb base with the pvc port? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=146&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - promo http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=192&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970 - #2 |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-22-2004 at 2:55pm
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Already have the bases covered on the adapter and yes I do have the base with the PVC port plus a .75-1" spacer plate to raise the crab up further. The pvc and spacer came with the boat when I got it and I swaped out the manifold last year. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: SS 201
Date Posted: February-22-2004 at 4:27pm
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Leave them alone. ------------- |
Posted By: tryan
Date Posted: February-22-2004 at 5:23pm
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light at the end of the tunnel.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2461844747&category=33690 - dizzys-r-us an msd 150 bucks for a mallory (check the part # i think its a regular rotation) cheap http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2461896492&category=31284 - yh ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=146&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - promo http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=192&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970 - #2 |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-23-2004 at 10:35am
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I've all ready ordered the mallory unit. The MSD listed is not marine anyway, it says it is but if it was it would have a 6 on the end and be 5 digits not four. All ready looked into MSD which was my first choice but they only make a chevy and clevland versions unless they have released a 351W in the last two weeks. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |