more alignment
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15093
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 11:41am
Topic: more alignment
Posted By: dsla
Subject: more alignment
Date Posted: August-27-2009 at 11:01pm
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I am checking my alignment and obviously have an issue. When I separate the shaft coupling from the transmission, the prop shaft drops down .030" and right .013" When I spin the prop, with the shaft separated, it spins easier, but still not super easy. So, I measured the gap on the aft end of the strut, and left to right, the difference appears to be less than 1/64 of an inch. The gap on the bottom is 1/32 less than the gap on the top. Is that enough out of center to make the prop bind, or is it centered well enough to align the motor in this position? The shaft doesn't seem to be bent, because the gap is the consistent when I spin the prop.
I have to figure out how to resize pics before I can post them...sorry. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4418&sort=&pagenum=22&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1996 Ski Nautique |
Replies:
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-27-2009 at 11:08pm
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DSla - If your gap between the strut & shaft is not the same top vs. bottom, I would say the strut bushings are worn out. Since you have it partially apart, I would replace the bushings. Search for 'Shaft removal' & 'strut bushing replacement' in the forums - this procedure is well documented. After you get it back together & aligned well, you will be able to spin the prop with your finger. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-27-2009 at 11:39pm
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Dan,
I know Chris (SNobsessed) went though this issue way back as well and he has brought up some important things that need to be checked out. You really need to think about prop shaft/engine alignment really starts at the strut. The strut is really the item on the boat that needs to be lined up first to the hull. Get a new cutlass bearings in it and then see if the prop shaft is pretty centered with the hull hole/log/stuffing box and from there go to the trans/engine. From what you have described, you really need to look at the strut first. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: dsla
Date Posted: August-28-2009 at 3:16am
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Thanks guys, I will dig deeper and hopefully find where the issue is. I really appreciate the help. I am sure I will have many more questions in the coming days. Since I am going to replace the shaft & packing gland, would it be wise to put dripless packing in, or is the original wax better? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4418&sort=&pagenum=22&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1996 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-28-2009 at 10:26am
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I like dripless, personal choice though ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-28-2009 at 10:30am
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I can't see any advantage to the old style wax packing material (vs. Gore-tex) except you could save like $3. The gore-tex works very well for me, I might have 12 oz. of water in the bilge from an afternoon of boarding. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: ryanowen
Date Posted: August-28-2009 at 11:45am
My logic was since I already had it apart, I might as well order a dripless seal. I can't comment on how well it works yet, but installing the new seal was, by far, the easiest part of the entire alignment process. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3284 - 1988 Ski Nautique |
dsla wrote:Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-28-2009 at 11:54am
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dripless seals are maintanance free, set em and forget em, all the high end boats use dripless, nice option...btw, they dont drip at all.
alot of manufacturers use them because alot of times because of the placement of the log thaty area doesnt get alot of water and the old stuffing box will run hot. with the dripless you have a constant water supply ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: dsla
Date Posted: August-28-2009 at 12:20pm
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Sounds like dripless is the way I want to go. Thanks for the info. I believe this is what I need. http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=OJ2013 - Dripless Packing I will try and get it at my local dealer if they have it, so I can work on it tomorrow or monday. Will it eliminate that black rubber log then, or does it just attach where the packing gland nut currently is? If it eliminates the log, does the invertaflo muffler need to be removed for easier installation, or can it be done with it installed?
Eric, thanks for the help yesterday, I really appreciate it. Looks like a one day task turned into a little more fun, but what fun would a boat be if all you could do was ski behind it? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4418&sort=&pagenum=22&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1996 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: ryanowen
Date Posted: August-28-2009 at 12:27pm
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FWIW, I ended up ordering an OJ. Had a couple questions about the install and called a fellow named Tim at OJ. Super helpful and just a nice guy in general. Here it is, not totally done in this pic, but something to look at anyway.
Up to you where you buy it, but you get a 10% discount and no tax at Skidim.  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3284 - 1988 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: August-28-2009 at 12:35pm
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I have the tool to get the strut bearing out if you want to borrow it. ------------- |
Posted By: dsla
Date Posted: September-01-2009 at 6:00pm
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Thanks for the reply's everyone. I appreciate the help. I have a few pictures and some questions.
Here is the misalignment 
Here is the strut 
Here is the through-hull 
Here is the full view 
Now the questions... 1) Where the shaft goes through the strut, it is obviously at an angle, but does the through-hull look like it is centered well enough top to bottom? Does it appear that I may have to shim the strut? 2) It appears from the strut and through-hull that it is aligned left to right properly, am I correct? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4418&sort=&pagenum=22&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1996 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: dsla
Date Posted: September-01-2009 at 6:12pm
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I am going to order my bushing today, but I just have one more question. The strut is 6-1/4 inches long front to back. Is this the normal length, or might this be a replacement strut? It doesn't appear to have any damage around it in the gel. Also, I am assuming it means I must go with the two piece bushing.
Also, Discount Inboard Marine was saying that they have had people complaining about a lot of play with the XPC bushings. I have read some reviews, and they all seem positive. So, has anyone had any problems with extra play, or would it be better to get the brass? Thanks again everyone for your help. And behindpropeller, I appreciate the removal tool offer, but I think I will try cutting it out first. If it doesn't work, I may take you up on the offer, though. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4418&sort=&pagenum=22&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1996 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-01-2009 at 7:51pm
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Dan,
Looks like you will need two alignments! The hull hole/log looks good but yes, the strut needs to be shimmed. Stainless washers between the base and hull at the aft two bolts should do it. Don't forget the 5200 or 4200! Then you'll go up front and do the engine matching it up to the shaft. You really shouldn't have a issues with the hull being a 96. I wonder if the bad strut alignment came from the factory that way??? Laser alignment tool at the factory?? Marketing BS!!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ryanowen
Date Posted: September-02-2009 at 11:33am
I think either would be fine. I went with the XPC and if you slip them on over the drive shaft before you press them in the strut they do seem like they have a little play. Once you press them in though, they seem to compress a bit. Mine doesn't have much at all right now. If you do get the XPC bushings, don't bother with the set screws. All they did for me was bind the drive shaft. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3284 - 1988 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: dsla
Date Posted: March-29-2010 at 4:24am
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I finally got around to this project. I got the prop shaft out and took it down to Cecil at Elbert's. He put it on v blocks and the shaft was .005 out of tolerance between the strut and the transmission coupling. Aft of the strut it was .022, so I ended up buying an A.R.E. double taper shaft. Think its worth it to straighten this shaft and using it as a back up? If not, anyone looking for a coupling?
The strut was definitely misaligned. I am currently fine tuning that right now. I have both boat life's life seal and 3M 5200. Is one a better seal for this application, or doesn't it really matter? I'm not sure if I want to be cursing myself out while drinking a 12 pack if this ever needs to be removed again! Also, it appears that my front height adjustment on the engine is almost maxxed out. Can the top retaining nut be above slightly above the threads? I am trying to post a pic but am having trouble shrinking it. I will post when I get to my other computer. Thanks for your help, it is greatly appreciated! ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4418&sort=&pagenum=22&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1996 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: dsla
Date Posted: March-29-2010 at 4:32am
Here is the picture.
 ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4418&sort=&pagenum=22&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1996 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-29-2010 at 9:15am
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Dan,
I don't know why you've run out of adjustment on the mounts but instead of running it past the normal point, add a 1/4" aluminum plate under the mount. I'd go with the 5200 over the Boatlife polysulfide. Better sealing and better adhesion. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-29-2010 at 10:06am
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very unusual to see the trunion that high on the mount, the engine will have a tendency to teeter and move, remember you also need even pressure on all 4 mounts, or 1 mount may be doing more work. halway up the mount is normal....do some more checking i think you may find another problem ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-29-2010 at 10:08am
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you still can maintain good alignment by bringing that side down and the other side up...your definitely overlooking something ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: dsla
Date Posted: March-29-2010 at 4:38pm
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Thanks guys. I'm not sure why its that high either. I have not touched anything on the mounts yet, that is the way it came from the previous owner. I looked at right front and it has about a half inch more.
To align this stuff up, I am first aligning the strut, making sure the shaft goes dead center through the through-hull log on both ends, then seeing how it lines up with the engine, and moving the engine from there. Before I seal anything, I am going to have it completely aligned. I will post pics when I have the "dry fit" complete. It may be a week, since my schedule and my help's schedule don't line up. Is there something else, I should be looking at? The shim required on the strut is about 1/16 of an inch on the back two holes of the strut. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4418&sort=&pagenum=22&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1996 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-29-2010 at 4:55pm
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by dropping the motor down it's going to raise the rear of the shaft since it will pivot about the thru hull stuffing box. Those mounts should only be about 1/4 of the way up from the lowest position. Currently it's way to high and out of wack so it's useless trying to shim the strut, replace the bushings in the strut, drop the engine and then work on the alignment issue.
Also since the bushing is worn it looks like it's not centered in the strut so it' needs replaced. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: dsla
Date Posted: March-29-2010 at 5:11pm
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Glad I asked, or I would have been doing this twice! I just replaced the strut bushing a couple days ago, so it is new. So, if the shaft doesn't go dead nuts through the center of the through hull, it not a big deal, but should be as close as posible? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4418&sort=&pagenum=22&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1996 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-29-2010 at 5:14pm
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so was the picture with the new bushing installed? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: dsla
Date Posted: March-29-2010 at 5:24pm
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No, that was with the old bushing and alignment. It took two hands to spin the prop. That is what made me look into all this.
edit: the picture of the strut is the old set up. The height adjuster pic is where it was originally. With the new bushing and the strut aligned so the shaft is centered on the through hull, appears it may have to go higher. So, thats why I am a little concerned. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4418&sort=&pagenum=22&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1996 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-29-2010 at 8:10pm
Strut first to the shaft log/packing gland then the engine to the shaft. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-30-2010 at 10:07am
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a good gauge when a boat is perfectly aligned is when you can take your index finger (with the strut lubed) and spin the prop with your one finger easily.. ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: dsla
Date Posted: March-30-2010 at 4:14pm
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Thanks guys, I will continue with the original plan starting with the strut, and work with the engine after that.
Eric, the way it is spinning freely now, compared to the old strut and shaft, I think that goal will be met! 
When I bought the boat, I talked to an inboard repair shop and they were telling me as long as there is no vibration, and it will spin at all, its good. Maybe I should reconsider any advice they give me! Anyway, I appreciate all your help. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4418&sort=&pagenum=22&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1996 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-30-2010 at 4:39pm
Dan, You caught on to the fact that this shop really shouln't be giving advice like this!! Vibration can come from typically a bent shaft, a bad cutlass, a bad prop or even a loose prop on it's taper. I've found that misalignment will not initially cause vibration until it's ground out the cutlass, the coupling (fretted) or chewed up the tail end of the trans. If you think about misalingment from the standpoint of binding the shaft in the cutlass, it's actually dampening vibration. Maybe this shop is slow and needs some work! 
Keep us informed on how the whole alignment goes. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: dsla
Date Posted: April-05-2010 at 10:47pm
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Well, I got the strut aligned with the through hull, then aligned the engine and had .000 gap all around! The shaft spins great. I then removed the strut to apply 5200 and found some stress cracks. I drilled them out, and am going to seal them. I didn't tighten the bolts that much either. They were just snug. Do you guys think more will come? Any ideas how to avoid more or fix the problem??? Thanks! ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4418&sort=&pagenum=22&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1996 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-06-2010 at 9:11am
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Dan,
Where the cracks new or do you think they were there before you started? It doesn't take much pressure to stress the gell because it's pretty brittle. Since the mounting surface of the strut doesn't match the hull perfectly, a little tightening of the bolts can produce some small stress points. That's one of the nice things about the 5200. It will fill the small gaps and spead the lod out. I wouldn't worry about any more cracking. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: dsla
Date Posted: April-26-2010 at 3:38am
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Well, I finally got to take it out on its trial run. No vibrations or leaks! Very smooth ride. I can't thank you guys enough for your help. My friend who is my designated driver for the boat took control, and said he has never felt it run better in the two years I've had it. Pretty amazing that you guys can talk someone, with very little knowledge, through these fixes. Thanks again. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4418&sort=&pagenum=22&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1996 Ski Nautique |