the long road ahead - 67 Nautique resto/mod
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15296
Printed Date: July-01-2024 at 2:59am
Topic: the long road ahead - 67 Nautique resto/mod
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Subject: the long road ahead - 67 Nautique resto/mod
Date Posted: September-14-2009 at 6:16pm
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As I have mentioned a few times in the last year or so, I bought a really rough 1968 (I think) Ski Nautique last winter cause it was close, cheap, and had a flagstaff and good windshield. I am still waiting for CC to get back to me with the born on date and such.
Last week, I finally got it on the water and drove it. Surprisingly, it ran pretty well. In fact, really well. All I had to do was clean up the starter, replace the post on it, and rig up a temporary gas tank.It was really fun, albeit nervewracking. I was constantly hitting the exhaust and engine with my temp gun, to make sure I was cool enough to keep going. I got it up to about 22-24mph and decided that was enough to satisfy me for now. It needs stingers badly, lots of hull work, and all the usual stuff a neglected 41 year old boat needs. I was going to part out and make a flower bed out of it, but my addiction to these boats makes that impossible. I plan on taking a couple years to fix her up really nice. I have lots of ideas about the engine which is a Chrysler 318. at this point i want to pimp out the motor and stroke it to a 349, but that is not set in stone. I am going to repair the hull and more than likely have to paint it. My brother and I pulled the motor yesterday, and I am just going to putz a bit with it, get the floor out, foam removed, and ready to tackle the stringers. I have too much to do in the next couple months to really get started, and tentatively have a stringer job with a friend to do this winter, but he is hinting that he may put that off. Uh oh.... Anyway, here are pics of the maiden voyage last Wednesday. 
Here I am taking a big glug off my beer, because it appears I will not have to paddle in from the middle of the lake. 
Pointing at the fact that the packing nut had spun off and I was taking on water really fast. Glug ! 
I am pretty excited about this one and what it can be someday. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Replies:
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: September-14-2009 at 6:43pm
It also looks like you might be honking the horn!   ------------- |
WakeSlayer wrote:Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: September-14-2009 at 7:27pm
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Who says I wasn't!! ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: September-14-2009 at 7:35pm
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Nice boat. I'd run it the way it is until your ready to dig in to it. ------------- |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: September-14-2009 at 8:00pm
Very cool Mike! We'll be looking forward to what you do with it.  ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: September-15-2009 at 4:23pm
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Awesome boat Mike! You bought it from Iowa? ------------- |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: September-15-2009 at 5:32pm
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Bought in Brainerd, MN last November. It was just sitting next to a guys polebarn for a few years Was registered in IA previously, the tabs expired in 02. Not sure when it moved north.
------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-15-2009 at 5:41pm
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Mike,
Keep us informed (I know you will!!) on every step you take on this boat. Fantastic project!! Do keep it original. I love the old original Nautiques. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: September-15-2009 at 6:19pm
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Congrats Mike, keep us up to speed on the restore. ------------- ...those who have fallen and those who will. |
Posted By: Okie Boarder
Date Posted: September-15-2009 at 7:04pm
Very cool...looking forward to seeing you restore it. High five for driving the boat, while drinking a beer AND standing up. 
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Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: September-15-2009 at 7:15pm
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what happened to tho slogan Don´t drink while driving!! LOL
nice boat!! keep us updated ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: September-15-2009 at 7:35pm
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Sebastian, that only applies to the road and skies here.
And I feared it could have been my last, you cannot see the phone, oars, fire extiguisher, etc. Pete, I will keep it close. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: September-15-2009 at 7:37pm
| Man that is a great looking boat. Well worth fixing. |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: October-19-2009 at 2:04pm
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I have most everything torn out of the boat at this point. Motor, fuel tank, floor, etc. I have the fiberglass floor scored and partially torn out, also. Going to try and get the soaked foam out this week or next.
I have yet to hear back from CC to confirm the year, and original engine, etc. I have a couple questions for guys that are familiar with the Gen1 SN's. They pylon has been welded as JoeinEverywhere noted when he was here. Under the crappy nailed down treated ply floor there was a mounting bracket bolted to both stringers with a ring in the middle. It looks hacked in as square of fiberglass had been cut out of the top of each stringer to mount. It also had an alignment bolt on it so you could, I guess, adjust the angle of the pylon fore or aft. Anyone seen this before? I will try to get a pic put up this week. Secondly, It has a 1st generation morse shifter just like the Mustang had. The hull is built as such that there is nearly no clearance behind this whatsoever. I was able to get it partly disassembled, and still had zero chance of even removing the cables. Upon looking closer it appears that someone had cut the piece out that it mounts to, and slid it in once assembled, and then riveted in the trim. Is this really factory? or did someone do this after the fact? I guess I am actually glad it is like that as there is no way in hell you are adjusting this without removing it. Just seems a bit weird. Again, I will try to get a pic up of this also. Both of these could well have been done after the fact, but I really have no idea. Any one who has one of these boats, I would greatly appreciate confirmation and pics if you have them. Thanks. Mike ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: October-22-2009 at 3:05pm
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The foam is far more soaked than the Mustang ever was. I would say the Mustang's worst part is the best part in this boat. Just gross. I have both sides torn out, and just have the bow left to do. I have 8 bags and upon moving them cause they were leaking all over the place, they are 40+ lbs each. My estimate was a bit low before. Just using a flat bar and 10 in 1 tool. I am going to try the garden type pitchfork with the wide tines for the bow. That may work.
I will not re-foam a boat. I will not re-foam a boat. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-22-2009 at 4:00pm
For some reason the wizard of oz popped in my head. 
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Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: October-22-2009 at 4:03pm
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There are one of those exactly like that here. I know it is down right now with a cracked block.
Tim ------------- |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: October-22-2009 at 4:20pm
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There is damned near enough water in the foam that it could possibly crack the block from the outside. If I wasn't removing the foam I would want to drain and re-soak with AF. The special -100* stuff.
Ryan, I wish I could make the light speed progress you are making. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-22-2009 at 8:22pm
I think your up on me a boat and a half. |
Posted By: Kristof
Date Posted: October-23-2009 at 8:25am
Right... I was still balancing between "to foam or not to foam", but your post here as well as a few others made the balance tip... I will not re-foam a boat. I will not re-foam a boat. I will not re-foam a boat... 
I'll keep saying that to myself untill I'll dig into the floor... ------------- - Gun control means: using BOTH hands! - Money doesn't make one happy, but when it rains cats and dogs, it's still better to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle... |
Posted By: The Lake
Date Posted: October-23-2009 at 9:47am
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Hey Mike, I love the baby blue, are you going to have to do much hull or deck work?
Chuck ------------- Walk on Water www.coldwater.me http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=775&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970 - 69 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-23-2009 at 10:19am
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air floats too ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: October-23-2009 at 1:19pm
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Hey Chuck
Yeah, going to need a lot of work. I am going to end up painting the boat after undercoating. I will keep it the same, minus the side graphics. Just powder blue (sopwith?) and a white stripe. I got the rest of the foam out last night. If my wife wouldn't kill me, I would take the scale out to my shop and weigh my results. Just a disgusting mess. Going to get most of the glass ground out and ready to do the stringers, then let her sit for a bit. I have some stuff to do on the Mustang. Rear main seal, trans seals, engine paint, windshield, etc. As long as I have that all out, I have decided to just get the rest of the boat done, and am going to have her painted over the winter. There are some ugly cosmetic things I just don't want to look at anymore. Then I will get back to the stringers. I will post a couple pics this weekend of the Nautique guts. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: October-23-2009 at 1:30pm
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pics will boost the interest on this thread..LOL ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: nautiless
Date Posted: October-29-2009 at 1:11pm
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Awesome Mike....i'm sure you'll enjoy it as much as the last and deliver just as well. ------------- 1982 SN 2001 RIP (Resto in Progress) http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4400 - Don's Diary |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: October-29-2009 at 2:06pm
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Hey Don,
Haven't seen you around in a while. How's the 82? Mike ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: October-29-2009 at 10:47pm
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Ok, here are a couple pics of what I have questions about.
Pylon mount that was below the floor, and then the Morse shifter mount. Looks like it the pylon may have been torn out and repaired. 
Personally, I do not see how you could install this or make adjustments with what little clearance there is. It is about and inch. It seems like someone put a block in there to make a little more room. 
Lastly, all that nasty foam sheeite bagged and out of here. 
YUK !! ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: October-29-2009 at 11:22pm
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Mike, that cleavis install looks just like the one on our Mustang. ------------- |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: October-30-2009 at 1:53am
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Bruce,
Interesting to hear. Out Mustang is a 68 and has a cup, not a cleavis. Still waiting to hear from CC about the correct year. Reid has a number that is close to this one, and it is a 67, I believe. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: nautiless
Date Posted: October-30-2009 at 4:54am
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Mike:
The 82 is done bar the rubrail and repainting the trailer. I got her fired up on the hose last night for the first time.......shweeet! 
Going out on Sunday for her first lake run. I know i've been slack with updates..apologies. I'll post when it's done and complete...rubrail, trailer included. Had a couple of issues along the way, the firing order on the engine ticket was completely wrong and i had to rebuild the starter. She purrrrs! I'm excited to see your new project develop. Give it horns chap! ------------- 1982 SN 2001 RIP (Resto in Progress) http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4400 - Don's Diary |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-30-2009 at 9:16am
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Mike,
The gunnel below the Morse has defiantly been cut out. A Po must have had fat hands so he would have had a hard time getting to the backside. It's tight!! Double sided tape on the end of a hacksaw blade and the nut stuck to it works wonders to get the nuts started. The angle with the pipe welded to it I'd have to say isn't original. I've installed several pylons in 60's hulls that were dealer options. Some of the floors came from the factory with holes pre drilled in the floor and the vinyl (vinyl wall covering) just covering up the hole. I remember one that I had to drill. The pylon did not bolt to the floor and simply "floated" in the hole. A metal trim ring screwed to the floor around the hole. The bottom held the pylon with ether the clevis or the cup/pin with a bolt through it at the keel. The one install that needed the hole drilled, I think also needed the clevis glassed into the keel. I don't remember the model of the boat but maybe it was one that wasn't normally skier oriented. Others had the clevis at the keel from the factory. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: October-30-2009 at 11:26am
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Glad to hear she fired up Don!! You have been a little absent on your thread. Cannot wait to see.
Pete, the bracket had an adjustment bolt on one side to line it up right. I prefer the sandwiched boards like the Mustang had and have been thinking I would do that again either way. With that Morse control, even non-fat hands didn't want to fit back there. We tried for a couple hours to get it out. Oh well, guess I won't have access problems now. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-30-2009 at 11:48am
| whats the deal with all the steel hardware?Did they come from cc like that? |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: October-30-2009 at 12:59pm
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That was the question. The cross brace seems a bit mickey mouse to me, too. However, it was elaborate enough that I felt it was worth asking if anyone had seen that before. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-30-2009 at 1:17pm
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: November-23-2009 at 11:03pm
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Just a note that I finally heard back from Correct Craft today, and the boat is actually a 1967. Born on date March 11th 1967. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-11-2010 at 2:57pm
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Got my stringers pulled out yesterday and a lot of the glass chiesled away. I broke my 10-in-1 tool that has now done two stringer demolitions. The stringers came out intact with no cutting, so they will be good patterns for the new ones. Ordering fir in the next day or two, epoxy and glass, as well. It is supposed to be in the high 20's this Saturday so I am going to have a grinding party of one, all day. I am going to leave the wood in the transom as I think it is good. Rudder port is coming out. I had planned on doing one at a time, but decided to do what Tim is doing on the BFN and just get them all out and have a fresh canvas. The hull does not flex too much. I will be lifting it off the trailer and supporting it on stands. I measured every possible direction twice and feel confident I will have it back together better than it was. they really did just slam these things down the line and not take much care building them. One secondary is an inch longer than the other, one Primary is as much as half an inch taller in a couple spots in front of the motor.
My camera is on the blink but my brother took some pics that I will get later this week. I plan to have the stringers completely installed in the next few weeks before the Mustang comes back home. I will make the floor and screw it down in the Spring,and start working on the interior a bit, and the motor. I will probably send it out for the body stuff late next summer. I do not think I can permanently install the floor until after the body work is done because of the way the wood spray rails need to be installed. They are semi alternately bolted from the outside, and screwed from the inside. No one has been into the floor before so it had to come that way from the factory. As crazy as it sounds, I miss the smell of epoxy. My goal is water ready by June of 2011. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-11-2010 at 3:23pm
Mike, sounds like youre in denial! I wont tell you that you need to replace it, but I guarantee you its not as good as you think! If you decide to cut it out, $5 says its wet. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-11-2010 at 5:01pm
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Mike,
As long as you'r in there, I really think you should dig out that wood in the transom!! Remember the aft lifting ring goes to it. We've seen some horrible pictures/examples of not so good wood. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-11-2010 at 5:36pm
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We'll see. I will at least do the hole saw move and see what it looks like in there. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-11-2010 at 6:30pm
Make sure the pilot drill in the hole saw isn't extended too far.
Reminds me of the member who several years ago wanted to drill some drain holes in the bottom of his battery box. He didn't realize the bottom of the battery box was the hull of the boat! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-11-2010 at 6:39pm
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Ha. Positive. Had already thought of that. I remember somethin about that, also. Not too dissimilar from the guy that replaced the rotted old lag bolts in his trailer bunks. Apparently after completion of the task, his boat would not back off the trailer. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: January-11-2010 at 6:46pm
| Glad to see someones getting work done.Its so cold here I can't do anything. |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-11-2010 at 7:24pm
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That is why i am not farther along. I have to wait til it is tolerable out to grind.
Edit: By tolerable, I mean above 20* on a Saturday. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-12-2010 at 2:35pm
| Have you ordered your stringers? Can you point me to an order list for a total restring and floor? Have seen detailed glass order but not for the douglas fir. |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-12-2010 at 6:22pm
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Just getting it from a local lumber yard. They got me what I needed for the Mustang last year. Have not heard back from them yet. They have some supplier in Minneapolis they get stock like that from.
I am ordering: 2x8 x 14ft qty = 2 1x6 x 12ft qty = 3 I am getting all my epoxy and glass supplies from the guy painting the Mustang. One stop shop. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-13-2010 at 8:47pm
| Great thanks for that info. Now I can at least start shopping around. |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-15-2010 at 12:33pm
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Got all the underwater hardware removed last night. The rudder port was a challenge to get out. Rest was easy. My skeg has taken a couple shots and needs to be straightened. Strut looks good as that was replaced at some point. I got the old bent one with the boat.
Got my fir ordered yesterday. For the primaries, i am getting 8/4 x 8 x 13ft. The yard where I am getting the lumber is going to plane it down to size for me. I have a question about cutting out the stringers. Neither mains nor secondaries are the same dimensions. they came out completely intact so I can either duplicate them as they are, or make each set match the larger of the two and then size them to my measurements once fit in the boat. Seeking opinions on what to do there. With an unseasonably mild forecast of 33* and mostly sunny tomorrow, I will be spending the day with my grinder and get the hull all cleaned up. I may end up heading to the truck stop to flush all the nasty out of it afterwards. Easier than digging out hoses and doing it at home. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-15-2010 at 12:50pm
Mike, I'd have to say it was Billy Bob at the band saw in the wood shop not keeping his eye on the pencil line. Ether that or he was doing a hull correction because Joe Bob in the mold shop goofed up the mold! I'd sure cut to the larger size, get them in the hull and start doing some measuring. It would be interesting to find out what's off with the hull!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-15-2010 at 1:01pm
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One of the secondaries is slightly taller for about two feet, and is longer by and inch plus. The starboard primary is up to 7/16" taller for about four feet starting at approximately in between the mounts. They even out perfectly in at the front, and about 5-6 feet from the rear. Just sloppy is my guess. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-15-2010 at 1:22pm
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Mike, these boats were not precision built! I think as long as you get pretty close on the motor mount dimensions (height off hull, distance from the shaft log) so you can align it, you'll be just fine. Like Pete said, Id build to the larger one and shape from there. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-15-2010 at 1:25pm
As Alan would say, they mustn't have sharpened up their "finishing hatchets" in a couple of days! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-15-2010 at 1:45pm
I have all those measurements, and a million photos. I figure I don't really have a choice, anyway. She will go back together a hell of a lot better than she was. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: January-15-2010 at 4:05pm
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It's always easier to cut more than less! Was the floor skewed to one side? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-15-2010 at 6:16pm
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Not obviously skewed, it had a treated ply floor screwed and nailed down over the foam. Motor was way misaligned from the mounts starting to tear out. I did not give it the marble test. Took it for what it was. This boat was supposed to become a planter, and the more I looked at it, the more I liked it and wanted to resurrect her.
It will be fine. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-16-2010 at 9:46pm
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Ground out. And dead tired. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-18-2010 at 7:49pm
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Hull is ground out. Took 4 solid hours. For the life of me I cannot get it as pretty as I have seen photos of on this site. I ground from 4 inches outside the outer stringer, all the way across to the other side. The bilge was gelled, that was a biatch to get off. I guess I could have ground more but did not want to remove any excess material from the structure. I used my trusty diamond wheel, and two 40 grit flap disks. What a mess. I love my respirator, goggles, and tyvek suit.
I left a ~1" lip of the old primary stringer channel and beveled it off for a smooth edge for filletting after the new stringers are installed. I ground two drain channels on each side for water relief from outbboard of the stringers. I took the top glass cap off the rudder port and to my surprise the wood is in really good shape. Still rich colored and solid. In doing so I ended up taking the top layer of the ply off and it was a total bastard to chisel out flat. I am going to soak this in CPES a couple times, peanut butter sandwich a piece on top, and cap it back off. Even the port hole was solid with a pick in the sides of it. The boat at some point took a fairly hard shot on the strut. There is a good sized crack on the inside that was bondoed over. This will be filled and I will lay a couple layers of heavy mat over and re-drill the holes. I was going to drill into the transom but found no voids and am going to leave it for now. I can always go back and do that later. My goal at the moment is to get the stringers done and get it out of my shop. My layup plan is: bed the stringers and verify level, and measurements. using 8.7 oz tape 2", then 4", then 6" on primaries the 17 oz Knytex biaxial hull to hull over the stringer. (2x ?) bed secondaries, and simply tape once using 4" ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-18-2010 at 8:04pm
Mike, I dont think thats enough glass. I'm now planning to somewhat mirror Joe's schedule on the mains of the BFN with 2"x2, 4"x2, 8"x2. Instead of following that up with mat though, Im going to do Biax. At least one layer up each side, and then maybe one over the top to fully encapsulate them. On the secondaries, I wouldnt go any less than 3 layers of glass. Right now Im toying with the idea of doing 2"/4"/8" (1x each) followed by biax (and not wrapping the top). In the past, Ive done 3 layers of alternating mat and cloth, and that seemed to build a decent thickness. 1 layer just aint gonna cut it, especially if its cloth- that doesnt hold much resin at all. Maybe Im crazy, but I would want all the old wood out of the boat if I were digging in that far... just for peace of mind! Our rudder port wasnt terrible either, but the transom glass was wet throughout and mushy in spots. Just FYI! ------------- |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 3:50am
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Alright, alright. I took out the rudder port entirely. It was half gone anyway.
We got all four stringers cut out, shaped, notched, and ready to dry fit tomorrow. My brother used an electric planar with an angle guide to shape the bottoms of the stringers. That took less time cutting the boards to height with a jigsaw. We have the hull litfed and level. We are going to set the old stringers in to confirm measurements. Dry fit stringers, and then start CPESing them. Hope to have the two primaries bedded by the end of the week, because I am going out of town. Not sure if we will be able to do that or not... One unfortunate observation I made was while cleaning the last bits of foam out around the exhaust I noticed a cavernous void on the inside glass lip of the starboard exhaust thru-hull. The wood is wasted to mush. All the way aruond the pipe. It is done for. I assume the other side is as well. Both will be coming out tomorrow as there is no way around this. I am still resisting the main transom board but will try to do a couple test holes tomorrow. If it is bad, it is coming out. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 1:33pm
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use a hand power planer if so, dont let it scare you when you get close to the glass ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 1:37pm
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What would you replace the exhaust boards with? I really don't feel like paying for a big chunk of fir for two little squares. Is this foolish or is it ok to use some pine or whatever I have laying around.
I do have a fir 1x6, is this going to give me enough material with a 3 inch hole through the middle of it? It doesn't seem like there would be too much stress here. I believe the rudder port piece is 3/8" plywood. Tim, wanna send me a couple small squares of coosa? ha ha. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 2:52pm
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I am feeling you on that. I do not want to put ply back in there! But I sure as siht do not want to buy a $250 sheet of coosa! ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 3:04pm
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Keegan,
Most home centers will have small 2'x2' sheets of exterior ply. I suggest it because ply will give you the support needed in both directions due to it's alternating grain in each layer. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 3:25pm
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Thanks pete. Is it true that the only difference between marine grade ply and external is the amount of voids between layers? ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 3:26pm
Yes ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 3:51pm
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I have some nice chunks of 3/4 exterior left. Any reason to not just use that on my exhaust and rudder? Neither were that thick, but does it matter?
Got the exhaust mounts out. One was really bad, the second wasn't rotted nearly as bad, but still wet and delaminating. I drilled an inspection hole in my transom and am happy to say it bright yellow dry wood. I did one hole in the center. I may do a top and bottom just to be positive. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 3:58pm
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Mike, by '88 all of that was 3/4...in my boat anyway.
I gotta throw this in for anyone in the neighborhood; Sweetwater has some sweet fir ply that is the nicest ply I've worked with short of cabinet grade. It has very few voids, it's sanded nicely, and it drinks the CPES! ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 4:12pm
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What size chunks of coosa you looking for Mike dimensions and thickness. I probably have scraps. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-25-2010 at 2:49pm
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Joe, I measured the voids and they are roughly 6.75 x 8.75, I am figuring 3/4. I do have ply I can use, no big deal.
We got the stringers dry fit yesterday. After having the boat jacked up, and replacing the old stringers, there was a significant gap under the front half of the stringers. We compared new and old and they were about as exact as they could be. After going back and forth a couple times, we decided to drop the boat, and lift it slightly from the keel at about where the skeg is. This gave us a much better fit. There are still voids, but what I would expect now. We confirmed all of our measurements, and I like how they fit. I got 3 coats of CPES on them. After the first coat I noticed we had failed to create drain channels, and to radius the tops of the primaries. Ooops. Will do that tonight and get more CPES on those spots. I have not drilled the hole for my cable block post yet, either, but as I had to move the one on the Mustang due to the newer style cable. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-29-2010 at 3:11am
|
Got the port main stringer bedded tonight. Went really good. I put down a layer of thin consistency epoxy, and strip of wetted glass, and then peanut butter on top of that. Set the stringer in, centered and pushed down with moderate pressure until it sat down like when dry fit. I smoothed the beveled channel as well as I could with the excess. There just was not enough mixed up to do a proper fillet, but I will go back and do nicer ones after I get the second stringer set Monday. If I was not going out of town, I would get all the stringers in and a good deal of layup done this weekend.
Here are a couple pics I took earlier this week. 
------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-29-2010 at 3:37am
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looking good! I am watching your progress. Just got my motor out today. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-29-2010 at 9:46am
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Mike,
Since you're using West, make sure you wipe down the cured resin with a damp cloth to remove the amine blush. You only need to do it if the epoxy has cured. If you go with next layers after the previous ones have just "kicked", then it's not needed. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: January-29-2010 at 10:41am
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Looks great Mike. We'll be doing the same thing come spring on the Barracuda and will be using this as a guide. I'm really interested in how you are going to apply the different types of cloth and exactly what they are. ------------- |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-29-2010 at 12:55pm
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Pete, I never found any blush last year when I did the Mustang. I will keep my eyes out and will wipe down anything I am recoating anyway, just in case. I have read about it before, and kind of thought that my shop conditions and the West help minimize if not eliminate any blushing. I could be wrong. I will not be in my shop til Monday, so will look again then.
As far as the layup, I am taking and mixing everything I have read and direct advice, together. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: January-29-2010 at 2:33pm
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Mike/Pete, can you guys explain amine blush a little more? I've heard the term before and knew to wipe everything down if it cured but still a little lost as to what it actually is... ------------- |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-29-2010 at 2:50pm
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Apparently it is a waxy sort of buildup that comes to the surface after the eopxy has cured. I constantly checked for it last year and never ran across it. It will prevent a good bond if not removed. Epoxy, primer, paint, etc will not stick properly. I believe just soap and water will remove it. Pete will better explain it than I. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-29-2010 at 3:01pm
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Mike's right on for the description. I don't know exactly what it is but it's like a by product of the cure. Some brands of epoxy don't do it so there must be a chemistry difference. It is water soluble so a solvet wipe won't cut it. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-29-2010 at 3:18pm
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I am curious to what made you recommend watching out for it since I am using West Systems. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: skfitz
Date Posted: January-29-2010 at 8:06pm
ammonium carbamate It's made when CO2, the nitrogen compounds released by the resin, and atmospheric moisture react on the surface of your epoxy job. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-29-2010 at 8:38pm
Mike, Only because the Gougeon boys have always made a point to explain the blush in all their publication. However now, who knows since they sold the company and the formula may have changed. Mas on the other hand makes a big point about their epoxy not having the blush. I don't know about supplies more oriented towards commercial like U.S. Composites. I've never seen much printed material from them. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: February-05-2010 at 5:32pm
|
We got the starboard main bedded last night. Filleted this morning. All three installed stringers are level, square and right where I want them. Have the port main filleted, and the port secondary's first two strips of glass down. I hope to get a good amount of glass on the mains tomorrow during the day, and install the last secondary tomorrow evening. Then just layer after layer after layer of glass. I need to coat the exhaust and rudder boards once more, and bed those in. Hopefully I can get to that tomorrow also. I am trying like mad to get the layup done before I head to St John. We'll see...
I swear I will get pics up as soon as my bro gets me all the ones he has taken. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: February-05-2010 at 6:00pm
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Sounds like you are moving along really well. Post those Pics! Its raining like crazy here, so I am not going to get much done this weekend. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: February-05-2010 at 6:08pm
I think I am going to run into this problem. PO replaced steering cable 3 years ago and he said it turns to one side sharper than on the other because of the new cable. He told me this after I had the thing apart already so I am not sure how significant the difference is. Ahhhh something new to research here on CCF. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: February-05-2010 at 6:16pm
|
Once I re-attached the cable in our Mustang, it was really obvious that the cable could not be adjusted into what makes it an even swing position. The adjustment tube on the new cables is a different length if I recall correctly. I believe both the Ponyboat and the SN had original cables when I got them.
Just install that or at least test install before you put your floor down. Tim also suggested to someone using a bracket to install onto the strut bolts. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-05-2010 at 6:59pm
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Keegan,
To clarify what Mike has mentioned, the tube is adjustable in the block. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: February-07-2010 at 1:37pm
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Last stringer is beeded and filleted. Got 3 layers of glass on the mains, 2" 2" 4". I am thinking about doing an 8" then back to 4", then another 8". Installed my rudder box board, also. Today I will get the gas tank mount boards added to the rear of the mains and a bunch more layup done. I would like to get the secondaries finished with the tape part of the layup, we'll see about the mains. I need to also install my exhaust boards before I get too far. I think I am going to peanut butter them in and then use a board on the outside to suck it on to the boat. 3-4 screws from the out side pulling the inner board against the hull. I am not drilling until later.
------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: February-08-2010 at 12:35pm
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I am going to run out of epoxy.
I got several layers of tape on the mains and the newest secondary. I installed the risers for the gas tank also. Next I plan to install the exhaust and get some glass on those and the rudder plate. After that I will get the last couple layers of tape on the mains and start on the biax. My stupid computer at home will not allow me to post pics for some reason, despite telling to allow scripted windows. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: February-08-2010 at 12:58pm
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Mike, glad to see someone is making progress in the cold weather. If you want, send me the pics and I'll see if I can get em posted!
cmars@baproductionsinc.com ------------- |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: February-08-2010 at 1:25pm
Mike's Pics.....Looking good man! ------------- |
Posted By: The Lake
Date Posted: February-08-2010 at 1:38pm
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Mike, really nice work!
Are you going to use the same motor mounts . . . using lags into the stringers, or are you considering some kind of cradle? Chuck ------------- Walk on Water www.coldwater.me http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=775&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970 - 69 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: February-08-2010 at 4:49pm
|
Hey Chuck.
I am going to use the original mounts. I had considered a cradle, and I guess if I get more creative and ambitious, I could still do it. Probably will leave it. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-08-2010 at 4:56pm
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Mike,
Nothing wrong with keeping it original! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: The Lake
Date Posted: February-08-2010 at 5:17pm
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Surprised to hear you say that Pete. I know that my ski pole has a bit of slop in it, not too bad . . . if I ever come to the day of redoing stringers having a cradle for the engine that would also support the pylon would be something to consider.
Mike does your pylon sit go through a 2x6 that is notched into the main stringers? Chuck ------------- Walk on Water www.coldwater.me http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=775&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970 - 69 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: February-08-2010 at 5:27pm
|
Pete, in honor of your credo, I am going to keep it nearly original. The only real mods are going to be the engine, but I am still using the 318 that came in the boat. Non-original serial number according to Correct Craft so, I don't really mind pigging it out.
Chuck, no, if you go back to the beginning of this thread, there are pics of the goofy pylon mount. It is angle iron and a tube (hole) and it was bolted to the stringers. I think it is mickey mouse. I plan on installing a 2x6 like you are refering to and was also in our Mustang. Between the clevis at the bottom, the 2x6, and the planned 3/4 floor, I should have decent support. My pylon is sleeved in the middle, as though maybe it was broken, or bent. which I do not like, however I do want to be able to hang a boom on the boat so I may just use it anyway and call it close to original in that case. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-08-2010 at 5:29pm
So youre regelling? Nice! ------------- |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: February-08-2010 at 5:35pm
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Ha ha. That one is still up for debate. However, it is extremely likely at this point. probaby 80/20 in favor of.
The Ponyboat is getting painted as we speak, but this one will need so much body work that I may as well gel. As near as I can tell it would cost nearly the same. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: February-08-2010 at 10:45pm
Gel!! What color are you going with? ------------- |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: February-08-2010 at 11:35pm
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Regardless of which route I go it will be done back to the same color blue, with just a small white stripe. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: February-09-2010 at 12:01am
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You might have mentioned it before and I missed it but on page 3, the newest pictures of the stringers- It looks like you are capping right over top of the notches for the cross members and then cutting them back out after the resin has cured? Are you then going to go another layer over top of the cross member to tie it all together? Those cross members were amongst the most rotten areas of my boat so I am curious what other people are doing. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-09-2010 at 10:26am
Keegan, That intersection is a real tough one. I suggest pre glassing the cross members as well as the stringer notches. (make the notch wider and deeper to accommodate to thickness of the glass) Then set the cross member down into the knotch with thickened epoxy. One short strip of glass tape over the top of the stringer covering the top end and end of the cross member. Then another small strip at the cross member bottom to the side of the stringer. BTW, Pre glassing the cross member really helps because you don't need to work on bottom upside down!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |