Winterization Anomolies
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15348
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 1:00am
Topic: Winterization Anomolies
Posted By: skutsch
Subject: Winterization Anomolies
Date Posted: September-21-2009 at 12:48pm
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Started thinking about winterizing, not going to start yet, cause I want to get a few more pulls in but have started thinking about it. So I have always winterized my Dad's 64 Nautique. That one is really straight forward, change the oil drain the block (using the installed by correct craft petcocks) and thats basically it.
So the 98 Sport appears to be a radically different beast. I went through and read all the "Winterization" threads and then started referencing the Pictures TR Benj posted (Thanks those were awesome), and I came up with a few anomolies. First off the Manifold drain plugs were pretty straightforward, bigger then I expected but still easy to find. Port Manifold Drain plug 
Starboard Manifold Drain plug 
My Block drains appear to being used for the shower Port Engine Block Drain 
And maybe the heater??? Starboard Engine Block Drain 
And then the really wierd thing was this unknown hose that is tied up at the top of the front of the engine that looks like this: 
And terminates at what I believe to be the bottom of the transmission 
So I am wondering, has this engine been set up with the hose mentioned above to be purged with air? If you remove the plug on the hose and blow compressed air through would that purge the system of water? Any thoughts on what I have here? ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Replies:
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: September-21-2009 at 1:08pm
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The drains are as you labeled. Remove and drain them, including shower hoses. You will have a small plug on the bottom of your raw water pump, also.
If you have a heater, you need to remove those hoses from your a)intake, and b)circulating pump, and blow low psi compressed air through them both directions to purge the water from the heater. The hose that is tied up is for your oil drain. You run that out your plug in the hull to an drain pan. If your engine is up to temp this will drain it pretty well. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-21-2009 at 1:18pm
But not when the boat is in the water!! LOL!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
WakeSlayer wrote:Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: September-21-2009 at 1:55pm
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Mike;
Now I am a little embarrassed, I should have been able to put that together, obviously thats the oil pan... With the 64 we always pump the oil out, so the concept of an "oil drain" in a boat is foreign to me even though I know it is there, I guess I won't need a pump for the 98... I guess with the discussion in the Winterization thread about draining the Transmission cooler, I made a leap... Pete, thats pretty funny! Definitely gave me a chuckle. Thanks Guys! ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: September-21-2009 at 2:05pm
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My drain kit is far too slow in my SAN, I just pump it out, too. It would take a month to drain it. I gave up.
------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-21-2009 at 2:15pm
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Mike, if the oil is warm and you pull off the oil fill cap, it drains about 20x faster. This trick works great on my '90 at least- otherwise I would let it drain overnight. ------------- |
Posted By: Munday
Date Posted: September-21-2009 at 3:18pm
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I made up brass fitting from hose bib to I believe 3/8ths pipe.This I connect to a Little Giant impellor pump.Drains oil in about 3 minutes.
Munday ------------- If the only tool you have is a hammer,everything starts to look like a nail. |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: September-21-2009 at 5:34pm
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Tim, I always used the drain kit on my 90 and my 92. For some reason, the Python just doesn't want to give up the oil. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-21-2009 at 7:30pm
You removed the oil fill cap while draining? ------------- |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: September-21-2009 at 7:35pm
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Absolutely. Both of them. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: lonestar
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 12:06am
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Why do you drain the oil for winterizing ? ------------- lonestar |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 12:13am
Oh, I can see where this has gotten a little misleading... Of course we don't just drain the oil to winterize it  , but we do "change" the oil before putting it away. The first step is to drain the old. Now I suppose that will open up the debate on whether it is best to change before winter or at the start of summer... ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 12:25am
Probably not! Its commonly agreed upon that it should be changed at the end of the season so that the block doesnt sit all winter with the old, acidic oil in it. ------------- |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 2:51am
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We've always changed the oil before and then again in the spring after de-winterization.
Does it cause any problems leaving the boat open over night? Would the open air in the oil chamber cause any corosion problems? ------------- |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 7:01pm
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Chris,
You change the new oil in the spring with no hours since? ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 9:38pm
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I read where motor oil, when stored very cold, can form wax deposits, or something to that effect. So changing it again in the spring might have some merit, but it seems like a waste of resources to me. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: lonestar
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 9:40pm
------------- lonestar |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: September-23-2009 at 1:10am
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I always figured that was a marketing ploy to sell more oil. I have never practiced that. I change my oil at the end of every season. I average 50-60 hours each at this point. There are smarter guys here than myself with respect to engines and oil, etc. But at ~$6 a quart, I am not changing out my boats oil with 10 minutes of run time on them.
------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: September-23-2009 at 3:58am
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Mike-
We always get it out on the lake, make sure everything is going well then change it again. My grandfather was a mechanic and helped rebuild my dad's 74 skier with him. It was what he recomended and we've done it since. I figure it can't hurt and with the high hours our 88 had we took every precaution! ------------- |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: September-23-2009 at 3:38pm
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Totally understand, if it works, don't change anything. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: 92ccc
Date Posted: September-23-2009 at 5:27pm
| The three month interval comes from the automotive industry with the reasoning that if it takes you more than three months to accumulate 3000 miles you are a short trip driver and should change oil by time instead of miles.This defenitely applies to carbureted engines more so than fuel injected engines due to the choke and running richer on cold start ups. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-23-2009 at 11:04pm
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I bet motor oil distributors store oil in cold warehouses for more than 3 months, just a hunch. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: LaurelLakeSkier
Date Posted: September-23-2009 at 11:24pm
No this will not create any problems. The crankcase is always vented to the atmosphere, that is part of the job of the PCV system along with venting blow-by gases back to the combustion chamber. Without the ventilation, condensation would build up in the crankcase as would pressure from blow-by past the rings. |
Posted By: lonestar
Date Posted: September-24-2009 at 12:07am
------------- lonestar |
Posted By: lonestar
Date Posted: September-24-2009 at 12:09am
Good info, for years Ive wondered what it was about exposing oil to aironce it left the can that made it go bad. ------------- lonestar |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-24-2009 at 12:05pm
Wakeslayer was responding to the other Chris (34 Storm) who changes in both the fall and again in the spring (0 hrs of run time). Like I said, you only need to change in the fall:
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