Replacing bunks on a #2 trailer
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15360
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 12:42am
Topic: Replacing bunks on a #2 trailer
Posted By: Riley
Subject: Replacing bunks on a #2 trailer
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 12:55pm
| I need to replace the bunks on my trailer. There's not much left of mine to go on. It appears I need 2x3 PT with a bevel on it. Is 45 degrees a good enough bevel or too much? It seems I'll need to drill all new holes through the wood into the trailer. I'm planning on using carriage bolts that are counter sunk. I want to get the materials ahead of time and have it be a simple project so any tips would be appreciated. |
Replies:
Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 1:04pm
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Just walked out to the neighbors and yes that looks about right. He said he just used a (plain or plane) to take down that one side. ------------- ...those who have fallen and those who will. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 1:05pm
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Bruce,
The 2x3 with the 45 is good. The hull bottom will just touch at different spots - more on the bevel forward and then more on the flat as you go aft. I suggest not using carriage bolts because of their tendency to spin in the wood especially when the time comes again when replacement is needed. I've always (and just did the bunks on my X trailer) used hex heads set into a counter bore in the 2x. Double nut or Nyloc nut the bolts. The wood will swell and shrink as it gets wet or dries and the bolts will loosen with just lock washers. Due to my X trailer having running boards on the outside close to the bunks, I stapled the carpet onto the outer ege first, bolted the wood down and then finished the stapling of the carpet on the trailer. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 1:16pm
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SN, A plane is a great idea. I was figuring I had to find someone with a table saw.
Pete, hex bolts is a good idea. I see what you mean on the bevel. Hopefully, there's enough left of mine so I can copy the bevel. I had brought new carpet with me to Lake George to change, only to be disappointed at what was underneath the shag carpeting that is on there now. Pete, we've got about 13 hours on that 312 and it runs good. We're going to winterize it this weekend and declare victory for 2009. (knock on wood). ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 1:23pm
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Bruce,
Find someone with a table saw. It will take you 5 minutes including the set up. You'll be working on it forever with a plane (unless you have a powered hand plane!!!) plus keeping the bevel the same will take some manual dexterity skills we don't use often. It would even be tough for Greg!! Of course he'd propbably make some kind of fixture for it!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 4:35pm
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Pete, with all due respect I think that 45 degrees is way too much. When I did my 81 I bet there was no more than 10-15 degrees angle on the bunks all the way to the front. The majority of the boat rests on the rear 2/3 of the bunks so the bevel is not that important.
I used carriage bolts on mine so I could completely wrap the bunks in carpet and fasten it from the underside of the bunks, no exposed fasteners at all. I wanted to wrap the carpet under the bunk so the carpet would act as a pad to absorb a little vibration while traveling to try to prevent the fiberglass trailer pan from cracking under stress. To keep the carriage bolts from turning I drilled the pilot holes undersized and droved the bolts in tight. Doing that though I wasn't able to use nylok nuts so I went with lock washers and regular nuts. haven't seen any back off yet but I won't be surprised when they do. personal preference I think but I just didn't want to see any staples on the sides of the bunks which is what usually happens when someone replaces carpet only.  ------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 5:00pm
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Bruce,
Alan's got a good point regarding the 45* angle. Just take a look at how the boat sits on the old bunks and adjust the angle if needed. My bunks are actually tapered on the bottom so the angle is created by the wood sitting on top of the trailers frame. Under the engine where support is most important, the full top surface of the bunk comes in contact with the hull. Alan, Good idea to compress the carpet between the wood bunk and the trailer frame. I like that! In my case, all the carpet is stapled to the bottom side of the wood bunk so no staples on the sides. I also use a full 2x4 so there's plenty of wood overhanging the trailer frame to staple to. I do have a pneumatic narrow crown and use 5/8" stainless staples. Bruce, do use some HD staples! A added touch is I run the router with a 1/2" radius bit around all the edges. It makes it easier to get the carpet around plus eases the sharper corners. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: snipe
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 6:32pm
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Greetings all....I'm new here. I did meet Pete he knows his stuff.
For what it is worth; I just redid my '80 trailer also. The old bunks were still in tact; so I was able to copy the original. There is actually a radius on the bunk rail. (I used 2.50 in) I believe they did that to compensate for the transition between all the contact points on the hull. I used carrige bolts too and counterbored them below the surface, then filled the holes over with silicone caulk as not to trap water for any length of time to encourage the start of decay. To keep the bolts from turning, just hacksaw a slot in the heads. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=4810" rel="nofollow - 80 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 9:35pm
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No insult intended for Grand Poobahs, but trapped carpet sounds like a rust problem down the road . . . ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 11:07pm
Good point in Bruce's case where he can wrap the carpet under but on mine if you take a look at the picture the only place to staple would be the sides and that would look lousy. Certainly not a finished enough look for me. My carpet also sits on fiberglass not the frame rail and I used pressure treated wood and stainless staples and hardware to prolong the life of it all. It will probably last until the frame needs paint again. ------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails |
SNobsessed wrote:Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 11:26pm
It is a problem. Proper coatings on your trailer is what it takes to fix the problem though. I'm with '81 on his method. I suggest drilling the holes that your 1/4" bolts go though on the trailer to 5/16" so they do not mess up the threads when you install the bunks. When I re-installed mine I painted the holes just before I put the bunks on so the screws would not rub the paint off when installed. Tim ------------- |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 11:28pm
I agree, when I redid my trailer, it had very heavy pitting under those boards. There was not even any carpet under mine. My wood was in great shape so I reused it. The carpet pyle was deep enough to pretty much hide my monel staples. In my effort to keep it original I replaced the carriage bolts with the same  I'm sure the wood they sell today,which is still growing, can't hold a candle to the wood used on mine, there wasn't a knot in them.------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 11:31pm
Was your bottom cleaned with acid to get the gunk off? Tim ------------- |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 11:46pm
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This is all helpful information. It sounds like I should rip the boards wider than what I have now so I can staple underneath on the overhangs. Maybe 1/2" on each side? Right now the boards are about as wide as the metal beams on the trailer. It appears that the bevels are the same all the way down the length of the boards. I'll know for sure when I take the boat and carpet off the trailer. I'm planning on using PT as long as I can find some clear pieces. ------------- |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-22-2009 at 11:55pm
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Tim I'm not sure, I didn't and by the looks of it when I got it I don't think anyone even cleaned it period.But I do think it was outside alot.
Bruce if you'd like,I'd pull a couple of staples and take a picture of an end, I think it's a 2x4  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: September-23-2009 at 12:05am
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Gary, thanks, but don't do that. I'll start with a 2x4 and see how it looks. That's an awful picture of your boat. ------------- |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-23-2009 at 12:14am
Here you go Bruce,on the 2nd picture you can see how I stapled my lighting wires to the bunks
 ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: September-23-2009 at 12:27am
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Gary, thanks, great pic. Looks like a 2x4 to me. ------------- |