New ’83 2001 - Questions
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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1553
Printed Date: April-18-2025 at 8:42pm
Topic: New ’83 2001 - Questions
Posted By: billgatesceo
Subject: New ’83 2001 - Questions
Date Posted: April-28-2005 at 2:21am
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So the sale and hunt is over. Last night I sold my '77 Skier, and today I picked up an '83 Ski. Boy, was today crazy. We get there and check it over...better condition than my '77 (the hull at least). The carpet was worse, but I like working on stuff anywayz. We hooked the fake-a-lake up, and it fired right up the first time. I was like, good, I'll take it. Stringers, floor, was good, and everything else seemed fine.
So we get to the lake today for the first outing, down the boat ramp into the water...freakin battery was too dead to start. So we pull it out, find some cables, charge it for about 5 minutes. Starts right up, let it idle for about 5 seconds. Disconnect cables, try to start it once more, it fires...off down the ramp we go. Get into the water, you guessed it...battery too dead to start. So we wait for my buddy's dad to bring some more cables, since the other guy left. We fire it up on the ramp...dunked it in the water...let it warm up and took off. I had to do a drive-by the dock so my buddy could hop in the boat, b/c it seemed that it would die if I put it in idle. So we both get a set in..never took it out of gear, that was fun trying to catch the boat after your set, and head back to the dock. Once there, I got brave and tried to take it out of gear....died...didn't start back up. So we got the rope out and pulled her up on the trailer.. Mind you there is a bar overlooking the ramp and lake. Oh well, we saw a guy in a tige that couldn't get it on the trailer earlier, so not so bad. Question: 1) Battery is probably bad, and that is why it wouldn't idle very low without dying. The voltage guage read right at 12V while under power. 2) Or, idle set too low. 3) Or, alternater is weak. Overall, I am very happy. Eventhough it doesn't run out-the-box like my old one did, I think with a little tinkering, it will be just fine. The room in this thing is like twice the size of the Skier. Any thought would be helpful. Thanks, Brandon |
Replies:
Posted By: Texas88
Date Posted: April-28-2005 at 2:35am
First use a meter to check how many volts the alt is putting out, but sounds like a bad battery if it can't keep a charge for 5 min. Remember that repairs are always cheaper than payments.
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Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: April-28-2005 at 12:08pm
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Thanks....I will check the alternator today. So it should be at or above 12V right?
Is there any quick fix to bandage up a crack in the rubber exhause hose coming off the exhaust manifolds. There is a split along one of the ribs that spews water. I need a quick fix before I can get some new hose in there. I guessing that I need to replace the whole hose all the way to the transom. |
Posted By: Texas88
Date Posted: April-28-2005 at 1:05pm
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I'd say at least 13 to 13.5 volts, 12 would probably not do it.
About the leak in the hose ... Duck Tape, lots of it and just watch your water intake into the bilge. Make sure the bilge pump works because it will leak even with the tape. You may only have to replace the curved part between the exaust manifold and the muffler. The straight part after the muffler has very little stress but check for leaks, rot and rust. Since you are digging into it you may as well replace it all, that way you know it will be good for a long time. ------------- Bryan A. Texas 88 Ski |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: April-28-2005 at 5:19pm
| Yeah I figured it should probably be above 12V. The guage (not very accurate) was only reading 12V. I will hook up my DMM to check it accurately. So how long is the hose to the muffler. I really can't tell since there is some nasty astro-turf crap wrapped around it. |
Posted By: jameski
Date Posted: April-28-2005 at 5:39pm
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The hose length varies; you'll have to measure it to be sure. On mine, with my original mufflers, it was 21.5" from manifold to muffler, 14" from muffler to thru-hull pipe. the replacement mufflers were longer, so I used less hose total, but I also realized that I could locate the mufflers as close to, or as far away from the transom as I wanted. So, you really should measure. BTW, my engine is the Commander, and I'm sure it would be different for other manifolds. Be sure to get the flexible hose, not the straight (unless you have the mufflers with elbows). ------------- current boat http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1977 - 94 Sport Nautique previous boat http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=601 - 78 Martinique |
Posted By: scomer
Date Posted: April-28-2005 at 5:56pm
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billgatesceo,
That "astro-turf" was installed from the factory to minimze vibration and to protect the muffler and the bottom of the hull from rubbing together and wearing a hole in one or the other. I would recommend putting something back in there to serve the same purpose, possibly foam or rubber, something that doesn't catch all the scum from the bottom of the boat like the carpet does. That was the cheapest for the factory to use since there was an abundtant supply of scrap pieces. ------------- SCOMER |
Posted By: 80nauts
Date Posted: April-28-2005 at 6:07pm
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Cut small sections of rubberhosing like gasline and then put on of the sections on the bottom of the muffler between the boat. Next put the sections on the sides of the mufflers, And do that a few other places on each muffler and it will make a U shape around the muffler. It works good.
Did you clean the terminals really well. Also check battery cable ends for corrosion. Use lots of baking soda W/water. |
Posted By: Bob's2001
Date Posted: April-28-2005 at 6:23pm
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If it dies at idle the idle speed is likely set too low. It should idle at about 650 to 700 rpm. ------------- Bob Ed 83 2001 |
Posted By: billgatesceo
Date Posted: April-29-2005 at 1:43am
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I put it on charge all day. Tried to start it up, was a little tempermental, but finally fired, after about 10seconds of turning over. I checked the voltage at the battery at idle and it was: 12.67VDC. At about 2000rpm it was: 12.98VDC. Would this indicate a weak alternator? I would think that I should see at least 13+ volts.
It seems a little sluggish on acceleration (noticed it first when boarding, you can slam on the gas..it takes off, and then hesitates for a split about halfway through the rpm range. I was thinking dirty fuel filter or something. BTW, it still has a points/distributor. My '77 had electric ignition. I am going through the service manual for this guy and educating myself. The model number on the engine plate says: PRD WR R10. Is this a 351 or 302? In the manual it says the 4th digit is the type, W is not a choice, but D is the 351. Thanks for all the help guys...eventually I hope to get this beast running as smoothly and reliably as the ol' '77. Brandon |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: April-29-2005 at 2:31am
| your charging system is not in proper order. You should have at least 13.5-14.0 volts the engine isn't running smoothly because there isn't enough juice to fire the plugs sufficently. Get the alt rebuilt or replaced before you dig into any other engine work to correct rough idle or poor performance. |
Posted By: billgatesceo
Date Posted: April-29-2005 at 2:57am
| Most of the cables look great, at least right at the battery. I guess I can pull the alternator and take it to autozone, etc. to have them test it. Rebuiling it would probably be the cheapest way to go. It doesn't look like a standard alternator found on a typical ford v8, or am I wrong? |
Posted By: billgatesceo
Date Posted: April-29-2005 at 3:09am
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I just looked at the model/make of the alternator. No wonder...It's made my Motorola. Don't they make cellphones. J/K...I did notice that the belt may be loose. I can spin the alternator by hand easily. I'm guessing that I should not be able to do this.
Should I have the mod move this to the "engine" section? |
Posted By: billgatesceo
Date Posted: April-29-2005 at 3:29am
| So after reading the book...I answered my own questionabout the model no. It is a 351. This should be fun. I have always only worked on more modern fuel injected engines, and have torn them down pretty far (ie timing belt on '90 300zx). I guess it's about time for me to learn to tune a carburetor correctly. |
Posted By: Dallas
Date Posted: April-29-2005 at 3:42am
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Congratulations on the new member of the family. Here is a great site I found for engine questions. Our engines have some queertrons that make them a bit different in some aspects,but these guys can be a huge help in tuning and troubleshooting.
Dallas http://www.corral.net/forums/index.php - Corral (Great engine info) |
Posted By: billgatesceo
Date Posted: April-29-2005 at 3:54am
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Dallas. I used to live on that site a long time ago when I had my '96 Mustang GT. It sure has grown since then.
Here are some pics of the alternator: Can anyone tell me if it an internal or external regulator style? 
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Posted By: scomer
Date Posted: April-29-2005 at 2:47pm
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That looks to be the regulator built onto the back of the alternator(my opinion). My 78 has an external regulator mounted on the back of the motor above the bell housing - actually mounted to a plate behind the carb and the plate being bolted to the rear of the intake.
I would try tightening the belt first before I pulled it off. Then check to see if you are getting more volts. ------------- SCOMER |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: April-29-2005 at 11:25pm
| So is the consensus that it is an internal regulator style? I did not know the external type had the regulator mounted apart from the alternator. |
Posted By: jameski
Date Posted: April-29-2005 at 11:52pm
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billgatesceo, that looks like the one I took off of my '78 Commander. Mine had an external regulator. The alternator and regulator were motorola. The regulator was mounted on the plate at the rear of the intake with the solenoid. I replaced mine with a new internally regulated alternator from SKIDIM. It came with a simple wiring diagram for the upgrade. I was able to disconect the old regulator. ------------- current boat http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1977 - 94 Sport Nautique previous boat http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=601 - 78 Martinique |
Posted By: 80nauts
Date Posted: April-30-2005 at 1:13am
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Before you give up and buy a new alternator or regulator: Pull the Alternator apart and use break cleaner on the stator and rotor, but try not to get the cleaner on the bearings. If the bearings are dry then try to get some grease on them. Scratch the brushes with some fine grit sand/emery paper and put it back togeather. I have done this on an old 74 alternator that had the same symptoms as what is being described here. It has worked great in the 13.5 to 14+ range for a year now. I think the oxidization or whatever really hinders the performance of these old electical parts. |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: April-30-2005 at 2:51am
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Thanks for the help guys. Anyone have a pick of the external regulator. I figured that it was the part attached to the back of the alternator.
First I will try tightening the belt, second I will try to clean the individual parts as described above. Are there any advantages to using the newer internal style over the external other than availability? Cheers |
Posted By: skyhawkflyer
Date Posted: April-30-2005 at 4:20am
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It looks like your belt is nearing the edge of its adjustment range. Check your belt over good too.
If your battery is weak, your alternator is going to pull hard (rotate) during the heavy amp draw. If your belt is slightly loose it's going to slip, evermore so if your battery is not fully charged. A classic sign is black belt dust on your intake manifold, water pump and carburator spark arrestor. Your always going to get some dust, but if its building quickly then you need to look closely at your belt and the pulley surfaces (rust & pitting). Rust on a pulley can destroy a new belt in a short time. ------------- |
Posted By: SS 201
Date Posted: April-30-2005 at 8:45am
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Check the voltage at the battery with a volt meter while running, should be 12.6 to 13.6.
Also to check alt, keep idle above 1500 if the engine dies the alt is bad. The engine will run on the alt if its good even with a bad battery, however it will die if the idle gets below the 1500 rpm. |
Posted By: jameski
Date Posted: April-30-2005 at 12:00pm
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It sounds like you have a bad battery. If you take it to the auto parts store, they can test it for you. ------------- current boat http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1977 - 94 Sport Nautique previous boat http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=601 - 78 Martinique |
Posted By: jameski
Date Posted: April-30-2005 at 12:06pm
Here's a picture of my old external regulator:
 ------------- current boat http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1977 - 94 Sport Nautique previous boat http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=601 - 78 Martinique |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: April-30-2005 at 8:45pm
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So it sounds like I could have a couple of problems.
1)belt is loose..you shouldn't be able to turn it with my pinky finger like I can now. 2)battery is weak. when we got it going it would definately die if it went under 1500rpm. It did seem to idle down low after charging it for a full day. The guy that I bought the boat from said it was a new battery. Could a weak alternator cause a battery to go bad? Thanks for the help guys. I am going to work on it Sunday afternoon, and let yall know what transpires. I will look for the external regulator. There is a black plastic cover where it should be, just haven't taken it off yet to see. |
Posted By: jameski
Date Posted: April-30-2005 at 11:30pm
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I think it's possible that you could tighten your belt and all your problems will be gone... if not, then check your battery and check your charging system (alternator/regulator). ------------- current boat http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1977 - 94 Sport Nautique previous boat http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=601 - 78 Martinique |
Posted By: jimbo
Date Posted: May-01-2005 at 2:12am
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The thing under your black plastic cover may be the ballist resistor. I saw in another thread where somebody said their ballist resistor was under a cover. If there are only two wires going to the box, that would be my guess.
My '84 has a voltage regulator with several wires going to to it. It says "Motorola" on the back. It looks alot like the pic above. |
Posted By: billgatesceo
Date Posted: May-02-2005 at 2:21am
| I decided to move this thread to the engine forum |