Need help w/ winterizing
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15602
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 2:36am
Topic: Need help w/ winterizing
Posted By: mikebren
Subject: Need help w/ winterizing
Date Posted: October-15-2009 at 11:16pm
have a 97 ski nautique 196 - 351 pro boss
having trouble getting the passenger side of the engine block to flush
got everything else i believe
any suggestions?
help
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Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-15-2009 at 11:45pm
Flush or drain? You don't need to flush. If it's not draining after removing the plug, have you probed the hole for sediment? Poke a stiff wire in the hole.
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64 X55 Dunphy
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Posted By: mikebren
Date Posted: October-16-2009 at 1:31pm
already drained everything and i had no problem with that
side. the water came out fine. i guess i will try cleaning it
out. thanks!
"You don't need to flush."
i was always told to drain and flush but there was never a need
to fill up with up antifreeze because there was always the chance
that the antifreeze could freeze
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-16-2009 at 2:16pm
What are you trying to flush it with and how (what are you hooking up to the block/hoses?)
Yes, antifreeze is optional. Many just drain still. Antifreeze freezing??? Only if you haven't drained first!!
BTW, what ever happened with http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14651&KW=&PID=168888&title=dockside-marine#168888 - your problem back in July? You were looking for advice on a marina and never said what the problem was.
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64 X55 Dunphy
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Posted By: mikebren
Date Posted: October-16-2009 at 3:43pm
Last year I just ran the antifreeze down the hoses and let gravity do
its thing.
So as long as I pull the plug and let it drain, I shouldn't have a problem? No need for flushing the block? But now I'm worried that like you said there could be sediment build-up. So now I will probe a little and see what happens.
As far as the problem I was having -
The boat would start and run fine for an hour or two. But after stopping
and sitting for a length of time, it wouldn't start up again. I had it happen twice this past summer. After the first time it happened I took it to the "DING DONG" in Wilmington for him to tell me that I just needed a tune up. Plus he tried to tell me that I had the original spark plugs (which is total b.s.). I really hesitated about taking it there but I was thinking that was my only option at that point. I figured there was a bigger issue than just a tune up. Now I know better. Lesson learned! So after it happened to me again, I made a call down the guys at N3 Boatworks and they were very helpful and knew exactly what was going on. They sent me a low volume/pressure fuel pump and I switched it out myself. So far so good!
I wonder if the "DING DONGS" really did anything I asked them to do.
I want my money back !
Another story of how you get treated "right" at the dealer.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-16-2009 at 3:59pm
mikebren wrote:
Last year I just ran the antifreeze down the hoses and let gravity do its thing.
So as long as I pull the plug and let it drain, I shouldn't have a problem? No need for flushing the block? But now I'm worried that like you said there could be sediment build-up. So now I will probe a little and see what happens. |
As long as you drain first then pouring the antifreeze down the hose is the preferred method. When you open up the drains, the sediment will come out along with the water. Flushing isn't needed. You'll see junk come out of the drain hole first and then clear water. The probing is just in case there is so much sediment it will block the drain hole.
Glad you got the problem fixed with the fuel pump! Yes, there are marinas out there that really shouldn't be in business!! Of course ther same is true with auto repair!!
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64 X55 Dunphy
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Posted By: lonestar
Date Posted: October-18-2009 at 12:45pm
Pete: What do you think of those brass drain valves that skidim sells {quick drains} for the block, mani, etc ?
------------- lonestar
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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-18-2009 at 1:07pm
what would really be nice this time of the year for those who use the boat and worry about freezing would be little brass ball valves with levers, easy to open and close,
sure as *************** with the petcocks yoo get up in the boat and try to loosen them and they are tight, back out of the boat you go to get a pair of pliers. I let the pups do the winterizing because climbing in and out gets to you after a while...I do notice that 2 gallons is more than enough to add, about halfway through the 2nd gallon while pouring, it starts to come out of the exhaust, this includes Big Blocks also
------------- "the things you own will start to own you"
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-18-2009 at 3:48pm
lonestar wrote:
Pete: What do you think of those brass drain valves that skidim sells {quick drains} for the block, mani, etc ? |
Chris,
For the most part I feel Skidim sells a good product line but with the drain kit they have, someone must have been smoking something to come up with it!! Small passages and no way to probe for sediment.
This pet cock I've posted before and is the one I have on all my boats. Unlike the cheap "radiator" drains, the center stem is removable so yo can easily get a wire through them. Merc even uses them on some of their inboards and I/O's.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#4921k2/=445j2v - stopcocks at McMaster
They are available in 1/8, 1/4, and 3/8 pipe sizes. If you have the 3/4" plugs in your manifolds, you'll need a 3/4 x 3/8 hex brass reducing bushings too.
Eric's idea of using ball valves isn't bad ether but with them it looks like overkill to me. Too big and bulky.
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64 X55 Dunphy
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Posted By: MartyMabe
Date Posted: October-18-2009 at 11:14pm
Pete, The plugs in the exhaust manifolds of my 93 SN (351) are, what :steel or galvanized? Either way what would you recommend putting back in there? Brass,steel,galvanized? I took all the precautions this weekend and put both boats down for their 'Hibernation'. Man it was 40'F---BRRRR!!! LOL! Only the manifold plugs were pitted.Wirebrushed inside passages and flushed them out.Got some flakes of rust out--although I guess since this boat has been at Lake George it's entire life and Lake George did all the maintenance I came out very well with this boat. It took me a little bit figuring out the shower routing,and heater routing, but flushed it all, air blowed shower and heater, manifolds,and tore down the RWP. Everything looks good. Might hook up the magnetic block heater to the 93.No antifreeze back in the blocks-although they're predicting a colder,wetter winter this year here for us.Put antifreeze in the 66 last year but I wrap it up in firniture pads. Those are a dime a dozen around here at High Point,Furniture Market time.
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Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: October-18-2009 at 11:43pm
MartyMabe wrote:
Pete, The plugs in the exhaust manifolds of my 93 SN (351) are, what :steel or galvanized? Either way what would you recommend putting back in there? |
8122pbrainard wrote:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#4921k2/=445j2v - stopcocks at McMaster
They are available in 1/8, 1/4, and 3/8 pipe sizes. If you have the 3/4" plugs in your manifolds, you'll need a 3/4 x 3/8 hex brass reducing bushings too.
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Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: October-19-2009 at 12:07am
I like plain old brass plugs a lot better than stopcocks or petcocks or whatever. They open up better and are easier to probe. On the engines I take care of that have stopcocks, I pull the entire unit out as if it were a drain plug.
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Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: October-19-2009 at 12:40am
Riley wrote:
I like plain old brass plugs a lot better than stopcocks or petcocks or whatever. They open up better and are easier to probe. |
I agree with that Bruce only because I only do it once a year. For a guy that uses his boat late in the season or lives in a location where they may not winterize at all and wants to drain it after each use the stop cocks are easier.
------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails
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Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: October-19-2009 at 2:46am
81nautique wrote:
Riley wrote:
I like plain old brass plugs a lot better than stopcocks or petcocks or whatever. They open up better and are easier to probe. |
I agree with that Bruce only because I only do it once a year. For a guy that uses his boat late in the season or lives in a location where they may not winterize at all and wants to drain it after each use the stop cocks are easier. |
That makes sense, never really thought about that. Maybe they don't scale up so bad either when they get drained more often.
I've got stopcocks on the aluminum Interceptor exhaust manifolds that don't come out. They don't seem to scale up, but I can't get a wire in there, so I flush them out with anti freeze.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-19-2009 at 9:26am
Marty,
If you simply use a plug, I recommend using brass ones too. So many have problems getting steel plugs out. BTW, even glavanized fittings can be the problem - the threads aren't coated!!
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