Windshield bolts
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15836
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 8:43am
Topic: Windshield bolts
Posted By: Tom_Madison
Subject: Windshield bolts
Date Posted: November-17-2009 at 9:27pm
To faciliate a new gel coat on the deck I removed the windshield. In the process the bolts cracked off, or are worthless. The bolts have a rectangular head that fits into the windshield frame. I can't find these bolts anywhere. Where can I find some stainless bolts for this? Also, below the deck the bolts were secured with fiber washers and regular nuts. Any reason why I shouldn't use fiber washers with nylon locking nuts?
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Replies:
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: November-17-2009 at 9:55pm
What year and model boat are you working on?
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Posted By: Tom_Madison
Date Posted: November-17-2009 at 10:05pm
It is a 1978 Ski Nautique with the 2-piece black windshield.
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Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: November-17-2009 at 10:10pm
Well welcome to the site Tom. I have a 78 Ski Tique that is missing a few windshield parts. I'm a little hesitant to take it apart in fear it will never go back together! I'm sure someone here will inform us soon!
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-17-2009 at 10:42pm
It wasn't too long ago that I suggested welding flat "T" tabs to the end of SS threaded rod but then someone came through with a source! Of course, I can't find the thread! Hang in there and maybe the person who knew of the source will see your request.
How about some pictures of the gel job?
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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-17-2009 at 10:48pm
Tom,
I found the thread I was referring to.
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14884&KW=windshield+bolts&PID=171675&title=span-classhighlightwindshield-span-hold-down-t-span-classhighlightbolts-span#171675 - windshield hold down bolts
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54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: Tom_Madison
Date Posted: November-17-2009 at 11:42pm
Right now the boat is a mess. I sanded the entire deck and hullsides and transom down with 40, then 60 and 80 grit sandpaper. I uncovered a lot of previous repairs/filler, and a little bit of epoxy. All in all, it is in good shape. No rotten wood, and only one small crack in the deck joint. I am bringing the boat for gel coating to Artisan Boat and Body Repair in Windor, Wi. after Thanksgiving. There were blisters everywhere below the waterline that I had to sand out right down to the fiberglass. I am not doing the bottom at this time - probably work on that next fall. Same thing - pockmarked with blisters. My fear is that there is still well-blended paint on the boat sides, which will screw up the gel coat. We'll see. I really don't want to do any more sanding except for after the gel coat.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-18-2009 at 9:21am
Tom,
There's one boat that the owner has shown at our Lake Geneva (ACBS) show that Artisan did. He's had it there about 5 years so I saw it right after Artisan did the work and 5 years later. Still looks great so after the 5 years it's a good indicator of good work. The owner also has a complete photographic log of the work they did. I've taken a close look at the pictures and Artisan did a careful job. I'm sure you won't go wrong.
When Artisan gets the boat, they can take a look at the hull sides/bottom to see if further prep work is needed making sure there isn't paint still down in the blistered areas.
You've mentioned that there isn't any rot in the stringers. How did you determine this? Did you remove any of the glass over the wood to take a look? My worry here is since the hull is blistered so bad, I'd be really surprised if water hasn't gotten into the stringers. Keep in mind that polyester resin is hydroscopic and blistering is caused by moisture intrusion into the hull. Water will get in ether from the top or the bottom! Ask Artisan to take at look too. You don't want to put all the work/money into the boat and have stringer problems!
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54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: Tom_Madison
Date Posted: November-18-2009 at 2:08pm
The stringer issue was my biggest concern when I got the boat. The previous owner put in a new floor and was confident that all of the motor mount bolts were tight. He even took samples of the stringers and said they were solid. So far that seems the case. The plywood lower transom exhaust holes were a bit damp, but pretty good. Going forward, I'll need to do something about the boat's bottom, but I have no good way to work on that while it's on the trailer. Maybe I'll have Artisan sand and paint/gel coat the bottom next year.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-18-2009 at 3:55pm
Tom_Madison wrote:
The stringer issue was my biggest concern when I got the boat. The previous owner put in a new floor and was confident that all of the motor mount bolts were tight. |
Tom,
How confident are you with the PO's confidence? Some have been only to find big surprises. Andy (okie boarder) is a good example. Engine mount bolts are not a good indicator in my opinion. It's very localized and doesn't sample the lower areas of the stringers. The only reason people do check them when buying a boat is it's a non invasive check. Talk to Artisan.
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54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: Tom_Madison
Date Posted: November-18-2009 at 6:15pm
Here is an email from the PO:
I am positive that the stringers are solid. When I pulled out the old floor I fully inspected the stringers (in the front center section of the hull and back center section there is access to the primaries for almost the entire length). While the old floor was out I used a 1/8" drill bit to take small core samples in various spots (holes were CPES'd (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) and reglassed before replacing floor) all core samples were solid and dry wood. The one spot of deterioration was the top 1.5 inches of the primaries starting about 8inches from behind the back motor mounts and running to about 4 inches prior to the gas tank. I took out the small amount of bad wood in this section, CPES'd the stingers, and used the original fiberglass shell of the stingers to build up the area of removed wood with Seacast (http://transomrepair.com/zk/ -- here is a website showing its properties). I then recapped the stringers in fiberglass prior to replacing the floor with marine grade ply (also sealed before installing) and heavy duty marine carpet. Note that the back floor is completely removable to provide acess to the log and more room to get at the trans if ever needed (basically the same as original from that factory). The front center section was glassed in, but I did install an access port (screw off port - similar to what is over the thru hull shaft log) for easier access in the case that lines ever need to be fished thru the center of the hull. When replacing the front center section I also added some reinforcement for the pylon.
All said, when I redid the floor I made sure that I was not going to have to do it again for a long time. In conjunction, all eight motor mount bolts still grab hard into solid wood.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-18-2009 at 10:15pm
Tom, Sounds like the Po did do his research and followed a decent repair. I just didn't want you to run into a problem later on.
Did you buy the boat from a CCfan member?
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54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: Tom_Madison
Date Posted: November-19-2009 at 1:56pm
Yes, he wa a member - do a search on the boat and you can find the previous owners. But I found the boat on Craigslist.
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Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: April-23-2010 at 5:27pm
Does anyone know where I can find the plastic trim strip that covers the screw track for a 1984 SN 2001? The piece is about 1/2" wide by 84" long and goes across the lower section of the windshield.
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