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Just Winterized for First Time-Question

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15859
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 2:35am


Topic: Just Winterized for First Time-Question
Posted By: trihartsfield
Subject: Just Winterized for First Time-Question
Date Posted: November-20-2009 at 8:26pm
This is the first time I winterized a boat. It is a 1970 Barricuda with a 318. I got water from the passenger side exhaust but did not get any out of the driver side. Is this unusual? Also I think I did everything:

Fogged the carb
Removed spark plugs and sprayed fogging material into cylinders. Replaced spark plusg
Turned the engine over several times before and after fogging cylinders
Drained both exhausts-see above
Drained block on both sides (wow there is a lot of water in the block)
Removed battery
Taped up exhaust outlets
Added gasoline treatment and filled up tank
Removed pump/altenator belt

After reading multiple post on the subject I decided not to add antifreeze.

Did I miss anything?


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Chris



Replies:
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: November-20-2009 at 8:34pm
I would take the plug out of the starboard exhaust and dig around in there with a wire to see if it is just plugged up a bit. I got water out of both sides, and a ton out of the block on mine.
I cannot remember if my 318 has a plug in the trans cooler, but if not you can just pull the hose off the bottom end.

Other than that, it looks like you got everything.

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Mike N

1968 Mustang







Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: November-20-2009 at 8:34pm
Dont forget to pull the impeller. Had to replace mine this spring due to it being "set"



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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: November-20-2009 at 8:50pm
You are safe from ruining your engine. Take another look in that manifold and see why there might not be any water in there. Obviously the exhaust manifolds have cooling water running through them, perhaps your plumbing "self drains" that one but you definitely should know where the water went.

Where are the block drains on a 318? If there is one forward/back then you should tilt the engine down the best you can to drain the higher one.

I didn't see anything about changing the oil. Also, it's usually recommended to treat the fuel in your delivery system is treated, not just what is sitting in the tank.

The above two guys got you covered on your cooling water plumbing.

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-20-2009 at 8:53pm
Originally posted by storm34 storm34 wrote:

Dont forget to pull the impeller. Had to replace mine this spring due to it being "set"



Chris, (both)
Some do pull the impellers but some like myself don't. I've never done it and have never had a problem and I'm talking about 20 year old impellers! Charlie (Brady) who has a 318 in his 70 Cuda has never pulled his ether!!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: skfitz
Date Posted: November-20-2009 at 11:12pm
What's the thinking on loosening the belt?


Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: November-20-2009 at 11:23pm
Never done it.

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Mike N

1968 Mustang







Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: November-20-2009 at 11:55pm
Originally posted by skfitz skfitz wrote:

What's the thinking on loosening the belt?


I'm told it makes them last longer and helps prevent wear / failure.

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...those who have fallen and those who will.


Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: November-21-2009 at 1:20am
My 318 has the drain plugs towards the front of the motor on both sides.

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Mike N

1968 Mustang







Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-21-2009 at 10:34am
Originally posted by SN206 SN206 wrote:

Originally posted by skfitz skfitz wrote:

What's the thinking on loosening the belt?


I'm told it makes them last longer and helps prevent wear / failure.


Never done it. The belts on my 312 are OEM. Last longer? The 312 is a 1964!!!! No, it doesn't have a large alternator like newer engines but it is a 40amp which would be typical well into the 80's. RWP is a dual impeller/cavity that does pull more water than a single. It's a single belt set up.

BTW, my 54 is OEM too. It's sill got some paint on it from when they painted it.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: trihartsfield
Date Posted: November-21-2009 at 11:53am
There is a hose on the port side (passenger) at the back of the manifold that tee's into hoses that go to the transmission. I removed that hose and got alot of water from the manifold and the hose. The starbord side has a plug in the manifold in the same place but it looks like it has never been removed. I will recheck the manifold.

Both of my block drain plugs are toward the front of the motor and I did remove both.

I am going to change the oil in the spring.



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Chris


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-21-2009 at 12:17pm
Originally posted by trihartsfield trihartsfield wrote:

I am going to change the oil in the spring.

I would strongly recommend changing it this fall instead.

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Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: November-21-2009 at 12:28pm
Couple things mentioned and not:
Do this prior to running engine the last time:
Change motor oil and trans fluid
Treat Gas in tank

I would be nervous about not pouring in any Anti Freeze, this assures any residual water that may not have drained will not freeze as well as serves as an anti-corrosive.

Spread a few dryer sheets (bounce) around interior to repel rodents.


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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-21-2009 at 12:31pm
The best winterizing technique would be to pull the motor & store it inside. But then there are power outages to worry about . . .

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: November-22-2009 at 1:45am
winterizing?

john

sorry...couldn't resist...

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"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...


Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: November-22-2009 at 2:23am
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

The best winterizing technique would be to pull the motor & store it inside. But then there are power outages to worry about . . .


I believe Alan copped to this practice.

I have two of three out and warm. The python is cold though.

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Mike N

1968 Mustang







Posted By: dwcar
Date Posted: November-22-2009 at 2:28am
I am getting my old drop lights ready for that one hard freeze coming in Jan/Feb. It is getting down to 48 tonight.

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83Ski


Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: November-22-2009 at 2:47am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

[

Chris, (both)
Some do pull the impellers but some like myself don't. I've never done it and have never had a problem and I'm talking about 20 year old impellers! Charlie (Brady) who has a 318 in his 70 Cuda has never pulled his ether!!


Pete, what causes the impeller to become set? I've always been told to pull them...Gotta keep them away from the puppy tho, last one became a chew toy! I guess thats the sacrifice of having a pup in the shop!

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Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-22-2009 at 11:15am
Pete - I know you like to test the limits of durability, but there has been enough reports of disintegrated impellers causing cooling restrictions that we should promote regular replacement.     I agree annual replacement is not warranted, but a 2 or 3 year replacement interval should be recommended.     Many newbie guys get there info from this site so it is important we have valid recommendations.

I doubt that removal during the winter affects disintegration, but it probably does impact pumping efficiency.

PS - I had the impeller in my outboard changed after 8 years & it had chunks missing.   I never once started it without water.

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-22-2009 at 12:02pm
I really feel the cause of impeller failure is caused by running them dry and not age or taking a set over winter.

The so called set in the impeller blades is from the area over the wear plate. The wear plate compresses 2 or 3 of the blades into a smaller diameter. It's this smaller diameter that causes the water suction when the blades open back up to the diameter of the pump casing.

I will agree that I do push the limits. I'll do a impeller change in spring on my 312!!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: November-22-2009 at 2:59pm
I change them every 3-4 years, and then end up having a couple spares cause I have never had a bad one. Only reason I have a new one on hand is for just in case. Then when I am inspecting it I change it cause I am already in there. I help keep the impeller guys in business I guess.



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Mike N

1968 Mustang







Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: November-22-2009 at 5:37pm
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:



I doubt that removal during the winter affects disintegration, but it probably does impact pumping efficiency.



This is why I had to change mine last year. Boat ran great around the lake once then I started to lose volume and the temp started to climb.



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