Found some rot - what now and how bad
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16305
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 4:20am
Topic: Found some rot - what now and how bad
Posted By: MAN - GA
Subject: Found some rot - what now and how bad
Date Posted: January-17-2010 at 5:31pm
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1975 Mustang 16
I pulled the seats/motor cover out and pulled up carpet to do a good interior cleaning - everything I can see after removing these items is that all the original glass is still tight - I don't have any spongy spots or deflection due to rot except for one place I found a small amount of rot in the channel along the driver side exhaust path. I scraped out the rot about 1" deep and the remaining wood seems pretty dry down to this point - Is it best to dry this out and then use some epoxy to fill back up and just monitor it from this point? Any comments/suggestions would be appreciated 
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Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-17-2010 at 5:46pm
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How's the engine/shaft/strut alignment?
I'd get some "core" samples down towards the bottoms of your stringers as well. Use a hole saw to just remove the glass. The pilot drill will drill out enough wood to see what it looks like. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: MAN - GA
Date Posted: January-17-2010 at 6:14pm
| assuming the cores are dry - what type of filler should I use to encapsulate this back? |
Posted By: MAN - GA
Date Posted: January-17-2010 at 6:19pm
| also everything is still aligned and running fine - no problems there at this point in time |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-17-2010 at 7:43pm
Just wanted to be sure the engine wasn't going anyplace! It checks out at or below .003? Did you follow the normal alignment checking procedure? Clean the area around the hole by grinding and then level out the hole made by the hole saw with some filled epoxy. Go over the top with some cloth and epoxy. Small epoxy repair kits are available at marine supplies or on line. It should have everything needed. You may be able to get a couple of more seasons out of it before a stringer job, however it's inevitable! Check your alignment often. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
MAN - GA wrote:Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-17-2010 at 8:28pm
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Mark - Most of the guys here are going to say that the stringers need full replacement - they don't mess around!
One of the problems is that if you seal it back up you trap moisture in. It is possible to 'sister' in a section (essentially a splint layed along side) for a repair. That may buy you a few years of use, but eventually you will need to replace the entire stringer. Your boat looks great & the work you do on it will be well justified. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: January-17-2010 at 8:58pm
Mark, BuffaloBFN has done an entire stringer/floor replacement on his 88'BFN. He's up in Gainesville so he isn't too far from you. Maybe he'll chime in and offer to come down and have a looksie  to see what you've got. ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: MAN - GA
Date Posted: January-17-2010 at 9:14pm
| Thanks for all the input the alignment checks out - the problem is not on the primary longitudal stringer that the motor/transmission mount to - it on the outside stringer along the exhaust chase - the piece of wood in question appears to be about the size of a 1x6 or 1x8 in size and it rotted out in a U-shape about 10" long deepest is about 1" in the middle and curves up to flush out on each end - probing the bottom of the area after scraping out the rotted section it was still dry and hard wood |
Posted By: FrankT
Date Posted: January-18-2010 at 12:48am
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I would recommend that you look at the stringers at the low point in boat, close to the pylon and bilge pump. These areas see the most frequent exposure to water and movement/stress. One of my stringers ended up solid towards the rear but completely gone up front.
Good luck with it, Frank. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-18-2010 at 11:53am
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Back to your secondary stringer - I suppose you could notch out the rotten area & insert some new wood with epoxy - but no one here is going to endorse that type of repair . . . ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: hasbeenskier
Date Posted: January-18-2010 at 1:16pm
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I will.. If the main stringers are holding there is nothing wrong with making a water tight repair on the "spot". As long as you realize your just buying time. It is, however, a pretty sure bet the foam is wet. Based on your description of your problem, " I would swim with current" for now.
bj ------------- hasbeenskier |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: January-19-2010 at 8:35am
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Mark, I could take a look at it, but the guys above have you pointed in the right direction.
Have you done any glass work before? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: MAN - GA
Date Posted: January-19-2010 at 10:26am
| Have done some fiberglass work before but it was very simple patches on an old fishing boat - nothing turned out extremely pretty, but it didn't need to be either |