1987 2001 rebuild
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16325
Printed Date: January-10-2025 at 7:36pm
Topic: 1987 2001 rebuild
Posted By: zachjeepyj
Subject: 1987 2001 rebuild
Date Posted: January-21-2010 at 1:07am
| Hey guys i joined last summer and had some questions about stringers and spider cracks.Well now its time to fix the problem and i have completely stripped my boat to the hull,removed the rotted stringers on one side,and now im waiting to order my epoxy.Ive got to special order the fir 2x10 no one around birmingham al stocks them.Last night i started sanding my hull getting ready to re gel. Is there anymore options besides gel i want it to last, and also wanting to know the best solution u guys have found to fix the spider cracks.Ive done alot of research and havent found anything besides groove them and fill with bondo is this about the best thing ?Thanks for any help. |
Replies:
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: January-21-2010 at 1:15am
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Zach, I'm in the process of fixing the gel on the deck of my Skier. I'm planning on painting for the time being and will use an epoxy filler instead of bondo. ------------- |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: January-21-2010 at 9:45am
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Try http://sweetwaterlumber.com/default.htm - Sweetwater Lumber in Austell,GA. It's a little ways for you to drive but worth it IMO to see what you are getting.
Try an advanced search for gel kote/gel coat and specify 'any date' in the parameters. There are several good reads on gel here. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-21-2010 at 10:42am
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Zach - Another option (not necessarily better)than filling the cracks is to completely strip the old gel coat. One guy did that, I think he said he spent over a grand in sandpaper & a year doing it. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: zachjeepyj
Date Posted: January-21-2010 at 6:40pm
| Thanks for the info put my order in at sweetwater today, and i will pick my stringers up tommorow.Saved about forty dollars compared to lowes. But on the other hand will spend that in gas.I'll have it this weekend though. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-21-2010 at 7:48pm
Zach, Don't worry about the gas. besides being less, I guarantee the stuff from Sweetwater will be quality compared to Lowes!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
zachjeepyj wrote:Posted By: zachjeepyj
Date Posted: January-23-2010 at 2:30am
| My wife drove to sweetwater this morning and picked up my lumber so im ready to get started.Could anyone tell me about the awlgrip and interlux urethane paint and if u have tried it.Someone at west marine said these products were good and alot easier than gel. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-23-2010 at 10:28am
Zach, Yes painting is less time consuming. I don't feel it's any easier than gel. Maybe slightly easier to spray but the linear polys (Awlgrip, etc.) can be tricky too. It's best that you do have some time in holding the gun on ether. The extra time for the gel is due to the wet sanding/buffing needed after you shoot it. It doesn't flow out/level like paint does so you end up with lots of orange peel. Paint the same qualities as gel??? Never!!! I always promote gel for a high quality hull restoration. Now, why do you think West is pushing the paint? They sell paint and don't sell gel!!! BTW, nothing really against West as they do handle decent products but ALWAYS high priced. I'd avoid them if possible. Their adviser service is pretty much a joke. I've called them several times, talked to several of their "advisers", can't answer the question and they end up giving me manufacturer phone numbers!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: hasbeenskier
Date Posted: January-23-2010 at 10:42am
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Pete's advise above is 100% accurate and the only input I have to add is "do not remove all your gel coat" to eliminate spider cracks, simply get a dremmel and slightly rout out the cracks and fill them and sand.
Those that re-gel coat never regret it cause IT IS ORIGINAL. bj ------------- hasbeenskier |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-23-2010 at 1:23pm
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outline the cracks with sharpie pen, i will mix finely shaven glass in with resin and a touch of talc to thicken. dremel all your lines and the go a touch deeper on the entire area. duraglass is also a good material for repairs. at the ends of the cracks go deeper and drill a circle....always first though, try to determine why the cracks are there or they will come right back. you need korlan primer for the area.
if your painting and not gelling, Acrylic Uretane (Imron) is the way to go. on your last coat you mix 50/50 paint and a good qaulity clear in the gun for its U.V protection and its finish ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: zachjeepyj
Date Posted: January-26-2010 at 12:28am
| Thanks pete everyone leans towards gelcoat i'll have to do it myself because of budget.I have one friend that paints cars says he will help.What is duraglass and would it be better than just bondo?Ill try to post some pics of my progress soon really nothing but a 1987 2001 in pieces .Also could i just use a gun from harbor freight to spray gel r do you guys have a specific one you like to use?Thanks guys! |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-26-2010 at 1:11am
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Because gel coat is so thick something like http://www.mertons.com/Tools/gelcoatgun.html - this is needed.An added plus is that it mixes the hardener out side the gun,so you can stop.Just look up gel coat gun,there are several places that have them. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-26-2010 at 9:23am
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Zack,
Glad you have some one who can help out with the spraying. Gel is a heavy viscosity so the guns fluid tip and air tip need to be the properly sized. People have tried to use cheap guns but to get the gel through them it needs to be reduced (thinned) so much that you don't get the build (thickness) needed. Some have been able to use gravity feed guns but the gel needs a fair amount of reduction with them too. I feel pressure feed is the way to go but do talk to your friend. I have a 2 quart pressure feed but it's a PITA to clean. For the recommended viscosity, talk to the supplier of the gel. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: zachjeepyj
Date Posted: January-26-2010 at 11:27am
| My next question is on my decking im going to use untreated 3/4 plywood.When i epoxy over it do i need mat r can i just roll epoxy over it to seal it off. |
Posted By: 82 Nautique 1
Date Posted: January-26-2010 at 11:47am
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Zach,
I am currently rebuilding a 1988. I dry fit the 3/4" then used CPES liberally Next I placed resin and 1 lift om mat on the bottom side. After it cured out, I placed a layer of resin weted mat over all the wood stringer/supports that the 3/4" comes in contact with. Attach the plywood with the strip mats still wet. I then foamed around the edges of the plywood to the edge of the hull, sanded the foam, then you are ready to glass the top of the plywood. This information may help you.. This method is above and beyond what the factory did Dennis ------------- Original Owner " Dennis" http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4855" rel="nofollow - 1982 Nautique |
Posted By: 82 Nautique 1
Date Posted: January-26-2010 at 11:56am
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Zack,
I am basically going to do the same on the removable floor panel behind the engine. Now that I have my floor sides 100% glassed in, I will place a 4' level or straight edge on the top of each side to determine the additional buildup on the plywood and or stringers in that area to get the panel flush on top with the sides. This information may be ahead of you, yet may come in useful Dennis ------------- Original Owner " Dennis" http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4855" rel="nofollow - 1982 Nautique |
Posted By: zachjeepyj
Date Posted: January-26-2010 at 7:34pm
| 82nautique1 Does u.s. composites sell the cpes that is where im ordering from.How many layers of glass on top of your plywood.Is your method strong enough to hold the plywood down for the next twenty years with no screws.Not doubting u just dont wont it to come up Thanks |
Posted By: 82 Nautique 1
Date Posted: January-26-2010 at 7:57pm
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Zack,
I do not know if USC sells the CPES, I bought my CPES here: http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html I ordered 2 Gallons (1 gallon of each component cost $177.71) I figure I have used 3 quarts of each so far. After placing the plywood on the wet strips on top of the stringers, I pre drilled and used stainless screws to hold the plywood down. I used a sringe to put some CPES in the drilled holes. Use a liberal amount of resin on top of the screws with the first lift of mat. I placed 3 layers of Biaxel on the top side of the plywood floor. I am not concerned about the screws being in the wood as moisture will have to get through the 3 layers of mat and resin to reach them. Dennis ------------- Original Owner " Dennis" http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4855" rel="nofollow - 1982 Nautique |
Posted By: zachjeepyj
Date Posted: February-01-2010 at 10:49pm
| Thanks for all the info this site sure helps.This is my first time doing any fiberglass,I actually install granite countertops for a living so i am familiar with resins and epoxies use them daily.What is the best method for laying the mat?From what ive read i need about 3 to 4 layers over my stringers ,i left the old glass just cut the top off it seemed easier for a beginner.On another post i read they used 2,4 and 8" strips.It took me forever to get my stinger to fit on the bottom probaly took it out 10 times to trim.Man you guys who get them out whole are lucky mine was nothing but mush. Definitly decided to go with the gel coat that way i want have to worry about the paint for a while not looking forward to all that sanding though.That seems like what most people prefer.The guys at usc sent me some stuff to thicken the epoxy to fill the spider cracks. Im planning to do bedliner on the floor. In a light color of course is this a good idea seems like it would seal everything off.Im going to take some pics soon of the progress.Thanks |
Posted By: zachjeepyj
Date Posted: February-02-2010 at 1:50am
  Heres my help. 
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Posted By: zachjeepyj
Date Posted: February-02-2010 at 1:57am
] This is the boss!
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Posted By: zachjeepyj
Date Posted: February-02-2010 at 1:58am
| Finally figured the pics had to resize. |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: February-02-2010 at 2:06am
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Looking good there. You are ahead of me. I used to live in Vestavia Hills in Birmingham. My first Correct Craft experiences were on the Warrior River. Learned to waterski there. Wakeboard now though. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: zachjeepyj
Date Posted: February-02-2010 at 2:26am
Heres the boat last summer .
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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-02-2010 at 9:55am
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some sound advice, Gelling a boat is for keeping the boat original but at times is very labor intensive and expensive to do and not for first timers, you will end up going broke if not done correctly, Pete, yes is an advocate for re-gelling. Eric is not, if it was a matter of the boat being worth 10k more because you re-gelled, then gel it
but as a first timer Acrylic urethane (Imron) is a great second choice if you prefer not to gel. I have painted complete boats 10 or 15 years ago with AU and they still hold well and are one helluva lot easier to buff 10 years later. im just providing information and in no way trying to sway whichever way you decide to do it. i respect pete's opinion to the fullest, but its your boat and you know what your capable of. your local paint store can mix acrylic urethanes and they have the same formulas as the marine paint, half the cost and if you do decide to AU, talk to a rep about application, on the last coat you mix 50/50 paint and a good UV clear and you will see your face in the side of the boat. Gelling has a tendency to go on thicker and will orange peel if not applied correctly, and that means you will spend about 100 hours of wet sanding it flat. again, just passing info ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-02-2010 at 10:01am
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I read thru again, I use a black sharpie pen to outline all the cracks because if you miss one they will instantly re-appear, find the root cause in your case probably weak stringers for the cracks. dremel the cracks down about an 1/8" and at the ends of the cracks dremel a circle, then come in with a small grinder and create a river over the cracks to make the repair area wider, grind with 36 and use either Long and strong, Duraglass with fiber added and block sand. use a 2 part urethane prime or epoxy prime and lat sit for a few days for shrinkage ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-02-2010 at 12:02pm
FYI, this is a very questionable practice! That old glass wont give any strength to your stringers and you'll never bond it to the wood as good as you could with new glass. I would highly recommend cutting those channels down to 1/4" or less (or completely removing them). You should get rid of all the gel anywhere the new glass will go to allow it to bond glass to glass (much stronger). Another vote for re-gel here. Its thicker and will last longer and be more durable than paint. Several first-timers here have tackled it with amazing results. I will be doing the same on the deck of my '67. Just do your research and take it slow. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-02-2010 at 12:49pm
Zach, I agree with Tim especially on your technique with the stringers. Easy? Maybe. Strong? No. I'm emphasizing this because I do not feel it's wise for others coming to the site following the same method. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 82 Nautique 1
Date Posted: February-02-2010 at 12:58pm
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Guy's
Before I started, i read the threads and have since found out the one's that presented them are correct. If you leave the existing fiberglass edges whatever height, you really have no way to see or fill the small gaps with filler. It is very hard to duplicate 100% the bottom shape of the stringer to match the hull. I would also think that the mat strips you bed under the stringers would create more air gaps further reducing the strength you are trying to achieve. As many guys have said and I know for a fact with a 4" grinder and some aggressive sanding disks the old can be removed. I think the only thing saved is some very dirty dusty work. I am 100% glad I removed all the old. When you get through the real dirty part you start feeling real good about your rebuild. Dennis ------------- Original Owner " Dennis" http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4855" rel="nofollow - 1982 Nautique |
Posted By: zachjeepyj
Date Posted: February-02-2010 at 9:41pm
| Its no problem to cut it away i just used it for a template and was gonna fill cavity with epoxy I thought it would bond.But if im not going to get strength then ill cut them, ill probably leave a 1/4" though to get the right position.Yes im also going to sand the gel before glassing just havent got to it yet.As far as the gel coat i have a experienced painter to help but he's never done any gel.Please let me know any suggestion just want to do it right ,also would someone please let me know how to lay the fiberglass and how far to overlap it. |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: February-02-2010 at 10:14pm
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I read to do 2 layers each of 2, 4, and 8 inch tape for bonding to the hull so you need to grind out about 4 inches from either side of the stringer. Then cover it all in biax. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: zachjeepyj
Date Posted: February-03-2010 at 12:55am
| This is what i read should this be the same method for capping the stringer off.Im not quite sure what biax is thanks.Never been on the warrior river we ride on logan martin hows the water. |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: February-03-2010 at 1:19am
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Here are some good links to a lot of the questions you will have. These are all links recommended to me by other members to read up on
http://billsboatworks.webs.com/ - Bill's Boatworks Here are some big hitters on stringer/floor jobs. My apologies to anyone I forgot. In no particular order: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9543 - Buffalo's '88 Barefoot Nautique http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5409 - Skibum's '87 Ski Nautique rebuild http://freewebs.com/billsboatworks - (and his website) http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12666 - aka's '83 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12301&KW=&title=water-behind-a-stringer - Wakeslayer's '68 Stang http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5635&KW=&title=a-351w-stroker-from-scratch - Joe in NY's all composite 60mph Nautique rebuild http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12717&KW=&title=79bfn - The Grinch's '79 BFN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13673&title=uks-78-sn - UK79's '78SN Also search for the Pumpkin Patch. Lots of good reading there too. The Warrior is probably an hour at least from Bham. Maybe more, I was young so who knows. There was plenty of butter water, and hard core old schoolers that would do stupid stuff like start off on skis off the top of the boat house. That was back in 1985-1989. The main thing is keep reading! ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: February-03-2010 at 2:13am
Eric, don't they paint larger boats anyway? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-03-2010 at 10:18am
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yes, gelling is an art just like leading a car body, it takes skill or the end result is alot of wet sanding. i truly will "spot in" boats with bc/cc and at the edge will melt the paint in with a melting agent ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-03-2010 at 11:19am
Um, that search shouldnt be too hard! ------------- |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: February-15-2010 at 3:04am
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Hows it coming Zach? Any snow down there in Birmingham? ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: zachjeepyj
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 1:03am
| My work has been so busy not complaining its been kind of slow,but i did get one side put in.I will post some pics, looks pretty good for a beginner.I did cut the glass down to about a 1/4 inch wasn't bad just plumbed it. Man that mat soaks up alot of epoxy. Had a hard time with the epoxy running so ive got to get some aerosil cabosil to thicken. Yeah we got about 2 inches of snow Friday and the kids loved it. We get excited about snow don't get much. |
Posted By: Andy
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 1:04am
I don't remember the last time I got hot silver shoes while spraying anything.  I haven't played with lead in about 15 yrs.
I've been told spraying gel is like spraying nasty high build primer. You know the type. Hard as hell to sand, one spot looks like glass, other spot looks like the surface of the moon. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3721&sort=&pagenum=6&yrstart=1982&yrend=1982" rel="nofollow - My Blue 82 SOLD! |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 1:23am
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Yep I remember the few times we got snow as a kid in Bham. Usually just ice storms! Hope you got to build a snowman with your kids. We got to here. I am still in the grinding the hull stage but making progress day by day. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 10:33am
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the old man was a leader, all high end cars, he was the best around...not much on personality though. sanding gel is like sanding a diamond. ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |