Boat stands- concrete blocks?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16344
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 4:40am
Topic: Boat stands- concrete blocks?
Posted By: jbenbri
Subject: Boat stands- concrete blocks?
Date Posted: January-23-2010 at 2:49pm
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I need to get my boat on stands to start removing stringers. I am scared to just leave it on the trailer. Anyone given this a try? Thanks.
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Replies:
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-23-2010 at 2:55pm
Yes, this is not hard, just time consuming.
You will need a floor jack & blocks or jack stands, some wood blocks & carpet to protect the gel coat.
Lower the bow all the way with the trailer jack, block the stern on both sides.
Raise the bow, block up the keel at the front. Level the trailer & you can pull it out some.
Removing the prop guard (if you have one) is advised.
You will have to jockey the supports a few times to get them past the trailer crossmembers.
Take your time & always double check your support before crawling under the boat.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin
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Posted By: ryanowen
Date Posted: January-23-2010 at 2:57pm
Yep. I used half cinder blocks and wood wedges. I put them down the center and along the sides. It was kind of nice because it lowered the boat and made it easier to get in and out.
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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3284 - 1988 Ski Nautique
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Posted By: jbenbri
Date Posted: January-23-2010 at 3:07pm
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How high did you stack them? It is a 83 SN and the trailer sits pretty high, about 30" or so. Won't I need to stack them about 4 high? I'm nervous they will want to rock.
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-23-2010 at 3:07pm
What kind of boat? If its a 2001 or newer Ski Nautique, then I appreciate your concerns. The older, smaller hulls arent nearly as susceptible to hull deflection with the structure removed though, in my opinion.
If youve got a nice flat, stable surface to put the boat (like a garage), then putting it on concrete blocks is just fine. Just make sure its stable... once the trailer is out from under it, you may want to lower it as much as possible so its not as tipsy. Make sure you put some wood between the blocks and hull to keep from scratching it up too.
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Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: January-23-2010 at 3:08pm
You do not need to remove the trailer. I did so mainly to get it out of the way so I wouldn't cover it with dust or fiberglass. What you do need to do is to block up the perimeter of the boat before removing the stringers. If the boat just sits on the trailer, when you remove the stringers, the running surface will flex just from sitting on its own weight. You can easilty block the boat up with cinder blocks, jack stands, wooden blocks, etc. leaving it just above the trailer. Perhaps even wiht the running surface just sitting lightly on the bunks. Level it, and then you are free to remove the stringers witht he trialer in place. BKH
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Livin' the Dream
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Posted By: jbenbri
Date Posted: January-23-2010 at 3:10pm
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I have a couple of jack stands and could come up with a couple more but they are just to short. What about the stands on top of concrete blocks and a 2x?
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Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-23-2010 at 4:12pm
Interesting that this comes up today. I am pondering what exactly I am going to do. I just traced out my stringers and will be standing the boat up today or first thing in the AM. I have large set of jackstands, but they are under my wife's convertible cause the trans needs to come out. I have a smaller set but they are way too small. I have a big pile of cinder blocks and think I will do just what you are talking about above. Blocks, stands, boards. I also have a bunch of popped motorcycle tubes I can cut and put between the boards and hull. Just for antislip, I do not care about hull scratches. I may notch the boards to set down on the cradled top part of the stand, and not be able to slip.
I am just going to lift it off the trailer, not remove the trailer.
Two under the transom semi close to the corner, and two under the windshield on the outer part of the bottom of the hull. I may put one safety block under the keel.
I am thinking a couple of us can just lift the boat up and adjust to level. I can easily lift the back end myself. Taking it down will obviously be a bit heavier.
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Mike N
1968 Mustang
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Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: January-23-2010 at 7:17pm
I've done this at least half a dozen times using snobsessed method with a little twist. If you happen to have an engine hoist you may be able to reach the bow lift ring, I've done this with my 81 and Mojo's Cuda. It makes for a few less steps moving the floor jack to get by the trailer cross members. You will still need the floor jack and blocks but it is easier. I've also used the hoist on the rear lift ring, just depends on what kind of room you have around the boat but it's like having a portable crane. I've unloaded my 81 by myself in about 15 minutes.
Removing the prop guard makes it easier but if you have a hoist just block the bow up off the trailer, go to the back, lift by the lift ring and roll the trailer out enough to block the stern. The prop guard is a non issue this way.
A cautionary disclaimer on the lift rings... Make sure you inspect them before using them. If you need stringers they may be suspect too.
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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails
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Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 3:35am
We took 95%+ of the weight off the trailer. Blocks and jackstands on rear corners. The front stands are at windshield and wedged on the outside edge of the hull. Left just enough pressure on the trailer to keep the boat steady. The hull is level side to side, and fore to aft.
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Mike N
1968 Mustang
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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 1:30pm
if you could afford 6 sheets of ply, you can make a cheap cradle, trace on carboard your transom angles and cut your 4x8 sheets down the middle and glue 2 halves together, use your cardboard as a guide and cut the angles. do this every couple of feet and then you can build a frame and put castors on the bottem. the guys at D and D marine do this and its very sturdy and allows then to move the boats when needed
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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