1983 Ski Nautique- Stinger replacement
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16422
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 5:44am
Topic: 1983 Ski Nautique- Stinger replacement
Posted By: jbenbri
Subject: 1983 Ski Nautique- Stinger replacement
Date Posted: January-31-2010 at 4:22pm
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Finally have the computer and camera cooperating. Boat is very clean but just like other boats of this era it is not immune to rot. I have one secondary out as of right now and I am hoping I can finish before I miss too much Spring/Summer. I do have a couple of questions.
1. What am I trying to get level? Stingers? Hull? 2. How much grinding do I still need to do on the one secondary I have removed? Thanks for the help. Ben 
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Replies:
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: January-31-2010 at 4:27pm
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Ben,
I leveled mine side to side. Check it in mutiple locations as the boat will twist. The floor is level side to side, and front to back. The floor may be slightly out of level as you go up under the bow. Obviously, the stringer run parallel to the floor, so if you level side to side off the floor, you can get good measurements and reference points. I did not level front to back. On my 82, the cutouts for the engine cradele were not parralel to the stringer and floor. The front of the cutout was about 3/16 of an inch taller than the rear. Don't know if you can visualize this. My stringers were complete rubble. Nothing to make a template from. So, it took me a couple of templates to get it right. BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: jbenbri
Date Posted: January-31-2010 at 4:31pm
A couple more pics
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Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: January-31-2010 at 4:32pm
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PS, it looks like you have ground deep enough to me. However, you probably want to grind back some of that painted surface, as well as the residual foam. Your fiberglass will extend out 3 to 4 inches from the stringer itself, and you want a good clean glass surface to bond with.
BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: jbenbri
Date Posted: January-31-2010 at 4:41pm
| I am a little thick and still confused on the leveling. Lay a level across the stringers in front of where the engine would be where the floor is and it is level. Stays level all the way to the back except where the gas tank sits. It is off a little bit there. I guess I need to measure to see if it has twisted or if the boards are just different heights. Thanks for the response. I'll take the rest of the paint/coating off too. Just wasn't sure how far to go beyond that point. I have read and re-read other threads but still end up sitting here scratching my head. |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: January-31-2010 at 5:08pm
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I know, tough to visualize. I'll try a different way.
The floor is level as origniall built. When you cut out the floor, you left a lip of an inch or two at the side of the boat. If you level from port to starboard at several points along the floor, then the boat should be level side to side. I also placed a level across the gunnels at several points to be sure I was level side to side. On you main stringer, the stringer steps down several times as you proceed from bow to stern. At the bow end of the main stringer, the top of the stringer is level to the floor, and the same height as the floor for about 18 inches. As you proceed toward the stern, the mainstringer takes its first step down. This is about 3/4 of an inch to accommodate the plywood which sits in the drivers area of the boat, and hangs over the engine compartment 6 or 8 inches. This cutout remains parralel to the floor. Next proceeding toward the stern, the main stringer steps down again to accommodate the engine cradle. On my boat, I found that this cut was not parallel to the floor. It began 1 and 3/8 deep at the bow end of the cradle, and was just under 1/4 at the stern end of the cradle. There are two small cutouts in the cradele section of the main stringer. Thes allow you to get the nut in to bolt the engine mounts onto the cradle. Again, traveling to the stern on the main stringer. Once past the crade mount, the stringer steps up again. The stringer is once again parallel to the floor, and is about 3/4 of an inch lower than the floor. This accommodates the plywood which sits across the stringer between the engine comparment and the gas tank. The engine hatch bolts into this piece of plywood, and the back seat sits on top of it. Finall, the main stringer steps up for the gas tank. I don't know if this helps or is a bunch of babble. Trying to capture in words. I took a couple of pictures yesterday, but my wife hasn't sent them to me yet. BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-31-2010 at 5:33pm
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Ben,
Measure and duplicate the existing stringers as close as possible and don't worry about using a level. The only place you would even want to use a level is checking port to starboard heights BUT the boat needs to be level to do that! In all the threads here on stringer jobs, I never recall ever seeing someone asking about a level. Keep it for a straight edge and rely on the tape measure. Have you had a chance to look through other stringer threads? Great reference! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |