Print Page | Close Window

Advice on carbs...

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16513
Printed Date: November-22-2024 at 6:27am


Topic: Advice on carbs...
Posted By: mdvalant
Subject: Advice on carbs...
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 2:52pm
2 things. I finally got a prop ordered from Delta. They are quick! The 4-blade that we use now is the ACME 654 4 blade 12.5X15 I purchased the 1442 today, excited to get that ice off the river.

BUT before then, Dad's 90 ski has been acting goofy last couple years. It has trouble starting like it's not getting fuel so we slam the throttle a little and then she roars to life. The carb has never been touched, and the fuel pump as not been messed with either. What advice do you guys have? When the boat is running at idle it is fine, plenty of fuel, when you put it down the 4-barrel opens nicely...pulling pyramids off the dock the boat kinda stalls out or "misses" a little like the tires spun a bit. I'm not sure what's causing that. But, anything you guys think of off the top of your head let me know so I can check all of those things. Thanks everyone!

-Mike



Replies:
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 3:13pm
Mike,
could be several things. Carb maybe need to be replaced, or you may have some bad points there. I had the same thing, but how does boat do when you put in gear? Does it stall out, or is it fine.. My boat when the carb was bad, and points, would die when put in gear, and would idle fine. You may have a bad carb if has never been touched..

-------------
1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson




Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 3:22pm
I was hoping to just pop a new holley on it...we'll see how much more advice I can get :)

The points? That's the thing...we went to electronic ignition a couple years ago to try to solve this problem... lol


Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 3:26pm
Yea get a little more advice on here, my guess it would be the carb.

-------------
1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson




Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 3:40pm
You need to check the timing before you do anything. After that, set the idle. If its still acting funny then you may need a carb rebuild.

-------------


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 4:01pm
The carb and dizzy are 20 years old.Bite the bullit and replace both with new units.A new Holley kit is just not worth the money if there is corrorsion present in the bowls. Karen can supply you with PCM parts that you need.318-299-8547

-------------
boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 4:21pm
Make sure all the intake bolts are tight as well as the bolts mounting the carb to the intake. Check the bolts attaching the fuel bowls to the main body of the carb. Your looking for a vaccum leak basicly or anything loose. Next you want to check the accelrator pump for proper operation, meaning you have a full stream of gas being squirted into the primary's for the full movement of the throttle, adjust/replace it as needed. Check and make sure the hose to the PCV is tight use a hose clamp if needed, check the hose for cracks replace there are, check the PCV and make sure it rattles when you shake it and there is vaccum on it when you cover your finger over then end, replace if there isn't vaccum or a rattle to it. Once that is all done, set the timing at 8-10 degrees BTDC,( no need to replace the dizzy as long as the mechanical advance is working correctly since you've converted all ready. Adjust idle mixture screws while the boat is in gear, set idle while in gear as well, this must be done in the water and not on the trailer. If the problem still exist, then pull the carb and have it rebuilt with Holley renew kit by someone that knows Carb's. Waist of cash buying a new one even if you have to replace the fuel bowls your still money ahead. Now if there isn't a reputal Carb specialist that will soak the disassenbled carb in a bucket of carb cleaner in your area, then you might want to go the new route and pay twice the price.

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 4:29pm
Same Chris just a different day.Penny wise and dollar foolish.
Time to change your avitar Chris, do you have a new one yet ?

-------------
boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 4:54pm
well guess my dad tought me how to rebuild a carb instead of replacing them but to each there own why charge them a couple hundered when you can jew them for 400 plus to replace it and save all that time rebuilding a prefectly good carb. Seen about one carb ever get tossed because it couldn't be rebuilt, couple needed new throttle plates which we just replaced with one we had on hand, but then The shop would rebuild about 3 or more a week too so you kinda get the hang of it after awhile, but then they where Quadrajets few more parts than what a holley actually has, little tougher to get right too so most would give up because they lacked the knowledge to do the job correctly. But what do I know guess I should have replaced mine enstead of rebuilding it.

40 bucks for a carb kit, 20 for the diaphram, 10 for the float, and zero for the know how. If you don't have the skills to rebuild it or know someone that does then I guess your not left with many options then are you, but to replace it right? But takes all of 10 minutes to pull the carb off the motor, another 15-20 to disassemble it, holley's take even less time, and set all the parts in a basket, another minute to place the basket in a bucket of carb cleaner to aggitate for half a day or longer depending on how dirty it was, then 5-10 to rinse and dry the parts, another 30 to reassemble and adjust the floats, accel pump and linkage. So for a couple hours labor and 80 some dollars in parts you have a carb that works good as new for years to come. But why save any money we all just like pissing it away like it's grown on tree's


-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 4:56pm
Thanks for the advice 79...

is something on your mind you'd like to talk about? We here on CCFAN are here for you!!!


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 5:00pm
Originally posted by mdvalant mdvalant wrote:

Thanks for the advice 79...

is something on your mind you'd like to talk about? We here on CCFAN are here for you!!!


nothing on my mind just don't subscripe to the theory it's better to spend more to get the same results. But then most don't have my background or access to equipement that I have.

My view point is to rebuild them Billy's is replace them to each there own.

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 5:03pm
Totally understandable. I agree with you, if it can be rebuilt easily and inexpensivly then it is worth the while to do it yourself. But, if you have never had to tear apart a motor like that...some people vote to pay just a little more and take the hassle and worry out of fixing it or not. I will talk to pops on this and see what he wants to do. We are capable of cleaning the carb up a bit ourselves...but we'll see. I really appreciate the advice fellas, let me know what else you have in store! Thank you!!!!


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 5:07pm
check the other stuff first make sure it's just not a tune-up issue, seems like slight adjustment needs to be made and not a complete rebuild otherwise it would be acting up all of the time and have some other issue too as well.

Where are you located at?

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 5:09pm
Bellevue, Iowa

You coming to fix it?   


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 5:22pm
Chris glad your back.....Can you spell E10, Have you opened up a 4100 in the last year after being exposed to our new fuels, a rebuild is only as good as the core.
Corrosion was so bad in the last one the power broke off in the metering block.What did the rest look like?
My point is 100.00 for parts, three hours labor , along with two twelve packs,this is the cheap way out.If it is too far gone the rebuild will be as bad or worse than before, a wasted week end and your wallet is 100.00 lighter.
But what do I know, your advice on PN has been a big hit over there too...Are you using the same pic over there too.............    

-------------
boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 5:47pm
Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:

Chris glad your back.....Can you spell E10, Have you opened up a 4100 in the last year after being exposed to our new fuels, a rebuild is only as good as the core.
Corrosion was so bad in the last one the power broke off in the metering block.What did the rest look like?
My point is 100.00 for parts, three hours labor , along with two twelve packs,this is the cheap way out.If it is too far gone the rebuild will be as bad or worse than before, a wasted week end and your wallet is 100.00 lighter.
But what do I know, your advice on PN has been a big hit over there too...Are you using the same pic over there too.............    


yea E-10 has been around since the 80's where I live it leaves a nice white residue in the bowls of the carbs not a big issue, the issue that causes the bowls to corrode is water and lack of a fuel and water seperator not the 10% alcohol content of the gas which is a major issue on boats but not cars,

So to recap if the boat has the proper equipement and maintainance you don't get water sitting in the fuel bowls to corrode them and they can be rebuilt just fine. But if not then you don't have many choices but to replace the bad parts or the whole thing right?, It's your money spend it the way you feel the most comfortable. Some run to a repair man I've just always have done what My Dad does and fix it ourself, it's nice having a tool box bigger than most peoples work bench but then if your a little short in the pritches your not going to be able to get the tools out of the top drawer either it's one of those Custom made to order professional type tool boxes you've seen the ones that are 8'x 6' haven't you? maybe not no since having something that large if you don't have the tools to fill up all of the drawers, but then that's not all the toys boxes either.

Always liked your scare tactic's and willingness to help them out with a phone number for parts. Guess somethings just don't change now do they Billy?

But then I don't treat my friends like some do either, that's why I go out of my way to help them and ask for nothing in return maybe a cold pop while I'm slaving away fixing stuff but pretty reasonable if you ask me.

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 5:59pm
Chris, seems that your TIME OUT IN THE CORNER did little for your personality or to deflate that EGO.Same Chris different day.The quite was good while it lasted, and membership actually increased in your Vacuum.Have a good day..........

-------------
boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 6:16pm
Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:

Chris, seems that your TIME OUT IN THE CORNER did little for your personality or to deflate that EGO.Same Chris different day.The quite was good while it lasted, and membership actually increased in your Vacuum.Have a good day..........


If you don't like the answers you get to your questions maybe you should refran from asking them in the first place then? If your going to live in a glass house you shouldn't start throwing stones now should you?

I was asked a question and cleanerly stated I opt to rebuild you opt to replace and was done, then what happened? Billy and his soap box so give it a break all ready.



-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 6:18pm
Hey kids, neither of you get a prize for which option I choose...just letting you know ;)

You guys sound like moomba owners.

sorry, that was a low blow ;)


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 6:25pm
Originally posted by mdvalant mdvalant wrote:

Bellevue, Iowa

You coming to fix it?   


If your up for shipping it out we can work something out. The main issue most have is they want to use a spray can of carb cleaner to clean the internals and that just doesn't cut it unless it's really a small amount of crud or a minor issue. Most of the time it needs to be soaked in a 5 gallon pale of carb cleaner and most don't want to spend the cash for a one time deal. It's harder to get and the majority of vehicles are fuel injected now adays so it's begining to be a lost skill.

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 6:31pm
Chris, what kind of carb cleaner do you soak it in? The last time I let a carb soak overnight it removed the chromate finish on the body and bowls, both inside and out. What a frickin mess.

-------------


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 7:01pm
I believe your issue was the time and not the cleaner, we never leave it in the cleaner more than 4-5 hours and with an aggitator(sp). there is a special lid you can buy that moves the basket up and down in the cleaner pnuematicly it really does the trick otherwise you have to leave it in too long and have the issue you saw.


http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=MCR6406_0006414466 - cleaner


it's simular to this but I don't believe it's the same brand and not water based I would have to stop by the shop and check If memory serves me wrong like always we actually used a GM brand in a 5 gal quanity that is not water based.

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-14-2010 at 10:28am
I bought a couple of gallons from napa, not even close to the stuff they made a few years ago, very weak

-------------
"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-14-2010 at 11:14am
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

I bought a couple of gallons from napa, not even close to the stuff they made a few years ago, very weak


Napa sold you the weak stuff due to liability concerns. They know you're not the greatest when it comes down to using PPE!!

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 10:28am
haven't read all the post but might wanna check out the fuel pump...maybe it's not working fine thus not delivering the needed psi to run the carb when all 4 barrels are open...had somthing like that in my boat, once..it would run fine..then when loaded for wakeboarding..when taking off it would die..had to squirt gas to fired it again..then it run fine..problems went away with a new pump

-------------
<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 2:20pm
Thanks for all the comments guys, can't wait to get the boat out this spring and start tuning it up. Got my 1442 ACME yesterday, I almost took it to bed with me.......


Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 2:32pm
Originally posted by mdvalant mdvalant wrote:

Thanks for all the comments guys, can't wait to get the boat out this spring and start tuning it up.

You and me both.. Come on April..

-------------
1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson




Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 2:32pm
Mike, I'm sure your girlfriend wouldn't care if she had to sleep next to a prop!

-------------


Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 2:35pm
Actually, she was the one that nixed that idea early...hahaha I did carry it around the house for about 2 hours... :)


Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 2:38pm
Its like christmas! I've got my new throttle knobs from BJ sitting on my desk here at work. They'll make great decorations till spring!

-------------


Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 2:45pm
Chris umm do I want a throttle knob for the 90 or are they all for the older models? Like the style of the CC and what not...


Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 3:00pm
Well my take on it is they can be switched in about a minutes time....so I've got one for both my Skier and Skit Tique and will probably get one for dad's 96.

-------------


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 3:01pm
The knobs fit the standard Morse thread size (I think 3/8-24). The knob with the medallion originally came on some early 80's boats, but will screw right on to any Morse Control you want.

-------------


Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 3:04pm
I figured they'd fit, but...do I want the old correct craft design on that boat? I'm a fan of keeping things with their times...do you have knobs with no writing? Or any with the newer Correct Craft Logo? Sorry, I'm pretty ignorant to these things, I saw them in a thread somewhere and thought they were awesome!


Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 3:39pm
keep it orginal..

-------------
1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson




Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 3:46pm
Originally posted by skicat2001 skicat2001 wrote:

keep it orginal..


I agree...but the are SOOO cool and they can be switched back quickly!

-------------


Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 4:08pm
I got a red one from BJ. I cant wait to put that new knob on there. Working on the boat this weekend. I finally got all my new hoses, I am also going to re-sand platform and teak oil it. I have some rust on both sides the exhaust manifolds, not the manifolds, but part connected to the engine to the manifold, if that makes since. Wire brush those, and repaint them. Then I be ready to go. But those new knobs should fit most older CC, and some of those in the 90's.

-------------
1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson




Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 4:41pm
Why did you just tell me to "keep it orginal.." when you have one yourself...?

Not calling you out or anything...it just seems kinda funny to me...


Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 4:46pm
I think they look orginal.. Just with a CC insert.. You aint calling me out..

-------------
1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson




Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 4:47pm
OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH I'm pickin up what you're puttin down...Good idea..



Print Page | Close Window