85 2001 Renovation
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16563
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 10:33am
Topic: 85 2001 Renovation
Posted By: LKG_
Subject: 85 2001 Renovation
Date Posted: February-15-2010 at 10:08pm
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Hey Guys
About 1.5 years ago I bought a Nautique Excel. Ended up doing quite a bit of work to it and it has been a great boat. CCF was a big help on that boat and I thank you guys for it. I picked up another Nautique this past weekend. This time it's a 1985 2001. It's a sweet boat. Engine has been rebuilt about 2 years ago. New (not rebuilt) transmission 2 years ago. Prop, prop shaft, bushings, and coupling replaced 1 year ago. The hull was wet sanded a year or two ago and it looks great. I'm in the process of fixing up the interior; something I did on my Excel as well. I'm going to use one thread for my questions as the come up rather than clogging the forum with a new thread each time I have a question. First question came up today when I gutted it. 95% of the floor is solid. The stringers are great. Looks like the previous owner was careful about drying it thoroughly between uses. This section of wood inside the red square is rotted though and I need to get it out, replace it, and glass over it again. What's the best way to cut it out? Not sure that I can be that exacting with a full-size circular saw, so I'm looking for suggestions.  ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Replies:
Posted By: critter
Date Posted: February-15-2010 at 10:28pm
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My choice for a cutting tool is a 4 1/2 grinder with a ceramic cutting wheel on it. You can also use the thin metal cutting blade.
With the clear guide off, you can get in to close quarters. Just must be very carefull with the safety guide off. By controlling the depth, you can just cut through the glass and then peel it off to see the wood underneath. Cut more if needed. Andy, I am in Raleigh also. More like New Hill. If you would like to borrow my grinder, I can loan it to you. ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique 1966 Barracuda |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: February-15-2010 at 11:52pm
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Critter...Thanks a lot for the offer. Now that I think about it I should have a cheap Northern Tool house brand grinder somewhere around here that should get the job done. It's been several years since I used it, but I think I'll be able to find it. If not I'll send you a message. ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: February-15-2010 at 11:56pm
Here's a pic of the boat taken today as I was gutting it...She's a beauty. Can't wait to get the interior stuff worked out.
 ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: akabulla
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 12:18am
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Tower and all huh very nice deal! You will love the wake the 2001 puts off!
Just like Critter said be careful if you remove the safety guard off the grinder. I took it off mine and when I was removing a stringer with the metal cutting wheel I had locked the button so it would stay on and kicked back and fell out of my hand and kept running. I saw my life flash before my eyes and had about 1 second to grab it before it cut a hole through my hull which wasn't easy with it bouncing around. I wear pretty thick leather gloves when using it. It will give a little protection! That is going to be a hard section to repair because that piece of wood goes from the battery box all the way to the engine compartment and goes from wall to wall. Here is a shot of mine when I was replacing it. It is pretty large: 
I am also in Raleigh so if you need any help let me know. If you do repair it I would recommend using Epoxy since it will bond to the polyester resin they used back then! |
Posted By: akabulla
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 12:24am
| Taking a second look at your picture it looks like someone already cut some of the wood away. It should continue over top of the cradle. Does it look like part of it was cut away? The dog house also comes up short of the ski pole so could you see the metal around ski pole or was it carpeted over? |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 12:35am
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I'm not sure if I'm going to replace the whole thing. The vast majority of the wood under the driver's seat and passenger seat is good.
I'll brainstorm a little after cutting out the initial bad section. I was thinking of using a 1/4" steel plate as a base sitting on top of that aluminum box that holds the ski pylon and tying in a piece of marine plywood with fiberglass on top of it. Not a perfect solution, but more of a solution that will hold up for 5-10 more years until the whole floor comes out. I may go gunwale to gunwale with the repair though. I'm open to suggestions and I might just wait until I get the rotten section of wood out first to decide. ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 12:38am
I hadn't noticed that it should all be one piece, but you're right. The wood over the cradle was raw wood with no glass. I pulled it out before taking the pic. I could see where someone put resin on top of the original glass around the battery box. Probably a quick fix to seal up a battery box that was allowing water to get into the floor. If I don't replace the whole section I'll be sure that the replacement piece covers the cradle and the rotten section so there is only one seam to join. ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Taking a second look at your picture it looks like someone already cut some of the wood away. It should continue over top of the cradle. Does it look like part of it was cut away? The dog house also comes up short of the ski pole so could you see the metal around ski pole or was it carpeted over?
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 12:44am
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The more I think about it the more it is making sense to just do the whole section though. I really don't want to do all that, but I guess I might. It would give me a chance to inspect the stringers underneath and it's probably worth the extra time. ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: akabulla
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 12:55am
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I agree! Can you take a larger picture of it? The battery box looks like it should be about 10 inches towards the bow. Maybe it was moved or maybe it just looks off because of the missing wood over the cradle. They might have removed the wood to get the cradle out for the rebuild but that would have been a little silly!
Here is an 85 that was rebuilt by Bill and you can see how far forward his battery box is. 
Usually a large source of water to get into the floor in that section is the drain in the battery box (if you have one). If you replace the entire section you could dig up some of that foam and look at the plumbing. That wood is probably rotten because they cut the wood out over the cradle and didn't seal up the edge correctly. I would start cutting and see how bad it looks but I bet it is pretty rotten all the way through. The seats screw into that section which is why it is wood and CC doesn't nothing to seal those screws going into it so the water just wicks into the carpet and down the threads of the screws right into the center of the ply in that section. I would use non-treated 3/4" ply if it isn't to thick. Coat it in lots of CPES and then one layer of epoxy and then put it back down and screw it into the stringers (if they aren't to rotten and will grab a screw) with stainless steel screws. Seal the top of the screws with epoxy and then and glass it back to the level of the floor. That will fix it for a while. The only thing to be careful of is if you do tear it out you might find rot in the stingers and be compelled to replace the entire floor. Sometimes ignorance is bliss 
There are lots of good threads on here for floor and stringer rebuilds. I have a pretty detailed one when I did my 82 with lots of pictures. |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 1:17am
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I really don't think the battery box was moved, but I guess you never really know. Is it possible that the battery might be in a different location from the factory? Maybe depending on whether it had the regular interior or the deluxe interior?
I'll look for signs of fiberglass work over the original hole, but I really don't think I'm going to find any. With evidence of previous work (separate wood section around ski pylon and extra fiberglass resin around battery box) I'm not going to rule anything out. The interior is about 5-8 years old. I guess it is possible that the whole floor was done then which would explain the difference in configuration and the fact that the rest of the floor is rock solid. It really looks like this one section is the only problem area on the whole boat. I'm not going to think on it too much...I just want to get it patched up really well so I can lay some fresh carpet on top of it and put the interior back in. As for bigger pics...I can post the first one in much larger resolution if that's what you want. Or I can take another tomorrow that is zoomed out to show proximity to the dash and engine. If you look at the original pic you can see the outline where the driver's seat was. It looks like the battery box is perfectly in line with the driver's seat. ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 2:34am
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Another question...Steering wheels and throttle knobs. How do I figure compatibility? Do I have to find a "teleflex" wheel or are there adapters to let me run whatever I want? What about a newer Correct Craft wheel with a splined shaft? Trying to keep this on a $150 budget max (preferably much lower) for both pieces. eBay is acceptable though which should help. I can refinish the original wood knob when I refinish the swim platform, but if it's a ~$20 piece I'll just replace it. ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 3:08am
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How about a $50 piece for one of BJ's throttle knobs? ------------- |
Posted By: Bremsen
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 12:00pm
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First, that missing section over the engine cradle is factory. There is a small 1/4" piece of ply that goes over the pylon and screws down to the cradle. Then the carpet is laid over it all. I'm not sure why it was done like that, but my 88 is identical.
Bills is an 87 and his battery box is in the same location as my 88. I think I remember the early boats had the battery closer to the engine. My floor is also a bit bouncy/soft in that area as well. I want to warn you that you will probably not like what you find under that floor should you pull the whole piece up. Mine has held up for a few seasons, but is now definitely showing signs of stringer rot now. I've got a couple more soft spots in the floor and some cracked glass on the secondaries near the exhaust. I just caution you since I honestly think you'll get in there and realize you need a complete stringer/floor replacement. IMO, if you want to use the boat this season, eat the cost of some lowes carpet/glue and put the interior back in to use the boat. Then, plan for to do a complete job in the next season or two. my $.02 As for the wheel, its a standard 3/4" keyed shaft. Just find any wheel with that hub and it will work. We picked up a nice one off ebay for <$100. Good luck with the project. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=923&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990 - Our 88 SN2001 |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 12:09pm
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The front floor layout on the 82-86 2001 is different than the 87-89. The later boats had the windshield and dash pushed forward, so everything shifted. Many of the earlier boats had dual battery boxes/coolers as well.
Morse throttle knobs use 3/8-24 thread (I think). Check BJ's knob thread to verify. All of the Teleflex Big-T helms (used in pretty much every CC from the mid 60's through 1990) used 3/4" tapered keyed shafts. Its a very common size. As far as the floor goes, stop digging right now and band-aid it back together if you dont want to replace the whole structure right away (floor and the stringers). The more you dig, the more rot you'll find. If your engine mount bolts are tight, then youre OK for a while- but dont think there arent major issues going on underneath. The "95% of the floor is solid" is a very common (and very naive!) response from unsuspecting owners... tear into one of these boats and you'll understand. Edit: Bremsen beat me to it! I agree with him 100%. ------------- |
Posted By: TRIP
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 12:20pm
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That hull looks good! Much better than our '85. Makes me want to do the wetsanding soon as well! ------------- http://www.flyzone-cr.com" rel="nofollow - FlyZone Costa Rica Wakeboarding http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=8406&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1997 Super Sport |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 1:14pm
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^ Thanks Trip. It does look great for an 85 with original paint. I plan to do it on my Excel this summer.
I assure you guys I'm not naive to what I'm going to find under the floor. As far as I see it I have three choices (four if you count the option to leave it as it was when I bought it, but that was never my intention.) 1. Replace the whole floor and probably the stringers too. Extensive time and probably another $2k in costs at minimum. I'd rather just sell it and let the next owner deal with it than do all that myself right now. 2. Patch up the floor by replacing the rotten section and carpeting over it. I bet this will cost me less than $100 and will at least make the floor feel almost 100% as I walk across it in normal use. 3. Re-carpet and have a floor that feels great everywhere except this one section that dips a couple of inches every time I step on it. Feel free to disagree, but I think it would be foolish to put fresh carpet over a rotten spot that is easy enough to cut out and replace right now while the carpet is out. You wouldn't replace your whole dock just because one deck board pulled out would you? Sure, it's a sign of things to come, but there is no reason to make a mountain out of a mole hill. ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 1:29pm
Im willing to bet that its not a sign of things to come, but rather a sign of things that have already come! Dig in a little if you want, but dont expect the rot to be very localized. That mole hill isnt so much a mountain- more like the tip of a glacier. 
Personally, I think it foolish to spend a few hundred in carpet to cover over a rotten structure- but thats just me! If you dont want to tackle the project, then band-aiding it back together as best you can is an option for sure. It will likely not lead to more damage for some time... but dont expect us to call it a proper repair. FYI, there is no paint on the exterior of your boat- the stripe is gelcoat. ------------- |
Posted By: akabulla
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 1:34pm
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I think you asked the wrong group this question .
Most people on this site including myself love to chop these boats up and rebuild them so I would tear it up and rebuild it. Tim has a little more self control in his answers even though I know he would like to do the same  , but I agree with the majority. If it was right at the end of ski season then I would say go for it but ski season is coming up fast so I say just fix it.
If the wood isn't rotten all way through you could dig out the rotten wood and fill it with epoxy mixed with microfiber. Get it nice and level and then reglass and carpet it. That will make it last for a least one season. |
Posted By: akabulla
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 1:35pm
| HA, that is funny. Didn't see your response till after my post Tim. LOL! |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 2:01pm
You guys are harsh. I'm sticking with 1993 and later boats from this point on. 
I'd imagine that I can re-use the carpet a few years down the road if I do decide to rip out the whole floor. Every time I've pulled carpet up on a boat it has come out clean with no tearing; so it's not a total waste if I do decide to do a more thorough repair in the future. The carpet that was in there was nasty. It was flattened down. It had tons of stains and one section where some kind of solvent had eaten it away leaving raw floor underneath. Had the interior looked halfway decent I would have left it as it was and not worried about it. Since I am replacing the carpet anyway I plan to fix this little section and roll with it. ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: akabulla
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 3:28pm
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Sorry man didn't mean to sound to harsh! It is just the reality of these older boats. Almost all of them will have rotten stringers and floors at this point unless the boat was only used a handful of times and keep in a dry warm place.
If you want cheap carpet go to Lowe's. They have really nice grey outdoor / marine carpet. I used it in mine and it came out looking really good. 
It is a little thinner than standard marine carpet but it still works pretty well and the best part about it is if you need to get more you just drive down to lowes! Good luck man and take some pictures if you do tear out that section! |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 3:46pm
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^ That looks great. I've used Lowes carpet in the past and been pretty happy with it. On my Excel I did heavy weight carpet on the floor from some internet site, but I did the gunwales in the Lowes stuff. The color was a perfect match and I saved some cash by doing it that way.
I was just joking on the harsh thing. I take it all with a grain of salt. ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 3:48pm
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By the way, what's the best tool you guys have found for putting the rubber strip back on the carpet where it joins the floor and the gunwales? Last time I used a metal spatula, but I'd probably buy the right tool if there is a better way. ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: Bremsen
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 4:02pm
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I'm not saying you have to do the full stringers/floor now. My opinion is if the motor still bolts to the stringers then you can get by for a few seasons with or without a repair. I figure its all or nothing with the floor and stringers so no reason in messing with it until you can completely gut it. I just don't think I would cut out the piece, but you may be able to epoxy/glass it and or brace it from underneath to stiffen it up for the time being (<- I have a feeling hollywood will be all over this one)
When we re-did our vinyl/carpet (feb-apr 07) I noticed a couple questionable spots as well. Much to Tim's chagrin (;-)), we made the decision to move forward without touching the floor/structure, but I knew (even if I didn't admit it at the time) the inevitable was coming. I don't think we had $200 in carpet/glue when we did it last time so I felt it wasn't worth worrying about should it need replacing again when the stringers/floor get done. We were able to get 4 more seasons out of her (incl 2010) and will be doing the planning/preparing this year for the rebuild over next winter. IMO, it was worth it. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=923&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990 - Our 88 SN2001 |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: February-22-2010 at 11:28pm
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Alright guys...Made some progress this past weekend.
Cut out the bad section with an angle grinder... 
Made a two layer brace for the floor. Bottom layer is made of two 2" wide 3/8" thick steel bars. Stacked on top are two more 1.5" wide 1/4" thick steel plates. Since there is no lateral pressure I used liquid nails to hold it together rather than welding. This combo was almost exactly the same height as the ski boom cradle. Painted them with industrial red enamel to keep the rust to a minimum. It slid right under the floor and rests on top of the stringers. 
Cut a piece of plywood to shape. Went with one piece to cover the floor section and the cradle. It had a separate piece of wood over the cradle from the factory. Made a cardboard template first and then transferred it onto the board. 
Fiberglassed over it bringing the edge of the fiberglass over the battery box. This made the battery box cover a super tight fit, but it should keep water from penetrating that edge again anytime soon. 
Grinded down the high spots in the fiberglass. Sealed the rest of the battery box/fiberglass edges with 3M marine sealant. 
Lessons learned... The stringers in the small section that I could see were in good shape. They were a little slimy from staying wet for a while, but I was pleased that they did not seem to have any rot. The floor has zero spongy spots now. I can walk the whole boat bouncing up and down and the whole thing feels great. I re-carpeted the gunwales and floor using "Midnight Marine" carpet from Lowes. Bought 31', but found out after the fact that I could have gotten away with about 27'. The whole job took a weekend, but I ran out of light on Sunday and have a few things to finish later. At least half of Saturday was wasted on trips to Lowes and Home Depot after I had trouble finding a store that had enough carpet on hand. I also still have to put in the rubber trim piece for the carpet and re-carpet the transmission cover and wood piece behind the back seat. I expect it to take one more full day to complete (including putting the interior back in.) I'll have to figure up the total cost later, but it will look something like this: - Steel plate bars - Lowes...$45. - Fiberglass mat + resin - Home Depot...$20 - 3M marine sealant - Home Depot...$7 - 31' of carpet - Lowes...$156 - 4 Gallons of outdoor carpet glue - Home Depot...$34 - Trowel - $8 - Replacement SS screws, nuts, bolts, etc - Lowes...$14 This is not a permanent solution by any means, but I suspect it will add quite a few years to the service life of the current floor/stringers. I'm pretty happy with this considering the fact that new fir stringers and a new floor made of marine plywood would set me back at least $2k and a full week of work. It looks like I have enough carpet and glue left over to do my buddy's bass boat, so hopefully I'll get some good karma out of the deal for helping out a friend. ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: akabulla
Date Posted: February-22-2010 at 11:52pm
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Looks good to me! Should hold up for a while.
BTW you might rebuild the floor and strings for 2K but it would probably take about a month to do it. I worked on mine every night and weekend (sometime during the weekday) and it took me about 1.5 months. Good job! Next time I am up at Gaston I will shoot you a message! |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-22-2010 at 11:53pm
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you are watching too much "my name is earl" LOL...
One full week for a full stringer job? I'd say at least one month in the minimun... ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: akabulla
Date Posted: February-22-2010 at 11:55pm
| Ha kapla! We are spending to much time on this site together next we will be finishing each others ..... |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: February-23-2010 at 12:36am
Yeah, you're probably right. I was just thinking a week of working full time on it, but even that is probably being a little too optimistic.
Send me a message if you're coming to Lake Gaston this summer. I'm usually tied up at an island near Eaton Ferry with a handful of other wake boats during the day. I'll put my e-mail address in my profile. I'll probably take it for a spin at Falls Lake in about a month when I get it all back together if you want to check it out. ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: February-23-2010 at 1:26pm
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Just for discussion sake, you ain't getting anywhere near half done in a week. It just isn't possible. It is easily 150 hours, more like 200 if you have never been in there before. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Pgaboeing
Date Posted: February-23-2010 at 1:55pm
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LKG, I have interior out of a 92ski if you are interested. Drivers Seat, Seat Base, Observes Seat, Seat Base, Swing arm assembley for observers base, Corner bolster, and side combing pads. Motor Box also.
Make Me a respectable offer and Its all yours. Pgaboeing |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: February-23-2010 at 4:26pm
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Sounds like the "deluxe" interior. Do you have the actual seats or just the skins? This boat has the really basic interior with no corner pad and no bolstering in the seats, so I don't think just skins would work.
What color and what condition are they in? Where are you located? ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-23-2010 at 4:44pm
ccf its addictive ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: February-25-2010 at 1:56pm
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Does anyone know if the steering wheel from my 1993 Excel will fit the 85 Ski Nautique? The Excel is almost two hours away right now so I can't just pop it off and check it. I might move the steering wheel from that boat to the 85 and put the nice new one on the Excel instead.
What about the throttle knob? ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: February-26-2010 at 12:36pm
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^ Still interested in an answer to that question if anyone has one.
Also, the boat came with an extra used prop shaft that I'd like to sell in the classifieds. Any idea what it's worth? The previous owner had some vibration so he sent the prop for balancing/repair. That didn't fix it so he replaced the prop shaft, coupling, supports, and bushings. Still didn't fix it, so he just lived with it. Then he nailed something that destroyed the prop. He put on a new prop and the vibration was gone. Presumably, this spare prop shaft is fine, but I'd give the new owner 30 days to install it, test it, and return it if it's no good. Not trying to burn anybody. ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-26-2010 at 5:04pm
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throtle know I´m positive it will fit the same...about the wheel no clue...
------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: February-26-2010 at 8:38pm
Thx Kapla.
Is this chrome piece a steering wheel adapter? Did it come from the factory or is this an aftermarket piece? Is it just pressed on? I want to make sure I won't mess anything up before I put a steering wheel puller on it and start cranking. I picked up a nice Momo Marine wooden wheel from eBay with what looks like the correct adapter. I hope it fits, but for the price I got it I can buy a new adapter. ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: akabulla
Date Posted: February-26-2010 at 8:47pm
| It is from the factory and it is just pressed on with the key holding it in. You should be able to pull it straight out and it will come off. |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: February-26-2010 at 8:50pm
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I didn't see the key, but is it something I need to remove first or do I just pull it off? ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-27-2010 at 10:42am
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What's still on the helm shaft is part of the wheel. It's just the center hub and not a adapter. Some hubs are part of the wheel and some will unbolt from the spokes like yours.
The hub will pull off with a plate type puller. It's on a taper just like a prop. You'll probably find a "Woodruff" key (half round) set in the shaft and the reason you can't see it now. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 6:49pm
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The 1993 boat has a different steering shaft. It has 19 splines rather than the tapered key. Anyone know what this shaft type is called? I think I might buy the adapter for it and put this new steering wheel on there anyway. It's a Momo marine wheel that appears to be mahogany. It didn't look right on the 85, but it looked great on the 93 with the contoured dash and everything.
Also, do you think one of these generic Grant wheels will fit on the hub that comes with the 85 Nautique without needing an adapter? Something like this is what I was thinking: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRT-415/ - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRT-415/ After looking at some of their products I'm pretty sure the wheel that was on the boat when I bought it is a Grant, but it is done...Rust on the spokes and the handle is wrapped with electrical tape. Looks like junk. ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: malibud
Date Posted: March-12-2010 at 3:04pm
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I have an 85 2001 and need a prop shaft mine is bent 35/1000 I would be interested in yours (assumming it is straight) if you still want to sell it. I took mine to a machine shop and they checked it. maybe we can work something out. just let me know .
thanks Dan |
Posted By: SKI NH
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 3:19am
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akabulla is right. I noticed right away that the battery box is too far aft. Someone's been in there ahead of you ------------- SKI NH |