Beautious Teak
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16576
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 6:33am
Topic: Beautious Teak
Posted By: 88Bishop
Subject: Beautious Teak
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 1:56pm
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Hello all, what a great site for a guy like me!
I have serious issue taking care of the teak trim strips and swim platform in an 1988 ski nautique. Either I do not oil it enough and it dries out halfway through the summer, or I over oil it and it becomes very slick when wet (bad for the swim platform, and my backside!). When looking at the new boats on the nautique website, the wood trim looks dry, clean and beautiful. Is that teak? Can I sand down my teak and leave it untreated to get that smooth look, or do I need to practice my oiling techniques...and what are the preferred techniques, sanding between coats, apply with a brush, rag, how long should it soak before excess is wiped off? I have followed the directions on the bottle of oil, yet I am still unsuccessful. Thanks for the help, I am going to a boat show in Grand Rapids, MI this weekend, so I will have lots of questions for the reps. |
Replies:
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 2:33pm
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This is a good set of instructions. I will be trying this for our Mustang before Spring.
http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=150097&postcount=28 - Swimdeck refinishing ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: February-26-2010 at 12:28pm
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^ I sanded mine last year using the grits that they recommended, but without applying the teak sealer and letting it dry in between each grit. Total time gets knocked down significantly when you can just go from one grit to the next without waiting for it to dry between each step.
I followed up with teak oil as I couldn't find any teak sealer at the time. It looked great for the first half of the summer with periodic application of the teak oil, but by the end of the summer the lake water and sun was taking its toll. The wood was starting to lose that "golden" look. The plan for this year is to scrub it with teak cleaner, wet sand with 2000 grit, and re-apply using teak sealer this time. I think the sealer will make it last longer than just plain teak oil. ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-26-2010 at 5:10pm
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I redid my swim platform last year, cleaned with teak cleaner, grit startd with a rough one and went to a finer one, teak oil then grit again, total 6 coats of oil, last coats took almost a day to soak. Up to date it has its the golden look and no signs of fadind yet.
One thing is my boat is stored under cover so only contact with water and sun light is when being used!!! ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: February-26-2010 at 5:22pm
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Keeping it out of the sun ALL SUMMER is key. ------------- |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: February-26-2010 at 5:45pm
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All the recent discussions I have seen about reviving a platform, including the TMC reference above talk about sanding. I thought there was a school of thought that sanding was discouraged or to be avoided because the fine material generated plugs the pores in the wood and interferes with the oil soaking in. That school of thought also includes aggressive cleaning with teak cleaner and a brass wire brush rather than sanding. Are there just two schools of thought, both of which have merit? I know last time I did mine (without sanding) it lasted about two weeks before fading. ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: 88Bishop
Date Posted: February-26-2010 at 6:06pm
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hmm...well, my platform has religiously spent all summer in direct sunlight, so maybe its not my methods, just the abuse it takes. I got a new cover at the end of last year, it covers the platform. Hopefully that will make the difference when I get her back in the water, she is getting new stringers first! ------------- |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: February-26-2010 at 6:58pm
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Bishop,
I put sealer on mine last summer and I wish that I did not do it. I put on a NATURAL Color Sealer and it made the teak look mustard / yellowish color. Now it keep the finish all year, but I did not like the color. Jamestown Distributors has a Sealer Stripper and a CLEAR sealer that I am going to try this year. I have heard that the sealer is tought to get off. I also followed the instructions that the Mastercraft guy posted. I hope this helps, Donald |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: February-27-2010 at 12:11pm
Larry, I've tried every way possible to get and keep my platform looking beautious, it always looks perfect when I'm done but doesn't last much longer than anyone elses. From what I could tell my oil was just not soaking into the old teak well enough to give any real protection so last time I redid the platform I went at it with sandpaper. This was by far the best result I have ever had BUT after sanding with my final grit which was only 220 (NOT 2000)I went through the teak cleaning process again to open all the pores. Another key to doing this job correctly is the platform MUST be absolutley dry beofre oiling and I mean a week after the wash job. Then I oiled once a month through the winter, after four thin coats of oil I can still see it soaking in which is exactly what I want. Then during tHe season I will recoat again with a thin layer of oil a day or so after the boat has been used. We typically only go out on weekends so I will coat the platform on a wednesday and it won't get wet again for a few days. Also over applying is bad and where the slippery platforms come in, the oil just doesn't soak in and gums up on the surface of the teak. I'm not an authority on this but these are my experiences. I avoided sanding for a few years and never liked the results, the key is the grain must be open to receive the oil and I don't beleive the chemical cleaners do a good job of it. My best results were a combination of both methods. ------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails |
75 Tique wrote:Posted By: 88Bishop
Date Posted: March-02-2010 at 1:05am
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Thanks Donald,
So do you oil the wood before you seal it? Should I be starting the sealer process after oiling the wood, or do I need to clean it and dry it first? |
Posted By: 88Bishop
Date Posted: March-02-2010 at 1:06am
| Not positive I am gonna use a sealer or not, but I do want any and all details |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: March-02-2010 at 1:18am
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Bishop,
I first used the Star Bright three step process. Cleaner, Brightner and Teak Oil. I then put another five coats of Starbright Teak Oil on the wood before I sealed it. The Star Bright Natural Sealer was the last step. I let each step dry before I did another one. It was a long process. I hope this helps, Donald |
Posted By: 88Bishop
Date Posted: March-02-2010 at 1:27am
| Don't know when your gonna get to it, but let me know how you like the clear. I hope it turns out better than the natural |
Posted By: 89Ski_Nautique
Date Posted: March-03-2010 at 3:04am
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Shelby,
In general I follow the same steps as Alan pointed out with very good results and never have used a sealer. The least abrasive grit I have used is 220 as well, never 2000 as indicated Swimdeck refinishing instructions. When I took delivery of this boat one of the previous owner(s) used a stain/varnish combination that had to be completely stripped/removed with sanding and then followed up the 3 step Starbrite kit. Listed below are photos of the swim platform after stain/varnish removal, cleaner, brightner and and five (5) coats of teak oil. 
Listed below are photos of the gunnel accents after stain/varnish removal cleaner, brightner and five (5) coats of teak oil. 
 ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4577&sort=&pagenum=1 - 1989 Ski Nautique Former Boats: 1988 Dominique 1993 Ski Nautique |