DA Sander
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16661
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 6:40am
Topic: DA Sander
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Subject: DA Sander
Date Posted: February-27-2010 at 3:52pm
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Hey guys,
I was at Home Depot this morning and spontaneously got a DA sander. Then struggled to find stick on discs, then went to NAPA, and they had some stick on's. Then dug through the 3M catalog, then went back to HD and returned the sander as I decided I needed to do more research. The sander I initially bought was a Husky, was $59, and had a 3 year warranty. Because Husky is an HD brand, I can just go and get a new one at the store if it craps out. It will only crap out on a Saturday afternoon, I imagine. From what I could deduce from the 3M catalog, you need hook and loop to get up to the 1500 2000 and such grits. In fact, the stick ons appeared to only go up to 500. Just for example, I found http://grizzly.com/products/6-Dual-Action-Air-Sander/H8215 - this one for $39 and get a hook and loop pad for another $10. They all seem fairly similar as far as RPM, weight, PSI rating, etc. What do you recommend and why? Also, where to get the discs at a reasonable price? Thanks ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Replies:
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: February-27-2010 at 4:12pm
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You need a pretty big compressor to push a DA for very long. I've got a 30 gallon, 6 HP and it craps out pretty quickly under the load of a DA.
I would stop by a local Auto Body shop and see where they get their disks. It's been years since I've bought any, but my Dad used buy them all the time, and I'm pretty sure we had some very fine grits. Edit. One other thing. Most of the hook and loops have holes in the pads. The stick ons tend to be an uninterupted surface. BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-27-2010 at 5:02pm
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Mike,
Unless you have a big compressor like Brian mentioned. I'd go electric. Porter Cable would be my choice. Everything is going H&L. You can even get wet/dry pads! If you do go compressed air, you must look at CFM's and not HP's. The HP's scam on compressors at the home improvement/hardware store to the public is truly a joke. The are listing "peak" HP's and that has nothing to do with what CFM a compressor will produce. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: February-28-2010 at 10:52am
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I believe these are the specs for the compressor I have:
33 gal 130 max scfm 14.2 scfm @ 40psi 9.9 scfm @ 90 psi It is a 6.5hp, 33gal twin cyl, 240V I need to verify the above, but if the spec on the sander is ~ 4cfm, wouldn't that be adequate? Or am I going to be a victim of misleading label statements? Just for the heck of it, I wet sanded three small areas on the SN yesterday. And WOW! I did it with a crappy little orbital electric. I am not really into the idea of wetsanding the whole thing with an electric sander. I have a lot of checking on the deck, and some waterline cracks and such, but it would make the boat somewhat presentable and let me put off the entire re do on the hull for a year or two. I have more time than money. I am not yet comfortable with the idea of doing the gel myself. That may change, but if you asked me today, the answer is no way!! I used 100 and 220 dry, then 400/600/1000/1500 wet, buffed, waxed. I was amazed what the areas looked like in comparison. While I know this is how it works, I have never had to do it before. I did the "E" on the port side, about 18 inches of the port gunnel near the transom, and about a square foot of the bow deck. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-28-2010 at 11:15am
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fwiw, we use hutchins DA, and thats one place you dont want to skimp becasue of its great orbital action they use a low volume of air to operate, hook it pads with foam in between so you dont burn corners. I end with 2000 so you buff less, a little palmolive in the water and a good hand squeegee to chech your progress. 600 is a good starting point because anything less will give you deep scratches and leads you to more sanding. Gel is deep so you can hog it but stay away from the corners. 3m finesse or heavy cut rarely cleaning the pad.i have more hours behind a buffing wheel than my car...thats why im mentally challenged, to much idle time looking at a white surface ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: February-28-2010 at 1:33pm
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So wait, you guys wetsand with actual sanders? Pardon my ignorance but I thought you had to do everything by hand?
I'm going to try and do the whole boat on the Ski Tique this spring since its got some yellowing on the hull and some funky accents someone added years ago. ------------- |
Posted By: lonestar
Date Posted: February-28-2010 at 1:34pm
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Stupid question ? When you guys are sanding and buffing, do you go right over the stickers ? i.e. on my 88 the stickers are really washed out and the blue needs a good buffing to bring it back to life; Do I need to avoid the stickers so not to damage them or is there a chance buffing might breath some life into them as well ? ------------- lonestar |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-28-2010 at 1:41pm
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If you sand or buff those stickers, they'll only get 'cleaner'! I just use a wet rag, but mine are shot out too. I'm going to have them made sometime this year...time allowing. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-28-2010 at 2:58pm
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yes wetsand with a DA, ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-28-2010 at 2:58pm
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Chris,
Yes, I actually wet sand with a electric RO. Spray bottle in one hand and sander in the other. Mike, The specs on your compressor are telling me you have a true 6.5 HP. Even though you didn't give me the amps, the 230 is saying you're not just plugging it in to a 15 amp outlet. You should be fine running the DA but, tell me how much your next months electric bill goes up!! 
EDIT: Mike, Get the amps off the motors nameplate when you get a chance. There's really no such thing as a 6.5 HP. 5 yes but some manufacturers in the HP race will push their compressors to the max. They do this by using the S.F. (service factor) of the motor. There should be a S.F. on the nameplate to. It will be anywhere from 1 to 1.25 ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-28-2010 at 9:11pm
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Chris, FWIW, I always wetsand by hand. I may try an electric on our junk Skier since the entire thing (hull and deck) needs serious attention... the paint will be coming off before long. ------------- |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: February-28-2010 at 10:47pm
Im with you on this one Tim. I have always wet sanded (cars and boats) by hand in a cross-hatch, X pattern. I think its the best way to fair something. I have rubber sanding blocks 5" and 8" long. Sometimes,I even use a paint stir stick cut to about 4" or 5" long, wrapped with the sandpaper. Use your fingertips on each end of the stick to let it flex with the curvature of the hull. Slower, but Easier to get the "feel" for what is cutting. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
TRBenj wrote:Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-28-2010 at 10:52pm
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Steve,
I'll clarify my use of electric. I'll run the electric for the bulk and courser grits and then switch to a hard block wet sand by hand for the final sandings. When you are putting coat after coat of a spar varnish on, it really cuts down the sanding times. It also easier on the finger tips!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: March-01-2010 at 12:10am
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From what I have read when you use a DA like the Huttchens it doubles you sanding grit size ie 1000 becomes 2000. I DA'd my stern last year before GL,it turned out awesome. Here is one place Mike that has disc's http://www.tptools.com/Product.aspx?display_id=1803 - Tip Tools
I never ordered these from them yet,but use them for sand cabinet supplies. If you find discs cheap with no glue,or cut your own, 3m makes a glue for that, #08051 ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: lonestar
Date Posted: March-01-2010 at 12:33am
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Thanks for the help guys. ------------- lonestar |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-01-2010 at 12:35pm
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For the purpose of simply cleaning up the Nautique and making it passable, I will be using a pneumatic sander. Obviously, I will have to hand sand the curves and corners. I will post a photo of what 20 minutes got me later.
Pete, I will try and look at the compressor motor tonight for the SF. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: March-01-2010 at 12:59pm
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Thanks for the input guys, I've been hand sanding but also have plenty of time till summer. I'd be a little worried to use a RO on the boats. ------------- |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-01-2010 at 1:28pm
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I did this in about 20 minutes with an orbital. 100/220 dry 400/600/1000/1500 wet. Meguiars 49, then wax.
I was just messing around seeing what it would look like. I did a couple other spots, too. Totalling a little over an hour.  ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-01-2010 at 6:09pm
Mike, Looking over the figures again and I now take back my statement that I think you'll be ok with the DA and your compressor. I feel you too have become a victim of the misleading compressor HP wars. What through me was the voltage (230) but doing a more detailed look at the CFM's, it looks like you may have a true 3 HP compressor (which would need 230). The amps on the nameplate will tell for sure. The thing that really got me after some looking was the CFM needs of a DA sander. I did find one that did state 4CFM BUT it also states 17 CFM at load. Another DA listing also states 17 CFM at load. The 9.9 CFM,s not going to do the job. With a compressor running so much, you take the chance of burning it up. With the exception of a rotary screw compressor, all piston types have duty cycles. IE: time on and time off/resting. So, you don't like the idea of running a electric wet!  I don't even have a GFI!! We are not talking about lots of water here. In a spray bottle, just a misting to keep the abrasive from clogging up.------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: March-01-2010 at 6:28pm
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Mike, looks great! I'd imagine your hands got pretty cold wetsanding out in the elements! ------------- |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-01-2010 at 6:32pm
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Chris, I did it inside before I rolled the boat out there. I am kind of done with it for a while. I just happened to notice the reflection and thought it was pretty cool.
Pete, I will look at the compressor. I am sure the electric would be fine, but..... ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: March-01-2010 at 6:48pm
| Mike, why you had to do so many steps. I thought wet sanding was only a few steps. Do think the 1500 was fine enough? I have a DA from HF and I cannot run it constantly. Not enough CFM from my little 20gal compressor. Looks great. I am getting motivated to mine this spring. |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-01-2010 at 7:08pm
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You should see how terrible the hull is. I was just playing though. I have never done it before, and wanted to see what it would look like. the 100 was pretty much just to get the painted letter off.
I plan on getting the hull refinished, but if I can spend 50-60 hours sanding it and delay that expense for a season or two, I am going to do it. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: March-01-2010 at 7:21pm
 I think the checks and cracks on the old boats give them character!
I'm sure you saw http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4537 - Roger's at GL? ------------- |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: March-01-2010 at 8:44pm
| I agree, once you get the rest of the hull looking like that spot, you'll probably stand back and say: Oh Yeah!!! |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-01-2010 at 8:49pm
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I already did that with just a couple little spots. I can't wait to see it done. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Waldo
Date Posted: March-01-2010 at 10:35pm
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Thats pretty amazing on what you can bring back. Chris did the same with his blue skier. At one point I thought Chris had his boat repainted.
Waldo |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: March-02-2010 at 11:38am
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Hey Mike,
I'm in cahoots with a couple of 3M guys here at work as they have a rep on site. I can talk em up for some info and prob even some samples. I'm also in pretty good with the supplier who supplies DAL all there sanding stuff. I might be able to pull a few strings for you. Give me a call if I can help. ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-02-2010 at 12:33pm
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Hey Tim,
I will do that. I am a few weeks away from really getting after it. I need to get all my other projects done. I cannot wait to see what it looks like!! ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Andy
Date Posted: March-03-2010 at 1:11am
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I used to buy 3M stik-it film from 400-2000. Now, I've been converted to the interface/hook-it setup. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3721&sort=&pagenum=6&yrstart=1982&yrend=1982" rel="nofollow - My Blue 82 SOLD! |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-03-2010 at 9:16am
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with the hook it you dont waste paper, unlike the glue once you remove the paper it goes to the trash, and the hook it you can keep switching back and forth to the grit you need, it saves a ton of money in the long run
------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |