Dewinterize Check-List
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16754
Printed Date: November-13-2024 at 9:45pm
Topic: Dewinterize Check-List
Posted By: jackkloepfer
Subject: Dewinterize Check-List
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 3:24pm
I'm getting ready to prep my boat for the spring, and I was hoping some of you might share a list of the things/checks you do when dewinterizing. Still a bit of a CC newby here, so any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks, this is an awesome site!
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Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 3:35pm
I clean up the battery terminals, hook it up, start the engine and make sure I have oil pressure and cooling water. This of course is if all the drain plugs and hoses were reconnected after winterizing!
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Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: jackkloepfer
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 3:48pm
Thanks!
do you do an oil change even if you're still below 50 hrs from last season?
what about V-drive oil?
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 4:06pm
Oil (both engine and transmission- probably v-drive too) should be changed in the fall, regardless of engine hours. You dont want it sitting in your engine all winter with acidic byproducts. Probably too late now, but worth thinking about for next year! For this year, yes, Id change it before the season.
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Posted By: jackkloepfer
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 4:10pm
Thanks!
Also, and I'm embarassed to admit it, I did NOT pull the plugs before winterization. I was under the impression that I simply had to run an antifreeze/water mix into the engine.
Should I be concerned?
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 4:17pm
jackkloepfer wrote:
Thanks!
Also, and I'm embarassed to admit it, I did NOT pull the plugs before winterization. I was under the impression that I simply had to run an antifreeze/water mix into the engine.
Should I be concerned? |
Yes, you should be concerned but also what part of the country are you in? How cold did it get and for how long? Was it stored inside?
Hopefully you'll be good. Next year plan on a drain and fill with antifreeze. There's some great threads on the process. It's pretty simple. We do not recommend the "pump through" method. Too big of a chance you won't get all the areas of the block protected properly.
You said you used a water/anti freeze mix. What was it and what type?
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64 X55 Dunphy
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Posted By: jackkloepfer
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 4:35pm
Brainard,
It did hit some pretty cold temps here over the winter. I'm out of Indianapolis, and the boat was kept with the cover on, and wrapped in a tarp outside.
I did 50/50 water and antifreeze. I'm not sure what type it was, but I asked around for what to look for, and autozone pointed me to some. It was red in color, if that helps.
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Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 4:37pm
Yea I be worried, if you did not pull them plugs.. You could have cracked the block, or manifolds.. Hell, if I dont winter my boat in Houston, I get worried.. We got global warming going on down here!!
------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson
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Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 4:40pm
Matter of fact, do you guys like the drop light in the canopy.. I dont! What if you a breaker blow or something?
------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson
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Posted By: tullfooter
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 4:45pm
Not to be a "glass half empty" guy, but you might want to start praying.
There are many threads about the winterizing process. I won't give my opinion, but even with a pure antifreeze going into the engine, there is still the chance of having an issue. Hopefully you ran about 40 gallons of the 50/50 mix through, and the antifreeze that you mixed with water was a gel consistency.
Then again, with a little luck, and clean living, you might be OK.
------------- Play hard, life's not a trial run. '85 BFN '90 BFN
White Lake, Michigan
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Posted By: jackkloepfer
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 4:47pm
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 4:49pm
jackkloepfer wrote:
Brainard,
It did hit some pretty cold temps here over the winter. I'm out of Indianapolis, and the boat was kept with the cover on, and wrapped in a tarp outside.
I did 50/50 water and antifreeze. I'm not sure what type it was, but I asked around for what to look for, and autozone pointed me to some. It was red in color, if that helps. |
The first mistake you made was going into Autozone and asking them what to use!! They don't even know anything about cars/trucks let alone boat winterizing!! Did the instructions on the container tell you to mix it with 50% water? Was it red or a pink color? The red color does tell me it was a propylene glycol (RV-non toxic) which is proper for not killing anything in your neighborhood or lake when it comes out. Red and mixing with water may be of IF the container stated to do it. Pink means no water and you need to be REALLY concerned. It needs to be used full strength.
Keep your fingers crossed and a close eye on the engine when you start it up. Monitor the oil for signs of water.
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64 X55 Dunphy
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Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 5:01pm
what part of town are you on? I work over at Rolls by the airport.
First thing I would look at is the oil's dip stick if you see any of the red stuff or a chocolate milk shake or signs of water. If there are signs of water in the oil there's no need to go any further untill you fix the block that's cracked.
Are you new to boating or just CC? I would be willing to lend a hand and walk you through it the first time and see if you got lucky or not using the watered down RV stuff if you would like the help, free of charge too just let me know and we can arange a time and place to meet.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique
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Posted By: jackkloepfer
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 5:35pm
79, I will check the dipstick tonight.
Your offer to meet up is really, really generous. I might take you up on it. How would you like me to follow up? you can email me at jackkloepfer2@hotmail.com or I can contact you.
Thanks.
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Posted By: jackkloepfer
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 10:31pm
Just checked the oil (twice). Everything looks normal. Charging the battery now, here's hoping.
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Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 12:20am
So was the antifreeze the RV/marine stuff or auto antifreeze? I hope you are OK.
I don't know if you would notice the water in the oil on the dipstick if there was only a small amount of water wouldn't the water sit on the bottom of the pan and the oil would sit on top?
I say this because I remember when I got my boat and I had water in the transmission from the PO leaving it in the water I didn't notice it on the dipstick until after I had run it, then it looked like a strawberry milkshake but before I ran it, it looked fine.
Welcome aboard. Stick around, you will learn a lot.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique
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Posted By: jackkloepfer
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 1:02am
god, honestly, It's been so long I don't remember. I just recall asking my dealer what to look for, and relaying the info to the guy at autozone, and him giving me the red stuff.
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Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 1:22am
jackkloepfer wrote:
god, honestly, It's been so long I don't remember. I just recall asking my dealer what to look for, and relaying the info to the guy at autozone, and him giving me the red stuff.
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Relying on the guy at Autozone was your first mistake!
Was it in a round jug or one of those rectangular jugs???
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 9:29am
Randy_in_Ohio wrote:
I don't know if you would notice the water in the oil on the dipstick if there was only a small amount of water wouldn't the water sit on the bottom of the pan and the oil would sit on top? |
Randy's correct on this one. I just double checked by looking at the SG of lubricating oil. It's .90 so it will sit on top of the water.
Running the engine is the next step!!
Don't forget the trans oil cooler. It's out in the open and will get cold quick. You'll want to do the same check looking for water in it's oil too.
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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 9:58am
im partners on some BBC stuff,exhaust manifolds, blocks and to the likes and my other partner on these keeps pressuring me to sell on e-bay. I keep telling him im holding off because you have to wait until boat owners pull thier covers back and notice all the cracks from not winterizing, I know i at least do 3 a year on average (engine swaps)
one side note, drain and catch your GREEN anti-freeze before you head to the lake
------------- "the things you own will start to own you"
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Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 10:41am
Jack,
I would be more concerned about Chris coming over to my house then a cracked block, LOL. Kidding of course, definitely take him up on his offer, he is a good guy.
Don't panic yet, although I now drain and would recommend the drain first method, for many years I winterized using the suck thru/no drain method, did use real anti-freeze and ran until I saw green coming out the exhaust, never had a problem.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt
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Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 11:58am
You have mail,
But Randy makes a good point oil sitting on top of the water another possibility is that the crack hasn't opened up to allow the water to get to the oil and is just waiting for some heat to expand the crack and then let the water mix with the oil so you'll want to keep a close eye on the oil and check it as it's running for any signs of water.
You don't want to damage the bearings you might get lucky even if it is cracked if the crack is in the intake or head, then it's just a top end rebuild and the rest of the parts will be fine provided they don't get damaged.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique
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Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 2:12pm
damn, reading this thread is like watchin a horror film.
I have some of the pink stuff in my Ski Tique this fall and ended up running it out and pouring in green. I caught all the pink stuff and let it sit in a bucket all winter and sure enough...it froze. It wasn't solid, more like a strawberry Icee. But I'm still glad I got all that out!
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 2:35pm
storm34 wrote:
I have some of the pink stuff in my Ski Tique this fall and ended up running it out and pouring in green. I caught all the pink stuff and let it sit in a bucket all winter and sure enough...it froze. It wasn't solid, more like a strawberry Icee. But I'm still glad I got all that out! |
Chris,
Did you drain and then put the RV pink in? Asking to determine if it was watered down when you purged the pink out. The pink will freeze but not solid to the point of breaking anything. Full strength the stuff is fine.
I switched years ago to the non toxic RV because my boats are stored in the boat house. It's difficult to catch all of the antifreeze so the change was made so I wouldn't be accused of killing any fish!
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64 X55 Dunphy
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Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 3:23pm
8122pbrainard wrote:
storm34 wrote:
I have some of the pink stuff in my Ski Tique this fall and ended up running it out and pouring in green. I caught all the pink stuff and let it sit in a bucket all winter and sure enough...it froze. It wasn't solid, more like a strawberry Icee. But I'm still glad I got all that out! |
Chris,
Did you drain and then put the RV pink in? Asking to determine if it was watered down when you purged the pink out. The pink will freeze but not solid to the point of breaking anything. Full strength the stuff is fine.
I switched years ago to the non toxic RV because my boats are stored in the boat house. It's difficult to catch all of the antifreeze so the change was made so I wouldn't be accused of killing any fish! |
you really should read the fine print on the back of the pink stuff, I would never use the pink stuff unless the boat was garage kept as you saw it does freeze and Pete in your area at the lake I bet it's solid and not a slushy if left outside.
Use the purple or green non-toxic anti-freeze from west marine or boaters world much better and twice the freeze protection.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 3:57pm
79nautique wrote:
you really should read the fine print on the back of the pink stuff, I would never use the pink stuff unless the boat was garage kept as you saw it does freeze and Pete in your area at the lake I bet it's solid and not a slushy if left outside.
Use the purple or green non-toxic anti-freeze from west marine or boaters world much better and twice the freeze protection. |
Chris, I do read the fine print! BTW, -50 degree does come in the pink color too!! I use the same stuff when I drain and winterize my house. I've always used it due to the septic system. I buy several gals, keep it outside in the "instant" vinyl garage with the door wide open until I'm ready to use it. There have been some overnight temps of -20 and out of curiosity I have checked it. Guess what, it doesn't freeze solid!!! You need to get out of Indiana and visit the northwoods sometime!!!
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64 X55 Dunphy
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Posted By: Okie Boarder
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 3:57pm
I sure hope everything turns out ok. I had drained my boat as good as possible before I pulled the engine. Then I poured the RV antifreeze, full strength in all the areas I could get it. It's been sitting on the crate, wrapped in a light blanket, in the garage since then. I don't recall the garage getting below freezing this year, so should be fine. But, you always wonder, you know?
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Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 4:13pm
I used the -80 stuff the last winter. It is stupid expensive, but probably worth the extra sleep you get. I used the pink stuff this year and feel comfortable as we only hit -20 a couple times as Pete stated. Always drain first. Always.
Of course, if you have the special -100* stuff...... wait. Never mind.
------------- Mike N
1968 Mustang
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Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 4:21pm
In my job, I have seen too many animals killed by Anti-freeze. Use the non-toxic stuff !!!! especially around the water......... it has gotten much better since it first was released years ago.
------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq
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Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 4:28pm
Pete the pink stuff that is availible around here might be a little different maybe not but I was looking at the burst temps ratings mainly and after reading it I decided I didn't want to take the chance but it was no where near -50F rating.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique
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Posted By: WhiteLakeSkier
Date Posted: March-16-2010 at 7:05pm
WakeSlayer wrote:
Of course, if you have the special -100* stuff...... wait. Never mind. |
Hey now!!
------------- www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5120&sort=&pagenum=1 - 1961 CC Custom American Skier
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Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-16-2010 at 7:34pm
Sorry, did not know you were watching.
The pink stuff i used is -50* and $2.79 a gallon. The purple was -80* and $10 a gallon.
If you are using the green stuff, I was always under the impression it needed to be diluted to work properly. Yes, no?
------------- Mike N
1968 Mustang
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-17-2010 at 9:13am
WakeSlayer wrote:
If you are using the green stuff, I was always under the impression it needed to be diluted to work properly. Yes, no? |
Yes, I've read this too and seem to remember even seeing it on the label.
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-17-2010 at 12:27pm
Pete, Im surprised you couldnt quote this chart by memory.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-17-2010 at 2:08pm
TRBenj wrote:
Pete, Im surprised you couldnt quote this chart by memory. |
Tim,
You're the one with the exceptional retentive memory!!
I've never seen that chart before! Interesting and it looks like a 25% water/75% glycol gives you the lowest protection. The typical 50/50 will work in 95% of the country.
The coldest I've ever been in is Montana after college carpentering at Big Sky. I got up to the top of the mountain one day and the thermometer was at -49 degrees (actual, no wind chill). Couldn't believe it until confirmation from another thermometer!
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-17-2010 at 2:28pm
I recall a couple -43 to -45 in the last 15 years. Once was in the mpls suburbs, other couple have been out in the country where i live now.
Pretty much the point where Fahrenheit and Celsius intersect.
We have taken cups of water outside and thrown them up in the air. The water makes a hissing sound and evaporates before it hits the ground.
Ass Freezing Cold, we call it.
------------- Mike N
1968 Mustang
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Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: March-17-2010 at 7:06pm
So Jack what were your findings so far? bad or good news?
This winterize info is far for me....lol
------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-17-2010 at 10:27pm
kapla wrote:
So Jack what were your findings so far? bad or good news?
This winterize info is far for me....lol
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Jack,
Yes, we'd like to know what happened with the freeze protection issue. Please don't leave us hanging!!
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: 82wake2001
Date Posted: March-24-2010 at 10:26pm
I am in North East Ohio and I run rv antifreeze through the engine till I see it coming out of the exhaust then pull the impeller and poor the rest of the antifreeze into the hoses.I also love my Perko flush kit! never had an issue. I also never pulled my plugs....yikes
------------- Joe
1982 ski nautique 2001
"Lady of the Wake"
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Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 11:10am
82wake2001 wrote:
I am in North East Ohio and I run rv antifreeze through the engine till I see it coming out of the exhaust then pull the impeller and poor the rest of the antifreeze into the hoses.I also love my Perko flush kit! never had an issue. I also never pulled my plugs....yikes |
I hope your not starting with a cold engine when your feeding it the R/V anti-freeze.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique
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Posted By: jackkloepfer
Date Posted: March-26-2010 at 1:46am
No signs of any undesirables in the oil, changed all other fluids, she's running like a gem...and I installed stargazer, which basically rocks.
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Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: March-26-2010 at 2:10am
good to hear that!!! safe boating!!!
------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-26-2010 at 11:46am
Jack,
I'm very happy to here (I'm sure you are too!!) that you lucked out this year. Happy boating.
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Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: lonestar
Date Posted: March-30-2010 at 12:44am
TRBenj wrote:
Oil (both engine and transmission- probably v-drive too) should be changed in the fall, regardless of engine hours. You dont want it sitting in your engine all winter with acidic byproducts. Probably too late now, but worth thinking about for next year! For this year, yes, Id change it before the season. |
Im hanging my head low asking this question, Engine oil change I do every season, Trans fluid I change every season, V-Drive ? whats that ? I always assumed v-drive meant velvet drive or is there another fluid somewhere Im not changing or checking ?
------------- lonestar
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Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-30-2010 at 1:11am
Chris,
Jack has a Super Sport with a v-drive engine. No v-drive in your 88.
------------- Mike N
1968 Mustang
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Posted By: lonestar
Date Posted: March-30-2010 at 10:20am
Thanks Mike !
------------- lonestar
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Posted By: 82wake2001
Date Posted: March-30-2010 at 1:23pm
everything is fine here also......It is supposed to br mid 70's this weekend.....
------------- Joe
1982 ski nautique 2001
"Lady of the Wake"
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Posted By: Toigs325
Date Posted: March-30-2010 at 6:22pm
I would be worried. You may have gotten lucky though...the plugs are supposed to pop out under ice pressure but they dont always work. Last year a uneducated person on our ski team neglected to pull the plugs and cracked the block on a 2008 Mastercraft...the good news is that it was a Mastercraft.
------------- 2003 Ski Nautique 196 SE
1966 Correct Craft Mustang
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-30-2010 at 7:46pm
Toigs325 wrote:
I would be worried. You may have gotten lucky though...the plugs are supposed to pop out under ice pressure but they dont always work. Last year a uneducated person on our ski team neglected to pull the plugs and cracked the block on a 2008 Mastercraft...the good news is that it was a Mastercraft. |
Andrew,
This is absolutely false. The casting core plugs are commonly called "freeze plugs" but that's not what they are there for. They are for holding the inner mold core in place during the casting process plus a good spot in get sand out after casting. Whoever told you they were there for freeze protection is misinformed and should not be allowed to pass on false information. Yes sometimes they will pop out if the block is frozen and probably the reason someone thought they were "freeze plugs"!! You should not be passing this information on ether.
Sorry to hear about the problem with you teams MC. At least it wasn't a CC!!
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Posted By: tullfooter
Date Posted: March-30-2010 at 8:02pm
82wake2001 wrote:
everything is fine here also......It is supposed to br mid 70's this weekend..... |
Where's "here"? Put your location in your avatar for future reference.
Mid 70's at the end of this week, which is great, except that we're heading to Florida on Friday. If I wasn't leaving, the docks would be going in, and pontoons would be getting wet.
------------- Play hard, life's not a trial run. '85 BFN '90 BFN
White Lake, Michigan
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Posted By: Toigs325
Date Posted: March-30-2010 at 8:45pm
8122pbrainard wrote:
Toigs325 wrote:
I would be worried. You may have gotten lucky though...the plugs are supposed to pop out under ice pressure but they dont always work. Last year a uneducated person on our ski team neglected to pull the plugs and cracked the block on a 2008 Mastercraft...the good news is that it was a Mastercraft. |
Andrew,
This is absolutely false. The casting core plugs are commonly called "freeze plugs" but that's not what they are there for. They are for holding the inner mold core in place during the casting process plus a good spot in get sand out after casting. Whoever told you they were there for freeze protection is misinformed and should not be allowed to pass on false information. Yes sometimes they will pop out if the block is frozen and probably the reason someone thought they were "freeze plugs"!! You should not be passing this information on ether.
Sorry to hear about the problem with you teams MC. At least it wasn't a CC!! |
Well, it looks like I learned something new today. You are correct, I have heard them called "freeze plugs" before. I am going to shut up now before I say anything else that is stupid, haha
------------- 2003 Ski Nautique 196 SE
1966 Correct Craft Mustang
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-30-2010 at 9:27pm
Toigs325 wrote:
I have heard them called "freeze plugs" before. I am going to shut up now before I say anything else that is stupid, haha |
Andrew,
It wasn't stupid!! You've just been misinformed. The issue hear is people should know that if they don't drain and it freezes, they shouldn't expect these plugs to save their butt!!
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Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: April-02-2010 at 6:03pm
I think you guys got a little off track. Back to the De-winterization question. Is there a list of stuff one should check out, especially for those of us who are new to boating and SN ownership? My boat was winterized by the boat yard and they will do the de-winterization. I just wanted to provide them with a list of things that "I" thought they should check for me as a new owner of the boat and not having any history. Thanks for the help.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-02-2010 at 8:23pm
merbesfield wrote:
I think you guys got a little off track. Back to the De-winterization question. Is there a list of stuff one should check out, especially for those of us who are new to boating and SN ownership? My boat was winterized by the boat yard and they will do the de-winterization. I just wanted to provide them with a list of things that "I" thought they should check for me as a new owner of the boat and not having any history. Thanks for the help. |
Mark,
Sorry you feel we got off track but honestly "dewinterizing" isn't complicated. Go back to the first post and read through the thread again. Since you're taking the boat back to the marina, trust me they WILL have their own list and you will be charged dearly for it. Take a look at your manual and do some more reading on site. The process is simple and we're always around if you need help.
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64 X55 Dunphy
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Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: April-02-2010 at 8:37pm
merbesfield wrote:
Is there a list of stuff one should check out, especially for those of us who are new to boating and SN ownership? My boat was winterized by the boat yard and they will do the de-winterization. I just wanted to provide them with a list of things that "I" thought they should check for me as a new owner of the boat and not having any history. Thanks for the help. |
I de-winterized mine last week, fired up and ran like a champ. Far as check list, you can get real technical with dewinterizing but depends how they winterize the boat. Did you change oil and filter, impellar, fuel filter, before winterizing. Here is what I check:
Check the belts to make sure they good and tight. Make sure bilge pump works, you can check your rudder and prop area. Check your hoses, make sure no leaks anywhere. Check the fuel system make sure working properly.. Fuel filter etc.. I like to watch my gauges close just to make sure everything electrical is working too..
------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson
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Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: April-07-2010 at 2:17am
I drained and then used a Splash brand RV and Marine antifreeze, somewhere between red and pink. Rated to -50 burst but bottle states some slushing is normal. Mine sits outside in Minnesota. No matter what was done by who, I still cross my fingers in the spring.
I changed the oil and pull the raw water impellor in the fall, noting its oriientation, and the themostat. After re-assembly in the spring I check all hoses connections and belt tensions, and charge and re-install the battery. I Remove the battery, store in the attached garage and charge it about every other month over the winter. Only my second winter with the inboard, I am still learning.I did not do the tranny but did it this spring. I will do it in the fall this year. Mine came with a cracked block from the previous owner not winterising. Swapping engines is an adventure. Great way to get to know your boat.
------------- For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats. 1987 Ski Nautique
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-07-2010 at 8:47am
OverMyHead wrote:
pull the raw water impellor in the fall, noting its oriientation, and the themostat. |
Dave,
Clarify the above for me regarding the T stat. It sounds like you remove it as well. If so, it's not needed and was wondering your thoughts.
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64 X55 Dunphy
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Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: April-07-2010 at 11:26am
Actually, neither is removing the battery or charging it over the winter.
If you did teh trans this Spring I doubt you need to do that this Fall either. Ultra safe, but probably not necessary.
------------- Mike N
1968 Mustang
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Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: April-08-2010 at 12:45am
Here are my thoughts but as you have probaly figured out when it comes to mechanics I am a bear of little brain. As for the thermostat,I believe removing it came from another thread here but without the reason why. Thinking it through, as I understand it the t-stats job is to isolate part of the circulatory system when the engine is cold. After draining the water out of the engine It can not stay warm long and I do not wish to isolate any part of the motor from recieving the pink or red stuff. It also gives me a chance to inspect it for the next season. when I first bought my boat I pulled it out of curiosity and found it to be a deteriorating rusty disc, and replaced it. I swapped the engine last summer and did not check it. When I went to pull it in the fall I discovered my new/used engine came without one, I installed the one I from the old engine this spring. Had I not attempted to pull it I would not have known. Since it is out for the winterisation process I leave it out for the winter. No need to have it soaked in fluid all winter. I know there is a flaw somewhere in my isolation thoery because the motor refills itself with water after it is drained but before it warms up, but I dont think I am doing harm so I still remove it. As for the battery, removing for indoor storage and occasional charging is a common practice in my peer group. As long as it is not overcharged I think this has to be beneficial,possibly overkill, but beneficial. I will do the tranny again this fall just to get on the right schedule, I can afford $10 in tranny fluid, I cannot afford a tranny rebuild. Those are my thoughts, feel free to challenge them, it helps me learn.
------------- For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats. 1987 Ski Nautique
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-08-2010 at 8:58am
Dave,
There is a flaw in thinking the T stat needs to come out or be warm/open to get the antifreeze in the block. Many think the same so don't feel you're the only one. The engine block has a cooling porting to allow circulation in and out of the basic block. Besides the porting at the top of the block at the T stat, behind the circulating pump is porting at the bottom of the block. It doesn't matter if the stat is open because when you add the antifreeze, it enters via the porting behind this pump. The stat doesn't care about sitting in antifreeze all winter - it's made for it. In fact, you may not be able to fill some engines that high because it will run out the exhaust manifolds. I'm just trying to save you some work.
Speaking of saving you some work, I have never removed a battery from any of my boats for winter storage. I make sure they have a good charge and disconnent them. I don't know of a marina that removes batteries and keeps them warm for the winter ether. Car and truck batteries sit outside for winter. Yes, some will put battery heating blankets on their vehical to keep them warm but that's for maintaining the CCA. I don't even charge or put a maintainer on them.
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Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: April-08-2010 at 12:05pm
Thanks Pete, I learn more here by accident than I do with great effort at most places. It is good to know that I can streamline my winterisation. I probably will continue to pull the battery though just because it makes me feel good and I wont have to listen to my friends saying it would have lasted ten years if I would have brought it in.
------------- For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats. 1987 Ski Nautique
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-08-2010 at 12:18pm
Dave,
I remember my father-in-law (who was a big PITA!) when he was living would always insist I big the battery up out of the boat when I winterized his boat. He felt it would extend it's life. The battery would go in the crawl under the house and then the house would get shut down for the winter! He had more problems with his batteries than anyone I know of. Of course he would always get the cheapest battery he could find too!
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64 X55 Dunphy
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Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: May-01-2010 at 5:46am
Pete, I found this researching another post and initially felt somewhat vindicated. But now I question how my car batteries survive any given
-30 degree night in Minnesota. Dave.
from onthelake.net.
Whether or not your boat is stored for the season in a warm garage or out in the cold, your best bet is to remove all batteries and bring them inside. A fully charged battery with a perfect electrolyte level can probably withstand temperatures down to zero degrees without freezing. But the colder it gets, the more easily a battery can discharge, and therefore the more easily it can freeze at higher temps. If even one of the cells freezes, the battery is shot! Fully charge them about once a month over the winter and they will be ready when you are in the spring. Try to keep them off of concrete floors is possible and cover the terminals to help prevent discharge.
------------- For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats. 1987 Ski Nautique
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-01-2010 at 10:09am
OverMyHead wrote:
Pete, I found this researching another post and initially felt somewhat vindicated. But now I question how my car batteries survive any given
-30 degree night in Minnesota. Dave.
from onthelake.net.
Whether or not your boat is stored for the season in a warm garage or out in the cold, your best bet is to remove all batteries and bring them inside. A fully charged battery with a perfect electrolyte level can probably withstand temperatures down to zero degrees without freezing. But the colder it gets, the more easily a battery can discharge, and therefore the more easily it can freeze at higher temps. If even one of the cells freezes, the battery is shot! Fully charge them about once a month over the winter and they will be ready when you are in the spring. Try to keep them off of concrete floors is possible and cover the terminals to help prevent discharge. |
Dave,
As soon as I got to the end where sitting on a concrete floor is mentioned, I knew this was written by someone older than I!! I'll bet he's got plenty of "old wives tales"!!!
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Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: May-01-2010 at 3:06pm
Pete, I came to the same conclusion, unless hes trying to eliminate that rectangular clean spot on the concrete in the spring, they solved the case issues years ago, just hoping my opinion might be validated, But I am bowing to your superior knowlege base and I will disconeect the cables and leave the battery in the boat this winter. .
------------- For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats. 1987 Ski Nautique
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Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: May-01-2010 at 10:25pm
OverMyHead wrote:
I will disconeect the cables and leave the battery in the boat this winter. |
Dave,
As a fellow frozen tundra Minnesotan, trust me on this one. I have never once had a battery fail me in the Spring. 16 winters, never once pulled a battery. A co-worker has practiced removing them for about the same period. In his Malibu, his Ranger (4 batteries), 4 wheelers, snowmobiles, everything. This guy has had at least one failure, if not more, per year since I have known him. Without fail. LIterally, thousands in batteries over the years. This year he caved to my advice, left them all in, and has not one bad battery to replace. Coincidence perhaps, but I doubt it.
------------- Mike N
1968 Mustang
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