Tune up on 351?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16759
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 6:29am
Topic: Tune up on 351?
Posted By: skicat2001
Subject: Tune up on 351?
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 12:08am
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Hello guys,
I was kicking around tuning my 85 Nautique boat, and getting her ready for spring. My boat was tuned in 06, and thinking about doing it myself. As this site has brought me so much knowledge reading other posts in many other aspects. I need deep detail of what parts and how to do this properly as you guys did with my risers and gaskets on the manifolds. What are the parts? What steps do I take? Who do I order from? I had the points redone from my mechanic this fall, should I redoe those,and leave alone and just do the wires and plugs? What kinda tools will I need to set plugs? Do they just screw in or..? How much will it cost me to do myself? I am looking forward to you guys helping me on this matter. I think I am do, and would love your help. I know this doesnt take long, but I am 2 weeks away from putting her in the water. I might just go ahead and do this tune up.. Thanks SkiCat 2001 ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Replies:
Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 12:34am
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just change the oil and filter go and have fun with it!!! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 12:36am
Thanks for the info!!   ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Luchog wrote:Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 1:34am
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Buy 8 spark plugs, take each lead out at a time and replace the plug, you just need a 5/8 wrench. Spray some W40 so they come out easier. You can get Autolites 24 or NGK BPR6FS.
When you take plugs out check them out to see if any carburation or ignition tuning is needed. They should be tanned and dry. Then replace each cable, one at a time so you dont mix them up. You could also get the tune up kit for your distributor, Most likely a Prestolite Distributor. Replacing the rotor and cap is quite simple, changing the points you'll need to set gap to spec with a feeler gauge. It is a good idea to spray some W40 on the springs below the plate if it's been sitting for a while. Open the gas/water separator if you have one and clean it, replace the filter if needed. Change the water pump impeller with a new fresh one. you probably have a sheerwood pump. Connect a water hose to the engine's water pump inlet (the one with the hose connected to the bottom of the hull) or get one of those fake a lake hoses wich go into the hull water fitting. Start the engine and have it warm up, check the water pump does not get hot. When you touch the oil filter and feel its hot its time to shut it down and suck the oil, through the dipstick with a pump or take the crank plug out, put something under so you dont make a mess. If it has the oil suction hose you can plug the pump to it, another way if you dont have an oil pump is to take that hose out though the hull's plug and shut air through the dipstick. Suck out all oil and add fresh one through the passenger's side valve cover cap. Replace the oil filter. The crank uses 4 quarters plus one for the filter. Anyway use the dipstick to see when it's full, check level on the water, do not overfill!!! I see many guys here like te Valvoline VR oil or other high on ZDDP. For the oil filter stay away from FRAM, you dont need a PCM filter neither. Put a plate below the tranny plug to take oil out, fill again through the dipstick tube until you read a little over full on the dipstick. you must recheck tranny oil level on the water after running the boat. You use Dextron III fluid for this. Check that water pump and alternator belts are tight and have little to non play, if not loose the brackets bolts and plie the pump or alternator until belt is tight then ajust the bracket. If the belt teeths are too worn, replace belt. My point was/is, that it is unlikely any of the things you'll replace will make your boat perform better, in fact you will probably mess it up after spending some hundred on unneeded parts and then you'll have to spend more hundreds to fix it, my advice is leave it as it is and enjoy it until something starts acting up and then you'll learn each procedure at a time. what do you think? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 11:37am
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PLEASE...leave it alone?
I'm not in that boat, the plugs need changed with Autolite plugs, never use NKG's in a ford, your not overseas so the autolites are easy to locate anyware in the states. But I would inspect the cap and rotor looking for carbon tracks in the cap and corrosion on the rotor tip and the tower tips inside of the cap, replace if you see mild to heavy corrosion usually green in color. Check for cracks in the cap replace if you find one. Replace if you see heat marks in the center of the rotor or cap post pictures here if your not sure. next I would inspect the RWP impellar or install it if you removed it for the winter, replace if any vanes are missing or it has grooves in the vanes. Next hook up a water supply and start the motor get it up to operating temp, set the dwell if points then set the timing, recheck the dwell, recheck the timing set dwell at 20 degrees, timing at 8-10 degree's. check your idle make sure it's around 700-750 when you set the timing, if it's higher when you set timing lower it and recheck the dwell and timing untill all three are set correctly. Since your not in the water you can't put it in gear and adjust it to the 600-650 setting so you'll have to recheck all of that once you are on the water takes about 5 minutes tops. Next you can fine tune the idle mixture screws and idle to there final settings. This should be done on the water and in gear for best results. Next change the oil if it wasn't part of your winterization, change the filter, if you have a hose attached to the oil pan drain plug, run the hose thru the drain in the hull and drain the oil out, no air no pump is required. Next inspect the tranny fluid change if needed. set the plug gap at .035" replace one plug at a time. If you buy the marine grade plug with the SS base then you can extend the time you leave them in the motor. Standard plugs like to rust up pretty quick in a boat so I always changed them each year but after I ran the boat a time or two to use up the old gas and burn off the fogging oil to prevent fouling and leaving deposites on the new plugs. But I would fire it up, set the dwell and timing if points, E! ignition just timing get the carb pretty close then fine tune it all once your on the water. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 1:36pm
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Chris, Why no NGK's in a FoMoCo? I love em in my 2-strokes.
Lee, Yes, do put a new impeller in it! I replace every 3 years whether it needs it or not. |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 1:39pm
Thanks Al, Yes sir, I change impellar every 100 hrs or annually.. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 1:41pm
Please excuse my comment.. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 1:42pm
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Hey, I lived in Katy in 1980. (Unintentional rhyme)
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Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 1:47pm
Really? Great place to live.. Hey Chris and Grimblat, Reading yalls post on tuning the boat! Great stuff.. Thanks guys..  ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 2:08pm
wonder the same..no autolites here so I went with the NGK  ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 2:09pm
last time I checked Ford doesn't make two-cycle engines and they don't own NGK so how can you match the correct heat range by using NGK's NGK's work great in the TL but I wound never use them in an american designed car. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 2:24pm
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Chris, by 2-strokes I meant like all my chainsaws etc.
So, It's a keep engines with how they came type thing. GM/AC etc... |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 2:52pm
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What is the difference in these plugs guys? Is one spilt fire plug, or just provide stronger combustion to the engine etc..
As I can see Chris sounds like the hard part is setting the idle mixture screws. As this will be the final step in the fine tunning process.. You da man Chris!  ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 3:02pm
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the difference is the engine came with autolite plugs from the factory so I suggest you stick with that brand, now going with the platnum series is fine if they interchange for the heat range only which they do in this application.
The idle air mixture screw can be a little harder to figure out at first but with a little practice and guidens you can learn how to notice the fine change you have to listen for and the smell as well, a vaccum gauge is a great aid for the beginner. there is a lot more going on with the spark plug than most realize, the length of the tips can vary and effect combustion, heat ranges vary as well and may not be the same from one brand to the next. A good exapmple is AC/Delco's number system there are R44T, R44TSX, R44 and severall other letter combinations the number is the heat range the trailing letters are tip styles so you have options depending on if it's a fresh rebuild or an old one burning oil. Autolite doesn't have as many options compared to AC/Delco's stuff but the main part is the heat range and you have a better chance getting it right with the factory speced plug, now if your experienced then yes you can play around with different brands and heat ranges but for the average Joe I don't recomend doing it. Most that are Running something other than autolites are because they can not get them in their country so you have to use what you can, you just have to inspect them and read the plug to verify the engine is running like it should and sometimes it's trial and error sometimes there is a direct replacement, so not everyone is in the same boat. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 3:25pm
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There is a big difference in plugs Chris. I will have to see what is in mine, but wouldnt doubt it if NGK was in there. Would be my luck..
As you had some great steps and where in great detail on tuning the boat, I will look around for these plugs you talking about. I am also a member of Overton.com and recieve a catalog from them every spring and summer. They have a tune up kit for 66.99 includes cap, rotor, points and condesor.. There plugs they sell in Overtons catalog are NGK plugs... I will look for the others.. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 3:32pm
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go to wal-mart, autozone, o'reily's any parts store in the us and get autolite 24's or the iridium version just don't try and gap the platnium plugs with a wire style gapper you have to use the ramp style gapper so you don't knock the platnium tip off of the plug.
also the cap and rotor you can get any where too nothing fancy about it just cross refernce the dist brand and number and your good to go or order them from correctcraftparts.com ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 3:36pm
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Cool Chris,
I apperciate the advice, if I have problems, I will send you an email.. Thanks! ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 3:40pm
Wow, $67 for a tune up kit??? Where do you think Overtons gets them? Probably just a Sierra kit. You can even get it from West Marine cheaper! Stick with a decent auto supply like Chris recommends and buy your ski equipement (or tubes) from Overtons. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 3:48pm
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Pete,
They dont say what brand they are.. They range here from 39.99 up to the 67.99.. Now, I notice there are different caps for V-8 motors, tall-cap, flat cap, clip cap, and a screw cap. The one I need is the tall cap rotor, and its price is 39.99 but I dont have the that type of ingition. But I will shop around, to see.. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 4:43pm
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get the model number of the distibutor and it's brand mallory or prestolite, call Billy get the right numbers for the cap and rotor and then order them from him or use the info and get them locally. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 6:01pm
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I sure will Chris.. You say the guy is Billy who I will be talking too.. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 6:10pm
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Lee,
Billy is one of our members (boatdr). He's in the boat repair business and also the parts. His wife Karen sometimes answers but she can handle your parts needs too. I know they have a separate phone line for parts but I don't have it!! Try their main phone 318 386 2825 ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 6:18pm
hey Chris, Not to be a nit picker but there is no such site as correctcraftparts.com , it redirects to some dealer in canada but it sure isn't Billy's site. He should chime in with the correct url but looks to me like he pulled it down or changed it. ------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 6:19pm
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http://mycorrectcraftparts.com/ - My Correct Craft Parts ------------- |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 6:27pm
Thanks Tim, so it's www.MYcorrectcraftparts.com ------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 6:29pm
Pete, Thanks, I will give him or his wife a hollar on this.. Can he ship pretty much anything? ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 6:40pm
No, Boat Dr. requires that you pick up everything at his shop in Monterey, Louisiana. ------------- |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 6:42pm
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Oh ok.. Thanks TR.. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-11-2010 at 12:30pm
Hummm I believe he was just pulling your leg. But thanks for the correction I didn't realize it's Mycorrectcraftparts sorry for the confusion. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: March-11-2010 at 2:24pm
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I thought he was Chris... Some these guys one here you gotta watch.. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: Marauder71
Date Posted: March-11-2010 at 3:18pm
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I am doing a tune up on my 71 Holman Moody 351. Amazingly the spark plugs seem to be original from the factory since there is blue over spray on the plugs. The plugs are Autolite BTF3M, which is hard to find. Through my searching I found the below link that references old Autolites to the newer models/numbers. The replacement part for me is an Autolite 124.
Hope this helps in you search for the right plug. http://www.power-21.com/BendixPower21i/Docs/Autolite/Plugs/HeatRange/3Auto-Lite_CR.pdf - Auto-Lite Cross Reference |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: March-11-2010 at 3:28pm
------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: March-11-2010 at 3:28pm
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Yea after listening to Chris and the others, I will stay away from NGK plugs.. I did some good research on them Autolite plugs, they show to be the plug..
------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-11-2010 at 4:04pm
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24 is the correct plug if your heads use the 5/8" plug and are a little newer, 124 plugs are the older style that is 13/16" plug. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-11-2010 at 4:08pm
Agreed. In my '71 Skier, I run the 45's- I believe theyre very similar to the 124's. ------------- |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: March-11-2010 at 4:48pm
Hey Chris, All 351 Ford like the 78-86, dont they use the same kinda plugs. Same motors right.. When did they do upgrades to the 351 betweem then? Your 79 Nautique I bet got the same 351 in my 85.. Right..  ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-11-2010 at 4:55pm
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if you use a 5/8 socket to remove your plugs then use the 24's if you have to use a 13/16 socket then use the 124's
I believe if you have the gt-40's or even the p version it's a 726 maybe and a 5/8 shanked plug as well but the heat range is a little different than the 24's due to compression ratio's, Tim is more familur with those plugs so the number is a shot in the dark regions of my skull,, besides Tim likes to correct me anyway so i have to throw him a bone once in a while  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: March-11-2010 at 5:20pm
Yea I never I could figure out the like messing with ya, espcially if you know your stuff..  ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-11-2010 at 5:25pm
provided that you had yours balanced, a comp-cams, some head works and some other goodies to kick out 315HP then yes they would have been the same but mine was never a stock motor and I bet yours is. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: March-11-2010 at 5:34pm
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Yes sir Chris,
You got the goodies on yours, huh.. Know mine is bone stock far as know.. I just like her to run fined tuned ALL the time.. I was thinking adding goodies to it, but dont really know how to upgrade for a cheap price. Or what can I add for a grand to see better performance?.. My mechanic I have asked him to do stuff to it, but he has told me if you got money to burn then do it, but upgrading can damage other parts.. etc.. Or he said you have to pay more attention to your motor and stay on top of it more than usual because of the upgrades.. Maybe one day! ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: March-11-2010 at 5:43pm
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for little more of a grand you can go the full H+C+I upgrade
heads, cam and intake... 600 plus shipping for a set of gt-40p heads from tristate. 265 for a cam research cam (In your case its a RR some price may vary) 200 or so for a new aluminum intake manifold... an another couple of hundres for misc parts..bolts, gaskets, paint, etc... Make sure your engine bottom end is in good shape..don´t want to end up with a rod pulling a hole in your new heads
It will take you engine to little over 300hp...
I did it and i´m quite happy..yet I´m still trying to sort some issues to take all the juice out of it. Anyway I felt a drastic improvement in the hole shot and pulling. That may also be due to the fact I removed almost 500lb wet foam from the hull ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: March-11-2010 at 5:55pm
Hey Seb, Wow! Thats not bad. I wuz thinking most upgrades that involve more than one big item like cams, or heads, would be expensive. But that is reasonable.. Maybe a great winter plan for next year.. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-11-2010 at 5:56pm
All mid 70's and newer non-HO heads will take the Autolite 24's. The older 13/16" plugs are 124's or 45's. The HO (GT40) and GT40p heads both take Autolite 764's. Like Kapla said, for $1500 you can add about 80hp over stock. Before crossing that bridge, its recommended you have a pretty good understanding on how your engine works and how to maintain it properly. ------------- |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: March-11-2010 at 6:03pm
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Yes sir TR,
Over this summer I will be doing some studying on motor upgrades. I am somewhat mechanically inclined if it occurs with nuts bolts, a little muscle and sweet. But tearing a huge item apart like upgrade on cams and shafts, and heads, motor etc, I will have to learn more. Oil Change, possibly this tune up, or impellar, I can do, but some of the other real technical stuff I stay away from. Being on this site and being addicted to this site know, I see with these older boats, lots of problems with the fuel systems. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: March-11-2010 at 6:12pm
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Note that the heads from triste are remanufactured, but are like new...
You can also find them cheaper on ebay, but may need lots of work and end up paying more than the trista ones... ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |