96SNOB Steering
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16813
Printed Date: November-16-2024 at 4:45pm
Topic: 96SNOB Steering
Posted By: storm34
Subject: 96SNOB Steering
Date Posted: March-16-2010 at 3:42pm
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Anyone know the correct length for a 96 SNOB?
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Replies:
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-16-2010 at 4:12pm
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Chris I bet Bruce Foutz does. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: March-16-2010 at 4:28pm
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Thanks Mike, do you have any contact info?
Just got an email from Karen. She said we'd need a special cable for the SNOB. I'm guessing due to the windshield and dash being moved back. Makes for a pretty pricy cable, but I guess thats the luxury of having an open bow! ------------- |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-16-2010 at 5:08pm
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http://www.n3boatworks.com/staff.asp - N3 Boatworks
Bruce was the parts guy at MWCC forever. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-16-2010 at 6:05pm
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According to http://shopwhitelake.com/ - White Lake Marine's online store , all boats from 93-97 used the same 19.5' steering cable. Its special in that its a special Teleflex part (not a universal cable), but theres nothing special about the SNOB. ------------- |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-16-2010 at 8:33pm
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My understanding is that most later model CC's have an XX.5 cable, and a proprietary throw to them. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: March-16-2010 at 8:54pm
Thanks for the info guys...I'll do some more checking and see if Karen can get me one in the next few weeks.
Tim,thanks for clearing this up. Looks like the one in their shop is around the same price as what Karen expected. The weird thing is the dealer thought it'd only be 150? You guys think the difference would be in quality of the cable? ------------- |
TRBenj wrote:Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: March-16-2010 at 10:22pm
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There is a throw differece between a CC cable and bass boat.I think it is 10" vs 7" all else being the same.
You can use a "standard cable" and it will fit, and it will turn the rudder BUT........It will not turn as sharp to port.........Just did one in the shop, Buy the stuff that came on the boat, from someone that knows CC,quality aint cheap. ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-16-2010 at 11:52pm
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I agree with Billy. Buy the right cable for the boat. The earlier boats (pre-2001) used the standard cable with the shorter throw. I notice a huge difference in low speed maneuverability. I can get by with the smaller boats, but we're buying a high dollar cable and converting the BFN over this spring. ------------- |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: March-17-2010 at 1:31pm
Don't worry Billy, waiting for Karen to get me hooked up! ------------- |
Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: March-17-2010 at 2:15pm
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Sorry I have to jump in here. When we went over to Teleflex rack and pinion there really was not any thing special or propriatary about it until we utilized the idea of incorperating the old larger rotory cable in the rack format. Then in either late 90's or early 2000s teleflex went to a larger rack mount and pinion assembly. Since Teleflex and Morse combined company's the larger heavier rotory/rack cables became more troublesome and early failure became a problem and Nautiques have now gone over to the standard Teleflex Extreem cable.
A suggestion for all that are considering a new cable in a early Teleflex rack and pinion application is to go ahead and up grade the pinion assembly to the newer unit and utilize the newer Teleflex Extreem cable. you will be happier for it. Also if you are paying more than $145.00 for the cable you are being robbed! This application does apply to the pre Teleflex Rack and pinion era nautiques as the old rotory systems do have a the extra throw incorperated in them. Cheers! Jody ------------- Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise. 1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0 |
Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: March-17-2010 at 2:19pm
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Sorry my disclaimer at the end should read: This application does NOT apply to the pre Teleflex Rack and pinion era nautiques as the old rotory systems do have a the extra throw incorperated in them.
------------- Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise. 1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0 |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: March-17-2010 at 3:29pm
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Thread Jack
Hey Jody good to have you back!! how was your trip to the aussie land? Pics? kapla ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: March-17-2010 at 4:23pm
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I was wondering the same? Moomba pics?
AT |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: March-17-2010 at 5:54pm
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Thanks for the info Jody, looks like I have some research to do on cables! ------------- |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: April-08-2010 at 3:28pm
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Update on the SNOB Cable. New one is sitting in the office and I'm planning on instillation in the next few days.
I've been researching rudder removal. We had a vibration last year when turning, the best description I could come up with is it felt like the rudder was rattling around. I went to see the boat last night and the rudder seems to bounce when you turn the wheel. It would only do this in one direction, the other way was fine, smooth and easy. Does this sound like grounds for rudder removal? Just to be sure, I pulled these steps from another thread and a pic of Tim's 90 Rudder.
I'll probably pull the rudder first and check everything out before I pull out the old cable. I'm worried about messing up the throw when I tear everything apart. Any thoughts? Suggestions? ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-08-2010 at 3:36pm
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Edit: Just ignore my advice- I havent had to do a rack cable (yet). Jody has it covered. ------------- |
Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: April-08-2010 at 3:55pm
------------- Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise. 1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0 |
Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: April-08-2010 at 4:26pm
Wrong procdure for centering a rack and pinion cable clamp block assembly and centering the steering wheel. Centering the rudder is done with a tape measure via measuring tip of trailing edge of rudder to the corner of the chine cut out/bottom of boat with the rudder at full travel one way then measure full travel the other way. Move the cable support tube so as the measurements are equal from full travel both directions then tighten down the clamp block assembly. To center the steering wheel the boat needs to be run on the water. Keep in mind that the hub assembly is splined with the sterring post. First remove center cap then loosen the nut holding down the steering wheel to the hub with a 3/4" socket Note: do not completly remove nut but get it finger loose. Next run the boat up to 34 mph holding the steering wheel firm and driving in a straight line(this next part is kind tricky)notice where the steering wheel is oreinted and where you would like it oreinted at this point holding firmly to the steering wheel and driving in a straight line, slowly pull the throtle handle back down to idle/out of gear then unscrew the nut as it should be on finger tight pull off steering wheel re-orient it where it needs to go install the nut again finger tight then go check. If all checks out OK then retighten the nut with 3/4" socket and put center cap back on. I do this part of the procedure in less than 3 min so it is not complicated. With Tims method you may wind up with more rudder travel going one way then the other. Keep in mind I have already replaced three rack systems this month. Also on your 96 you would do your self a favor and buy a new teleflex Extreeme cable and the newer pinion assembly as it is superrior to what came orginal on the boat. It's hard to find good help these day's  ------------- Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise. 1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0 |
Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: April-08-2010 at 4:40pm
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Tim did mention about the cable length and throw also needing a "special" cable.
here is a measure ment that can be performed to make sure you either use the "special" cable or can use standard length cable If your tiller arm is 8-1/16" bolt center to bolt center you will need to utilize the "special" extra throw cable. If the tiller arm measures 6.5" bolt center to bolt center you can utilize a standard throw cable. ------------- Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise. 1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0 |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: April-08-2010 at 4:41pm
I may do this, just because we were having some water on the carpet in the back of the boat. I think I've tracked it down to the rubrail. Just want to make sure, thats a different topic tho.
I'll snap some pics at lunch, I'm pretty sure I'll be reusing the clamp box. This is the white deal coming out of the starboard stringer? Correct?
Here's a picture of the assembly at the helm. Hard to tell, but thats the end of the teeth and you can see the cable on the right side of the opening. It looks like it's set up to one end (either right or left). I talked with Woody this morning, he said if the wheel's not right side up I can pop the center cap and flip the wheel accordingly.
This sounds like it should be pretty simple. I feel that I'm thinking about it too much, I need to get in front of it and just get it done. ------------- |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: April-08-2010 at 4:42pm
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Thanks for all the help on this! I thought I would try my best to document everything for others. ------------- |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: April-08-2010 at 4:50pm
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Jody, thanks for all the info...Sounds like you and Woody are on the same page with centering the wheel. I got the cable from him, he knew exactly what I needed once I said 96 SNOB.
Great description on finding correct throw aswell! He thought I would be alright as long as I don't mess with the settings once I get everything apart. I'll see if I can get it installed tonight, make some measurements and report back! ------------- |
Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: April-08-2010 at 5:01pm
Chris here is another one you might want to know when you re-assemble the steering cable. Their are or were four small ss flat washers for the rack and pinion assembley. They do not go under the fastner heads but they get sandwiched in between the pinion and rack for correct gear mesh tolerance. ------------- Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise. 1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0 |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: April-08-2010 at 6:11pm
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Thanks Jody, Woody did mention this briefly but I wsn't 100% sure if I heard him right. ------------- |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: April-09-2010 at 2:19am
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A huge thanks goes out to steve workman and pete brainard for taking my phone calls tonight! That's what makes this site so dang cool!
I got the old cable out and am having trouble getting the new one started. The first 2 feet seem the hardest. I think I just need another set of hands to pull while I feed the cable through. Not near as easy as a throttle cable! The bumping I was talking about turned out to be the rudder. The packing nut was completly loose and was turning with the tiller arm. After talking with Pete a second time I went ahead and dropped the rudder..just my luck, not enough clearance to pull it. I'll get some new packing rope since I've already got it opened up. I'll be back tomorrow night more prepared and see if I can't finnish it up. Kind of frustrating night but I'm so lucky I've got everyone here on my side to teach and help me through this! ------------- |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: April-09-2010 at 3:38am
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Chris
So, the rudder definetely had a little more play than it should have?! Glad you ended up checking the packing and found the reason why. Thats the great thing with this site...lots of people with lots of different experiences...and always willing to help! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-09-2010 at 8:52am
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Steve,
The jam nut wasn't locked down on the packing nut so it would turn with the rudder. Since the rudder shaft to port was always a pretty sloppy fit, I highly suspect that's where the vibration was coming from. No warranty on the boat? Chris should get some of his money back!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: April-09-2010 at 6:19pm
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Pete/Steve, thanks again guys. You ROCK!!
Anyone have any tips on getting the new cable started? This one is giving me hell trying to get through the first 2 feet. I'm a little worried I'll damage the other controls/wires going through if I try and force it too much. ps- I now know why Pete always wears long sleeves, I got into some glass last night on our muffler and am itching like a homeless bum!! ------------- |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: April-09-2010 at 7:56pm
Actually ...most the time our heads are full of rocks.. 
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: April-09-2010 at 8:29pm
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Atleast there's something up there!
Looks like I'm not going to get to the boat tonight. I'll try again tomorrow morning that way I have a whole day to work. I still can't believe this thing is that difficult to get started. ------------- |
Posted By: emccallum
Date Posted: April-11-2010 at 2:52pm
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Storm,
I am coming in a bit late on the thread. Did you tie a small rope to the old cable before removing it? For me, this job is a much easier with two people. One lying under the dash feeding the cable and the other one tugging the line. If you didnt run a rope, then you may want to try and feed a small wire back thru the boat with a line attached. I have never done a cable without a rope to pull it thru. But, I have only done about four or five, all the same way, so there may be an easier way. Best of luck. |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: April-11-2010 at 3:22pm
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Thanks for the input Ernest. I do have a small rope attached to the cable but I was trying solo last time. I've been trying to get over there but things with work have been crazy. I have a feeling your right, it should come through pretty easy with another set of hands. ------------- |
Posted By: Waldo
Date Posted: April-11-2010 at 3:34pm
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Chris did you burn up all of Pete's cell phone minutes?
Waldo |
Posted By: emccallum
Date Posted: April-11-2010 at 11:35pm
| IIRC, in the area under the dash, where all the wires and stuff come thru, if you remove the vent hose it makes it a lot easier to get your arm down in there to guide it. |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: April-11-2010 at 11:46pm
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On the SNOB, I think there are two different passage ways. One for the blower and one for the wiring. I would be surprised if they open up to each other once under the airbox since that would mean the wires are susceptible to getting wet? I'll check it out tho..
I'm going to be in Chicago all week so hopefully I can get to it friday afternoon/evening and ski all weekend!!! ------------- |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: April-11-2010 at 11:49pm
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Waldo, I haven't had to call him back yet! Maybe we need to get verizon to give CCF members an "in your network" deal so we can all call each other for free! ------------- |
Posted By: emccallum
Date Posted: April-12-2010 at 12:31am
| Storm, as I recall the two holes are connected and removing the vent will allow you to get your hand in there to guide the cable thru the wires. |
Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: April-12-2010 at 12:33pm
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Some SNOBS and Sport Nautiques are very troublesome with directing the cable back into and thru the Air box even with a chase/pull rope.
Some of you probably do not want to hear this but I have a soulution that gets the cable thru every time. As their is a carpeted kick panel screwed over the air box, I have removed that panel, and taken a 4" hole saw and bored a hole into the air box. This will alow you to reach in and direct the cable end down the right path. Re-glass the plug back into the hole and go on with life. I have done this many times faster and with less frustration then fighting the cable and tight limitations. ------------- Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise. 1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0 |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: April-20-2010 at 6:07pm
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I just replaced the steering cable on a 98 Sport over lunch. I believe the hole you are talking about was in the part facing out towards the driver's feet. It was already there in this boat. The process was complicated a lot by the two heater hoses in there. These obstructed the channel to such a degree that I do not see how you could possibly replace the cable with them there. Especially with no additional hole. The PO cut them off far too short to re-attach to the motor so they had to come out either way. They were actually zip tied about a third of the way down the channel to another cable. Total nightmare getting them out. once they were out there was plenty of room to slip the new cable back through to the channel. We did use a chase, but likely would not have needed it. Took about 2 hours, a lot of which was fighting the old heater hoses.
I am going to have to do the cable on my SAN this year yet. I expect less problems as it just runs down into the ski locker, unlike the Sport. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: emccallum
Date Posted: April-20-2010 at 6:18pm
| 2 hour lunch? Are they hiring? |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: April-21-2010 at 1:21am
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Thanks for chiming in guys. Mike, I took the blower hose off the air box and found it extremely easy to feed the cable through. I figured they would be separate since there's a chance for water to enter. Anyway, I got everything connected and ran the boat this afternoon. Steering was a breeze but I've still got some rudder tweaks to before it's ready to stay on the lift.
------------- |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: April-21-2010 at 1:23am
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Thinking out loud here...I'm a little disappointed with a few vibrations the boat has. I discussed this with Pete over the phone and will try a few things along with an alignment check. I'd be surprised if it was bad, but it needs to be done anyway.
Our 88 was so much smoother than the 96. Is this due to the composite stringers not absorbing the vibrations? The only other difference I can come up with is that the 88 had a four blade prop and the 96 has a 3. Thoughts? Suggestions? ------------- |
Posted By: emccallum
Date Posted: April-21-2010 at 11:13am
| If your alignment is fine and doesnt solve the vibration, get a CNC prop. Smooth as glass. I am running a 470 three blade Acme in my 95SNOB and it works great. A buddy of mine recently bought a 2006 SN and it overreved and shook like a teenage cheerleader, we put my prop on it and it was amazing how good it ran. |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: April-21-2010 at 12:31pm
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I will get Joe to take a couple pics of the channel and the additional helper hole Jody described. It was really easy to feed the new cable back through after the heater hoses were removed. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: April-21-2010 at 1:34pm
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Mike....have you tried reaching through the airbox? ------------- |
Posted By: fanofccfan
Date Posted: April-23-2010 at 10:35am
| my 96 has a 4 blade stainless oj prop and has a lot more vibration than that of my buddy's 86. i have tried a 3 blade nibral and it helped a little but not enough to keep it. on another note...storm...did you ever get that trailer in lincoln? |
Posted By: emccallum
Date Posted: April-23-2010 at 12:45pm
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I wouldnt take too much out of comparing two used props. I have run three and four blade props that are perfectly smooth. The decision should be based on performance. I wouldnt consider any prop that wasnt CNC'd. Figure out what prop works for the way you use your boat, and buy a new prop, properly install it (after checking shaft alignment and bushings) and enjoy it! You may want to go to Acme's website and read about props. The last time I checked they had some good information.
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