prop shaft removal
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16898
Printed Date: June-26-2024 at 10:21am
Topic: prop shaft removal
Posted By: benrankin33
Subject: prop shaft removal
Date Posted: March-24-2010 at 11:11pm
| In a nut shell I can't get it out! |
Replies:
Posted By: benrankin33
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 12:10am
| Does any body have advice on how to remove the priop shaft in 1990 ski nautique? |
Posted By: malibud
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 12:38am
| on my 85 2001 I borrowed my buddies steering wheel puller . It worked fine but it was on there tight |
Posted By: benrankin33
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 12:41am
| I can't get the prop shaft out, to replace strut bushing, have you had any experiance with this? |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 12:45am
|
Ben,
I know of two methods to do this. Method #1 is to remove the motor. Then it is easy to remove. Method #2 is to use a tall 1" Diameter Socket or a 1" Dia Pipe between the Drive Shaft and the Drive Shaft Coulper and four threaded rods with nuts. You use the threaded rods to pull the coupling off of the shaft. The Coupler will slid over the 1" dia socket or pipe. The piece of pipe is between both couplings and is on the drive shaft 1" dia and the Trans Coupling. The coupling is on with a taper fit. To put it back together some put the shaft in the oven and the coupling in the freezor and the quickly put them back together. The new shafts use a key way type system that is easy to work with. Do a search and I think that it was Pete Brainard (8122pbrainard) that put up a drawing that shows how the threaded rod puller system works. They use a piece of pipe or a socket to place between the couplings. Send me a e-mail to tilley165@bellsouth.net and I can draw a picture and scan it to you via e-mail. However, the picture is on this site if you do the search function. It may have been done by the Boat Dr., but I am thiking that it was by Pete. If I was you I would also install a Drip Less Packing kit while you have this all apart. JMO. I hope this helps, Donald |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 12:46am
|
you cant remove the coupling? describe further, more explanation from you is needed ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 12:46am
|
Be patient, lots of old folks around here are in bed already. I'm sure you'll have an answer in the morning if not sooner.
I'm almost positive there are threads on this if you haven't searched give it a try. Heat is always a good option if you have a torch. |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 12:47am
|
if im in bed this early, you know what im doin ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: malibud
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 12:52am
| you know thats right ...Donald has the right idea a steering wheel puller is about 20bucks and you can return it if you want |
Posted By: benrankin33
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 12:59am
| I read the response @ the coupler puller, but I guess I need pictures, Donald i will email u. Eric I have removed rudder and all coupler bolts, bailing wire etc. nothing will budge,have i forgot somthing.And by the way thanks for everyones patience with me,first nautique. |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 1:06am
|
Ben,
I will send you a drawing in the morning. The coupler is on with a Taper Fit. It is a PITA. If your Drive Shaft is bent. The new ones have a different setup. Donald |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 9:10am
Actually I think you got that backwards.  You want to put the shaft in the freezer and the coupler in the oven. Metal does the opposite in that it SHRINKS when cold and EXPANDS when it's hot. We used to soak wing to fuselage attach bolts in liquid nitrogen to shrink them before we drove them in place on a 727. It made the job less easier and didn't need quite the hammer to get em to go in. Here in the shop we have liquid nitrogen on hand and the machine shop is constantly tapping into our supply to shrink the bushings they manufacture before installing them in engine cases.------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Donald80SN wrote:Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 9:50am
|
or call A.R.E and buy a double taper shaft, he is out in Oregon and the place is called Elberts, Cecil is the owner
there is no easy way to gat the coupling on, unless you do what they say above, no knicks can be on the shaft or the coupling will stop half way, then your really screwed ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: benrankin33
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 10:12am
| I cant get the coupler to seperate from trans. coupler. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 10:26am
|
Take a old wood chisel and hammer to the parting line betwen the two halves. It's common for them to be rusted together.
Next issue will be the coupling half removal from the prop shaft. It's not threaded and not tapered unless someones put a ARE shaft in it. It is a shrink to fit. Using the search, http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14256&KW=long+bolt&PID=164796&title=drive-shaft#164796 - here's a thread that may help http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13039&KW=spacer&PID=148821&title=steering-cable-for-66-mustang#148821 - Here's the thread with the sketch of the "long threaded rod trick" ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 11:01am
Eric, From some of your comments you've made lately, the key word in your above stated is "if"!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 11:28am
only if it has been replaced with a taper shaft, the orginal shaft's and even some replacement shafts are straight with a slight press fit and keyway. Also if you are using the threaded rod method make sure the solid piece be it bar stock or a socket the O.D. has to be 7/8" or smaller or it's never going to work. You might have to use a rubber mallet to get the coupling halfs to seperate as they like to rust up. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 11:44am
I've got to get our IT guy up here to check my computer. It's got a echo on it?  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 1:43pm
hey that wasn't posted when I started to type ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 1:49pm
Chris, Sounds like you type like I do!! 28 minutes? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 2:01pm
|
No it's just switch to work related stuff then back to the important stuff. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 2:30pm
|
It's probably not a double taper, since he did mention the word "bailingwire"
Worst case senario of coupler gaulding, either cut the shaft and buy a new one, or pull the engine. |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 2:39pm
Why, you like pissing money away? get the half seperated hards part of the job sometimes, then use a puller and it come right apart, no need to remove the engine or cut the shaft. You need to work smarter than work harder. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 2:50pm
| Worst case senario, meaning stuck so hard that a puller will bend the coupler anyway. |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-25-2010 at 2:54pm
well if you don't know what your doing and grabing it by the flang instead of the meaty section of the coupling but worst case get a new coupling or have the old one faced which you should have done anyway. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: benrankin33
Date Posted: March-26-2010 at 7:08pm
| Guys thank you for all the info.,amazed @ the knowledge out there, it has been very helpful! In case anyone is wondering, I cut out the drive shaft, going to order double taper shaft and dripless. Is OJ dripless seal a good one.I noticed it about 50 bucks cheaper than PSS seal any info? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-26-2010 at 8:46pm
|
Ben,
Just FYI if you don't want to or don't have the cash to spend on the dripless, the way to go is with the Gortex GFO packing in the existing stuffing box. Personally, I feel the dripless is over rated and really not needed. Good news on the ARE shaft. That is a very nice product. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: benrankin33
Date Posted: March-26-2010 at 9:46pm
| I would rather not spend the money, but I don't like water in the bilge. Is there a clear advatage to dripless seal vs the gortex packing? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-26-2010 at 10:54pm
|
Ben,
Since you're putting the double taper shaft in and it makes pulling the shaft coupling easy and fast so I suggest you try the Gortex first. Then, if you don't like 1 drip per minute you can easily put in the drippless system. What's the problem with water in the bilge? You do realize it is more the norm for a boat!
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: benrankin33
Date Posted: March-26-2010 at 11:34pm
| I think I will take your advice with the gortex, I have worked very hard in my other boats to eliminate water in the bilges. It has cost me alot of money in the past, but being a boat owner I know the old saying. Guess I'am just anal about it. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-27-2010 at 9:07am
Ben, You haven't worked hard to keep water out of a bilge unless you've owned a wood boat that needs a new bottom! Have you owned one? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: benrankin33
Date Posted: March-27-2010 at 10:19am
| I have never owned a wood boat, but I can only imagine, thanks again for the info. |
Posted By: LaurelLakeSkier
Date Posted: March-27-2010 at 10:27am
It was nice that you didn't mention Pete by name..... |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-27-2010 at 10:51am
Ok, I seem to remember that you were always the one who needed his beauty rest and never wanted to be out very late at GL!! Those barefoot runs sure and hard on the older generation! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-27-2010 at 11:12am
|
be sure to call Elberts direct, if not the shafts are pricey...do a search, i guess i can do that now unless someone distributes ARE shafts ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: benrankin33
Date Posted: March-27-2010 at 11:49am
| Cecil sent me to Discount Inboard Marine, price is 315.00+shipping, do you know of a better price somewhere? |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-27-2010 at 12:10pm
|
it sounds like Cecil is using the code of the road, still cheaper than a single taper. ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: March-27-2010 at 12:17pm
|
I should have waited, I gave 336.00 4years ago.
I used to work on boats that were equipped with the dripless seal. IMO they were a lot more hassle. I have always run my stuff box a little tighter, maybe 6 drips a day. this way any drips will evaporate. AT |
Posted By: benrankin33
Date Posted: March-27-2010 at 1:11pm
| It sounds like I should stick with stuffing box, sure is alot cheaper! |
Posted By: malibud
Date Posted: March-27-2010 at 1:35pm
| Skidim is the cheapest for the shaft w/ the 10% discount kind covers shipping |
Posted By: benrankin33
Date Posted: March-27-2010 at 1:47pm
| Dan, Is Discount Inboard Marine the same as Skidim? |
Posted By: benrankin33
Date Posted: March-27-2010 at 1:55pm
Never mind answered my own ques.! 
|
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-27-2010 at 9:08pm
|
I am happy with the gore-tex packing. I only get about a pop can's (soda for you easterners) worth of water in a several hour wakeboard session. More water than that comes from the boarders! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: March-27-2010 at 9:19pm
|
hahaha! Chris, Pop turns into soda south of Lineville, IA also.
AT |
Posted By: emccallum
Date Posted: March-28-2010 at 1:39am
| I put in the PSS in my 82 several years ago. Clean dry bilge, . But, you are right, it is pricey. |
Posted By: benrankin33
Date Posted: March-28-2010 at 2:53pm
| Has anyone had any experiance with tho OJ dripless seal, it's 50 bucks cheaper than PSS? |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: March-28-2010 at 6:33pm
It's a Coke can's worth down heahh in da south. ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-28-2010 at 7:42pm
Ben, You really must have a phobia about water in the bilge! Do you know how to swim? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: benrankin33
Date Posted: March-28-2010 at 8:16pm
|
Pete, I am a very good swimmer, but you are partially right, water in the bilge does bother me.lol!
|
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: March-29-2010 at 1:35am
You 2 guys are killin' me...wanna compare birthdates? john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: wetskier2000
Date Posted: December-11-2021 at 8:13pm
|
if I pull the prop first, can the prop shaft slide by the rudder or do I need to pull the rudder also? ------------- Current: 1997 Nautique Previous: 1987 Nautique 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: December-11-2021 at 10:20pm
|
97? Should be offset enough to get the shaft past the rudder. I dont think that was the case in older boats. ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: December-12-2021 at 5:49am
Is this dealing with your thread in the link below asking about replacing your cutlass bearing? http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49686&KW=&title=cutlass-bearing-expected-life-and-changing-it" rel="nofollow - link I'd lay under the boat and see if you have any rudder offset as a start.
|
Posted By: wetskier2000
Date Posted: December-12-2021 at 8:00am
|
thanks guys... Yup, just getting around to changing the cutlass bearing now... ------------- Current: 1997 Nautique Previous: 1987 Nautique 1964 American Skier |