Rear Main Seal - DIY, or have shop do it?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1691
Printed Date: November-26-2024 at 9:03am
Topic: Rear Main Seal - DIY, or have shop do it?
Posted By: Guests
Subject: Rear Main Seal - DIY, or have shop do it?
Date Posted: May-19-2005 at 4:56pm
I've got a '96 SN w/GT40, it appears that the rear main seal (RMS) is leaking/weeping (mild but persistent slick under the engine and a trail down the vertical face of the bell housing). Although the oil pan gasket is a possible culprit, I've been told that the RMS is more likely.
How difficult is replacing the rear main seal, on a difficulty scale of 1-10, easy-hard?
I'd need to remove the transmission to access the RMS, also the bell housing and flywheel - will I have to rig up a sling or some such to support the rear of the engine so it does not torque the front engine mounts, with the transmission removed?
Am I better off just taking it to a competent shop that deals with inboards, and have them do it and check the shaft alignment too?
Thanks
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Replies:
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: May-19-2005 at 6:09pm
If it is leaking down the center of the flat piece in front of the bell housing (the starter alignment plate) it is the rear seal. I don't think you can get to it by removing the flywheel. I think you will have to pull the engine, then the oil pan to get to the rear seal.
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Tim D
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Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: May-19-2005 at 6:56pm
Tim,
Yes, leaking down the center of the flat piece in front of the bell housing.
I can probably drop the oil pan without removing the engine (although swapping oil pans would require removing the engine).
Since the engine-transmission assembly is supported with two mounts near the front of the engine and two mounts at the transmission, my concern is what happens when the engine is separated from the transmission - are the two front mounts alone sufficient to support the engine without damaging anything.
Anyhow, thanks for your comments.
-Dave
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Posted By: David F
Date Posted: May-20-2005 at 1:28pm
Dave:
In order to remove the transmission, you must support the back of the engine. Most people simply block the engine up with wood placed under the exhaust manifolds A bottle jack on one side can be used in lieu/combination of wood to allow vertical adjustment for reassembly alignment.
If it were me, I would pull the engine to replace the rear seal...that is if you have the equipment handy to do so.
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Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: May-24-2005 at 12:47pm
David,
I see what you mean.
I don't have easy access to equipment necessary to pull the engine, so I may rig a wooden frame to pull up on the rear lift ring on the engine.
I've been thinking of trying to rig a sling for the transmission (PCM 1.23) too, it looks a bit heavy.
Thanks for the suggestions!
-Dave
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Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: May-27-2005 at 11:13pm
Dave-
I used the bottle jack method to remove my PP trans and it worked great. Just snug the jack up against the bottom of the manifold. The engine is fairly balanced on the front mounts so your jack is not supporting that much weight- just holding it steady. The power plus trans is light- something like 70 lbs. I lifted it out by myself with no problem. When I put it all back together it was still perfectly aligned.
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Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: May-27-2005 at 11:15pm
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Also, undo the rear mounts where they meet the aluminum piece at the stringer. Should be 2 bolts per side. Leave the whole mounts attached to the trans completely.
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