strut bushing replacement plan
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17001
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 12:34pm
Topic: strut bushing replacement plan
Posted By: tapenick
Subject: strut bushing replacement plan
Date Posted: April-03-2010 at 11:24pm
|
Spring is here.. getting the boat ready to go and planning to change the strut bushing that I've been suspicious of. Here's the plan: Get Vesconite bushing: http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=OJ2032B - http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=OJ2032B and prop puller from skidim: http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=OJ2 - http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=OJ2 Remove prop (should I expect to have to heat?) Remove strut Hacksaw blade old bushing and remove Hammer in new bushing (no need for press?) Replace strut (siliconing well) Replace prop using doc’s method: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12866 - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12866 done? Tom |
Replies:
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: April-03-2010 at 11:39pm
|
Looks like you've done your homework!!! I will be doing the same thing in the next few weeks. Let us know how everything goes! ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-04-2010 at 12:31am
|
Tom,
You shouldn't have to hammer the bushings in. A length of threaded rod and some fender washers/nuts on both ends will pull it in nice and gently. Don't forget the alignment. That's really the only important step you forgot. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: April-04-2010 at 1:05am
|
Pete, you are slipping. No comment on the 'siliconing'?
Tom - It is not necessary to remove the strut for bushing replacement. If the strut is bent, then of course it needs to come off. Use 3M 5200 sealant if you do pull it. Silicone seal will not hold up on a underwater joint. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-04-2010 at 1:12am
Chris,  Yes, I meant to comment, got called away, came back and forgot!!
Tom, PLEASE don't use silicone! It doesn't stick so consequently it doesn't seal. I don't even like using the damn stuff on the bathtub!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
SNobsessed wrote:Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: April-04-2010 at 11:04am
|
maybe Pete is turning into a closet siliconer...Pete, I get it in aerosol tubes, just like the cheese tubes,
Im doing a Zodiac inflatable now, i lifted the hatch and it has a 4 cylinder diesel engine, saddle helm seat with foot bolsters...im pulling this one to the lake for a water test..i wanna wait for some 4-6er's on lake Erie...but anyways someone gooed the 1400.00 aftercooler with silicone because they forgot to winterize, or didnt know... ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: tapenick
Date Posted: April-04-2010 at 1:26pm
Roger on the silicon.. thanks! "Not necessary to remove the strut" - I was taking that approach b/c I thought it would be easier than removing the shaft. (from what I had heard) Thoughts? Tom |
Posted By: Okie Boarder
Date Posted: April-04-2010 at 2:02pm
|
DIM says something about freezing the bushings for an hour or so, also. Does that work?
I'm about to embark on the same adventure. Mine is already out and it is going to be about putting it back in and aligning properly. I'm planning to do mine before the engine goes in. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-04-2010 at 2:23pm
Tom, To me it's really a toss up. Both can be a PITA! The one bad thing about removing the strut is you'll need to deal with the strut alignment. Removing the shaft alignment isn't a issue as long as everything is aligned before the cutlass project. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: tapenick
Date Posted: April-04-2010 at 11:00pm
If I go the route of removing the shaft.. I don't have to remove the prop. Right? Maybe I should go see if I can get the shaft apart.. if so... go that route. Tom |
Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: April-05-2010 at 12:39am
|
I decided to pull the shaft rather than dealing with re-aligning and re-sealing the strut. To me it was worth the extra work. I figured the strut had been laser-aligned to that exact spot from the factory and I didn't feel like screwing with that. Pulling the shaft was a PITA. Had to drop the rudder, pull the prop, and extrude the shaft from the flange using the old long-bolts-and-socket trick. But, I did it. Tighten, rotate, tighten, rotate, tighten, rotate. Hacksawing the old cutlass bearings out was also a total PITA with the strut still attached. The fender washers and threaded rod trick worked great with the vesconite bearings. ------------- 2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel 2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com |
Posted By: malibud
Date Posted: April-05-2010 at 3:39pm
| I did what m3fan said ..onehint to get the old cutlass out I cut slits in it w/ a hax saw and jammed an old flat head screw driver in between the cutlass and the strut and twisted. the bearing finally fell out. putting it back in I used the threaded bar method that part was easy |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: April-05-2010 at 3:49pm
works fine with brass bushing, waiste of time doing it to Plastic bushings. Shouldn't need anything more than a rubber mallet to get them in either, it's plastic not brass. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: tapenick
Date Posted: April-10-2010 at 3:24am
Ugh! So I have to pull the prop and drop the rudder if I go the shaft removal route? Hadn't thought that scenario all the way through. Tom |
Posted By: 86BFN
Date Posted: April-10-2010 at 3:48pm
|
You could leave the prop on it you wanted too, but you'll have to drop the rudder. If you have a skid plate on the trailer then you'll have to lift the boat or slide it back a bite to drop the rudder. ------------- 👣 Steve http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4057&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1986" rel="nofollow - 86 Barefoot Nautique 89 Martinique Former Owner: 93 Hydrodyne 350 MAG |
Posted By: tommer12
Date Posted: May-04-2010 at 2:12am
|
Hey guys. how do you know when your strut bushing is shot? is it the "play" in the shaft and strut, or will it be making noise? ------------- 84 SN, 92 SNOB, 2005 SANTE 2006 SN 206 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-04-2010 at 8:35am
|
It's the radial play that shows wear. Now there shouldn't be any play, worn about .010" is time for a new cutlass. Noise is normal. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: tommer12
Date Posted: May-04-2010 at 12:57pm
|
Thanks Pete!!!!! ------------- 84 SN, 92 SNOB, 2005 SANTE 2006 SN 206 |
Posted By: newoldboat
Date Posted: May-05-2010 at 12:56am
| I found a socket that fit perfecly inside the strut and hammered the old bushings out with it. I put the new xpc bushings in the freezer for two hours and took them out one at a time. They slid right in by hand and expanded to a nice tight fit. I wouldn't remove the strut unless it is necessary. |
Posted By: tapenick
Date Posted: May-23-2010 at 1:19am
|
Talked to Richard @ skidim.. he discouraged me from removing the strut too. He also said that he thought the shaft was directly inline with the rudder on my boat so the rudder would have to be dropped. So - no need to remove the prop if I'm dropping the rudder.
Bushings on order, skipped the prop puller. I'm feeling pretty good about disassembly.. really only concerned about getting the coupler back on the shaft. Richard said he heats them in the oven and puts ice on the shaft.. but that it was still a pain. Any advice there appreciated! Tom |
Posted By: tapenick
Date Posted: May-25-2010 at 12:17am
Had to work late but managed to swing by and get the dog house and back seat out. Glad I at least did that .. saw a couple of questions. I think they're no-brainers but just checking:
BTW - I know the coupler has to be taken apart. And planning on doing the long bolt / socket trick to get the back half off the shaft. Didn't get any suggestions on getting it back on the shaft. Tom |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-25-2010 at 9:06am
|
Tom,
I don't see any signs of fretting unless you've wiped down the shaft just aft of it's coupling. It will be a black and is actually metal worn out of the coupling fit to the shaft. If you have a hard time getting the coupling off, then it's good!!
Clean and prep both the coupling and shaft making sure there are no burrs. Get the coupling into your oven and crank it up all the way. Usually this is 550. A couple house will do it. It should slip pretty easy onto the shaft but some light tapping may be needed to say line up the set screws with the dimples on the shaft. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: tapenick
Date Posted: May-29-2010 at 2:46am
Sorry for the slow progress guys, I'm only getting 30 min or so every few days to hit it. This 'sunk in' yesterday.. how would I go about lifting the boat? Assuming jacks.. with 2x4s or something to distribute the pressure? Any particular place on the boat I should lift? Have the coupler separated and have picked up the all-thread and other hardware. Hope to make some progress Sun or Mon. Tom |
Posted By: tapenick
Date Posted: June-05-2010 at 1:22pm
|
I have the 'press' put together.. stopped yesterday b/c I was running out of daylight and didn't have a deep well socket with me to tighten the bolts. Also wanted to take a mirror over to make sure the socket was centered.
Speaking of deep well sockets - I checked skidim's write-up on this procedure and they used a deep well. Wouldn't be a big deal but as you can see from the attached picture I don't think I cut my bolts long enough to accomodate a deep well. Think a standard socket is going to be long enough to press the coupler off? 
Tom |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2010 at 1:33pm
|
Tom,
I don't feel you'll get it all the way off with the standard socket. Get as much as you can, back off the bolts/nuts and put the deep socket in to finish it off. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: tapenick
Date Posted: June-05-2010 at 1:41pm
Thanks Pete - I think I have enough all-thread to make a longer 'press'. Tom |