rusted block drains ?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17219
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 8:43am
Topic: rusted block drains ?
Posted By: brittcrowell
Subject: rusted block drains ?
Date Posted: April-21-2010 at 3:13pm
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So with the trailer fixed, on to giving the boat some TLC.
Went to put back in my block drain plugs and man are they rusted up. Going to my grand paps shop, I know he has a lot of taps. Is that a good/bad idea? what size are those threads? One side is really bad, the other is so so. I know that I should replace them with quick drains. Can you replace the one under the water pump with a quick drain too? 
------------- '93 Ski Nautique (needs new interior) |
Replies:
Posted By: east tx skier
Date Posted: April-21-2010 at 3:31pm
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The block drains are 1/4" npt as is the drain on the j-tube. The manifold drains are 3/4" npt. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2383&sort=&pagenum=7&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1998 Ski Nautique (Red & Silver Cloud); GT-40; Perfect Pass Stargazer; Acme 422. |
Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: April-21-2010 at 3:59pm
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Is that a crack next to the hole on the bottom pic? I've used alot of PB Blaster and a soft cylinder shaped brass brush (like a gun brush) on a cordless drill to clean the threads up before, but that one may be too far gone. ------------- ...those who have fallen and those who will. |
Posted By: brittcrowell
Date Posted: April-21-2010 at 4:10pm
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Gun brushes! Duh! Thanks man, I went to HF and Lowes looking for something yesterday when all I had to do was stop by WallyWorld and head for the sporting goods dept. Heck I even might have one or two laying around in the gun cleaning kit for my 16ga.
Britt ------------- '93 Ski Nautique (needs new interior) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-21-2010 at 4:26pm
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Britt,
It wouldn't hurt to run a tap in to chase the threads beside the wire brushing. Since a pipe thread is tapered, you don't want to go to deep otherwise the plug will be too deep and loose. When you feel the tap tighten up, just go one more turn. BTW, I believe the plug on the J tube is 1/8". Check it. Yes, brass quick drains are a good idea. Won't rust but use the ones with the removable stems so you can still probe the hole for sediment when draining. I'll see if I can get you a picture. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: brittcrowell
Date Posted: April-21-2010 at 4:37pm
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The J tube uses the same brass plug as the engine block.
SkiDim has these. $81 http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MCM001%20 - http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MCM001  ------------- '93 Ski Nautique (needs new interior) |
Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: April-21-2010 at 4:59pm
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Granger has them as well ------------- ...those who have fallen and those who will. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-21-2010 at 5:34pm
DO NOT use that kit from Skidim. To this day I can't understand how they can sell a means of draining that can't be probed for sediment. Here's the removable stem stock cocks I as well as others have found to be the best. The center valve stem unscrews completely.
You'll note the are available in 1/8, 1/4 and 3/8" pipe size. If your manifolds ar 1/2 or 3/4" you'll need a bushing. I suggest brass. Here's a link: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/948/=6rcuda - stop cock EDIT: The link isn't working for me. Go to www.mcmaster.com and enter # 4921K2 for the 1/4" size ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |