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Tight steering 95 SN

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17355
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 2:26pm


Topic: Tight steering 95 SN
Posted By: dstop
Subject: Tight steering 95 SN
Date Posted: May-01-2010 at 11:47pm

Hi Folks

I have a 95 ski nautique which i bought last spring,   ran great all summer .
I just put it in the water after it was stored for the winter   The steering seems very tight   Any ideas ?

Thanks



Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-02-2010 at 12:01am
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17283&title=tight-steering - tight steering from April 26 in this section

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: dstop
Date Posted: May-02-2010 at 12:14am
Steering is especially tight when moving slowly gets somewhat better as you speed up, the faster you go the better it gets. But still to tight at skiing speed. What would it take to lube up or change cable ?


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-02-2010 at 10:39am
First identify the problem before getting a cable. Disconnect the cable at the rudders tiller arm and test. Pulling the rudder from the port or replacing the cable are not difficult. The hardest part of R&Ring the cable is getting the new one in! If it comes down to a cable, tie the new to the old to pull the new one in.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: SKI NH
Date Posted: May-12-2010 at 4:01am
I fought with tight steering on my 86 Marlin Magnum Skier for years trying to lube the cable and such. I finally decided to bite the bullet and put in a new one. I ended up getting the complete cable, housing and helm from West Marine for less than $300 and it only took a couple of hours to change. Now steers like power steering. I'd highly recommend it.

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SKI NH


Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: May-12-2010 at 1:41pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

tie the new to the old to pull the new one in.


Be sure to do this!!

If your 95 is anything like my 96 SNOB, which could be different, you can take the bilge blower hose off the air box and reach your hand in to help feed it through. I would have never got my cable through by just pulling with a rope at the other end.

Snap some pics and let us know what your air box looks like.

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Posted By: emccallum
Date Posted: May-12-2010 at 1:56pm
Pete.....I have always tied a rope to the old cable and pulled it out. Then, tie the rope to the new cable and pull it from bow to stern. I wonder if it would be easier to splint the two cables together and just pull it through? I may have try that next time.....ten years from now!


Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: May-12-2010 at 2:02pm
I was bummed I couldn't do this with my cable, would have made life MUCH easier. They have the steering box that gets in the way. Works like a dream with throttle cables!!!

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Posted By: dstop
Date Posted: May-20-2010 at 11:04am
Ok. After all I have decided to change out the cable.   Now the question is should I attempt to do it myself or should I give it to my mechanic ?   He is quoting between $ 400. And $500.   Says the cable costs around $200 and around 3 to 4 hrs labour.   I think I would consider doing it my self for two reasons. First I would save the labour cost and secound If he does it I would have to bring it into the city from the lake leave it with him and then bring it back, which is a pain. On the other hand I don't want to mess it up.    So I would need really good step by step instructions. (does anyone have this) also according to my mechanic the cable could be different on the same year model and he says he would need to get the exact number of the old cable , which could only be gotten when he gets in there. Is this true.   How could I make sure I order the right cable.     

Any help from you guys would be much appreciated.      


Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: May-20-2010 at 4:26pm
I helped a buddy replace his over a long lunch hour. It is easy to do. Call N3 or WhiteLake and they will sell you the proper cable.

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Mike N

1968 Mustang







Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: May-20-2010 at 4:54pm
using the rope method is a waist, just get under the bow and feed it through piece of cake, its the bend at the begining that makes it hard so if your in the bow you can control the cable and feed it through. If you pull it from the stern then your fighting this bend all of the time, the cable is stiff enough and large enough that it pushes through quite easily takes less than hour tops.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: dstop
Date Posted: May-20-2010 at 5:33pm
I just called N3   they are quoting the Cable item # S2205   at $291.00   does that sound right?


on another note   I read else where that   this problem could infact be due to a problem with the rudder . ie   needs to be greased or shaft repacked ?    Any thoughts on that ?


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: May-20-2010 at 5:57pm
can be, that is why you disconnect the cable at the tiller arm and find out which one it is.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: dstop
Date Posted: May-20-2010 at 6:08pm
how do I get to the tiller arm to make the disconection


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: May-20-2010 at 6:24pm
remove the back seat and gas tank maybe on that yr model I believe.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: May-20-2010 at 7:27pm
with a 95 you'll have to remove the back seat (back rest and bottom) along with the access panel. You should be able to reach everything from there without removing the gas tank. The tiller arm is located under the gas tank on the left side. The right side has has the exhaust running through it. You'll see it once you get in there

I just went thru this not too long ago. Pretty simple process once you know what your doing.



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Posted By: harddock
Date Posted: May-20-2010 at 7:39pm
Make sure you buy the exact length cable. Certain if not all Correct crafts had sizes kinda unique to Correct Craft. This may require buying the cable from a dealer. 6" too long or too short will throw off the steering geometry.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4487" rel="nofollow - 1998 Ski Nautique









Posted By: dstop
Date Posted: May-21-2010 at 10:25pm
Ok. Today I opened up the boat. Took off the engine cover took out the back seats. Pulled up the floor boards. And disconnected the steering cable from the rudder assembly    Result. The rudder moves smooth as silk on it's own. Verdict I need to change the cable. After all that work taking everything apart I am confident that it should not be a problem to Change the cable.   So I called N3. According to them the cable is $ 291.00. I'm going to order and tackle the job in about two weeks from now.    Any comments are welcome.   Thanks for all the advice so far


Posted By: dstop
Date Posted: May-21-2010 at 10:25pm
Ok. Today I opened up the boat. Took off the engine cover took out the back seats. Pulled up the floor boards. And disconnected the steering cable from the rudder assembly    Result. The rudder moves smooth as silk on it's own. Verdict I need to change the cable. After all that work taking everything apart I am confident that it should not be a problem to Change the cable.   So I called N3. According to them the cable is $ 291.00. I'm going to order and tackle the job in about two weeks from now.    Any comments are welcome.   Thanks for all the advice so far


Posted By: dstop
Date Posted: June-03-2010 at 12:58am
WOW. I just finished changing the cable. I must say that siting in the drivers seat with the new cable in was very satisfying. The steering turns so smooth. I could turn it with one finger. The job was actually so easy. Took 90min. Took of the engine cover, took out the back seats , lifted up the floor board. Disconnected the cable from the rudder.
Then I removed the 4 bolts that hold the rack end of the cable. This is just under the dash. Then I pulled the old cable out.

The trick is to tie a rope onto the end of the cable so that when you pull it out the rope comes threw with it, you can then pull the new cable back threw in the other direction.

I had my son help me with removing the cable as it's a little hard to just pull in out. we needed also to feed it from the other end.   Then you just tie the rope onto the new cable a feed it back the other way. Also a two man job

Once its in place , Connect it to the rudder.   You then need to bolt in the new rack. To adjust the steering wheel so that it is in the right position when your rudder is straight you should bolt the rack in with just 2 bolts. I suggest cross corner. Then turn the wheel till the rudder is exactly straight. Then loosen the 2 bolts so that the wheel can spin freely, with out turning the gear in the rack. turn the wheel as if you where going straight. While holding the wheel in that position bolt in the rack. You should at this point be done.

I did purchase the cable from N3. Brad was very helpful and they give a 10% discount on parts to CCF members

So it cost me $261.00 plus $30.00 shipping.   

All in all I am so happy with the results.

Thanks to everyone who posted the above info. I am sure I would not have attempted this project with out all your explanations and supports

Thanks    

       


Posted By: Scrawford
Date Posted: June-03-2010 at 3:19am
This could be interesting. My cable is completely useless so I ordered a standard 20' version this morning. I figure there has got to be somewhere in the bow to bury that extra 6" of cable. I'll know for sure Friday, it is coming 2nd day air so I have it in time for the weekend. I would have ordered it from a CC dealer but NO ONE had one in stock. I hope I didn't just waste $130...

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Eric

97 196 Closed Bow


Posted By: SKI NH
Date Posted: June-03-2010 at 1:41pm
You will mprobably find that you will need to readjust the wheel since due to the prop rotation, a straight rudder isn't necessarily straight if you know what I men. Congratulations though. You'll enjoy not fighting with that steering anymore!

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SKI NH


Posted By: Scrawford
Date Posted: June-03-2010 at 2:06pm
Yeah, that is what I figure. Some posts on another forum said that when they used a standard cable the boat turned more to one direction than another. To me that sounds like a fault of the installation, not of the cable. I'll post my findings early next week after I try it out over the weekend. Yay, now my wife will be able to drive without complaining!

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Eric

97 196 Closed Bow


Posted By: dstop
Date Posted: June-03-2010 at 2:29pm
Actually. now that you mention it. the old cable that I pulled out was just a little longer than the new one. around 4" I think someone had put in a 20ft cable sometime in the past.   the new one I got from N3 is the exact original cable. I did wonder in the past why there seemed to be slack in the cable down in the bow.   Anyway good luck with your install


Posted By: dstop
Date Posted: June-03-2010 at 2:50pm
hey Eric

I came across this post ... http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5836&PID=55505&title=steering-questions#55505

read form there and downward a few posts. what do you think?

It talks about the right cable length and why the standard cable my not work properly for you.

the things we learn here . wow


Posted By: Scrawford
Date Posted: June-03-2010 at 2:54pm
Yeah, I saw that thread too. Because of time constraints I called Teleflex directly and they said the only difference is the 6" length. I will know for sure tomorrow and will post my findings.

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Eric

97 196 Closed Bow


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-03-2010 at 3:04pm
Originally posted by dstop dstop wrote:

hey Eric

I came across this post ... http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5836&PID=55505&title=steering-questions#55505

read form there and downward a few posts. what do you think?

It talks about the right cable length and why the standard cable my not work properly for you.

the things we learn here . wow


EDIT for proper link: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5836&PID=55505&title=steering-questions#55505%20 - link

I too uderstand that it's not the length that's the problem. It's the throw of the OEM cable. The "off the shelf" will not allow you to turn the rudder/boat as much.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: dstop
Date Posted: June-03-2010 at 3:04pm
cool ... let me know. i am curios if I over spent to get the "correct cable"


Posted By: Scrawford
Date Posted: June-05-2010 at 8:46pm
Alright, so installed the new 20' cable and it worked like a dream. Installation was easy and the extra six inches was no big deal.

I have heard concerns about the off-the-shelf cable having a different stroke than the CC cable so I compared them before install, they are both 8 1/4" stroke. I know the one in the boat was the stock cable because I bought this boat from my dad and he bought the boat brand new. I cannot confirm on other models but on my 1997 the only difference was the 6" of length.

I bought my cable from JMSonline.net, it was about $100 plus $30 for 2nd day air. PN SSC12420

FYI, before ordering the cable I would check to see if you have a backlash issue too, that way you can do both repairs at the same time. Here's how to check:


1. Remove the rubber cap from the end of the rack.
2. Turn the wheel all the way to starboard.
3. Put your finger in the rack housing and rest it slightly against the rack.
4. Wiggle the steering wheel and feel with your other hand if the rack moves.

If you have a lot of slop in the wheel, order the helm gear at the same time. If you need both then it can be less expensive to just upgrade the helm and cable to the 1998+ model through N3. I found out I now need the helm wheel, does anyone know where to get one? I tried N3 and Whitelake and no luck (they only have 1998+).

Thank you everyone for all the advice and help, you guys are awesome!

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Eric

97 196 Closed Bow



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