Separating a Stuck Coupler
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17440
Printed Date: June-28-2024 at 6:11am
Topic: Separating a Stuck Coupler
Posted By: sjpitts
Subject: Separating a Stuck Coupler
Date Posted: May-08-2010 at 2:11am
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Ok, I am trying to do my first alignment check. After I bought the boat I had it checked out, and the shop was supposed to check the alignment, but I don't really think they did.
My coupler looks pretty rusty and it has been at least three years. So naturally the coupler is stuck to the tranny. I did some searching on this site, and found a recommendation to use PBblaster, and a metal putty knife with a hammer to separate the coupler. I have been trying that but with no success. To be honest, I have not been hammering that hard. Is it ok to hammer pretty hard? I don't want to bust something. I also saw in this thread http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14548&PID=168154 - thread to try an old wood chisel. Is it really ok to hammer with an old wood chisel? And again, can I really hit it hard? I have a nice big hammer. 
If that doesn't work, eric levine said to try a torch and an air hammer. But I can't tell if he was serious. An air hammer seems like a good way to break something. But again, I have one.
Thanks for any advice you might have Jared Here is a picture of my rusty coupler from two years ago 
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Replies:
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: May-08-2010 at 4:18am
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You are saying "coupler" but you are showing a picture of your shaft log.
A torch and air hammer will work best but applying a flame to anything in or near the bilge area is pretty scary unless you really know what you are doing. The heating will help separate the two coupling halves and the vibration of the air hammer is more effective than prying or blows from a hammer. Eric is right on. But you will need a lot of heat to heat the coupling quickly. I recommend you continue to soak the coupling with a good penetrating oil and try to drive a wedge between the halves. I have never used PBblaster but there is a product on the market named Kroil which has worked miracles for me and I have had better results with it than any other. You can order it from Amazon.com. Did you loosen your packing nut so as to allow your shaft to slide backwards when the coupling splits? Be patient. You may have to soak the coupling for a few days. I think your best bet is penetrating oil, patience, a wedge (like a wood chisel) and a large hammer. Try the Kroil. ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-08-2010 at 9:43am
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Jared,
JIH is correct - coupling or packing gland?? You say the picture is from 2 years ago but it shows attention is needed to the packing. It's been overheated from running too tight. If it is the packing nut you're trying to remove, keep in mind it's two pieces. The big "nut" towards the trans and then next to it aft is the hex jam nut. You need to break the jam nut loose first. Was it repacked since the picture was taken? Moving farther aft, you'll see the shaft log. This is the metal connection to the glass hull. Is it still fastened firmly to the hull? It almost looks loose in the picture! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Brady
Date Posted: May-08-2010 at 10:00am
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scroll right guys and you will see the coupling ------------- Charlie Three Lakes, Wisconsin 69 Barracuda |
Posted By: LaurelLakeSkier
Date Posted: May-08-2010 at 10:19am
| The coupler is pretty rusty but there looks to be a white index mark on it....maybe it was checked???? |
Posted By: 79TiqueRebuild
Date Posted: May-08-2010 at 10:34am
| Jared, Did you remove the 4 bolts holding it together? |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: May-08-2010 at 11:08am
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Jared - If I were you I would get a 2X4 wedged under the coupler so that you can hammer/chisel without putting any shock load into the tranny bearings. If you ding up the flange surfaces they can be filed back flush. Have at it, give it some persuasion with a BFH. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: May-08-2010 at 11:15am
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Jared-
Drop the front end of the motor using the mounts. The line on the coupler is where somebody indexed it. Nice safety wire job on the coupler. Tim ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-08-2010 at 11:53am
I see you're becoming quite the computer expert!  I did scroll right but used the page scroll and not the picture scroll!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Brady wrote:Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-08-2010 at 12:24pm
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for the life of me I cant figure out why people mark the couplings...it is necessary on 6" shafts and big couplings, because on the big stuff, the prop coupling/ transmission coupling are mated and reamed as a set
not so on these ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: sjpitts
Date Posted: May-08-2010 at 3:22pm
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Thanks for all the replies. This picture was taken a couple of years ago when I was working on the shaft packing-- hence the focus on the shaft packing.. As you guys noted, I had apparently over tightened it causing the packing the fail. I just bought some new gore tex packing from skidim, so I am about to try that again.
I did remove those four bolts on the coupler. I will try my air hammer. I have a cheap harbor freight air hammer with a chisel. I think that might actual be safer than using a BFH. I will report back. Jared PS-- Are the coupler bolts supposed to be stainless? I think I will replace those while I am at it |
Posted By: sjpitts
Date Posted: May-08-2010 at 3:27pm
Now that you mention it, I have always wondered about my shaft log. I does not look good. It really does not look good from under the boat. But it has worked for the last four years, so maybe it ok. I really just have no idea.
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Posted By: sjpitts
Date Posted: May-09-2010 at 5:40am
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Good news. I got the coupler separated. It was actually pretty easy once I got a wood chisel. I did not have to hit it very hard.
So the next issue that came up was how to far it needed to be separated to make sure it was free. I ended up separating it to about 1/16 of inch. See the picture. So then I had to push it back to measure the spacing. I was not sure how to that, so used a bit of hammer and an aluminum drift. It was pretty easy to close the gap. Now on to measuring. Can anyone give some advice. I have a shim tool, but it is really hard to tell what fits and what doesn't. What is the correct technique for using the shims to measure the gap? I basically just kept putting in larger shims until they would not go in any more. But that is tough, because I am not sure how hard to force the issue. So can anyone give me some specific advice as to how to accurately measure with shims? My current best guess is that the alignment seems pretty close top, bottom and starboard, but that the port side is too close. I would say it was about .010 or .008 too close on the port side (compared to what I was getting in the top, bottom, and starboard). But I would like to try it again if someone could tell me the best way to use shims. Thanks Jared %20"> 
%20"> 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-09-2010 at 9:00am
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Jared,
The actual measuring of the gap top to bottom side to side has confused many. This is the part of Eric's alignment thread that really needs clarification. You're looking for a difference between these measurements of no more than .003". What you are really doing is checking parallelism which in turn checks how straight ("true") the prop shaft runs in relationship to the trans shaft. Measuring with a feeler gauge is as the name implies by feel! When inserting one of the gauges, you need to "feel" the same force/resistance. The actual thickness of the gauge doesn't matter as long as you keep in mind the .003". However, lets say one side of the coupling faces are touching. If you are able to get the .004" gauge between the halves on the opposite side, then your alignment needs attention. If the faces are not touching, a example would be if you get .010" on one side and .014" on the other the parallelism is off the same as above. The closer you get the difference to zero the better the alignment. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-09-2010 at 11:43am
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Pete, confuse and conquer....
maybe Kieth can unlock the thread and we will finely hone the topic, touch and measure, but i can see by the pics up top he is not touching and measuring and i could see clarification is needed ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: sjpitts
Date Posted: May-09-2010 at 10:50pm
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OK, I took your advice, and did some more measuring. I basically swapped out different size shims until the friction going in and out felt the same.
Doing this, I got a gap of .008 larger on the starboard side than on the port. The top and bottom was about half that-- maybe .004 larger than than the port side. Although it might be a little tighter on the bottom, it is tough to measure the bottom gap. So now what do I do? I am guessing I want to move the front of the engine a tad to to the starboard, but I have NO idea how to do that. I am going to go check the PCM engine manual, and the alignment thread, but any direction would be appreciated. Jared |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-09-2010 at 10:55pm
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Jared,
Yes you've got the idea. Moving the front of the engine over starboard will tighten the gap on that side. It will also shift the flange centerline to port so you need to watch that. In Eric's thread, there's some pictures showing the mounts and loosening the "pinch" bolts so the engine can be shifted sideways. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: sjpitts
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 3:15pm
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Here are pictures of my engine mounts. Based on what you guys are saying, I just need to loosen up the pinch bolts on the two front mounts and move it slightly too starboard. I don't need to mess with the back mounts. At least not yet.
That seems like it would be easy enough, but it also seems like it would be hard to move it very precisely. After all, I only need to move .008 . It seems like it is going to be hard to only move it that amount-- and that it would be easy to overshoot it. How do you avoid overshooting? Starboard front mount-- with arrow to the pinch bolt I need to loosen: %20"> 
Port front mount -- with arrow to pinch bolt %20"> 
Starboard back mount %20"> 
Port Back Mount %20"> 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 3:50pm
No, you'll need to move the front end more than .008 to get that at the coupling. If you trig it out, you can get a rough idea. I'd do it for you but I flunked trigonometry!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 4:32pm
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Only loosen the pinch bolts on one side. You can then load the motor one way and then loosen the opposite side a touch and tap with a brass hammer until you get it close. ------------- |
Posted By: Okie Boarder
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 8:55pm
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Jared,
I just got done doing this on mine and it was more difficult than I thought to shift mine over. I got some PB Blaster in the shanks where the motor mounts slide. A crowbar worked well, and I also used a 4 x 4 post piece that I tapped. When it struggled to move, I loosened one side, and loaded it up, then tightened. Then I loosened the other side and "tapped" out the loading, like was just mentioned. You keep working it until you get it right. I got mine to .002" difference. |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: May-11-2010 at 1:04pm
why are you hitting it with a hammer and using a pry bar? is it out two three inces? I doubt it. All you should be moving are the jack screws on the four mounts, that is what the square head is for, loosen the jam nuts crank on the jack screw, tighten the jam nut back up and call it a day. don't understand why everyone need to slide it this way and that way, if the engine was out and you didn't pay attention to the alignment when you took it out then maybe, but usually they are only off less than an 1/8 of an inch, lets all work harder than smarter and turn an easy job in to a major PIA ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Okie Boarder
Date Posted: May-11-2010 at 1:58pm
| Mine required the front to move about 1/4"-1/2" to get it right. I may have been a little off on the measurements on my rebuild. I would agree that just realigning without a rebuild probably doesn't require that. |
Posted By: sjpitts
Date Posted: May-11-2010 at 9:19pm
There is a jack screw for moving the front of the engine left and right? That is what I need to do. I don't see such a screw, but I haven't really looked yet. Jared |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-11-2010 at 9:27pm
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Jared,
I feel Chris is confused and consequently confusing you. Alignment does often involve ups and downs as well as side to side. Yes, the up and down is via threads on the mounts but the side to side does involve loosening the pinch bolts and sliding the mount on the mount rods. It's just like Eric in his thread explained. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: May-12-2010 at 4:14pm
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actually it's really hard to tell exactly what direction it truely needs to go if your using a feeler gauge, To get a true reading you should be using a wire gauge and probe all around, your just checking in 90 degree incruments vertical and horizontal so that is why you view it that it needs to go right or left or up and down for that matter when in actuallity it's above or below those points where it is the widest gap so dropping one mount or another gets you to the desired alignment. If your only looking in the horizontal or vertical plane then that is all you are going to try and adjust, but that isn't the true picture and thus Why I don't view alignment in those terms or methods, you can leave the blinders on if you want, I don't own a set. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-12-2010 at 4:43pm
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Chris,
A wire gauge? Get out of the stone age!! I'm not flying in a plane equiped with one of your RR engines anymore!!
 ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: sjpitts
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 4:48pm
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So is there anything special about these bolts? I want to replace them when I am done. They look like ordinary stainless to me. But I am not really sure if they are stainless.
Jared |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 4:57pm
WHy do you want to replace them? ------------- |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 5:13pm
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Pin Gauge Pete, point is find the widest gap no matter where it is located circumferencely, you rotate 90 degrees to determine a bent shaft or coupling flange. If the coupling is true to the shaft and the shaft has zero runout and on the transmission coupling if it is true to the output shaft then the gap doesn't move regardless of rotation of either. Correct?
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 5:14pm
to play it safe and They also need to be grade 5 or better ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 5:20pm
???? A 3/8 stainless bolt has a shear strength of around 10,000 lbs x 4 is 40,000!!! Even Billy's or Joe's engines would shear them!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 5:27pm
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so your trying to say regular china junk is good enough? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: sjpitts
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 6:52pm
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I just wanted to replace them because they were a bit rusty. Not too bad, but a bit.
Because they are rusty, maybe they are not stainless. Jared |
Posted By: sjpitts
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 6:53pm
Ok, what does this mean? Are trying to say don't use stainless? I am sorry, I don't get the joke. Jared |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 7:00pm
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Stainless is fine....
Unless you plan on putting a carbide prop on your machine. ------------- |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 7:13pm
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I may see '79's point on this one..
Stainless tends to gall up and sieze a bit easier than grade 5 likes to rust. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: sjpitts
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 7:14pm
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Thanks man for the answer on the stainless.
Next question. I think I have the side to side aligned well enough. But now it is pretty clear that the top has a larger gap than the bottom. May .006. So I am thinking I need to raise the front of the engine. So my best guess is that I need to loosen the lock nuts, and then turn the big silver bolts clockwise just a bit. See the pictures below, I think I need to turn that bolt clockwise to raise the front. And then retighten the lock bolt. Sound like the right plan? Thanks again guys %20"> 
%20"> 
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Posted By: Okie Boarder
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 7:28pm
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Jared,
You got it. |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 8:10pm
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Some brass nuts on your stainless bolts work good :) ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 10:10pm
No joke. I'd go stainless. I did with my 64. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 10:11pm
Never-seize on SS threads. I remember when I first saw the stuff. A saleman came into the shop with a piece of SS threaded rod, smashed the threads with a hammer, put the never seize on and then ran the nut off over the damaged threads. The nut was smoking but it came off! It actually re rolled the threads! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 10:14pm
Chris, I don't recall saying and even re read that I ever mentioned "China junk"! I hate to tell you but grade 5's and 8's are coming in from them too. I agree it is a shame. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: sjpitts
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 10:19pm
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I got it done. And I just reused the old bolts. Thanks for all the help.
Jared |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: May-14-2010 at 10:39am
i would be dropping the rear mounts to close the top gap. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: sjpitts
Date Posted: May-14-2010 at 4:15pm
Why is that? Why would you chose one or the other? I thought about lowering the back, but the front seemed a little easier to do. I guess you would have to move it less using the back. Is that it? Jared |
Posted By: Okie Boarder
Date Posted: May-14-2010 at 4:30pm
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I'll let him answer but I'm going to venture a guess. Lowering the back lets the engine sit down farther in the bilge and closer to the stringers. Raising the front does the opposite, which could put some stress on the mounts.
I tried to lower more than raise when I did mine with that thought in mind. Not sure if I'm right but it seems to make some sense to me. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-14-2010 at 4:38pm
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Both are correct. Front or rear mount adjustment may be needed to keep the shaft centered in the shaft log and maintain alignment to the strut. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: sjpitts
Date Posted: May-14-2010 at 5:14pm
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That makes a lot of sense. I didn't think about that.
But in that case, maybe raising the front was right for me. If you scroll up the thread and see the picture of the shaft from under the boat it looks like the shaft is "lower" rather than "higher" in the log. But that picture is a couple of years old. Jared |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-14-2010 at 5:27pm
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Jared,
A true drive train alignment starts at the strut and then goes forward because the strut is the fixed position. Now's the time for you to check to be sure the strut is ok and not bent. What I do and suggest, is with the coupling halves disconnected, make a wood V block to rest the forward end of the prop shaft on. Make it so you can move it around in different positions. When turning the prop shaft you should find the "sweet" spot where the shaft turns the easiest. Hopefully this is when the shaft is roughly centered in the shaft log. If it turns freely, then you know the strut position is good. Clamp off the V block to maintain the position and align the engine to it. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: marcus12
Date Posted: May-14-2010 at 8:22pm
| hi guys i'm in the process of trying to do an alignment myself and it looks like from the back of the engine it needs to go to the right to close the gap. I've loosened the pinch bolts on the front and back, and I can't get thr engine to budge a bit even with a hammer and crow bar. Any suggestions? |
Posted By: Okie Boarder
Date Posted: May-14-2010 at 8:30pm
| Make sure the pinch bolts are completely loose so you can move them with your hand. Put some PB Blaster on the shanks from the trunions and let it soak in real good. Then try moving it again. |
Posted By: marcus12
Date Posted: May-15-2010 at 1:19am
| When you say pinch bolts are completely loose, do you mean the nut on the threaded bolt? I have the nut completely off both front and rear threaded bolts "pinch bolts" like shown in eric's threadand it still won't budge. I really don't know where to get to put pressure on it either, i'm kind of scared of breaking something. Any help will be greatly appreciated. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-15-2010 at 9:19am
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Marcus,
The pinch bolts are the small fasteners that clamp (squeeze) the mount down onto the horizontal shank (round rod - not threaded). These can be stubborn as they do rust up inside. Sometimes the mount needs to be removed and loosened up on the bench or in the vise. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: marcus12
Date Posted: May-15-2010 at 12:12pm
| But the pinch bolts are the threaded rods right? How do I remove then without messing up the threads? |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-15-2010 at 12:16pm
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the "pinch bolts"
what i do is take the nut all the way to the end of the threads and tap it thru with my brass hammer...i think this is being overlooked. if the mount does not have a split, it is the tapered type mount, so the more you tighten the nut the tighter the trunion. you will notice on the opposite end that there are no means to hold the other end of the bolt.....this is the tapered type. if the mount is split and you see a bolt head at both ends this is the clamp type. simply by loosening the tapered type will not move the trunion, you have to tap it out and release the taper ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: marcus12
Date Posted: May-15-2010 at 12:52pm
| Eric, the engine mount on my 85 SN has a split, so are you saying I need to tap the pinch bolt through the hole toward the bottom, or have I missed something. Sorry for the confusion I've just never done an alignment. |
Posted By: marcus12
Date Posted: May-15-2010 at 1:37pm
 This is a picture of what i'm looking at. What do I need to tap through.
|
Posted By: Okie Boarder
Date Posted: May-15-2010 at 2:07pm
| Tap that threaded piece you have the nut off of. If it is the split style it sounds like it will come out all the way. Otherwise it will kind of tap toward center until it gets to the other side of the interference fit. If it doesn't move easily, do like Eric said and put a nut back on it to keep from messing up the threads. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-15-2010 at 2:08pm
Please read again - slowly.
From your picture, it looks like you have moved the engine sideways. See the shiny spot on the round (NOT THREADED, HORIZONTAL) rod. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: marcus12
Date Posted: May-15-2010 at 2:19pm
| Pete, the picture is deceiving, the engine hasn't moved it looks like it just needs to move about an 1/8 of an inch to the right. I will keep trying. That shiny part is probably from the crow bar or something. |
Posted By: marcus12
Date Posted: May-15-2010 at 2:53pm
This is where i'm at right now 
This is how much room I have on the right side. I put the nut back on the bolt and tapped (knocked) the bolt through as far as it would go and I can't move the engine at all. I must be doing something wrong. |
Posted By: Wacko
Date Posted: May-15-2010 at 3:36pm
| What is the best way to clean up a rusty coupler like the one posted in the first pic in this thread? Anyone have any before and after pics? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-15-2010 at 4:55pm
Read again!!
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |