'87 2001 Project
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17441
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 12:28pm
Topic: '87 2001 Project
Posted By: Go Big 2001
Subject: '87 2001 Project
Date Posted: May-08-2010 at 2:18pm
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I recently purchased a 2001 with gelcoat issues (grey with blue stripe), and intended to do a complete recoat. Futher inspection showed rot in the floor beneath the drivers seat, and foam staturated with water. Looks like this will be a bigger project than expected.
Luckily it looks like the main stringers are salvageable, but I'm probably going to remove all of the orginal foam and replace with higher denisty closed cell foam? (assuming closed cell would resist water absorbsion better than original)? The main stringers have some rot along the tops (maybe 1/4" - 1/2" deep)where the floor board covered them, so I plan to remove the effected area and build it back up. I'm also considering scabbing another piece of treated 2x along side the original string to reinforce things... does anyone see a problem with this approach? Planning to encapsulate the stringers in fiberglass (possibly sprayed in chopped glass) before pouring the new foam, then of course covering the foam with glass matting. Hope to get this accomplished over the next month, then send the boat out for gelcoat (silver all over, and royal blue from the rubrail down to the main hull line). I'll post some pics, and welcome feedback / suggestions. This is my first boat restoration. ------------- '87 Ski Nautique 2001, Monster MT1 Polished Tower, Go Big! |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-08-2010 at 2:35pm
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Ryan,
Before you do anything, it's worth your time to do some reading here . There are plenty of stringer threads with lots of useful info. Do NOT use treated. Chop? Cheap Bayliners are made that way!!! Not a good choice from a strength factor. Do NOT scab in new wood to the old. They are not salvageable. It's not worth it. The spores are in there just wanting to continue. It's a cancer - get it all out. Do NOT use polyester resin. Epoxy is preferred by most Do use CPES. I suggest doing the gel job with original colors/schemes. You'll be paying good money for a gel job. If you don't follow the original, you'll be blowing lots of it's resale value. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Go Big 2001
Date Posted: May-08-2010 at 3:59pm
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Thanks for the suggestions Pete
A couple questions.... What is CPES? Why not treated wood? Thanks - Ryan ------------- '87 Ski Nautique 2001, Monster MT1 Polished Tower, Go Big! |
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: May-08-2010 at 4:07pm
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I had to repair rotted stringers on my 79 martinique. It is a TON of work. It took me about 250 man hours to get my boat back in to shape.
This is cpes http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html CPES fixes rotten stringers without having to replace the stringers all together. It's really the best way to do this. Your boat was built with polyester resin, new ones are made from epoxy resin. Polyester resin is not 100% waterproof, but epoxy resin is. The epoxy is easier to use, and polyester is easier to find. You could use polyester (some still do), but the epoxy resin is much better, and 100% waterproof. I would suggest UScomposites epoxy resin, I used that on a 200g plywood epoxy and glass fish tank build last summer and it is amazing stuff, for a very good price. ------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: May-08-2010 at 5:28pm
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Everything I read says that fiberglass does not stick well to treated wood.
BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: May-08-2010 at 9:13pm
For myself, CPES was like painting on a worry reducer. It's really good stuff. I also think the quote above is a bit optomistic. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
horkn wrote:Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-08-2010 at 10:30pm
Wrong!!! CPES may be good for repairing a rotted out house window sill but it's not a good remedy for stringers. In the case of a stringer job, it's used as a sealer/primer. CPES stands foe Clear Penetrating Epoxy sealer. It's a very low viscosity epoxy that really penetrates deeply into the wood. Ryan, Yes, as mentioned, treated will not allow the resin to bond to it. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: May-09-2010 at 4:30pm
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Well, I do have to say that my stringers were in actually very good shape in comparison to some of the stringer issues I have seen on here.
For me, I didn't need to replace anything beside the flooring and I re glassed the stringers and made the floor out of plywood encased in resin after scooping all the nasty wet foam out. My battery box drain was fiberglassed shut from the factory, but my boat had very low hours on it otherwise I would have had to re do the stringers completely like many on here have. I am lucky I don't know any better;) ------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg |
Posted By: Go Big 2001
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 11:42am
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Thanks for all the feedback, suggestions, and details on personal experiece with this type of project!
I'm definitely going with epoxy resin, and may give CPES a try depending on how the main stringers look after removing rot areas. Looks like I could salvage the outer stringers as well, but they're simple design, so why not make new and replace them. I like the idea of encapsulating the stringers in several layers of glass before pouring foam, and installing marine grade plywood flooring under the top glass. Also considering fabricating aluminum ballast tanks to be mounted under the floor on each side in the rear of the boat. Have you guys seen anything like that successfully done? ------------- '87 Ski Nautique 2001, Monster MT1 Polished Tower, Go Big! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 12:45pm
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Ryan,
The CPES is for new wood on a stringer job. Using the old wood in my opinion just isn't worth taking a chance on. Before you fab up ballast tanks, do some weight calculations. You may find that the area you have to work with won't give you the weight wanted. Others have found this out. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 3:54pm
To much effort on the plumbings and fab for only 500-600lb total. not worth imo... ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 10:09pm
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I personally wouldn't use marine plywood for the floor. It's a waste of money f you encase regular PW in resin like I did.
I use mine for boarding as well, and the added weight from the flooring made it so a simple fat sac in place of the bottom of the back seat makes a great wake. Add a couple 200+ lb guys in back and it gets even better. ------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg |
Posted By: harddock
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 11:20pm
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Some may disagree but I think the 2001 drivetrain was not designed to handle large amounts of ballast and passengers. you might be taxing the transmission with too much weight. As for the stringers, take the advise of those here that have done it successfully. It is alot of work, so you might as well do it right. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4487" rel="nofollow - 1998 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Go Big 2001
Date Posted: May-12-2010 at 7:18pm
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Glad I asked the question on Ballast... I guess pulling the rear seat using fat sacks is the best route.
Just to clarify... When doing plywood floor.over entire area, I don't need foam anymore? Local shop suggested leaving foam out becuase it will absorb moisture. I removed everything in approx 16 hrs... Hard to believe I will have another 230 hrs in rebuild. What do you guys think of the fast flash resin (1-2 hour work window, and full set in 3-4 hrs)? I will try to post some pics this weekend. ------------- '87 Ski Nautique 2001, Monster MT1 Polished Tower, Go Big! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-12-2010 at 7:59pm
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Ryan,
I'd say amongst CCfan'rs, no foam or not to foam is split 50-50. I happen to be a no foam person in favor of keeping it out of the bilge. If you want to make up for lost flotation, extra can be sprayed under the decks and gunwales. Fast or slow hardener depends on the temperature and how fast you can work!!! However, the slower the epoxy cure is the stronger the resin. If your thinking of speeding up the layup process, keep in mind subsequent layers of resin/glass can be laid before the previous completely cures. In fact, it's said to provide a better bond by doing it. Who's epoxy are you looking at? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Go Big 2001
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 2:29am
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At this point I was planning to look at USComposites epoxy as suggested,
After I'm done I may have some chop layed on everything including the inner hull walls.under gun rails... Seems a litte flimsy, and succeptable to kicks and/or pressure from fat sacks. ------------- '87 Ski Nautique 2001, Monster MT1 Polished Tower, Go Big! |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 10:02am
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save your money, don't foam, air pockets will keep you above the water...the coast guard also requires lanyard switches on boats, now why is it i don't see anyone with one wrapped around their wrist you safety buffs? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Go Big 2001
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 3:17pm
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Can anyone suggest a quality gelcoat at an reasonable price? I would like to use Spectrum Color, but can't justify the cost.
------------- '87 Ski Nautique 2001, Monster MT1 Polished Tower, Go Big! |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 4:16pm
It is a ton of hours sanding away the old gel just to get it ready. Is it spidercracked or just faded? Have you thought about wet sanding first. Show some pics. The price of a good gel is really high based on labor alone. You will do good just to get her seaworthy first. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Go Big 2001
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 11:04pm
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The boat needs full gelcoat there are cracks everywhere, so I've been flighing over the boat with 80grit on my DA, and plan to do most of the sanding.
The guys doing my gelcoat are going to inpect the areas of more severe cracking and grind / replace glass where needed, prior to gelcoating. I'm just trying to choose a good gelcoat, I've seen Spectrum at $95 per quart, and Valspar at $65 per gallon. There has to be something in between, and figured you guys would know better than I. Pictures will be on here soon. Now back to the shop for more sanding. ------------- '87 Ski Nautique 2001, Monster MT1 Polished Tower, Go Big! |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: May-14-2010 at 12:06am
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Are you doing a complete stringer job? If there are that many cracks in the hull then it definitely needs it. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Go Big 2001
Date Posted: May-14-2010 at 1:07am
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As far as cracking goes... The underside of the hull and front of hull is fine. There is a patch of vertical cracks on each gun wall, cracks on the lower transom (starting from fastener locations), and on the rear top rail. There are also random cracks here and there (most starting from a fastener).
The gelcoat is oxidized and brittle, and has a serious water line. I assume the boat may have been poorly tied up in slip for extended periods of time, and bounced side to side during incliment weather. Regardless of how it got that way, it needs redone. ------------- '87 Ski Nautique 2001, Monster MT1 Polished Tower, Go Big! |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: May-14-2010 at 1:28am
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It took you 16 hours to remove what? Floor, foam, engine, tranny, cables, wires, rudder, prop shaft and stringers...If the boat was kept in the water, chances are that there is not a single piece of good wood left.
Go with US composites epoxy and glass. Read your ass off on here about the details. My thread "Stringer Questions 73 Skier" can take you through a lot of beginner questions. I started in January and hope to be on the water by the middle of June. (If I am lucky!) ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: May-14-2010 at 2:02am
I did not refoam mine at all. I took most of it out as it was a trap for water. I left the foam all the way to the front, and that was it. I have so much resined wood on mine that it would float with that alone. Add in the air pockets and I really don't worry about it. As to the extra 230 hours, I redid the entire interior, including the seats with tri color vinyl. I spent a LOT of hours grinding fiberglass and itching like crazy. As far as the fat sac, 1 of the larger ones fits perfectly as a seat bottom for the back. The seat shaped fat sacs are too much weight, and too wide as well. I have 2 side sacs, but those don't work as well in either comfort as a seat cushion or wake wise when put in place of the back seat bottom. I tried using the side sacs along side the motor, but they made the wake a bit too crazy. That and they left no floor space to walk on and were a pain for people to move around in the boat. I used the slow setting hardener personally. The fast stuff has a very short window of use, and the slower the set, the stronger it is. On a project the size of a CC, there won't be any issue of not having something else to do while it sets up. ------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg |
Posted By: Go Big 2001
Date Posted: June-01-2010 at 6:47pm
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Quick Update:
I'm doing things somewhat in reverse, as the gelcoat guys had an opening in their schedule I was next on the list, so gelcoat first then outer stringers and floor second. Dropped the boat off on Friday, and may have it back this weekend. I had sanded everything with 80 grit, and they're grinding the cracked areas then reinforcing with a layer glass before gelcoating. Also glassing inside the hull to reinforce areas of concern. They say main stringers are good, but agreed that outers should be replaced. Not looking forward to that job, and trying to keep the new gelcoat from being damaged. Changing the color scheme from Grey with Blue stripe, to White with Black stripe. I dont know if this was a factory color option, but I dont care for the grey and blue, and my color options are limited. Fixing cracks and new gelcoat is going to run me about $2k... seems like a good price to me. What do you guys think? I'm buying 100' of bunk carpet, so let me know if you need some... I should have about 3x what I need. Also sanding and painting the trailer this week! ------------- '87 Ski Nautique 2001, Monster MT1 Polished Tower, Go Big! |
Posted By: Go Big 2001
Date Posted: June-01-2010 at 6:51pm
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BTW: still haven't figured out how to post pics to the forum. ------------- '87 Ski Nautique 2001, Monster MT1 Polished Tower, Go Big! |