Replacing wood engines shims
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17459
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 10:40am
Topic: Replacing wood engines shims
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Subject: Replacing wood engines shims
Date Posted: May-09-2010 at 7:20pm
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I was hoping to get lucky on engine alignment but I did not.
It appears the CC used wooden shims under the rear mounts to align the engine. It looked as if they used 3/4" plywood which, over the years had rotted and become squished. I threw in some epoxy coated 3/4" plywood replacements. Now the engine is 9/32" high and 1/8" to the right (starboard) measured at the shaft coupling. Surely, I cannot be the first to run into this problem. Nothing I can think of sounds easy, fun, nor interesting. I would very much appreciate tips, thoughts, remedies, solutions, ideas, comments and suggestions. Anybody? I am stumped. I be stumped. I am the stumpee. 
 ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-09-2010 at 8:03pm
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Jim,
The wood shims should be tapered so the height can be adjusted at all four corners. Then the shim is drilled for the lags into the stringers. Chris used cast iron wedges after the war (WWII)which are available. Of course that won't be original!!  I have no idea how you ended up with flat shims!!  I'd use some white oak to make them. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-09-2010 at 8:30pm
Jim, here is what my old ones looked like. The new ones I cut a slot between the bolt holes so I could move them to get my adjustment. I learned my lesson years ago not to throw anything away from this boat,so thats why I still have them-
 ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: May-09-2010 at 10:03pm
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Gary,
Where did you get the new ones? Did you make them? How did you cut the angle and get the angle the same on both shims? Thanks for the pics. ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: May-09-2010 at 10:06pm
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Mr. Brainard,
When you say Chris do you mean Chris Craft? Where do you get the cast iron shims? ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-09-2010 at 10:33pm
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Jim,
No band saw to make some? How about a friend. Jig saw? In a pinch, you could even use a hand saw (rip set teeth preferred). If they come out slightly different, one just gets set deeper than the other. Yes, I meant Chris Craft. http://www.finewoodboats.com/ - check this out and give Jim Staib a call You want the "small" wedges. Personally, I think you should just cut some out of wood. BTW, if you need some wood, Gary has got some stashed up in the rafters over his garage. really, he's saving it for a stringer job!!!!------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: May-09-2010 at 10:40pm
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Just asking here, but could they not be easily made out of aluminum? ------------- ...those who have fallen and those who will. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-09-2010 at 10:44pm
Ryan, Yes easy to make. Original no! Even the cast iron's wouldn't be original on a Correct Craft but if Jim does use them, I'll let him "slide" on this one!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
SN206 wrote:Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: May-09-2010 at 11:30pm
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Thanks Pete, I enjoy seeing the older CC's staying alive. In fact some farmer / rig hand asked me on Thursday what I would give him for what I found later to be(I think) an early Atom Skier. It's on a traler but not in very good shape at all. I thought about it, but far more than I think anyone would want to tackle. ------------- ...those who have fallen and those who will. |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: May-09-2010 at 11:35pm
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Gary,
Pbrainard's comments have me looking for a bandsaw on Craigslist. Can I trouble you for the dimensions of your old wedges? ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: May-09-2010 at 11:39pm
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By the way, if any of you noticed the SS exhaust downspout in the pic above, a local fab guy did them for $150 for the pair. I furnished the material. Let me know if you want his name and email address. ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: May-09-2010 at 11:47pm
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"Squished" could only be J_I_M....
you got mail... john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 1:39am
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Thanks John. I've been hiding in the woods. I got a little disgusted when I decided to change the oil in the '68 (about 2 years ago). I couldn't reach the drain plug so I decided to jack up the rear of the engine and install a drain hose. This is when I discovered the shaft log hose was rotten. CC covered the hose with glass so I had to pull the back floor so I cut away the glass with my Dremel tool. This is when I discovered the exhaust hoses were rotten. To remove the exhaust hoses I had to remove the gas tank. This is when I discovered the tank was seriously rusted on the bottom I had to repair the tank with acid and latex liner. When I pulled the exhaust downspouts they crumbled in my hand so I had to have stainless steel downspouts fabricated. I installed the oil drain hose, got all new hoses, fixed the tank, lowered the engine and discovered the rear engine mount lag screws would not hold torque - the holes were either rotten or stripped. I lifted the engine back up, reamed the holes and found good wood. I filled the holes with low viscosity penetrating epoxy. Then I filled the bottom of the holes with a slurry of wood powder and layup epoxy - the top half of the holes with a paste of wood powder and layup epoxy. Made new wood shims (which are designed incorrectly) lowered the engine and drilled new lag screw holes. The good news is the new stainless steel lag screws, which are 1" longer than the originals, are holding a LOT of torque. (But it looks like I am going to have to take them back out.)
I finally did get the oil changed. It took two years. That's what I have been doing. How about you? ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 2:17am
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All I can say is ...wow. More reasons why I never raise my motor box cover unless I have professional help avalible.
Actually we are doing quite well here in Central Florida, thanks for asking. Patti and I are very busy and healthy. Now that you are back (to stay I hope) guys are gonna be asking you to finish the Bayou story you started. john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 2:31am
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Funny how life works Jim. Yes I used a band saw just because I had one. They are 7 1/2" long, 1 1/2" high at the front end and 3/8" at the back. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 2:35am
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Thanks Gary.
What do you guys think of these things stacked up to get the right height? http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3L789?Pid=search - SS Shims ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 2:54am
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I like the wood because maybe it distributes the weight of the engine better.My old ones are actually compressed where the mount pad sits. I think you could just use a circular saw to cut them out. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 3:47am
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Gary, are your lag bolt holes drilled straight down into the stringer, like mine are, or are they drilled at the same angle to the stringer as your transmission mounts (which I guess are at the same angle as the tapered shims)? Know what I mean? I drilled my lag bolt holes through my new wood shims straight down. If I use a tapered shim my transmission mounts will have to turn to that angle, right? But my lag bolt holes are already straight down. Maybe I am over-thinking this. I am considering just using my existing new shims and sanding them down with a belt sander. ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 4:30am
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Jim, you have a gift for stories. Even something simple makes me smile.
Some day I hope to sip a couple of cold ones, smoke a cigar, and listen to you tell some tales. Maybe you might even finish that bayou story. BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 9:19am
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Jim,
Typically the lags go in on a angle matching the tapered shim angle but now that you've done the hole rebuild, Hmmm - thinking?? I'd run them in on a angle. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 10:28am
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With angled shims the up and down adjustment is pretty easy as you just knock the shims forward or backward to get your hieght. The side to side is limited to where your lag holes are unless you're going to drill new lag holes. The lags on our fixed mount engine in our Mustang are on angles.
Your mounts look like they may not have to be angled. What if you cut thinner shims that are slightly low and then raise them using shim stock?  ------------- |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 12:42pm
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Thanks Riley. Great photo. I think that is what I wanted to hear. Where did you get that carpet and how is it held down? Is is glued to the original flooring? Did you glue carpet to the original flimsy cheap vinyl side boards? What is that silver (aluminum?) strip? Is that some kind of flex hose leading out of your exhaust logs? It all looks great - I intend to copy you. Do you have more photos available?
Nice to see your words again BKH. I am always up for a cold brew and thanks for the kind words. I trust you and yours have been well. ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 1:10pm
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Jim, that is Tim Benjamin's boat, not mine. It is a 1972+- Skier. I'm sure he'll chime in if he sees your comments. I posted it as I remember he had similar mounts as yours and there are little chims under the mounts.
Here's the latest picture of ours. We are going to glue down some vinyl flooring. I have painted the inside sides of the hull, although will probably re vinyl the side panels when/if we do the interior over.  ------------- |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 11:23pm
Mine seem to be straight in because the head of the bolts are not flat to the metal of the mount.Mine being a Holman Moody conversion the mounts are off the bellhousing and they do turn to the angle you need,which I think yours do too. You are over thinking it, don't sweat it,you have already done all the tough jobs. Bruce's picture of Tim's boat should help.If you need pic's of mine let me know,I'll be happy to get you some. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |