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Invertaflow repair

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17465
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 11:29am


Topic: Invertaflow repair
Posted By: Chris4x4gill2
Subject: Invertaflow repair
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 2:53am
FInally got the boat running for the season and noticed a sizeable leak coming from the port exhaust hose where it comes in from the riser.

Pulled the hose and this si what i found: ]

My plan is to get some exhaust tubing to fit the ID of the hole, get the shop to roll the edge slightly and then redo the fiberglass on top.

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Replies:
Posted By: Chris4x4gill2
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 2:55am


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Posted By: Hawktique
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 4:11am
I'm in the process of removing the invertaflo and going to a Y-Pipe down to the exhaust.

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"A Veteran is someone who at one point in his life, wrote a blank check made payable to: 'The United States of America,' for an amount of 'up to, and including his life." Semper Fi


Posted By: Chris4x4gill2
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 10:52am
Are you planning on bypassing the muffler altogether?

I had thought of that as an option, but was going to try to repair this first.

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Posted By: Hawktique
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 11:52am
Yes I am. I'm taking out the invertaflo and having a straight pipe made in it's place (modified Y-pipe). Should get better sound and flow that way.

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"A Veteran is someone who at one point in his life, wrote a blank check made payable to: 'The United States of America,' for an amount of 'up to, and including his life." Semper Fi


Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 3:15pm
Originally posted by Hawktique Hawktique wrote:

Yes I am. I'm taking out the invertaflo and having a straight pipe made in it's place (modified Y-pipe). Should get better sound and flow that way.


I have that on my 176.

Can't talk in the boat.

Currently looking at muffler options.

Tim

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Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 3:29pm
If you are handy on the FB job, the muffler is an easy fix.

As for removing the invertaflo, I also wanted to do something to raise the db a little but my concern about going the Y pipes, is it was going to be very loud.
Instead I replaced the rubber carpeted hose that goes from it to the exhaust transom outlet, with a SS pipe. I now hove a deeper tone, and you can seat on the back and its ok.
hereĀ“s a pic o my setup

hope it helps

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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: Hawktique
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 3:37pm
One of my other harps on the invertaflow, it sounds like a little smurf is in there pounding on the side like a drum. I've heard the stories of them going out, so I plan on eliminating it. If it's too loud, I could always splice in a 4" muffler where kapla has his stainless.

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"A Veteran is someone who at one point in his life, wrote a blank check made payable to: 'The United States of America,' for an amount of 'up to, and including his life." Semper Fi


Posted By: Chris4x4gill2
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 5:51pm
I'm fairly decent working with the fiberglass. It might not be pretty when I get done, but it should hold up. I think this will really be a pretty quick / easy fix. I'm going to try to size some metal exhaust piping to the ID of the inlets and then buildup on top of that with fiberglass. I'm hoping that will give me a stronger base to mount the hose and clamps to.

I'm still trying to figure out the best way to flare the metal tubing though. I need it to be just slightly rolled so it will not work its way into the muffler. I'm worried about this becasue the I dont think the Fiberglass will bond very well to the metal and I want to keep it from moving

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 6:18pm
Originally posted by Chris4x4gill2 Chris4x4gill2 wrote:

I'm still trying to figure out the best way to flare the metal tubing though. I need it to be just slightly rolled so it will not work its way into the muffler. I'm worried about this becasue the I dont think the Fiberglass will bond very well to the metal and I want to keep it from moving

Chris,
I'm not following what the flare is for but to make just one, I'd just peen it in or out with the ballpeen hammer and the corner of a vise if a anvil isn't available. You want to remove this piece when done correct? The epoxy will want to stick to it. I'd grease it up and then try to remove it after the first layer of glass isn't fully cured.

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64 X55 Dunphy

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Posted By: Chris4x4gill2
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 7:41pm
Actually I was thinking leave it in. My thinking, it would help prevent the problem from happening again and also keep from collapsing the inlet on accident by over tightening the hose clamps on it.

Good Idea or bad? should I just re glass it and call it a day?

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 9:35pm
Chris,
Re reading, if you flange out, you won't be able to get it out anyway!! You could leave it in. I don't see a problem with that.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Chris4x4gill2
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 10:57pm
I'm starting cleanup of both inlets now, cutting away all of the rotten glass and what looks like a former patch job. There is a bondo like compound built up near where the end of the rubber exhaust hose would be when it is attached to the inlets.

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Posted By: Chris4x4gill2
Date Posted: May-10-2010 at 11:03pm
anyone know the ID size of the hose between the Invertaflow and the risers on the '89. I think 3" but dont have the hose here to double check.

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Posted By: Chris4x4gill2
Date Posted: May-11-2010 at 12:05am
got the cleanup done.

Before



After



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Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: May-11-2010 at 12:01pm
I'd stick a form of some sort in that hole that is close to the original ID, like a Coors Light can or balloon or something and just start wrapping new layers of glass around it. Of course after a few full wraps you'd have to focus on building layers of glass on that broken portion so you don't end up with an oblong shape. I believe those non-HO manifolds are 3" ID.

I'm sure the MANY fiberglass guys here will have all the details and suggestions you could ever want on how to rebuild this.

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-11-2010 at 12:24pm
Chris,
Reading Joel's comment regarding the oblong shape got me looking at the broken out spot again. To simplify and to keep it round, I feel you're better off cutting the whole "nipple" off the muffler. Then use the metal inside form and rebuild out the the proper ID of the hose. Get plenty of glass/resin build with a generous radius at the junction to the muffler itself. Prop/hold the metal form with something like a rod going into the muffler. Don't worry about flaging it. Then pull it out when the first layer of glass is almost cured.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Chris4x4gill2
Date Posted: May-11-2010 at 2:03pm
Original Idea looks to be close to 2.75" I'll have to start scrounging the shop to see what I can find, But that was kind of the purpose for wanting to create the insert, to keep it round so it will seal properly, I know I will have do a thicker buildup on the cut away part to do that and I thought that would be the easiest way to keep the form correct. I just didnt plan on taking it back out afterwards.

BUT.....your arguments are persuasive. I'll start playing around with it more when I get home and see what happens.

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Posted By: Sephmu
Date Posted: May-11-2010 at 3:04pm
Chris,

I did almost the same exact repair on my Sport over the winter, but on the FB downpipes from riser to hose.

One end had been crushed from overtightening just the same as yours. When I prepped I only removed the bad material exactly as you've done. In the end, it turned out to be a PITA to match the funky shape and didn't turn out quite as uniformly as I would have liked.

Would have been much less headache to simply cut it back down to square and build it back. Don't get me wrong, the repair works great and is covered by new hose, but it took more time in the end to get it right with the "partial" prep, andddd, i know that ugly repair is lurking under there!! I'll put it on the list for next year....


Posted By: Chris4x4gill2
Date Posted: May-11-2010 at 4:52pm
Thanks for the input, guess I'll start looking ofr soemthing to use as a form when I get home.

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-11-2010 at 5:01pm
Chris,
Cut up a "tin" can (or any light gauge sheet metal) and roll it to the diameter needed. Bolt or screw the lapped seam then when you want to remove it, unscrew and roll it in on itself.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Chris4x4gill2
Date Posted: May-13-2010 at 10:54am
I cut the inlet down to about 1/2" from the main body of the muffler. I then took a coke can, cut the bottom out and split the side. I left the top intact to help it hold its shape better. Took resin and "kitty hair" and made a a paste to fill in the gap and then started wrapping with fiberglass cloth.

Once I got a few wraps on, I let it cure for about 2 hours. It had started to set so I pulled the can out and then let it sit for a few more hours to harden. Then went back and added more glass till I got to my thinckness. I think I might have gotten a little too thick, but htat ok since its slightly tapered. I expect the hose to go back on fairly well. I'll let it cur eall day today and then I'll cut it off at the right height and see what else needs to be touched up. Hopefully I'll be running this weekend.

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