Engine Temp
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17612
Printed Date: November-22-2024 at 4:07pm
Topic: Engine Temp
Posted By: mdvalant
Subject: Engine Temp
Date Posted: May-18-2010 at 1:40pm
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Hey gang, me again...
Another question about my buddy's '91 196. Used it all weekend for pulling the ski team around and it ran perfectly. One thing we have noticed is that it runs at a rather high temperature which is right around 175-180. Running in it the driveway with the fake-a-lake it pumps water through the motor very well, as it flows out the exhaust very nicely. (kind of ruling out the impeller, and if I'm not mistaken the impeller was replaced less than 100 hrs ago.) What are things we need to look at? Is this even a problem? Thermostat? Thanks!! -Mike ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5009 - '90 Ski (sold) http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5479 - '00 Sport Mississippi River - Bellevue, IA |
Replies:
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: May-18-2010 at 2:08pm
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Some impellars run 20 hours, some 200.
First check the tranny heat exchanger for debris. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-18-2010 at 2:34pm
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His tranny heat exchanger is behind the impeller. What t-stat is in there? ------------- |
Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: May-18-2010 at 2:35pm
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Hell if I know, HW. This is why I'm here! haha I can check it out sometime though...
On that note...my dad's 90 runs around 140, has all its life. Is that cold? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5009 - '90 Ski (sold) http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5479 - '00 Sport Mississippi River - Bellevue, IA |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-18-2010 at 2:38pm
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Get the facks first. Clean the connections on the sender and gauge. I changed our first impeller after 500 hrs when the temp would hang at 180, with a 143 thermostat. ------------- |
Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: May-18-2010 at 2:45pm
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Ok, I will look into it. Thank you sir! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5009 - '90 Ski (sold) http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5479 - '00 Sport Mississippi River - Bellevue, IA |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: May-18-2010 at 8:15pm
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did he replaced the t-stat lately? a 160º stat will run in that t...
I had the same issues on mine...replaced it with the correct 143 and t dropped drastically to the normal 140-160 band... also I would check all hoses clamp are tight, use the wrench to adjust them... ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: May-19-2010 at 11:29am
If you are running it on the fake-a-lake, the hose pressure could be pushing the water through the engine and the pump could be doing nothing. Put your intake hose into a bucket and see if the pump is really pumping. ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
mdvalant wrote:Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: May-19-2010 at 2:02pm
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Out of pure curiosity... is there a way to test a t-stat out of the boat? Maybe place it in a pot on the stove?
------------- |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: May-19-2010 at 2:04pm
Exactly. Hard to believe because you would think water pressure would have something to do with it too, but I have seen doing the pot test referred to a number of times on here. ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-20-2010 at 2:42am
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I'm having the same issue with mine, 240hp RH rotation. As the boat warms up, it gets up to 180-200 range and stays there. The exhause manifolds get warm but not "hot", I can hold my hand there for a while.
This is in the water, I haven't tried running it on a hose. I'm not sure of the best way to do that and didn't want to damage anything. I already changed the t-stat to a new 143 degree one. It was probably not a bad idea, and cheap insurance for $10, because the old one looked kinda rusty and stuff. It didn't actually change anything though. So, is electrical connection check the logical next to do, or impeller change? Not sure when that was done last, just got the boat. |
Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: May-20-2010 at 3:21am
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The impellor is a great place to start. I would want to know its condition regardless, but especially if running warm. It might be in pieces all through your engine. ------------- For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats. 1987 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: May-20-2010 at 12:31pm
do you run without a sea strainer or does it have one? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: May-20-2010 at 12:44pm
http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b24/lhine763/?action=view¤t=bucketmethod.flv - hose-bucket method ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-20-2010 at 12:48pm
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You can burn up an impeller in like 10 seconds, doesn't care if it had 0 hours or 500 if you like to run it dry. I'm pretty sure I've seen someone online do it once on purpose, it melted faster than I thought it would. ------------- |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: May-20-2010 at 1:23pm
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Your temp guage and sender could be incompatible. I was shipped the wrong sender with a new guage last year, and it read quite high. My laser temp gun read the accurate temp, so I knew I did not have an actual problem with engine temp.
An 89 should have a strainer in it. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: May-20-2010 at 6:49pm
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If you look at the thermostat housing when the tstat is closed cold water goes out the e
exhaust. As it opens the motor begins to mix cold water coming to the engine with warm water coming out and then sends it out the exhaust. Either way the elbow on the exhaust manifolds are getting cooler water than what's in the engine. The only way I see the touch test being any good is to tell you if there is no water getting to the exhaust. Digital thermometer and a bucket are the way to go, and don't use automotive thermostats even if they are rated the same temp,I learned that lesson last year. |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: May-20-2010 at 8:00pm
Sure to be a hit as a new Topic Section....... What Not To Do......Perfectly good ideas that do not work.... Nahhhhhh, that would be to easy, never mind..........Boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: May-20-2010 at 8:55pm
| It did work, but the boat running a steady 190 or so leaves little time for watching anything but the temp guage. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-21-2010 at 12:19pm
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Well, I got my T-Stat from Ski Dim, so it's definitely a marine unit. It actually looked considerably beefier than the one that had been in there. But yeah, I have no idea what kind of shape the impeller is in. Is that a relatively straight forward job, any special tools?
I'll look around for documentation on how that's done, unless someone has it handy? Oh, and mine does have a strainer. I checked it and cleaned it already, there was minimal debris. Mine had enough clearance to just unscrew the glass/plastic "jar" piece without undoing the hoses and everything. |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: May-21-2010 at 12:49pm
yea because you bought a 180 T-stat which is speced for a typical car application, you can get them in 190 and 195 too and on and on, but that isn't what is needed for a boat engine, in this case 143 is applicable temp rating, letting the engine run at around 160, now if you have a closed cooling then 160 t-stat is used and it runs around 180 all of the time. So when apples to aples are compared there isn't a marine grade t-stat just a different temperature rated t-stat so you have to be smarter and buy the correct parts enstead of walking in and saying I need a t-stat.  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: May-21-2010 at 1:13pm
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Impeler is easy, just make sure you mark the flow direction first because some of them can be installed bacerds.
The thermostat was an exact copy of the 160 it was replacing. What was different, and I had to put both in a pan to find this out, was that the auto one opened slowly while the marine on opened all the way at 160. It was the slow opening that was causing the problem in the boat, ina vehilcle that is running 200+ that wouldn't have been an issue. It might even be an an alright thermostat to use in the winter here so the heater works a little better, but too much of a PITA to have to change it all the time. The boat runs between 160 and 170 in water that is 80 to 85 in the summer and 150 to 160 in 45 to 50 degree water in the winter. We rarely see 3000 rpm's so it stays fairly cool most of the time. |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: May-21-2010 at 1:19pm
the t-stat controls the temp not the engine, it opened slow because it was bad or of a higher rated temp. Or then it just could have been the way it was in the pan and the thermal transfer properties envolved, like how the T-stat was sitting in the pan.  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: May-21-2010 at 1:37pm
| Almost forgot, last night while I was working down at the dock one of the weekend neighbors showed up. He uncovers his low hour 06 Mastercraft which I don't believe has even touched the water this year and fires it up 3 feet above the water. Then he lowers it down to about 6in above the water and starts it again and lowers it into the water running. As he drove by the dock I mentioned he should keep an eye on the temp guage because the impeller won't last long running it out of the water. He kind of ignores me and drives off, comes back about 5 minutes later, parks the boat opens the hatch and starts making phone calls. Wish I was a little closer so I could have heard what he was saying. |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: May-21-2010 at 1:55pm
Those guys there you feel sorrry for, but guys that start a boat with out any water running through it is just astronomical to the motor and impellar. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: May-21-2010 at 1:57pm
| I'm not sure what it was, but I had the same issue with 2 different thermostats I got at Napa. First one looked different so the second time I made sure I got one that looked the same. Might just be some of that special Chinese engenieering or something. |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: May-21-2010 at 2:18pm
no just the guy buying the T-stat that doesn't pay attention to details and doesn't install the correct temperature rated t-stat, 143 degrees is the correct rating not 160 BTW, So with your higher rated t-stat it's going to run hotter and in the range you quote a 160 stat runs at 180 and above. So when the Proper rated T-stat is used the engine stays at the correct temp and doesn't run hot like yours does if it's running 180 plus. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: May-21-2010 at 3:01pm
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Not the wrong tstat, it's the one I wanted and the one I bought been using 160 for the last 600 hrs or so. I like the boat a little warmer because we run with a lite load at slower speeds. If we spent the day footing or wakeboarding with some ballast then it might run in the range it does now with a 143. Yes I can run it up in the mid 40's and get the temp up above 180, but really not that big of a deal as long as I know everything is cooling properly it's still running cooler than the truck that brought it to the lake.
As for the neighbors with more money than sense, I'm glad they are there because without them I couldn't live at the lake full time, they are entertaining. I'm also glad they are only around on the weekends during the summer. That leaves me a lot of time to have the lake almost to myself and my aparentlly overheated boat. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-21-2010 at 4:12pm
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Impeller Replacement:
In the image here: http://www.aquaskier.com/articles/impeller_rotation.gif - Impeller Pic From this article: http://www.aquaskier.com/articles/impeller_replacement.htm - http://www.aquaskier.com/articles/impeller_replacement.htm It suggests that you should sort of "comb" the blades of the new impeller so they look the same as the ones from the old impeller. Or maybe you just accomplish the same thing by flipping it, depending on how stiff the rubber is. My question is this, if the impeller is burnt up, or pretty well worn down, will you be able to tell which way the blades are supposed to be "combed"? |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: May-21-2010 at 4:22pm
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With or without the old impeller, you should be able to figure out how to comb it at installtion. If you took your pump off, hold it sort of where it goes in the boat. You have a left hand rotation motor, so envision, with your pump in place, which way it will rotate. Form the blades in the proper direction as you push the impeller in.
Question to anyone else: Does it really matter which way the blades are "combed" upon installation? Won't they just flip to the rcorrect orientation when you turn the pulley, either by hand or when back on the motor? I just replaced mine a few weeks ago and that seemed to be the case. ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-21-2010 at 4:22pm
Brian, Just look at the direction of rotation of the pulleys/belts and you'll see which way the blades are "combed". Now, if you don't get them correct, they will flip. Even Depco pump in their impeller replacement instructions states this. However, I can't imagine it does the rubber much good!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: May-21-2010 at 4:28pm
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well while watching the pulley might help, you need to pay attention to the set screw on the side of the pump and make sure it's facing the same direction before and after the RWP is removed from the bracket, otherwise the pump can be put on backwards and the pulley will still rotate in the same direction. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: May-21-2010 at 4:32pm
| They will flip, I did it once, and yes for those wondering it was on purpose. I'm with Pete though, it can't be good for the blade to do that. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-21-2010 at 9:31pm
Chris, We were discussing which way the blades go (combing) and not a backwards housing install. Yes, it's important too but hasn't come up - yet!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-22-2010 at 12:34am
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I'll keep an eye on the installation of the pump.
So, from Hollywood's earlier post, a bad impeller could cause it to run hot (180) but not totally overheat? Does the circulation pump pull some water without help from the raw water pump? |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: May-22-2010 at 12:58am
Man that hot to me.. I run between 150 to 155.. Thats normal temp, isn't it? ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: May-22-2010 at 1:51am
Agreed, that is too hot. 150-155 is fine. The 143 in the Mustang fluctuates up and down as the stat opens and closes. My 502 holds at 160* no matter what. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-22-2010 at 2:13am
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I was poking around on ski discount marine and noticed that they advertise an https://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=JAB50070-0040 - impeller removal tool .
Is this necessary when replacing impellers? Also, it looks like the gasket is a separate item. Is this typical? |
Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: May-22-2010 at 3:30am
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I pull mine every fall just to let the paddles relax for the winter. It comes off easy, never needed a tool or felt I was forcing it. Maybe on a boat that sat for years in a barn. ------------- For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats. 1987 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: May-22-2010 at 3:47pm
| I think the tools migt be useful on the Vdrives where your working blind and don't have room to pry it out with something like a screwdriver, not needed for a DD. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-24-2010 at 2:26pm
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Thanks, I won't bother with the puller tool then, sounds like unnecessary money to spend.
I can borrow one of those hand held, laser temperature readers from a friend of mine this weekend... or just buy one. I was thinking I'd check around the engine to see if it's just my gauge that's off. What spots on the engine do I want to check to get my actual engine temperature? Is the thermostat housing the accurate spot, or other places along the cooling system, block, manifolds etc.? |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: May-24-2010 at 2:45pm
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I would just run the gun everywhere.
Stat housing will heat up when it opens. Otherwise it has cool bypass water from the waterpump blowing past it. Intake manifold is where you can verify your temp gauge is accurate. Exhaust is always good to check, too. You should be able to leave your hands on your exhaust manifolds when the engine is running. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-24-2010 at 2:56pm
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Thanks for the tip.
I'm pretty the exhaust manifold temperature is good. I can leave my hands on the exhaust manifolds for a good 30-40 seconds anyway, with the engine fully warmed up and running. I'm not sure if I could keep them there indefinitely, but they're definitely not hot to the touch, just pretty warm. I'll check the intake manifold temp with the gun this weekend, and everywhere else too. |
Posted By: Tag962
Date Posted: May-26-2010 at 11:46am
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After reading this post I am a little worried about my 1990 196. Can someone tell me where the impeller is located so I can check it? I believe it is in the housing on the corner of the engine closest to the driver seat??? I am not a mechanic by any means, I hate to sound dumb but all of this talk is over my head! I just finished putting a new floor in my boat last night, what a nightmare!!! I would like to check the impeller before I go out in it tonight. It will be the first run of the season for me so I am very excited! Living in upstate NY & loving the water, makes for very looooong winters! Thanks! ------------- Greg |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: May-26-2010 at 12:35pm
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30-40 seconds is good. If you cannot touch them at all, you have problems.
Tag, follow your thru hull water intake hose. It goes through the trans cooler to the impeller pump, then to the circ pump. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-27-2010 at 1:31am
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Hi Tag,
You're right on the location. The impeller is inside the raw water pump, which almost looks like the equivalent of a mini power steering pump on a car. You can probably take your test drive without worrying. If you're temp guage reads normal, you're good for a bit. The impellers are a normal maintenance item though. I haven't done mine yet, so I'm talking from more what I've read than what I've done. I found a good article hear though, I posted it earlier too: http://www.aquaskier.com/articles/impeller_replacement.htm - http://www.aquaskier.com/articles/impeller_replacement.htm My friend had done a similar job on a Mercruiser stern drive, and gave me the tip of using a large radiator hose clamp, to sort of tighten down/squish the new impeller to fit it into the housing. That's all I know for now, hope to report back soon with a real, first hand facts. I'm guessing if you replaced your floor though, an impeller should be no sweat for you. I think it rates much lower on the Do It Yourself Capability rating scale. |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: May-27-2010 at 3:42pm
you guys act like it's a major hassle to get the vane in the pump, all you have to do is dip one side in then rotate it as your pushing it to the center and then down, jacking with hose clamp or anything else is just a waiste of time and you'l end up screwing things up. The vanes are flexable come on, get some hand and arm strength and be a man or find some one that is not a wussy to do the job for you.  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-27-2010 at 3:49pm
Even I can do it!!! Hose clamp??? Next thing you know someone will get out a small ring compressor! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Hawktique
Date Posted: May-27-2010 at 4:19pm
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I have to agree, just stick it in!!! Pretty simple. ------------- "A Veteran is someone who at one point in his life, wrote a blank check made payable to: 'The United States of America,' for an amount of 'up to, and including his life." Semper Fi |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-27-2010 at 4:47pm
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Squeezing it in my hand works just fine for me. ------------- |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: May-27-2010 at 4:51pm
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: May-27-2010 at 5:59pm
LOL I think that works for most people. ------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-27-2010 at 6:41pm
Yep, looks just like this.  ------------- |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-28-2010 at 12:30pm
Alright, alright, I get yeah 
My friend who suggested the hose clamp runs Mercruisers. Maybe Mercruiser impellers are stiffer? Or, maybe guys who run Mercruisers are wussies? Well, that's what I'll tell my friend
|
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-02-2010 at 4:22pm
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My brother and I used a hand held laser temp gun and went all over the engine while it was warmed up and running. The warmest place we could find anywhere was 125 degrees; that was one of the hoses coming out of the circulation pump. Well, the exhaust manifold flanges were hotter, but the rest of the exhaust manifolds were fine.
I'm leaning towards a general ground issue on mine. There are other gauges acting funny, like the fuel gauge. Also, using the horn or lights makes things act funny. Also, turning on the ignition (not cranking just turning it on) takes a little gusto away from the blower motor. I was happy to find the motor was not running hot anyway, I'll have to sort out the ground issue though. |
Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: June-02-2010 at 6:06pm
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I'd like to know at what temperature these marine mufflers would start to burn up. I think there may be a lot of unecessary worrying about the engine temp. Think about regular car temps...regularly going over the 200° mark. ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-03-2010 at 11:06am
Craig, I always use the analogy of a stretch limo with the AC on full blast out in the sun in the desert of say Nevada. Hot yes! Problem no! I doubt the exhaust/mufflers see anything over 175 degrees after all the cooling water is mixed in. That's well within the limit of the glass muffler(s). They only go when there's no water. Of course we know no water is what kills the RWP impellers too! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: June-07-2010 at 12:28pm
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^^^ Exactly what I'm thinking Pete.
I keep an eye on the temp gauge, especially after first start up of the day, and I'll watch to make sure 1 of the pipes isn't spewing out a ton of steam, but you won't find me using the risers as handwarmers. ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 3:54am
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I did the impeller last weekend. It was pretty easy. I did it with the boat still in the water. I got the kit that included the gaskets and stuff. I wound up using Babe's Boot butter to lube it up. It would have popped right in pretty easily anyway.
The old one wasn't bad, but it had enough little spider cracks in the rubber vanes that I didn't feel like replacing it was a waste of time/money. |