Trailer Help - Bunk Board Replacement
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17623
Printed Date: November-20-2024 at 12:41pm
Topic: Trailer Help - Bunk Board Replacement
Posted By: tnplicky
Subject: Trailer Help - Bunk Board Replacement
Date Posted: May-19-2010 at 1:08am
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I am in the process of replacing the bunk boards on my trailer ('95 SN).
I got 14' treated 2" x 4" 's, riped them down to 2-3/4" width and put a slight bevel on them like the original ones. I also put 1/2" relief cuts every 6" on the front 5' of the boards to help the boards bend as they follow the curve of the trailer. This may have caused my problem. As I was bolting them on and I got to the portion where they needed to bend, I got a ratchet tie down strap to winch the board over and hold it in position. As I winch the board over to align the next bolt, the new bunk board cracked. The final 5' or so needs to bend in approx. 9-1/2". So I have 3 questions for those of you who have replaced your bunk boards: 1) were you able to bend your bunk boards and how did you do it successfully? 2) did you put relief cuts in, or not? again I thought this would help, but I fear this caused a weak spot allowing the board to crack. 3) should I just miter the boards instead of trying to curve them? does anyone see problem with this? 
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Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-19-2010 at 8:46am
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No relief cuts. They will bend.
There are several threads here with pictures if you don't believe me and want to do a search!!  One thing that may help is to get some #2 treated. It's not kiln dried like #1 is so it's still wet. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: tnplicky
Date Posted: May-19-2010 at 11:01am
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Pete, thanks for the info. Hopefully tonight I can get 2 new treated 2x4's and try again, this time without relief cuts.
My back-up plan, if that doesn't work, will be to re-use the curved portion of the original bunk boards. The wood is in OK condidtion, I was just wanting to avoid having to remove the hundreds of old, rusty staples. |
Posted By: MartyMabe
Date Posted: May-19-2010 at 11:17am
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Tim, I know it's frustrating working alone, but get a couple friends over to help,and start at the front.Make sure you got it all lined up,then start bolting from the front back.Leave 1st bolt a tad loose so it can pivot.Much easier trying to bend with 14' of board than last 5 or 6'.
Just take your time and you'll get her done ------------- 66 Skylark http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5041" rel="nofollow - 93 SN If you're not living in NC, you're just camping out! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-19-2010 at 11:19am
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Tim,
A couple of tricks we've learned and have been mentioned are worth mentioning again. Don't use carriage bolts to hold the wood to the trailer frame. The small square under the head never holds very well in wood that goes through wet/dry cycles. Counterbore the top side of the wood for a hex head bolt with a washer under it. You'll be able to tighten them better plus if you ever have to remove the bolts, you would be out there sawing them off!! Then on the bottom use ether a nyloc or double nut. I've seen bolts loosen up even with lock washers under the nuts due to this wet/dry cycle causing the wood to shrink/swell. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: MartyMabe
Date Posted: May-19-2010 at 11:29am
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Pete ,ours are a closed channel(box type).
We have to use lag bolts. Finally, we taught Mr.PeteB something
------------- 66 Skylark http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5041" rel="nofollow - 93 SN If you're not living in NC, you're just camping out! |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: May-19-2010 at 12:32pm
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That's weird! At the lumber yards around here, there is usually, at least 5 or 6 "Pre-Fit's" on top of the 14ft pile.
Then the guy loading the truck, says "You want those???" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-19-2010 at 12:41pm
Marty! A lag bolt up from the bottom through the box channel and into the wood? That doesn't give you very much of the threaded section of lag into the wood!! How about a long bolt down from the top through the box channel with the nut on the bottom? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
MartyMabe wrote:Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: May-19-2010 at 1:18pm
Pete, These old Ramlins are horrible. The wall thickness is very light and they just used a self tapper into the top of the tube. Every darn one of them rust like crazy too at the bunk screws. I'm sure Tim is doing some scraping and rust prevention while it's apart. ------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: May-19-2010 at 1:46pm
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[QUOTE=DrCC] That's weird! At the lumber yards around here, there is usually, at least 5 or 6 "Pre-Fit's" on top of the 14ft pile.[QUOTE]
Only 5-6? 
------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-19-2010 at 1:47pm
Self tappers from the top!! Poor Timmy!! It's good that I've never had to rebunk one and hopefully never will need to. I'd be welding plates on the bottom side of the box tubing!! The inside of the tubing has got to be a nightmare.------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: May-19-2010 at 2:47pm
This is NOT Tim's trailer but a good example of what happens to them and where they go bad.
 ------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails |
Posted By: MartyMabe
Date Posted: May-19-2010 at 4:44pm
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No Mr. Pete, as you see it that pic above,
you countersink a hole in the top of the bunk, then down through the bunk, then into the channel(trailer). Yeah I had to go with new holes on some of mine. ------------- 66 Skylark http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5041" rel="nofollow - 93 SN If you're not living in NC, you're just camping out! |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: May-19-2010 at 7:21pm
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Another thing that does help.
If you prefer paying for straight 2 bys. Put the "crown" towards the outside. And two furniture clamps or pipe style clamps to pull both together at the front at the same time. AT |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: May-19-2010 at 11:07pm
When I rebuilt my CC trailer I replaced the side channels with galv. RHS (4" X 2" Box tubing). I welded some plate on both sides of the RHS and bolted horizontally through the bunk. It was then really easy to lay the timber down the side rail as the these plates formed the new bunk timber to the new RHS rails.
 ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: tnplicky
Date Posted: May-20-2010 at 2:03am
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Alan - that may as well be a picture of my trailer 'cause that is what it looked like. It was very badly rusted, especialy up front where the trailer wiring exited the box channel on the bottom side.
I didn't do the work myself, as I don't have the equipment or the experience, but I had a local welder replace the main rails. Trailer was then sandblasted and repainted. I also had them put diamond plate on. I am now putting the bunks back on. So, I cut new boards tonight. I did NOT put relief cuts in this time. I am using 1/4"-14 x 2" stainless self tapping hex head screws w/ stainless washers and counter boring the bunk boards and bolting down from the top like the original. (I am drilling healthy size pilot holes in the steel box channel rail) I actually started at the back and am working towards the front. I am working by myself using ratchet tie down straps to coax the boards along the curve. I have the new boards (2nd set) on and bent just about all the way. I decided to let them sit overnight to stretch and relax a bit before taking them the rest of the way. Hopefully tomorrow I can finish bending them and get them bolted down completely. Then onto carpeting them and loading the boat back on. Oh yeah, I have some wiring to do for the lights, but hopefully that is not a big deal. I will post some pic's when done. Thanks for the input everyone! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-20-2010 at 9:21am
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Tim, Sounds like a good plan with the bunk bolting. I'm glad to hear you replaced the box tubing.
When you get to the trailer wiring, the one thing that is always a problem on any trailer is the ground. I always run a ground wire to each light and not rely on the trailer frame. Connections are important too. Soldering any splices (even crimp on) and then using adhesive lined heat shrink tubing over them will provide you with a better wiring job. Don't use those damn insulation displacement T taps. They are the ones (come with the trailer light kits) that you squeeze with pliers and the blade cuts through the insulation and makes contact with the wires. Marty, You've got "part-time ADD syndrome" like I do!! You must have missed my post acknowledging the bunk fastening method after Allen explained it!! My mentioning welding the plate to the bottom of the thin walled box tube would have been my idea of reinforcement for bolts from the top.------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: May-20-2010 at 4:27pm
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Can't wait to see the finished product Tim, I'm sure it will look awesome. Hopefully we'll see you and your gang in Clinton mid June?
------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails |
Posted By: tnplicky
Date Posted: May-26-2010 at 1:16am
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Posted By: tnplicky
Date Posted: May-26-2010 at 1:20am
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finished trailer up and re-loaded boat over the weekend. glad that is done, now I got to get it in the water!
was going to go tonight but thunderstorms in the area changed my mind Alan - will keep Clinton in mind. not sure of plans yet. |
Posted By: MartyMabe
Date Posted: May-26-2010 at 2:25am
Great Job  I see you put the diamond plate on too! You got any pads for those poles ? Leave the pvc pipe on then put the pads over them. That way when your loading and rub the pads they spin.
Get some LED's for that trailer too!Got all mine on e-bay. ------------- 66 Skylark http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5041" rel="nofollow - 93 SN If you're not living in NC, you're just camping out! |
Posted By: saffer
Date Posted: September-17-2010 at 6:47pm
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hi guys.
I have been busy with a bit of trailer repair too, but I don;t have a winch or lift to get the boat off. Can you please remind me how to get the boat off the trailer in a car port using an alternate method (and i have tried several searches of the forums) thank you. ps- using the wire brush on grinder with POR 15 method. ------------- If you can't be rich, you gotta be clever!  Wonder if I'm either right now.
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3030&sort=&pagenum=8&yrstart=1988&yrend=1988 - My 88 2001 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3030&sort=&pagenum=8&yrstart=1988&yrend=1988 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-17-2010 at 7:36pm
I found it in http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15470&KW=bottle+jack&PID=179863&title=trailer-paint-lights#179863 - this thread ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: tnplicky
Date Posted: September-17-2010 at 10:12pm
| I used the "brut force" method of jacking up the boat and trailer (using the jack from my truck) on alternate sides and using cinder blocks, 2"x6"'s, and foam board insulation to block up the boat. It takes numerous repeated cycles of doing this as the trailer can only be moved forward approx. 12" at a time due to all of the cross members on the trailer. It is a process I hope NOT to have to repeat any time soon, but it can be done if you have a lot of patience and use caution. One of the pictures I posted above shows my boat up on blocks in my garage. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: September-18-2010 at 2:24pm
Another tip that may help is to start in the front and use the leverage of the length to help bend the board. Start with the board sticking out the side of the trailer(lined up with the front of the rail)then continue to pull the rear in as you screw it down. A ratchet strap or come-along around the end and attached to the opposite rail will help hold it when you get it in place.. |
Posted By: Sephmu
Date Posted: September-18-2010 at 4:29pm
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Looks great! I was hoping to do the diamond plate for my steps on my ram-lin this summer...just wasn't in the budget at the moment, so I opted for treated wood sans carpet.
At least I know how good mine could have looked!!! Nice work 
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Posted By: gcarbone
Date Posted: September-21-2010 at 3:17pm
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I agree, that diamond plate is nice. I want to do the same next year.
Tim, did you do those yourself? ------------- 96 SN |
Posted By: tnplicky
Date Posted: September-21-2010 at 10:21pm
| No, I didn't do all the work myself. I found a local welder ( http://www.aadcustomboats.com/ - AAD Custom Boats and Welding ) that actually specializes in making aluminum flat bottom fishing boats, as well as their own trailers. They cut out and replaced the main rails which were badly rusted, had it sandblasted and painted and put on the diamond plate per my request. The rest of the trailer is original. I re-did the wiring, bunk boards, and carpeting myself. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-21-2010 at 11:06pm
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If your handy with the hand held electric "skilsaw", the diamond plate is easy. Carbide tipped blade (the cheap throw aways), a straight edge and put your safety glasses on. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Brady
Date Posted: September-22-2010 at 9:35am
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and your ear plugs!! ------------- Charlie Three Lakes, Wisconsin 69 Barracuda |
Posted By: gcarbone
Date Posted: September-22-2010 at 12:36pm
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Those guys did a nice job it looks like. I hope mine comes out as nice as that! ------------- 96 SN |