Steering cable adjustment
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17670
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 12:41pm
Topic: Steering cable adjustment
Posted By: srbranum
Subject: Steering cable adjustment
Date Posted: May-22-2010 at 4:45pm
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Man do I need some help(because mine is out of town this weekend)
I can't seem to figure out how to calibrate of set the steering cable in my boat(1975 Skiier). Here is a picture of underneath the dash and the rudder area. I really need some help in order to make it to Georgia next weekend. Can anybody throw me a bone. Thanks. Scott 
 ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-22-2010 at 5:51pm
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Scott,
Attach the cable to the helm but leave it off the tiller arm. Set the wheel to the neutral position by counting turns lock to lock and divide it in 2. Set the rudder in the neutral position. Attach the cable to the tiller. Tighten the cable tube block on the stringer in that position. Now, the rudder will be centered along with the wheel. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: May-22-2010 at 5:54pm
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Dr. Pete,
Again, you are the man. I am going outside and work on yours and eric's replies and let you know what happens. If I can get past these issues, I think I have her wipped. scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: May-22-2010 at 6:08pm
Pete, What are you calling the tiller are? Can you describe it? Sorry scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
8122pbrainard wrote:Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: May-22-2010 at 6:17pm
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The arm is the bar that comes off the rudder that the cable attaches to. You need a new tube on the helm. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: May-22-2010 at 6:36pm
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Is there supposed to be a tube coming off that plastic nut shown in the picture? Where to I get one if that's the case? ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: May-22-2010 at 6:43pm
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Here
http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=6300675 - http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=6300675 ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: May-22-2010 at 7:02pm
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I wonder what happened to the old one? Never saw it in the boat.
Thanks, scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-22-2010 at 7:33pm
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Scott,
It will work without the new tube on the helm. The cover keeps the dirt out/off the free end of the cable. Get the new cover on there pretty soon. You may also want to do some cleaning/greasing up there. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: May-22-2010 at 7:45pm
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I think I got it.
Re: The missing tube. That would explain why the cable curls up in to the wiring and getting grease all over it. Also, Does 3 3/4 turns divided by 2 sound about right? The back of the cable is almost if not touching the rear of the boat. Can I adjust it out any away from the stern? ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: May-22-2010 at 7:49pm
This is what I did btw, correct or not: I disconnected the cable from that white, ceramic looking bracket running off the primary stringer in the back. Turned the steering wheel lock to lock and divided it by two. Reattached the cable to the ceramic bracket. Tightened the cable nut underneath the dash. Scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-22-2010 at 10:14pm
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Sounds good Scott! Georgia next weekend just ahead!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: May-23-2010 at 12:48am
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Pete,
I hope I get to go. The last few things I have to do are: Put carpet in Install the seats Install the engine cover. Install the battery box and cover Tighten every nut and bolt Epoxy the depth sounder transducer Hook up the hoses and fuel line Install the rear floor and access plate Try and clear off old wood flour/resin stuff  I was stupid
However, 
I am still stumped on this bilge pump deal. I have attempted everything ya'll said and was resolved to just bypass the float switch until I could figure it out. Now, I can't even get the bilge switch to come on. There are three wires that come off the bilge switch behind the dash: 1. One on the positive side leading to the bilge pump area 2. One on the negitive side also leading to the bilge pump area and 3. One on the positive side leading to the fuse link directly above 1 and 2 above. The question I have about the above information is...where does the bilgepump switch get its power? Further, before I started the rebuild project, I cut four wires that had to do with the float switch and bilge pump and wrote down where they went. Two from the float switch and two from the bilge pump. BUT......those four wires lead to only three from the dash area and they were connected to: a. One side of the bilge pump switch b. The other side of the bilge pump switch and c. The middle lower post of the AMP meter. This is kind of wordy but I thought you could use your infinite knowledge and figure me out a battle plan, I hope. I can't put it in the water here or anywhere without this matter resolved. Scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |