3" Exhaust Hose Not Bending
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17691
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 12:44pm
Topic: 3" Exhaust Hose Not Bending
Posted By: srbranum
Subject: 3" Exhaust Hose Not Bending
Date Posted: May-23-2010 at 8:31pm
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Well, I have had trouble with everything else in my stringer rebuild, I don't see why the exhaust system should be any different.
I was going to put the exhaust hoses and straight pipe back in the boat and then install the floor. Well, the short 3" wire reinforced exhaust hose will not bend down at the right angle I need in the short distance it has before it attaches to the metal straight pipe. If it were at the right angle, I could attach all the hoses and clamps and everything would lay virtualy flat in the trough underneath the floor like before the rebuild but it aint happening now. I don't know why it is not working now because it worked before I started the rebuild but that's the way everything has been lately. I am thinking about getting up early in the morning and driving 35 miles to a large marina with all my measurements and see what I can do. I don't really have a choice. I can assure you I am at maximum frustration and starting to envy anyone who has a woring boat.  
Again, any advice out there for poor pittiful me? scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Replies:
Posted By: 79TiqueRebuild
Date Posted: May-24-2010 at 1:32am
| Scott Is it the corrugated hose? Someone suggested to let it get good and warm, let it sit in sun and using rope to form and hold the bend. Hang in there you are almost done! Monty |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: May-24-2010 at 1:40am
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It's that wire reinforced black $15-$20/ft. stuff 3" in diameter.
Thanks for the motivation. I am going to whip that thing in to submission this week  ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: May-24-2010 at 1:52am
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Scott, First of all, with exhaust hoses, It's "Mind-Set".
You have to convince yourself that you are Two Separate Gorillas. If you bought the smooth hardwall hose, you'll never get them on. Assuming you have the corrigated type. You may have to disconnect the shaft coupler, loosen the motor mounts, jack up the back of the engine and lower onto the exhaust hose. AT |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: May-24-2010 at 10:42am
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DrCC,
I'm sorry I did not explain it better. I did not buy anything, yet. I simply can't get back on what I took off. The problem is when the male exhaust flange comes out of the back of the boat, the short piece of female hose goes over it. I have always had the spiral type heavy duty with a thick wire running through it in the 3" size. Anyway, the hose needs to come off the flange and bend downwards in order for it to lay flat in the trough connected to both ends of the straight metal exhaust pipe before going up to the engine connections which are not the problem. Bottom line is I need a slight bend in the back before the connection to the exhaust straight pipe. I am going to try something that was suggested in this thread today and see what happens. thanks, scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: May-24-2010 at 1:11pm
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Scott, That's normal! You don't make the bend. The rear floor section does.
With the rear floor section out, connect the hose to thru-hull flange and the copper tube. Wrap the tube where it would meet the rear edge of the floor section with some carpet. When you screw down the floor, that will pull the exhaust tubes down. AT Double clamp every connection below the waterline. |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: May-24-2010 at 1:20pm
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You must have had a video camera yesterday while I was doing the very same thing. I had everything connected and was standing on the copper tube/hose intersection near the gas tank and seeing if the floor would push it down. You are verifying your "Dr." name......
And yes, I have 8 clamps per side. Can I ask what the piece of carpet does? Seems like its just taking up more precious space between the bottom of the floor and the hull. Thanks. scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: May-24-2010 at 1:32pm
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It's a dual purpose kinda thing. Keeps from rubbing a hole in the tubes and keeps the tubes from rattling around making horrible noises.
AT |
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: May-24-2010 at 1:58pm
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I had to replace one of these 3" hoses off the manifold a couple years ago. It was a severe PITA to get the hose to bend the right way, and to get it to go onto the manifold. ------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: May-24-2010 at 2:13pm
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79Nautique described the method this way.
Have everything in place with the hoses sticking up out of the floor. Tie a rope around the hose and loop it through the rear lift ring. Use the rope to pull the hose back far enough so that as you let the tension off the rope you can guide it onto the manifold. Use soapy water to lube it too. It makes sense to me but I have not tried it yet. A few more weeks before i am there. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: May-24-2010 at 2:47pm
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think your miss quoting. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: May-24-2010 at 3:14pm
  ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: May-24-2010 at 3:24pm
Sorry Chris if it works you could have been the hero and if it fails we all know it was Doc- After looking forever I could not find the post describing the method and thought it was you. It was Doc and here is the original post Stringer Questions 73 Skier Posted: 16-February-2010 at 12:59pm Exhaust hose1/3 of the way up, on the exposed.Tie it back to the lift ring.All that's left to muscle, is the pushing down to line-up.Loosen the line to push on. Also any hose connections below the waterline. "Double Clamp" ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
79nautique wrote:Posted By: Okie Boarder
Date Posted: May-24-2010 at 9:05pm
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The shop that put my motor in gave me a couple suggestions that worked.
1. Bend the hose and shape it a little before you try to put it on. Also bending in half, attaching one end, then working the other in helps. 2. Use some form of lubrication. I actually used some of the binding lube for wakeboard an ski bindings. I bought new tube and it was the softwall type, not corrugated. My bend radius is pretty minor, but even with those suggestions it was a PITA to install those. By the way, what's the reasoning for double clamps below the water line? Failsafe? |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: May-25-2010 at 2:03am
This is also how I solved it on the Mustang. Total PITA. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: May-25-2010 at 11:47am
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Check out an idea I have:
I am going to get one of the load bars from my company(Fedex)we use to brace loads in the back of our rigs and bring it home with me. After I get all the pipes and hoses underneath the rear floor in place, I am going to place the load bar vertical with one end on the floor piece and the other end on the CEILING of my workshop directly underneath a rafter beam. Then, all I have to do is ratchet it down and the floor will be pushed down. Then all I have to do is screw it down with some large brass or stainless countersunk wood screws. You'all can now start throwing rocks at my idea but I think it may work. ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: May-25-2010 at 11:49am
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BTW, my problem is not at the exhaust end but the flange ends beneath the gas tank. ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: May-25-2010 at 12:19pm
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Lube up the hose and push it on with a twisting motion, it's not that hard, for the area your working on. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: May-25-2010 at 10:20pm
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I decided to go ahead and replace a piece that did not look all that great. I went to a local repair shop and he had a 20" piece of this 3" wire reinforced hose and he sold it to me for $20. I think it would have cost $15-$20/ft. plus shipping ordering it online.
I also got a piece of fuel hose that goes between the gas tank and the spout on the back of the boat. He gave me this piece for FREE!! Now I have all new fuel lines. ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: May-27-2010 at 8:08pm
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No need to discuss this topic anymore. They are in and now I just have to put the floor in.
Thanks for all your help, guys. Scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: May-28-2010 at 1:47am
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There you go. Just a little patience. BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |