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Source of water

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=18037
Printed Date: September-26-2024 at 8:15pm


Topic: Source of water
Posted By: merbesfield
Subject: Source of water
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 12:53am
I am getting water in the bilge. Before I leave the dock I pull the plug so no water. When the motor is running there is a tiny amount of water coming from port side elbow at the front of the manifold and a drip on one of the freeze plugs. You can see that the freeze plug has been dripping for a while as there is rust streaks. When I get back to dock after a ride there is a good three inches of water in the bilge. The bilge pump does not turn on when I flip the switch? It ran a few weeks ago and then all the sudden no sound came from it. So two questions, what to do about the leak and the bilge pump. Thanks, Mark



Replies:
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 2:56am
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17803&title=water-in-the-bildge - Link



I'd start by re-sealing EVERY piece of underwater hardware.


Posted By: Link
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 3:12pm
Originally posted by DrCC DrCC wrote:

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17803&title=water-in-the-bildge - Link



I'd start by re-sealing EVERY piece of underwater hardware.


DrCC,

Can you elaborate for those of us who have never re-sealed below the waterline?

-------------
1989 Sport Nautique


Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 3:50pm
Sure, It's pretty basic and simple.

Remove the hardware, clean off all the old sealant, re-place in the same direction that it was, with a generous coating of 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive Sealant. Clean up drips and mess with Mineral Spirits. Let it cure for at least 48 hours.


AT


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 4:22pm
Originally posted by DrCC DrCC wrote:

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17803&title=water-in-the-bildge - Link



I'd start by re-sealing EVERY piece of underwater hardware.


Maybe fixing the current known leaks would be a better starting point before you go and create more leaks resealing something that doesn't need to be resealed in the first place?

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 4:31pm
Can the freeze plug be sealed with the engine in the boat? Is this one of the items you are talking about sealing? Also, those plastic elbows look like they would be brittle as old as they are. Why did they not use Brass? Are there replacements available in Brass?


Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 4:33pm
You are talking to a newbie here. What do you mean by underwater hardware? Obviously it is underwater, but what parts/pieces to be exact. Thanks.


Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 4:53pm
Drain plug fitting
Water pick-up fitting
All 3 Fins
Strut
Rudder Log
Exhaust Flanges
Platform Brackets
Pitots

I don't believe a small manifold crack would produce 3 inches of water in the bilge in a short time.

I suspect leaking Exhaust Flanges and possibly Rudder Log.

Even a missing Pitot screw will sink a boat over night.


AT


Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 5:00pm
Run the boat without the Motor Box and rear center floor section.
Have someone else Drive while you watch for water.


AT

edit: Remove the rear panel also.


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 5:04pm
fix the known leaks correctly, yes they make brass fittings to replace the plastic ones. Secondly replace the packing material in both packing glands and adjust them correctly, the most likely source of water in the bilge BTW.

Leave the underwater gear alone your just asking for problems jacking with them until you know for a fact one of them is leaking, right now it's some ones hair brained idea it's the problem. All you have to do to check them is let it float in the water and look.


regarding the bilge it might need replaced or the fuse might be blown verify you have voltage at the pump and then go from there, if you have voltage then replace the pump, if no voltage look for a blown fuse, disconnected wire, bad switch.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 5:06pm
I do not see any water coming from the manifolds, only the elbow. does the rear floor section just lift out? I did not know it came up. So basically, remove rear seats, rear panel that covers the gas tank, rear floor and engine cover. drive it and look for leaks? also, how do you test a bilge pump? Mine quit working.


Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 5:12pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

fix the known leaks correctly, yes they make brass fittings to replace the plastic ones. Secondly replace the packing material in both packing glands and adjust them correctly, the most likely source of water in the bilge BTW.

Leave the underwater gear alone your just asking for problems jacking with them until you know for a fact one of them is leaking, right now it's some ones hair brained idea it's the problem. All you have to do to check them is let it float in the water and look.


regarding the bilge it might need replaced or the fuse might be blown verify you have voltage at the pump and then go from there, if you have voltage then replace the pump, if no voltage look for a blown fuse, disconnected wire, bad switch.


79nautique,

1. where do I get brass elbows to replace the plastic?

2. what are packing glands and where do i get packing gland materail?

3. bilge dash fuse is good. is there another fuse? worked fine for short while. pump does not look too old? i will test for current at pump.

go easy, like i said, i am learning. thanks for the help. Mark


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 5:18pm
Mark
About 2 its reffering on the rope packing or seal of the shaft log (hole were the drive shaft exits the hull) and the rudder port...



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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 5:30pm
Well, you need to really get the bilge pump working.    Maybe there is a short in the wiring (fuse possibly?), or maybe you actually need a new bilge pump.

As far as the other known 2 leaks, yes, fix those first, along with the bilge pump.

The manifold elbow should be readily available in brass. I have plastic ones on my 78, and mine are holding up perfectly, but if I were to replace them, it probably would be in brass as well. Check at a hardware store, otherwise any marine/ boat shop should have or be able to get them.
Mcmaster Carr always has everything you could need for fittings as well.

The freeze plug, is it in plain view? You might be able to stop the leak from that with some silicone, but ideally you should replace the plug.




-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 5:35pm
Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

The freeze plug, is it in plain view? You might be able to stop the leak from that with some silicone, but ideally you should replace the plug.

Tom,
You have got to be joking! So, just glop some silicone around the plug and the leak stops???

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 5:40pm
Yes the freeze plug is visible. It is on the side, can't remember which one and about the size of quarter to half dollar.


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 5:41pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

The freeze plug, is it in plain view? You might be able to stop the leak from that with some silicone, but ideally you should replace the plug.

Tom,
You have got to be joking! So, just glop some silicone around the plug at the leak stops???


yea a lot of hairbrained idea's out of this mind most of the time.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 6:04pm
I knew that would get a rise out of you two.

How predicatable. LOL

fwiw, I would simply replace the freeze plug.



-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 6:12pm
Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

I knew that would get a rise out of you two.

How predicatable. LOL

fwiw, I would simply replace the freeze plug.


Of course you got a "rise" out of us because we don't want bad advice being handed out in this forum. You don't understand that there are people here that would try this half a$$ed idea.

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 6:17pm
It's the old "marina " trick again.   

-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 6:36pm
Mark, if the in water test does not provide results you can fill the bilge with water from a hose while on the trailer and see where it leaks. I recently had a delamination problem that brought water from the shaft log to a weep hole in the stringer. I found the weephole side on the lake and the shaft log entrance on the trailer. Hope yours is an easier problem. Check the bilge pump for crud jambing up the impeller and then use electric meter to confirm power to pump before you replace it. Also be sure there are not wire connections shorting out when the bilge water level rises.

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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 9:03pm
I think that is what happened to the pump, it got full of water and then quit working. So maybe shorted out? Is there a temp fuse or is it fried? I never thought about filling the boat with water, that is a good idea. Boat is on a lift at boat dock but should be able to see the leak if full of water. Yes you have to watch what you say, there are plenty of jack leg mechanics who would actually try the silicon treatment. I have seen and read some crazy things that JB weld is used for. thanks for the help?


Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 9:48pm
I would not recommend filling the boat with water.
In David's case it did not take very much to show a leak.

In your case, If it's leaking where I suspect you would have water over the floor before any leak will show. Thus causing more problems.

Like '79   Concentrate on your engine leaks first. Then bilge pump.   Then underwater hardware.

AT


Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 11:32pm
Should have been more specific. Water put in the boat would be a small amount to check through hull fittings like the rudder plate. for my leak I started with the shaft seal, rudder seal and then traced the water intake system and exhaust, all of which can be checked in the water with engine cover and rear floor removed.

-------------
For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-15-2010 at 11:53am
ten bucks it's the packing glands and all he has to do is pull the drain, let it dry out, intall the drain plug and lower into water and watch where the water leaks. This is almost comical some of the BS do this don't do that, please this is so simple to figure out it almost not worth commenting on, especially with all the shade tree clowns commenting.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: June-15-2010 at 12:25pm
Okay here is what you need to do. Buy 1000 highlighter pens, a blacklight, silicone, and a squirt gun. Take the fluorescent ink capsules out of all of the pens and throw them in the lake. This will dye your lake water with the fluorescent ink. Make sure you do this right before night time. Now... put the blacklight in the boat. Look carefully for the bright leak! Now take your squirt gun filled with silicone and quickly blast the area to seal it all up. You'll be good to go for another 1 or 2 days.   

-------------
Craig
67 SN
73 SN
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport
85SN


Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: June-15-2010 at 12:38pm
79 and DrCC, thanks for the straight talk and help. Still need a recommendation where to buy the Brass elbows and packing gland materials?


Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: June-15-2010 at 12:45pm
I would think any hardware store will have the elbows, heck even the big box stores probably do.

You can buy the packing gland material (rope) from about any marine supplier.

Here is an example, just because I could find it quickly...but there are many sources.
http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1032



-------------
Craig
67 SN
73 SN
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport
85SN


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: June-15-2010 at 1:51pm
Originally posted by merbesfield merbesfield wrote:

Still need a recommendation where to buy the Brass elbows and packing gland materials?


Mcmaster Carr as mentioend before, DIM, and hardware stores willl all have the elbows.

Here is another place that has them
http://www.mycorrectcraftparts.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

They also have the packing too.

-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: June-15-2010 at 4:09pm
Originally posted by C-Bass C-Bass wrote:

Okay here is what you need to do. Buy 1000 highlighter pens, a blacklight, silicone, and a squirt gun. Take the fluorescent ink capsules out of all of the pens and throw them in the lake. This will dye your lake water with the fluorescent ink. Make sure you do this right before night time. Now... put the blacklight in the boat. Look carefully for the bright leak! Now take your squirt gun filled with silicone and quickly blast the area to seal it all up. You'll be good to go for another 1 or 2 days.   


be sure to get the water friendly ink..

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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: June-15-2010 at 5:01pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

ten bucks it's the packing glands and all he has to do is pull the drain, let it dry out, intall the drain plug and lower into water and watch where the water leaks. This is almost comical some of the BS do this don't do that, please this is so simple to figure out it almost not worth commenting on, especially with all the shade tree clowns commenting.


Yeah thats what everyone told me this spring. 20 + hours and 10 square feet of delamed fiberglass later I had it fixed. Lost some of its comic value.

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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-15-2010 at 5:17pm
Originally posted by OverMyHead OverMyHead wrote:

Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

ten bucks it's the packing glands and all he has to do is pull the drain, let it dry out, intall the drain plug and lower into water and watch where the water leaks. This is almost comical some of the BS do this don't do that, please this is so simple to figure out it almost not worth commenting on, especially with all the shade tree clowns commenting.


Yeah thats what everyone told me this spring. 20 + hours and 10 square feet of delamed fiberglass later I had it fixed. Lost some of its comic value.


not my fault you don't know what delaminated fiberglass looks or feels like. It just amazes me how people overlook the simple stuff then try and compound the matter trying to figure out were the leak is. It's pretty straight forward to figure out, drain and dry the bilge area, remove the floor panel in the rear, lower the boat into the water and watch were the water leaks real tough sitting there drinking a coldie and watching for a stream of water to appear somewhere. This takes a real long time to get to the bottom of it. whats that saying work smarter than harder,.... guess it's work harderd and dumber for a vast majority around here lately.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: June-15-2010 at 5:47pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

Originally posted by OverMyHead OverMyHead wrote:

Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

ten bucks it's the packing glands and all he has to do is pull the drain, let it dry out, intall the drain plug and lower into water and watch where the water leaks. This is almost comical some of the BS do this don't do that, please this is so simple to figure out it almost not worth commenting on, especially with all the shade tree clowns commenting.


Yeah thats what everyone told me this spring. 20 + hours and 10 square feet of delamed fiberglass later I had it fixed. Lost some of its comic value.


not my fault you don't know what delaminated fiberglass looks or feels like. It just amazes me how people overlook the simple stuff then try and compound the matter trying to figure out were the leak is. It's pretty straight forward to figure out, drain and dry the bilge area, remove the floor panel in the rear, lower the boat into the water and watch were the water leaks real tough sitting there drinking a coldie and watching for a stream of water to appear somewhere. This takes a real long time to get to the bottom of it. whats that saying work smarter than harder,.... guess it's work harderd and dumber for a vast majority around here lately.


But Chris I am just a shade tree clown who relies on self proclaimed know it alls for answers. In this case the self proclaimed know it all says just check the shaft log. No advice on what delaminated glass looks and feels like. Can't have it both wys. It is your fault by default.

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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-15-2010 at 5:58pm
Dave,
For a "shade tree clown", I feel you did great!! Besides, in your case, it was a tough call as to whether the leak was from a bad exhaust hose between the stringers or as it turned out the delamination. Didn't Chris think it was a bad hose??

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: June-16-2010 at 2:36am
Thanks for the support Pete.

-------------
For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-16-2010 at 12:30pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Dave,
For a "shade tree clown", I feel you did great!! Besides, in your case, it was a tough call as to whether the leak was from a bad exhaust hose between the stringers or as it turned out the delamination. Didn't Chris think it was a bad hose??


Actually I never made a comment about his problem, to me if you can't find a water leak then you have no business being in a boat.

I find it stupid to be asking questions were to find a water leak, it is so simple to find, but then if you don't pay attention to detail and cannot tell the difference in the way the fiberglass looks in the bottom of the boat and feel around suspect area's I'm sorry about you. And then if you are not smart enough to figure out if you dry out the boat, put it back in the water and watch were the water is coming from you just might find the source of the leak, but hell that's rocket science and overyourhead appearently.

Water flows down hill all you have to do is follow it up hill to find the leak, Childs play in my book.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-16-2010 at 2:27pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

Actually I never made a comment about his problem,

Chris,
You did comment but I made the mistake of saying it was regarding the exhaust hose when you actually mentioned the packing glands.

Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

ten bucks it's the packing glands and all he has to do is pull the drain, let it dry out, intall the drain plug and lower into water and watch where the water leaks. This is almost comical some of the BS do this don't do that, please this is so simple to figure out it almost not worth commenting on, especially with all the shade tree clowns commenting.


Dave did follow all of the sound recommendations in looking for the leaks. It's in another post that possibly you missed. In the water and out. It was actually detected by putting water in the boat and seeing where it came out. It really was a tough call because water was coming out the weep hole in the main stringer which typically would point to a bad exhaust hose.

Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

not my fault you don't know what delaminated fiberglass looks or feels like.


The area of delamination is thick around the log so just pushing on the glass, it may not flex to the point where a person could easily detent the delamination problem.

PS: You want Dave's mailing address so you can send him the $10?   

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-16-2010 at 3:19pm
Pete I MADE NO COMMENTS REGARDING DAVE"S ISSUE in finding his water leak, yes I have commented on this thread which Dave did not start, SO get the FACTS straight.

point is it's not hard to find the leak, now if I would have been commenting on Dave problems which I didn't, If it was me I would have checked several things that he did not and found the leak fairly quickly. Again water flows down hill not up hill so it really not that hard to trace it back to the source and use common scense and logic to solve the problem and find the leak.

So AGAIN I SUGGEST THAT THE BILGE AREA BE COMPLETELY DRAINED AND DRIED AND THE BOAT DROPPED BACK INTO THE WATER, ENJOY A COLD POP WHILE YOU WAIT FOR THE WATER TO APPEAR. PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD AND EASY TO DO FOR ABOUT ANYONE. PS remove the floor panels so that you can see were the water is coming from, SIMPLE CHILDS PLAY CRAP IMHO.


Put if you want to complicate crap go ahead go right ahead. If you can't find the source of a water leak within minutes then you have no business owning a boat

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-16-2010 at 3:43pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

Pete I MADE NO COMMENTS REGARDING DAVE"S ISSUE in finding his water leak, yes I have commented on this thread which Dave did not start, SO get the FACTS straight.

Chris,
Sorry, You are correct that I got Dave and Mark mixed up in this thread. Ok, I'll send Mark the $10 when we find out what the leak is!! Then you can have a cold one on me!!

BTW, I'll safely say it stuffing boxes too.

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-16-2010 at 4:10pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

Pete I MADE NO COMMENTS REGARDING DAVE"S ISSUE in finding his water leak, yes I have commented on this thread which Dave did not start, SO get the FACTS straight.

Chris,
Sorry, You are correct that I got Dave and Mark mixed up in this thread. Ok, I'll send Mark the $10 when we find out what the leak is!! Then you can have a cold one on me!!

BTW, I'll safely say it stuffing boxes too.


I agree, start with the simple most common places then logicly move to other area's where the leak can occur from.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: June-16-2010 at 4:18pm
What if we're all wrong?

What if it turns out to be frozen and broken Airguide ballast tubes?



AT


Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: June-16-2010 at 4:23pm
Oh, and Mark, you can't just sit there and wait for a leak to appear.
You have to get down on your hands and knees and go hunting.
And even tho it's broad daylight, a flashlight is helpful.

Good luck!

AT


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: June-16-2010 at 4:37pm
Mine leaked once from the through bolts of the strut...you wiped and you could see the stream of water comming from below the alum base were tose are bolted....After sealing with SILICONE LOL never leaked again from there.....

But now I wouldn´t use silicone, 5200 or 4200 are the way to go..or polyurethane based sealants...
Another leak I had was on the union between top deck and hull...on curves water made its way and you could see the carpet getting wet in the inside...



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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: June-16-2010 at 5:22pm
My right side Airglide/guide sp? does not work. So whats up with that?


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-16-2010 at 5:40pm
Mark,
It's just another item you need to investigate. If the pitot tubing or the pulsation ballast tube have any leaks in them you will get water in the boat. The pitot on the transom creates pressure when it moves through the water. This then creates air pressure up to the speedos. If there is a break/leak anywhere, then you get the water. Ballast tubes are mounted behind the gas tank on the transom.

BTW, we need to get you to use some boating terms. The right side of the boat is the starboard side!   

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-16-2010 at 5:58pm
check the boat for leaks as it is stationary and turned off, eliminate those, then start it and look for hoses leaking, next drive it and find the leaks. Loose packing glands will leak just seating there, exhaust and pick-up hose will leak seating stationary with the engine runing, Packing glands will also leak underway with the boat moving as well as the speedometer's tubing and ballast tubes.

So there are several stages that you need to check and in that order, stationary boat off, stationary engine running, then while under power. Take your time you'll find them all. With as much water as your getting you most likely have more than one source of water entering the bilge just start each stage with a dry bilge and you will find the leaks.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: June-16-2010 at 6:18pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Mark,
It's just another item you need to investigate. If the pitot tubing or the pulsation ballast tube have any leaks in them you will get water in the boat. The pitot on the transom creates pressure when it moves through the water. This then creates air pressure up to the speedos. If there is a break/leak anywhere, then you get the water. Ballast tubes are mounted behind the gas tank on the transom.

BTW, we need to get you to use some boating terms. The right side of the boat is the starboard side!   


Yea, I know better, just lost my head. Known since I was a kid. I will try to do better. M


Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: June-16-2010 at 8:47pm


Again water flows down hill not up hill so it really not that hard to trace it back to the source and use common scense and logic to solve the problem and find the leak.

Mine flowed from the shaftlog to the stringer when in the water. I believe that is uphill I believe you forgotr to factor in pressure.

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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-16-2010 at 8:51pm
Originally posted by OverMyHead OverMyHead wrote:



Again water flows down hill not up hill so it really not that hard to trace it back to the source and use common scense and logic to solve the problem and find the leak.

Mine flowed from the shaftlog to the stringer when in the water. I believe that is uphill

Naw, That what happens with the Australian group. Or wait a minute, maybe it's something about their toilets??

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Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: June-16-2010 at 9:20pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

Again water flows down hill not up hill so it really not that hard to trace it back to the source and use common scense and logic to solve the problem and find the leak.


One last shot. Mine Came in the shaft log and flowed out the stringer. Uphill in my book. You forgot to factor in pressure.

Sorry I Kind of hijacked this thread but my intended points were these.

1. I want a long list possible problems to look for, first so I do not go to the lake and find out it is not the shaft log and then return home for the next post only to return to the lake again to look at the rudder/through hull fittings ect. And also the more that is discussed the more I learn. I am not an idustry expert but hope to someday be a wise poobah with increased experience and the help of this site.

2.This is a discussion forum, why discourage discussion? If it offends you dont read it. Accurate advice is seldom backed up with reasoning, leaving little to work with when contemplating future situations , but bad advice leads to argeuing and explanations of reasoning and far greater learning potential.

3. I am just a user of this site and not in a position to judge others fitness to contribute. I can challange their input but not judge their worthiness to post. If I could make that judgment I would ban arrogent / discouraging members who put the poo in poobah. Good teachers have knowlege AND the ability to foster others to want to listen and learn.

4. The most common reason for water in the bilge is forgeting to put the plug in .

5. I can find the source of most water leaks in minutes. It is almost always the lake. Can I keep my boat?

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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-17-2010 at 11:44am
water escapes from some point, obviuosly water flows up underpressure, put once it reaches the same height as the pressure head, then it flows down hill or stops if it's still trapped or leaks out if it is allowed to escape an opening before it reaches the leveling point. So water leaking out of a crack has a starting point just like every leak does, so find where the water starts you find the leak, if it looks like it's coming straight out of the fiberglass then you have to probe around some, not rocket science, simple physics, fluid dynamics 101. Some just like to make it harder and dumber sometimes.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: dstop
Date Posted: July-01-2010 at 10:28pm
Hi All


I have a 95SN its my second summer as owner.

I also have water coming from an unidentified location . I followed the above threads ( great conversation) and have isolated it to somewhere from the 3 fins. The water seems to come up in the area in front of the ski rope pylon under the deck. See the picture.   I took the boat out of the water and checked the fins looks like it had been resealed before. what is the best procedure for this repair. If I unscrew the fins will I be able to screw them back easily? does the screw go into a receptacle or is it directly into the fiberglass. any advise would help. thanks



Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-01-2010 at 10:53pm
Daniel,
If there was a problem with the skegs and you see evidence of a attempted reseal that didn't work, I'd have to say to was just a "slop on some silicone"    from the outside job. Remove the skegs and grind/sand off any remnants of sealer. Clean the surfaces up with some acetone or other strong solvent and then bed them back down with some 5200. The screws should go directly into glass. (use some 5200 on them as well)

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Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: July-01-2010 at 11:10pm
Originally posted by dstop dstop wrote:

If I unscrew the fins will I be able to screw them back easily? does the screw go into a receptacle or is it directly into the fiberglass. any advise would help. thanks


The fins are through bolted and should be pretty easy to seal up using Pete's described method above. 5200 is amazing stuff. I applied it to the top of the fin that makes contact with the hull and even put some topside under the washers just for good measure and because the tube seems to last forever. Good luck!

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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Posted By: dstop
Date Posted: July-01-2010 at 11:57pm
I'm not sure i see the "top side" bolts    where are they?


Posted By: dstop
Date Posted: July-01-2010 at 11:59pm
Also I tried to upload a picture of where i think the water is coming from but it did not work. how do i upload it


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: July-02-2010 at 12:39am
Originally posted by Keeganino Keeganino wrote:

Originally posted by dstop dstop wrote:

If I unscrew the fins will I be able to screw them back easily? does the screw go into a receptacle or is it directly into the fiberglass. any advise would help. thanks


The fins are through bolted and should be pretty easy to seal up using Pete's described method above. 5200 is amazing stuff. I applied it to the top of the fin that makes contact with the hull and even put some topside under the washers just for good measure and because the tube seems to last forever. Good luck!


not in this year model....they are only screwed to the fiberglas hull not throuhg bolted..this is safety feature...if you hit something with them they will come off producing little or no damage or holes to the hull..If through bolted in a hit (mayor) they will come of with a chunk of the hull and surely a big hole there....

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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: dstop
Date Posted: July-02-2010 at 1:28am
so does that mean this is not the source of the leak?


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-02-2010 at 9:43am
Daniel,
Where else have you looked for water coming in? How much water is there? Are you sure this water isn't just water in the bilge going forward and then aft again when you accelerate?
If the boat is on a lift, the bilge area by the skegs may be the low point but it depends on how the lift/bunks were set up.

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Posted By: dstop
Date Posted: July-02-2010 at 1:35pm
I have noticed that more ofter than usual the bilge goes on. so I did empty all the water out, dryed up the bildge area and the looked for water. i found it comming up just forward of the ski pylon under the deck . it was not comming in fast


Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: July-05-2010 at 3:01am
Well I found one of the leaks. The port side muffler was cracked. Did a fiberglass repair to it and that is now corrected. But I still have water coming in at other locations. One I can see, the rudder has a slow drip. The other source I cannot see. It is coming from the starboard rear under the gas tank. Maybe the bolts that hold the ski platform? What else could it be in that location? At least I have an operational bilge pump now so I feel better about taking on water. The water is leaking down from the rear and trickling along the path of the muffler and then though the little hole to the center of the bilge. I am sure it is not the muffler this time, it is dry. Leak is definitely coming from farther back. Also not around the muffler exit, it too it dry. Just can't see back in the corner very well, but water appears to be trickling from under the gas tank corner of the boat area. Any help would be appreciated.


Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: July-05-2010 at 3:39am
Holes not sealed around speedo tubing where it exits for the pitot tubes. Cracked speedo lines or dampeners. Do your speedos work? might be a clue. You will probably have to pull the tank to find it and fix it.

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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: July-06-2010 at 1:49am
Originally posted by OverMyHead OverMyHead wrote:

Holes not sealed around speedo tubing where it exits for the pitot tubes. Cracked speedo lines or dampeners. Do your speedos work? might be a clue. You will probably have to pull the tank to find it and fix it.


No one of my speedo's does not work. As a matter of fact, the starboard side speedo does not work and that is where the leak is. Some of the nut/ferrals sp? for the tubing were very loose at the back of the speedo and other locations. Tell me what and where to look. This is a good boat, but definitely has not had any attention spent on it in a long time.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-06-2010 at 9:09am
The speedo pitot tubing and pulsation dampners were mentioned earlier in the thread. Check them out. You'll need to be underway to do this. Any leak and you'll get a fair amount of water.

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Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: July-07-2010 at 4:15am
Very hard to see the dampeners without pulling the tank, but you can feel the speedo tubing where it enters the inside of the boat and see if it it wet when in the water , and when underway. If this is a source of water you will have to pull the gas tank. Dampeners are copper tubes that can fill with water if their is a leak in the speedo tubing between them and the guage. They then freeze and crack in the winter. They can be soldered to repair splits.

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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: July-07-2010 at 1:18pm
Does the tubing ever rot?


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-07-2010 at 1:50pm
Originally posted by merbesfield merbesfield wrote:

Does the tubing ever rot?

It dries out and gets brittle then doesn't fit very well at the fittings. I changed all of the pitot tubing on my 77 a couple years ago.

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Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: July-08-2010 at 12:34am
Well while swimming today I reached up and touched the Port side tubing where it attaches to the pttot at the back of the boat and it broke off in my hands. And this was the side that actually worked. So now I have no speedo's. Do the pitot's ever go bad or just the tubing? Not sure how it should have looked before the tubing came off, but I assume there was a nipple that stuck out and the tubing attached to it with the nut. I just need to know what all I need to buy to replace all the old crap so it is 100% new. I am not even sure if the part at the back of the boat is actually the pitot, but I figure it must be. Looks like a dagger sticking into the water.


Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: July-08-2010 at 1:19am
That is the pitot, if the tubing is that bad outside it is likely shot insided, you can pick it up at a marine store or skidim and other sources will have it online. After you remove the chrome trim from the outside where the tubing goes through the hull you will probably have to drill the tubing out of the hull then seal the new stuff in with 5200 before you replace the trim piece. pulling the gas tank will make the job much easier. your discription of the nipple and nut iws correct, if the nipple is broken off in the tubing then new pitots are in order.The pitots also clog , blow them out while your back there.

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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: July-08-2010 at 2:01am
So one Pitot is definitely broken, which means they both will be replaced. But who sells ones like the OEM? The couple of places on the web I looked at seem to be different looking than what is on there now. Does the tubing make a home run to the back of the speedo or are there connections in between?


Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: July-08-2010 at 2:04am
How about these? Says it is new flow thru style.

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=769B - Pitot from Discount Inboard


Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: July-08-2010 at 3:12am
Cannot help with the new pitots but the tubing on my 87 runs about 4" inside of the transom and then connects to the bottom of the dampeners previously mentioned . The tubing then runs off the top of the dampeners to the speedos.

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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: July-09-2010 at 2:25am
I spent some time today looking at the pitots and tubing. The tubing has been encased in spray foam by the factory so not sure about removing the old stuff. Looks to me like it would have to be abandoned and new tubing ran however I can get it to the front. The original pitot's only have two screws and differ from what I have seen for sale.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-09-2010 at 9:47am
Originally posted by merbesfield merbesfield wrote:

How about these? Says it is new flow thru style.

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=769B - Pitot from Discount Inboard

Mark,
Those are the ones you need to use since as mentioned the originals aren't made anymore. The two mounting holes need to be elongated slightly to match the old holes. I would also use the 3rd hole in the new units. Don't forget the 5200!!!

Yes, the old tubing is usually under the foam. Just abandon it.

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Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: July-09-2010 at 3:57pm
I am so glad that I did not throw anything away. Even my broken dampener. While I may not get the speedo hooked up right away I am going to put the hardware back. Thanks Pete for pushing the "Keep it original" mentality. I might have discarded some precious gems if not for that advice.

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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Posted By: ErikM
Date Posted: August-03-2010 at 2:38am
are the pulsation dampeners hollow?


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-03-2010 at 7:37am
Originally posted by ErikM ErikM wrote:

are the pulsation dampeners hollow?

Yes, just a empty piece of tubing!!

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