Ski Platform
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=18052
Printed Date: November-25-2024 at 10:11pm
Topic: Ski Platform
Posted By: qualls88
Subject: Ski Platform
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 7:14pm
I've got an old teak ski platform that I'm putting on my boat. Does anyone know the best way to treat the teak? Should I put the teak oil on first and then the water seal or vice-versa? I was going to use Thompson's Water Seal on the platform I just don't know if I should do it before the teak oil or after. Thanks to anyone who can shed some light on this...
Jeff
------------- Jeff 1986 Martinique
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Replies:
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 7:17pm
no sealer for me..just teak oil...scrub first with some teak cleaner..then apply the oil..
------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique
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Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 7:41pm
Sealer, Varnish and fine sanding is for "pretty" platforms. Cleaning/Bleaching, brushing, and teak oil is for "functional" platforms.
Many folks treat them like furniture with fine sanding and sealing...and they look GREAT! But with my platforms on boats hanging from lifts in the VA sun, the sealers peel and the sanded & sealed surfaces are slippery. Teak is an open wood; brushing and teak oil keeps the wood "healthy" and gives you some footing.
There are many threads (and approaches) on swim platform care - just search the forums.
BTW - Beautiful Ski Nautique!
Steve
------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq
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Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 8:04pm
Actually, I was just looking through the owners manual this morning for my 93 Ski Nautique. I was looking for info on the swim platform, because I was wondering what the weight capacity is for it.
I couldn't find info on the capacity but it did have a note about teak oil. It looks like you use the teak cleaner first (if need be), and then do the teak oil after. I just applied some teak oil to mine this weekend, I used the starbrite stuff and it seemed to come out pretty good. Mine was clean, just dry. I brushed it on pretty good with one of those black foam triangle painting brushes you get at Home Depot for like 99 cents. Then I wiped off the excess with an old t-shirt.
But yeah, my manual says that your're actually not supposed to use anything that "seals" the wood, like a stain or varnish. The warning it gave was that this doesn't allow the wood the "breathe" and then it can then rot internally. So yeah, you're better with just the teak oil it sounds like, plus it's easier than varnish anyway.
BTW, does anyone know how much weight these platforms can hold? I've so far been trying to make sure no more than two adults are on it at a time. But, I couldn't find a capacity on this anywhere, and there were warnings on everything else (like the rear tow pylon).
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 8:29pm
Thompson's Water Seal?? Where the did you get this idea?? Seriously, I have never heard of the idea plus it's obvious you don't read Consumer Reports. They go after the stuff like crazy and condemn it's use all the time! It's the most hyped up product in any paint department. You've been watching too many TV commercials. As others have mentioned, do not put anything besides Teak oil on Teak. People who have varnished/polyurethaned or any other hard sealing type finish on their Teak have found out the hard way it doesn't work. It may look good at first, but in short time it will peel off! Then they are left with a even bigger problem - getting what's left off the teak!!!
Clean, brighten and oil.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: qualls88
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 8:58pm
You're correct, sir... I don't read Consumer Reports. I definitely will not put water seal on it anymore after reading everyone's advice. I didn't hear the idea anywhere particular, just heard it somewhere. Would you advise pressure washing it? Would that be a bad idea? I really have no clue (as you can tell).
------------- Jeff 1986 Martinique
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Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 9:19pm
Jeff:
You can tear up soft TEAK with a pressure washer if you blast it...... A firm nylon floor brush with sudsy water takes off years of mold and funk. You can use soft brass brushes too for in-between the slits.
I brought back one I found in a junk boat yard which was in brackish water for 20+ years. Multiple scrubs, a few bleach water scrubs, teak cleaner, brass brush the inside edges, dry well in sun......... multiple applications of Teak Oil. It is beautiful and now will be a bar top!
It is a VERY rewarding project. Or you can buy a new one through this site. Those are SWEET! Beautiful but they are a closed cell wood, not teak. I have one of those too (Cheaper than building from scratch in my area).
------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-14-2010 at 9:27pm
Jeff,
I pressure wash mine but not with one of the high PSI washers. I use one of the small electric 1500 PSI units. Yes, a high pressure unit will tear into the wood. I happen to like the job it does. It gets way down into the pores of the wood cleaning out all the gray mold. If it's left in there, the gray comes back quicker. The mold will actually feed on organic teak oils. Try to find a synthetic. The last bottle I got I think was West brand of "golden" teak oil. It will put the color back in from the bleaching/brightening step.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-15-2010 at 11:00am
Pete is right about the teak oil- but in making his case he somehow forgot to include a "keep it original" comment.
Ill go on the record and say that I think it would be a shame to see a platform installed on a 1st generation Ski Nautique. Platforms did not become an option until the late 70's and look out of place on the older boats, in my opinion. Just my 2 cents!
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-15-2010 at 11:39am
TRBenj wrote:
Pete is right about the teak oil- but in making his case he somehow forgot to include a "keep it original" comment.
Ill go on the record and say that I think it would be a shame to see a platform installed on a 1st generation Ski Nautique. Platforms did not become an option until the late 70's and look out of place on the older boats, in my opinion. Just my 2 cents! |
Tim,
I completely missed the boat Jeff has!!
Jeff,
I agree with Tim that a swim platform looks out if place on a 1st generation.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: harddock
Date Posted: June-15-2010 at 7:21pm
Pressure washing (with too much pressure)can really lift the grain on teak, opening the pores in the wood and making it get dirty faster. Marine supply stores sell a two part system to clean treat (oil) the teak. The best way to keep it up is to do it more often. Once left to weather it is more of a chore to get it back.
One final tip is to read the directions first.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4487" rel="nofollow - 1998 Ski Nautique
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Posted By: qualls88
Date Posted: June-15-2010 at 7:30pm
While I agree with you gentlemen about keeping it original, I have to do something to make this boat where we can get in and out of it. I have a 2 year old child and it's hard for my wife to get in and out of the boat and then deal with the child. I didn't come to the decision easily but after spending last summer on the lake, it became apparent that I needed to make it easier on them. I won't go as far as to say that I think it would be a shame to put the platform on. This is the only boat I have and I've got to do what I've got to do. I appreciate everyone's feedback on this. Lord knows I need it! Thanks again for all of ya'lls advice! This summer will be great!
------------- Jeff 1986 Martinique
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Posted By: rmm025
Date Posted: June-15-2010 at 8:26pm
Starbright makes a kit that works prett good has the 3 part cleaner, conditioner, oil, and instructions. I have used on 2 platforms and the results are pretty good.
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Posted By: parrott
Date Posted: June-29-2010 at 4:41pm
Hi qualls88!
I live just south of you. I am guessing you go to Lake Martin. Martin is truly a beautiful lake. Anyway, I just clean my teak and when it starts to look a little haggard, I just put teak oil on it. Keeps it looking like new.
------------- 1999 Air Nautique
1992 Nautique
1978 Nautique
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Posted By: Swatkinz
Date Posted: June-30-2010 at 12:08am
8122pbrainard wrote:
People who have varnished/polyurethaned or any other hard sealing type finish on their Teak have found out the hard way it doesn't work. It may look good at first, but in short time it will peel off! Then they are left with a even bigger problem - getting what's left off the teak!!!
Clean, brighten and oil. |
Actually, Pete, I found out that the teak sealer I used didn't even look good "at first" I hated it from the very beginning although others on this site have used it and in their minds were happy with it. Sorry for the threadjack, but as far as I'm concerned, teak cleaner/brightener/oil is all that I'll ever use again. Starbright used to make a good kit with all three componenets and although it was a little higher maintenance technique that what I'd hoped for , it worked best in my opinion. I applied the teak sealer crap that starbright makes (classic teak) and my platform is the color of buffalo wing induced diahrrea. I hate it and as soon as it wears off, I'm going back to the old school stuff.
My $.02 of course
------------- Steve 2011 Sport/Air 200 Excalibur 343 2017 Boatmate Tandem Axle Trailer
Former CC owner (77, 80, 95, 88, all SNs)
Former Malibu owner (07, 09)
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Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: June-30-2010 at 9:47pm
Clean, brighten and oil.[/QUOTE]
I found out that the teak sealer I used didn't even look good "at first" I hated it from the very beginning. As far as I'm concerned, teak cleaner/brightener/oil is all that I'll ever use again. I applied the teak sealer crap that starbright makes (classic teak) and my platform is the color of buffalo wing induced diahrrea. I hate it and as soon as it wears off, I'm going back to the old school stuff.
My $.02 of course[/QUOTE]
Steve,
I did the same exact thing last spring. I used the NATURAL Teak Sealer. Mine has that mustard color like you described. I hear that the sealer is very hard to remove. I know that Jamestown Distributors sells a Teak Sealer Remover. It is on my too do list to buy some to remove my sealer. They also sell clear Teak Sealer. I am tempted to try the clear sealer, but I will only do it if the sealer stripper works well. Then I can strip it for a second time if I do not like it. I realize that insanity is doing the same thing twice and expecting different results.
Donald
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Posted By: Swatkinz
Date Posted: June-30-2010 at 9:57pm
Donald, If the sealer remover works, I'd be happy to take the extra off your hands. I wouldn't want that stuff sitting around cluttering your manshed for years only to go bad. I'll take it from you and put it to good use so you can sleep well at night. Looking out for YOU of course.
I think I'm just going to let mine wear off for the season and not worry about it. At least you used the natural, mine has a very UN-natural orange look to it. It looks like doodoo
------------- Steve 2011 Sport/Air 200 Excalibur 343 2017 Boatmate Tandem Axle Trailer
Former CC owner (77, 80, 95, 88, all SNs)
Former Malibu owner (07, 09)
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Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: June-30-2010 at 10:06pm
Steve,
I used the Natural and it looks like S$%t !! I got the same color that you described. Yes, I will share the remover once I get some. There is no way I can use the entire can and I will probably not go with sealer again.
I worked six years in the Industrial Hazardous Waste Sales Business. It was many years ago, but I still have a hard time keeping cans of paint that only have a little bit in them. They are hard to dispose of properly. I am not a tree hugger, but I do not want to pour it in the landfill either.
Donald
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Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-01-2010 at 12:30am
I found out why you need a wire brush to get the gray sludge off today.
I assumed the teak cleaner would get that off, but no, it does not appear to do that. Last year I tried to simply oil the platform, and that really didn't make it look any better.
------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg
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Posted By: grose
Date Posted: July-02-2010 at 12:53am
rubbing with brass wool between coats of teak is the secret
------------- 87' Nautique
67' Skylark
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Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-02-2010 at 2:52pm
grose wrote:
rubbing with brass wool between coats of teak is the secret
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Ahhhh!
That sounds like a plan.
------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg
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Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: July-02-2010 at 4:08pm
horkn wrote:
grose wrote:
rubbing with brass wool between coats of teak is the secret
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Ahhhh!
That sounds like a plan. |
and a brass wire brush for between the planks.
I also bleach the platform a couple of times on a major refinish as my last step before oil.
I do use a power washer with a wide nozzle setting staying a good distance from the wood so not to gouge it.
Most important thing I've learned is the wood MUST be completely dry before oiling, I usually let mine set a week after cleaning.
Teak care is not a set it and forget it deal, it needs to be touched up through the season. I usually boat only on the weekends so I let the boat dry for a day, then give the platform a real quick wipe with oil and by the next weekend it's soaked in nice and deep and looks like new. Literally takes a couple of minutes to refresh but it's a must for me.
------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails
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Posted By: dstop
Date Posted: July-02-2010 at 6:00pm
My platform has some sort of coating on it from the previos owner. what should I do to go back to original .. can I use a paint stripper? should I sand it off?
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Posted By: PAPA
Date Posted: July-03-2010 at 2:22am
rmm025 wrote:
Starbright makes a kit that works prett good has the 3 part cleaner, conditioner, oil, and instructions. I have used on 2 platforms and the results are pretty good. |
I have to agree, my son son just purchased the same starbright three part kit and the teak came out looking very nice. Very easy to use and the platform looks awesome again.
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Posted By: dstop
Date Posted: July-03-2010 at 4:46am
Will it take off varnish type finish?
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Posted By: PAPA
Date Posted: July-03-2010 at 9:19am
I don't think it will take off varnish. We had a varnish type on ours that was just about gone so my son just hand sanded the teak first to get that finish off then used the kit to bring it back to life.
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Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: July-06-2010 at 12:50am
dstop wrote:
should I sand it off? |
Be careful if you sand. The plateform is assembled with screws. If you sand too much, you will expose the screws. I will expose the sharp end of the screws. Do not use a power sander.
I hope this helps,
Donald
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-06-2010 at 10:03am
dstop wrote:
Will it take off varnish type finish?
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No as mentioned. Zip Strip or equal then wire brush and pressure wash (not up close at high PSI). You need to get the hard finish out of the pores of the Teak.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: qualls88
Date Posted: July-08-2010 at 8:00pm
I actually got the stuff from West Marine that comes in 2 bottles. The first is a cleaner/brightener and the second is the oil. After pressure washing it and lightly sanding it, I used the cleaner/brightener and then did 3 coats of oil and it came out looking good. It doesn't look brand new, but it looks much better than it did before! The platform was originally from a 1970's Nautique, if I remember correctly. I hope I don't offend too many people by attaching a platform to a '69.
------------- Jeff 1986 Martinique
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Posted By: coach'80
Date Posted: July-08-2010 at 9:03pm
i am in the process of doing mine right now as well. its hard to let it dry after the pressure washing when it keeps raining.
------------- 1980 Ski new project
1994 Ski (sold)
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-08-2010 at 9:26pm
coach'80 wrote:
i am in the process of doing mine right now as well. its hard to let it dry after the pressure washing when it keeps raining. |
Randall,
I highly recommend you unscrew the wood from the brackets and bring it inside. Besides getting it to dry out, you'll be able to do a better job of cleaning and oiling around the edges. Also, there have been reports of the teak oil screwing up or staining the gel coat of the boat. You won't have to worry about any masking or having the oil run down the transom.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-08-2010 at 10:35pm
Pete, Teak oil will stain the gel coat.
At some point someone got some teak oil on my gel coat right near where the platform attaches.
------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg
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Posted By: coach'80
Date Posted: July-09-2010 at 12:39am
i did take mine off before i started anything. it looks so much better already. i have done three coats of bleach and power washing it off. i do have a couple of spots where i was careless with the resin while i was glassing. i guess i will have to lightly sand them? any suggestions?
------------- 1980 Ski new project
1994 Ski (sold)
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Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: July-09-2010 at 12:46am
Yes, Sand off the resin. Just the resin try not to remove much wood.
Donald
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Posted By: coach'80
Date Posted: July-09-2010 at 1:21am
cool. thanks. does it need to dry in the sun? it has only been able to be in the sun a few hours because of the rain. but it has been drying for 48 hours. is that long enough? then i can sand and oil right?
------------- 1980 Ski new project
1994 Ski (sold)
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Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: July-09-2010 at 10:17am
Sorry Coach but if you sand now you have to wash it again. You can't leave the dust from sanding clogging up the pores of the wood. That's why I use the wide fan on a power washer as my last step. Then let it dry, a little sun is ok but 2 days drying out of the sun is probably ok too. If the joints between the lengths of wood appear dry then the rest of it is.
------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails
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Posted By: coach'80
Date Posted: July-09-2010 at 10:24pm
no problem. thanks for the pointer. i will get it sanded today. it has not stopped raining all day and right now we are getting hammered.
------------- 1980 Ski new project
1994 Ski (sold)
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