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Hit a log Strut / prop / maybe shaft too

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=18601
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 7:37pm


Topic: Hit a log Strut / prop / maybe shaft too
Posted By: Whitfield
Subject: Hit a log Strut / prop / maybe shaft too
Date Posted: July-16-2010 at 4:59pm
Pics of my misery







Unfortunatly it is not a Nautique and Dixie boat works went out of business after changing hands a few times ~ so replacement parts will be a little more difficlt to find. Any suggestions for a knowledgable parts resource?

How exactly does one measure up a strut?

I'm looking at removing the bent unit and measuring base / bolt pattern / angle / and bushing od / bushing tube legnth.

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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.



Replies:
Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: July-16-2010 at 5:01pm
IT is SEF-1312 cast into the strut body. Anyone recognise the strut manufacturer?

No luck on that casting number so far.


Rough dimensions (as measured on the boat are)



Base = 5 7/8 x 3 1/4



Mounting holes = 4 1/2 x 2 1/4



Bushing tube legnth = 6 1/16



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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: July-16-2010 at 6:02pm
Did the prop fare that well??? It doesn't look like it was touched.

I think I remember a thread somewhere about someone straightening a strut...but I'm not sure. It may be an option to consider.

Be patient, it's the GL reunion weekend, may be quiet around here till Monday.

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Craig
67 SN
73 SN
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport
85SN


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: July-16-2010 at 7:34pm
I understand about GL ~ it is cool that CCfan has such an event for it's members. I feel like the black sheep with my off brand, often think I should bail out on my boat and join the Nautique club.

On the prop ~Blade on upper rt is bent towards the camera. I scored a clean replacment $75 OJ 13x13 RH off of Ebay last night. The log was HUGE and only a soft ball size nub sticking out of the water. We were coming back at dusk which probally didn't help but I had seen and avoided other debris in the area with out issue. When we hit I was afraid it had taken the entire shaft prop and rudder with it. Fortunatly it did not and we could still make forward progress. We idled the remainig 4 miles up river back to the landing.

Luckily the rudder and tracking fins faired well.

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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: July-16-2010 at 8:46pm
Michael:

That sounds like my lake ..... sneaky, log infested areas. Where did this happen? I am at Smith Mountain Lake in SW Virginia.....

Steve

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https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206
http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot
78 SkiTiq


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: July-16-2010 at 9:14pm
do you have insurance?

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-16-2010 at 9:25pm
Mike all is not lost. Mine was bent when I got it,took it to a good prop repair place and they were able to repair it. Pull your shaft out and have it checked to make sure it's ok too

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: July-16-2010 at 9:44pm
Tough break! I hate to hear that. I wouldn't bail on the old girl yet.

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-16-2010 at 9:57pm
Looking at the angle/twist, if I was a betting man, I would bet the house the shafts bent.


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: July-17-2010 at 2:10am
Yesterday was the first time I got to ski behind my project. Wife pulled me on Trick & Slalom. I had perma grin until I found the strut bent this morning. We were on the James River about 10 miles below Richmond Va. I towed 12 miles to deep water and better beaches as opposed to launching in the swamp .8 mile behind the house. Guess I should have stayed in my own back yard.    

No insurance ~ would they really cover this? If so I'm adding that to my list. Parts alone could get close to that B.O.A.T. acronym

Thanks for the tip Gary ~ I had not thought of a prop repair shop for strut repair. I've got one good shop here but very very few inboards in this area. I have relatives down on the Chesapeake bay and with the commercial watermen I know inboards and prop repair are a way of life for them. I'll look into it further.

Thanks for the encouragement and sympathy.

I'll try to pull it down this weekend and check the shaft. We checked it prior to reinstall so im familure with that proceedure.


Think I may have found the answer on the strut measurements

http://www.marinehardware.com/downloads/running_gear.pdf
   



-------------
Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: July-17-2010 at 10:34am
whit, collision????? of course they cover it, and I even get the insurance companies to pull and rebuild the trans and change the damper, ARE shaft, prop, alignment, it could be in the upwards of a 4k repair
the problem with straightening struts is you have no ending point, you have to eyeball them and hope you get it right

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: July-17-2010 at 10:41am
The strut can be straightened but it is easier to buy new.

Here is anothers source:

www.deepblueyachtsupply.com

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-17-2010 at 11:50am
Using that logic it would be easier to just get a new boat

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: July-17-2010 at 12:06pm
those premiums always hit the mail on time

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: July-17-2010 at 11:53pm
Sent my strut out priority mail to:




http://www.murphyspropellers.com/index.html

They said for straightening a strut most generally run around $40 - $60.

Talking to my uncle he said Murphy's did all the prop work for my grandparents shop 1955-1988 (I was 13 in 88) and Murphy's does work for the Navy facility he works at now. ~ Reputable place

Dropping my strut in the mail gave me a queezy feeling. Insured it for $300 just incase as some CC replacments have listed for that and more. Also took lots more measurements and tracings before sending it away.

I've got a good feeling it was not straight before (Shaft was low and to the right of center in the log) with the chopped up trailer bunks and all. If they can get it close I think I can work with it from there.

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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: July-18-2010 at 12:08am
Still looking for a replacment as a spare or just incase this one does not make it.

Base = 1/4" thick    

Fasteners = 3/8" with counter sunk holes

Base dimensions = 3 1/4" x 5 5/8"

Hole pattern = 2 1/4" x 4 1/2"

Barrel = 6 1/4" long

Barrel Bore = 1 1/4" ID

Front drop = 4 5/8" from base to barrel center line

Rear drop = 6 1/4" from base to barrel center line

Back sweep is just under 2" (Looks like 1 7/8")

Shaft Dia = 1"

Weight = Boxed weight with plastic cutlas bushings and packing peanuts was 6 lbs.





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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-18-2010 at 1:38am
Mike check http://www.buckalgonquin.com/pages/ProductPages/drivetrain/main_strut.html - here . The only thing I think your missing is the hole bore diamater for the shaft.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: July-18-2010 at 4:48am
Thanks ~ I edited the post above to include the bore & weight too.

A couple from the links posted above look close but no ringers.

Strut also looks very close to the dimensions of a the 1984 2001 Nautique Strut on Ebay ~ I just can't take a $300 guess. Maybe I can find a cheap used or damaged 2001 strut to check for measuremnt / fit.

Studying long forgotten Geometry at 1am to find the angle with only the measurements given above.

Might just have to wait until morning (working graveyard shift) when I can take my drawing and work with a rt. triangle.

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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: July-18-2010 at 11:18am
shaft? prop? you can move the strut around to get correct alignment, its not a science with those struts and they dont carry close tolerances, once out you will have to spend some time getting it centered and moving the engine...but then again it may fall right back into place

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: July-18-2010 at 3:16pm
What are the odds that the my repaired strut will position the shaft to refit center of the log using the same holes. I am concerned as I have heard of some folks neddeing to fill and redrill strut holes thru the hull to obtain the proper shaft / log alignment.

Is redrilling common?

I figure it is a given I will need to redrill for any alternate strut, Am I wrong to think this?


~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


Worked the prop shaft this morning. The A.R.E. shaft faired well. It was only out .010   

Got to assist my friend Dave working it back straight using an air over hydraulic 40 ton press. Made up (3) 2"x2"x1/16" aluminium squares to keep from marring the shaft in the press then went to work. It took 6 tons to move it ~ I am always amazed at how far these shafts give before they bend. Working it back in to spec was a long slow process. Press / check / mark repeat. Took manipulating it with 30 - 40 baby steps in the press to get it back in to the .003 spec. While any elementry aged kid could do the physical work the skill and feel involved with this type of press work was way above my head. I'm sure I would have made it into an expensive stainless pretzel.    



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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 12:30pm
Strut made it to Norfolk Va 3:44am sunday morning - 15 Hrs from shiped time ~ now awaiting delivery. Way to go USPS if only the rest of government could get the job done as efficiently.   

Prop shop says 2 day turn around.




SkiDim found me a matching NEW replacement STRUT (same casting #) for $300. Thinking about collecting a spare set of underwater gear (just-in-case) since I'm now up to 3 props.

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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: July-21-2010 at 10:27am
Thanks again to Gary. My strut repair was $55.

Strut should be here today / tomorrow.

Prop is already here.

SkiDIm order with fresh prop nut and 3/16 packing should arrive today.

Hope to assemble tomorrow and be back on the water this weekend. (fingers crossed)

Meanwhile ~ I'm Collecting parts to swap in spare trans after main summer season ends (Rear main seal / fresh trans cooler lines / new damper).

Hopefully once I get the cover back on the boat I'll quit bleeding $$$ long enough to save a few pennys and get the trans out to Eric.

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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: July-21-2010 at 10:36am
at times you may have to oblong the mounting holes, I will mock it all up first then come back with 5200 a go to town, mark your strut at the hull with a sharpie if need be then pull and glue and put back in same spot paying attention to log

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: July-21-2010 at 11:05am
Thanks for the tip. Can't wait for that BIG brown truck to arrive.

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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: Sephmu
Date Posted: July-21-2010 at 3:56pm
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

those premiums always hit the mail on time


Amen!


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: July-21-2010 at 9:52pm
I think I got a big brown box of poo


Looks like the tool they used to straighten the strut damaged the strut bore and cracked the brass. Bore is now distorted and shaft does not fit the hole.   












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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: July-21-2010 at 10:08pm
Disgusted ~ Very Very disgusted....   

Option 1.
Send strut back to Murphy for correction. I only get off of work 1 weekend per month and this is it ~ so that would kill boating this weekend. that would only leave 1 weekend in August left.

Option 2.
Send strut to local Mom and Pop prop shop where they might can knock it out tomorrow

Option 3. File damage area back round reinsert strut bushing and run it until end of season. I'm not very comfortable with the crack.

Option 4. Machine off 1/2" of damaged strut. I could do this tonight would remove the egged bore and the crack. My strut bore is over 6" long I notice that most are shorter. This might not have too great of an effect on the prop shaft. Forward strut bore ~ toward motor is where the damage occurred.

Please tell me why I should not go with option #4.    

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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-21-2010 at 10:09pm
WOW!!!! Have you called them on it yet? Look's like the had the "kid" out back run the hydraulic press!! I'm sorry to see this happen. It can be welded and rebored but by the time you do that, a new one may be the better option. How the "H" could they send that back to you like that??? One thing for sure is never trust a uncle and guys, NEVER EVER send ANY work to Murphy's prop shop - got it!!! If they did that to a strut which is really pretty "beefy", I wonder what they do to props? "Sir, your prop just broke in two pieces - Sorry but we now need to sell you a brand new prop"

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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: July-22-2010 at 12:20am
Bumbaklot! What a sham. There is nothing worse than messing with a man's free time when there is so precious little.

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: July-22-2010 at 4:51am
The shop was closed when UPS delivered my strut. I will call them first thing in the morning.

Option 5.
    What about just pressing the 2-piece cutlas bearing in about 1/2". With my 6" strut their is 2" of room in the middle left to do this, taking the distorted section of the barrel out of the equation with out correcting or further damaging the faulty work.


Option 6.
      Found a guy who parted out a boat like mine locally last month. He has parts for sale. Driving over to buy his strut 2nd thing in the AM. So far I've only spoken to his wife so this is reaching out on a limb but I've got nothing to loose he is with in an hrs drive.

My strut has a casting # of SEF 1312

S.E.F. =   SouthEastern Foundries
SouthEastern Foundries produces non ferrous castings and is know for it's line of marine driveline equipment

SouthEastern Foundries Corp
2706 Oakland Ave
Greensboro, NC 27403
336-299-7212
southeasternfoundries.com

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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: Pgaboeing
Date Posted: July-22-2010 at 10:41am
I do have a driveshaft from my 92ski if you are interested.

Pgaski@hotmail.com


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: July-22-2010 at 8:22pm
Sorry in advance for rambling ~ Very sleep deprived.

Well ~ All businesses make mistakes. What seperates the good from the bad is how they are corrected. I try not to condemn them before givin them a chance to make it right BUT so far this is not going well.

    I contacted Murphy's and sent them email + pics. Upon calling for review the guy says their is no way we damaged your strut but you can send it back to us and we will check it out and make repairs. If it turns out we did it then we will cover it but "we don't use a tool that will do that". He also went on to say it looked like pitting and that it was their before. But in my tears of sorrow upon disassembly I cleaned the strut removing the caulk and polished it up with a 3m pad and brass-o before sending it out. I know the damage was not there. Also I beleive a true tell all is that bore distortion of this degree would have damaged the cutlass bearing if the shaft had been in place when that strike occured. The bearing shows no such sign.   

So they want me to send it to them and drop another $24 in round trip shipping and roll the dice on $55 in repairs. Or drive 80 miles one way and they will fix it while I wait.


On a more positive note ~ The parts boat came thu and I got the entire underwater gear assembly (Tracking fins / log / shaft / strut / prop / and rudder for $250).

Not bad Strut and rudder are good, but 2 of the 3 tracking fins + prop have damage. Prop shaft looks ok but is still unknown.    

I was able to pick up some free Dixie interior wood trim patterns and then discovered them using the motor box upsidedown as an outdoor trash can. I left my # and asked them to give me a call when they were ready to empty the trash. Also promised to catch back up another day when her husband the boat collector is their. While he is the Captian her knowledge and skill of boat repair was amazing. They had a cool collection of old GlasPars and she was cleaning up her SeaFair Sedan to haul to a Glasspar owners event at Topsail Island NC this weekend. Definatly some cool older folks that brightend up an otherwise dreadfully ugly day..
                  

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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-22-2010 at 8:35pm
Michael,
The cause of the damage may never be know. He is correct that they don't use a "tool" that would cause the crack but that dent is awful suspicious. They could grind out the crack and weld it up just like they would do a prop repair but I feel your idea of just milling a 1/2" off the end is best. If you do, just take a real close look at it to make sure the milling goes far enough to clean up the complete crack. It's on the forward side of the strut and I honestly do not feel a 1/2" of strut bore removal will make a difference.

It's great you got the other parts but it's always nice to have spares.

On the bent tracking fins, are you going to send them to Murphy's for straightening?

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: July-23-2010 at 7:35am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Michael,

It's great you got the other parts but it's always nice to have spares.

On the bent tracking fins, are you going to send them to Murphy's for straightening?


   One black eye is enough...
I'll buy my buddy in the machine shop another case of Corona before I send anything back down to Murphy. I'm gonna stop by the local Mom and Pop prop shop this morning after work. They are a Mercury OB race tuing facility ~ My original concern was lack of experience with inboards. After this mess they can't do any worse   

Unfortunatly my matching cast replacment strut has a different hole pattern. I'll need to get the holes filled so I can fit and redrill.

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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: July-23-2010 at 7:41am
Is it common for them to NOT resurface the hull mounting table?

Setting my repaired strut on the glass stove cook top it will wobble with almost a 1/4" off of level on opposing corners also looks like it was dropped on one corner as the counter sunk hole is smushed to an oblong shape. It took a hit hard enough to bend the bolts but I don't recall any of the holes being distorted ~ Don't know maybe I missed it.     

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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: July-23-2010 at 10:14am
one thing i can add, brass or bronze very similar to cast iron is very tough to straighten, its more of a powder than a grain and cracks very easily.

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: July-24-2010 at 9:26pm
Originally posted by Whitfield Whitfield wrote:



My strut has a casting # of SEF 1312

S.E.F. =   SouthEastern Foundries
SouthEastern Foundries produces non ferrous castings and is know for it's line of marine driveline equipment

SouthEastern Foundries Corp
2706 Oakland Ave
Greensboro, NC 27403
336-299-7212 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting              336-299-7212      end_of_the_skype_highlighting
southeasternfoundries.com


I live about a mile from there I would have never known it existed.

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: July-28-2010 at 1:07am
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

one thing i can add, brass or bronze very similar to cast iron is very tough to straighten, its more of a powder than a grain and cracks very easily.



Drilling this stuff sux

My plan to have the prop shop weld up the holes went well But setting the strut in place and redrilling the strut has 2 major flaws.

1. Ni-bral is about the most difficult stuff to drill I've ever run across. Cast iron and concrete drill easier. Looking back now maybe I'd have been better off to fill the old holes in the hull and re-drill the thru hull holes.


2. It is hard as hell to hold the strut in place (shaft mounted to trans thru strut + jack + blocks + ratchet strap + wife under boat watching for any strut shift. Not working too well ~ Hull is much softer and drill wants to walk + I am having trouble holding the drill straight.


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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-28-2010 at 9:43am
Originally posted by Whitfield Whitfield wrote:




Drilling this stuff sux

1. Ni-bral is about the most difficult stuff to drill I've ever run across. Cast iron and concrete drill easier. Looking back now maybe I'd have been better off to fill the old holes in the hull and re-drill the thru hull holes.

If you ever have to drill a strut again, I suggest checking your drill bit geometry of the cutting edge.
First, the strut is bronze and not nibral. Bronze is not hard to drill so you must have a dull drill bit. Did you drill a pilot hole first? Drill press or hand drill? Try a 135* split point bit and one very old tool makers/machinist's trick is to grind the cutting edge to a 0* rake.

Nibral isn't hard to drill ether. It's rockwell hardness is close to most stainless steels. It does however work harden just like stainless does so the trick is to keep the pressure on the drill bit keeping it cutting. If the bit stops cutting and "skids" over the stainless, it's now hardened! Plenty of coolant/cutting fluid helps big time. "Anchorlube" is the best.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: July-31-2010 at 3:45am



Finally got the strut to the shop so Dave could cut the new holes to the old pattern with the end mill. Picked up a 12" 1/2" drill bit extension to work the 60 deg. counter sink bit around the shaft bore.

Finished up Wednesday night and haven't been able to work on the boat again yet. Got bored tonight so I cleaned u the strut some.











Worked it from 36 grit to 1000 grit and then polished it up with brasso. Not perfect but much cleaner and gave me somthing to do while I couldn't turn wrenches. Any suggestions for preservation, I assume it will green up and tarnish quick. All but the 36 grit was by hand.




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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: July-31-2010 at 4:55pm
That looks pretty cool! I polished some of the cast aluminum pieces on my boat. I don't have a shop so when the weather is not agreeable to working on the boat I work on the hardware. It will tarnish fast but it will be easy to brasso it clean now that it is polished if you want to show it off.

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-31-2010 at 6:25pm
Michael,
Even with the Orbit gum, you'll be tasting bronze for at least one or two days after the polishing!!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: August-01-2010 at 1:21am
Measuring tape doesn't lie ~ Log hole is not centered under boat but strut pocket is centered.

3/8" more hull measured on starboard side of log hole then port (3/16" off center).

This makes a big difference with a centered strut.

How best to work around / correct.

Thinking I may try a shim on starboard side of strut first ~ but how much? .005 / .010 / .020 / .030 ???

Log hole to hole is also not true ~ measuring off log screws 1/8" more on starboard side (log screws to hole). I'm gonna grind the hole smooth and open it up a little with a portable mini belt sander.

Otherwise I could cheat the strut holes but then the packing gland / shaft will still ride to one side of log slightly but it did that before the log strike too.

I'm thinking the factory must have made an engineering adjustment at final assembly to compensate that I am not aware of.

Again this is not a Nautique and I find myself sucking up mud / chasing my tail fighting working on my non common boat.

Edit >>>
     Yes ~ Still tasting the bronz / but now it is mixed with some fiberglass dust too!


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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-01-2010 at 9:31am
Don't worry to much about the hole in the hull. As long as the shaft isn't touching, your good. Worry more about hot the strut is aligned with the log. It too can be off slightly because the rubber hose between it and the packing gland will compensate some. Since you pretty much starting from scratch with bolting on the strut, The best way is to find a piece of tubing just under size of the strut bore (no cutlass - 1&1/4"?). Slip it through the strut and the log and shim/elongate the holes in the hull if needed. Stainless flat washers work great for shims but don't go past 1 washer per bolt. If two are needed then I'd start rebuilding/filling the strut base pad with filled epoxy. Plastic wrap the base, add the epoxy then start tightening the bolts. Keep checking the piece of tubing for the alignment. Pull the strut after it cures and then bed it in 5200.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: Rasir2005
Date Posted: August-04-2010 at 12:52pm
Wow, Thats a first for me to see. If you cant find a replacement see if your local prop shop can straighten it for you. They can work wonders.
Good luck.


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: August-15-2010 at 10:59am
My obsession with centering the shaft in the log / thru hull assembly has bitten me. Now with everything set up and aligned engine is off to port up front / shaft is off to starboard at the rudder. This was necessary due to the thru hull being factory drill off center to starboard side.    

Shaft alignment is good (trans to shaft) so I'll give it a try. My concern is the engine is slid over just about too far PORT on the front adjustment.      

I know the packing gland (flex mounted) will give and log center is not a necessity but starting with strut alignment from scratch with a new strut and differen holes the shaft log was my only solid point of refrence.

NOW next time I remount the strut I'll NOW know EXACTLY where I need to be.

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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.



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