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Holley 4160, or edelbrock carb?

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=18617
Printed Date: November-21-2024 at 10:43pm


Topic: Holley 4160, or edelbrock carb?
Posted By: horkn
Subject: Holley 4160, or edelbrock carb?
Date Posted: July-18-2010 at 3:46pm
I'm looking to buy a new carb for my 78. The edelbrock marine 600 cfm is around 100 dollars less money, and everyone I have talked to that has ever replaced a holley with an edelbrock has said how much easier the edelbrock is to get set up, and keep running right.

The Holley has the nice feature of being able to run a PCV hose to the base, and it is what I have on the boat, ad what it came with.

The boat already has an edelbrock performer manifold, so I could eliminate the adapter plate i needed for putting the holley on the edelbrock manifold.

Any thing I can do to keep the height lower ( using as few plates as possible) so i can fit my existing flame arrestor is a good thing. I did cut about a 1/2" off the original flame arrestor, but if I add the stock 1" spacer with the PCV port, it is still too tall. I run the PCV port to a plug in the manifold now.

So, what are your takes on these 2 carbs?

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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg



Replies:
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: July-18-2010 at 4:37pm
Recalculate your budget and heights after adding a wedge plate to make an edelbrock work.

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-18-2010 at 5:11pm
Yeah, I was reading that an edelbrock will require to sit level. On my boat, yes, that will require a wedge, and those are not cheap. After the wedge is added in to the edelbrock carb cost it's probably going over the cost of a new 600cfm marine 4160.

I know my holley sure never at level straight from PCM and had no wedge.

If an edelbrock is so picky about sitting level, then how will it perform on a boat that many times is not level at all once under way?

The one guy that has an edelbrock that I read about on CCF has a newer 1.23;1 tranny that makes the motor sit level compared to the 1:1 of my VD.

The other issue with a new Holley is that the new one will have the different style of fuel inlet. I can add a proper metal fuel line with that, right?

-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-18-2010 at 5:26pm
Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:


The one guy that has an edelbrock that I read about on CCF has a newer 1.23;1 tranny that makes the motor sit level compared to the 1:1 of my VD.

Tom,
You really need to get to next years reunion. That way you may be able to see some other boats and the engines. It would add to your knowledge and get you out of that Ford automotive closet!   

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-18-2010 at 7:36pm
Oh, I agree, going to the reunion would be great.

How many edelbrock carbs do you know of on CC's?

Holley has the market covered on carbed boats.

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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: July-18-2010 at 8:17pm
i just put the new edlebrock marine carb on my boat with the spacer . it went on and ran as all my truck and car edlebrocks adj the idle and go. i have never had a bad one. the spacers are online for 40 or so i just got a spare one on ebay i ont need it if you do i will discount it to you .

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former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go


Posted By: 85skinautique
Date Posted: July-18-2010 at 9:11pm
Just a note on cost of new Holley carb 4160. If you trust mail order and order from skidim, put ccfan in as coupon code to get 10% off. Should put you around $450.00 (brand new). Not sure what you've got priced.

Just some info on price,
Matthew

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85skinautique2001


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-18-2010 at 9:40pm
Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

Oh, I agree, going to the reunion would be great.

How many edelbrock carbs do you know of on CC's?

Holley has the market covered on carbed boats.

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:


The one guy that has an edelbrock that I read about on CCF has a newer 1.23;1 tranny that makes the motor sit level compared to the 1:1 of my VD.

Tom,
You really need to get to next years reunion. That way you may be able to see some other boats and the engines. It would add to your knowledge and get you out of that Ford automotive closet!   

Tom,
The point I was desperately trying to make too you plus being nice, is you need to get out of the closet you're in and see more boats. Not really due to the carb but the down angle trans allowing the engine to sit on the level. Do you know that it's been around since the 50's ?? Chrysler actually did it right after the war. Being very blunt now and AGAIN, you speak up on subjects you really shouldn't. You aren't even versed in relatively current engine/trans combo's!!

Commenting on the carb, ether you stick with a Holley or you are about to get yourself into trouble AGAIN!! JMHO!!!

GET IT???????

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: July-18-2010 at 10:55pm
either carb you get will need some setting and tune up, if you cant tune your current why waste money on a new one?

What's the problem with your current carb?

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: July-18-2010 at 11:14pm
Pete how do they become level? or close to level?

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former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-18-2010 at 11:19pm
Pete, I understood the point you were trying to make, but it's a point that is moot. This will be the last carbed boat i will own, well, and inboard one at least. I also don't ever plan on selling it, so I want it to run properly.

I'm aware how long the edelbrock carbs have been in use, I know that they are not something that is brand new and un tested.

Peter1234, you don't need to discount the adapter if I end up going with an edelbrock, I would gladly pay you what you paid for it. What angle is it? I'm assuming mine would be the same angle as yours to get level.

I just don't know if I want to go with an edelbrock. I have learned more about holley carbs than I thought I would ever need to know. But, I definitely am still not anywhere near a holley carb expert.


Matthew, I am all over the 10% DIM discount, I will have to use another code other than the CCF one as you can only use   each code 1x per season:)

Summit has the 600cfm 4160 for like $409, but this does have a slightly different inlet than the original PCM bowl. I don't think that will really give me too much hassle. I can find a work around if the threading is different on the one from summit. I also have a 20 dollar off code for summit, so that will make the Holley like $390.

Luchog, yeah, I know even a "calibrated for 351W" use holley will probably need a little adjustment, but seeing that i understand float height and all that crud now for a holley, I don't know what else would need adjustment on a new holley. Maybe some accelerator pump adjustment too?

Between those issues, and that the needle valve and seat probably are one of the real issues, I don't want to spend 40-50 dollars on a rebuild kit for a carb that still weeps gas from the shafts, and the carb might have other issues.

Since I will be keeping the boat a long time, it makes sense to get a new carb after 30+ years.

The carb body I suspect is not an original carb body from PCM. It might be that it is not a marine body as it does not have j tubes, and new J tubes won't even fit into it. When PCM started to put J tubes on is not certain, so that does not disqualify it being a marine original carb either.   Also, the shafts have weeped fuel at some point, so even if the whole carb was a marine one, that it needs to be replaced.


One more thing, the PO of my boat attempted in vain to put a holley projection TBI kit onto my boat some time before I bought it. That fact makes me thing the carb is not original, and even if it is a marine carb, who knows how many hours the carb had on it? I know the dealer did not have the original carb, and threw one on they had sitting around. One more reason to get a new one to know what i am working with.





-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 1:06am
Holley, Holley, Holley... Stay with it..

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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson




Posted By: psherwin
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 1:21am
My '86 351 restoration project boat came with an Edelbrock. It does not have the angled piece. What happens if you don't have it?


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 1:40am
Good question?



How does yours run with no wedge adapter?

-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: psherwin
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 2:00am
It runs fine at all ranges, except it floods when shut off and it is a hard start when cold. Oh, yes; it idles fine for a few minutes then wants to choke down and die.


Posted By: inglesideshawn
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 2:18am
just got a new holly from summit,$480 and got 40 bucks off... its amazing how good it starts,idles,and even the choke setting is perfect....well worth the money...



this one was set up for the 351

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1989 nautique


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 9:24am
Originally posted by peter1234 peter1234 wrote:

Pete how do they become level? or close to level?

Peter,
The "down angle" trans is just that. A set of bevel gears usually with reduction is at the tail end of the trans. This puts the output shaft at a angle close to what the prop shaft is so the engine sits basically level with the stringers.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 11:50am
Pete,

I think you were a little tough on Tom. Where it may be true that down angled transmissions have been around forever, given the fact that probably 95% of the boats on this site are either BW 1:1s or PCM 1.23:1s, I dont think it was outlandish for him to refer to the 1.23s as the common downangled transmission. You guys have been beating up on him a lot. Some justified, some a little over the top. If he said today is monday you guys would jump in and say, well technically thats not true because just over the international date line it just turned tuesday.

Tom...regarding the edelbrock carb. I'm not a mechanical wiz, but having experience with both, I find the edelbrock much more reliable, user friendly, and easier to work on. Always reading on here about Holleys, power valves, cams, metering blocks, diaphrams, adjustments all needing needing work or going bad. Edelbrocks have none of that. Two needle valves...end of discussion. Mine got a little gummed up this spring. With no previous knowledge or experience (but a new book) I took the top off, cleaned out all the vacuum and fuel passages put it back together and its like new. (besides being tons cheaper than the Holley) I can't speak about whether or not you need a wedge to make it run right. Someone here said no need, but that there were issues. I have a wedge on my chevy, which sets at an angle due to the BW trans.

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_____________
“So, how was your weekend?”
“Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.”


Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 12:28pm
Thanks Pete. I also run a marine 750 but its on my camaro 454. every other carb i have is an edlebrock they do seem more dependable

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former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go


Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 12:34pm
Some people can be perfectly happy with mediocre, hense the edelbrock option.

BTW there is indeed more to the edelbrock than two needle valves.


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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 1:09pm
If 6 years of easy starts, slow smooth idle, good acceleration, good power, no skips, burps or backfires, 50 mph top end and not a lot of d*cking around with all the aformentioned gizmos that I am constantly reading about getting d*cked around with is mediocre, yup, I guess I am perfectly happy with mediocre. Not being overly mechanically inclined I will take mediocre and reliable over somehow better but fussier and more complex, but thats just me.

I am also perfecly happy with my 76 boat, which is at best a mediocre ski boat compared to a nice 196...anything else you would like to editorialize on my preferences about...my house? car? job?





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_____________
“So, how was your weekend?”
“Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.”


Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 1:11pm
Originally posted by GottaSki GottaSki wrote:

Some people can be perfectly happy with mediocre


Very true statement. And it's not that one side is right and the other is wrong.

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Craig
67 SN
73 SN
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport
85SN


Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 1:48pm
Somebody had their insecurity flakes for breakfast.

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 2:30pm
I guess for me having worked on muscle cars since the mid 70s and seeing o rings on transfer tubes leak. gas stains on the intake from float adjustment screw seals. power valves popping, trying to figure out what power valve is the right one , sorting thru jet kits . I never saw a great amount of performance diff between the two but have had a lot more hours having to tweak holleys than edelbrocks. i know there is a diff in raw performance but i would trade the 2.5% perf diff on my 300 hp boat for the peace of mind any day.but what do i know i am only 50

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former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go


Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 2:53pm
I guess that sounds like more baby boomer sour grapes, can't figgure it out, must be the hardware's fault.

I will concede that in a marine application the Pv is like t|ts on a bull. With no high vacuum economy cruise on a boat, load is always proportional to speed, so it only really needs to stay closed from 14-24 mph or so, and if one ups the mains appropiately, could plug it and any a few could tell the difference.
but, i've never seen one pop.

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 3:37pm
missed baby boomer status by one yr its just sour grapes .

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former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go


Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 4:22pm
ok. I'm leaning sour today too.

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 4:36pm
Originally posted by 75 Tique 75 Tique wrote:

I am also perfecly happy with my 76 boat, which is at best a mediocre ski boat compared to a nice 196...anything else you would like to editorialize on my preferences about...my house? car? job?

Not to worry, Larry- I think Tom should be pretty darn familiar with mediocre ski boats too.

I sure wouldnt second guess his carb knowledge, though.

The only experience I have with Edelbrock carbs is the automotive version that came on my Tique when I bought it. I never tried running it, but the set up alone would have been enough to deter me from using a marine version. The wider footprint required bending the throttle bracket, and theres no way a $15 PCM hard fuel line would have reached the fuel inlet.

Holleys arent cheap, so there had to be another reason why PCM used them. Ive never found them to be the least bit fussy.

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Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 4:50pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Not to worry, Larry- I think Tom should be pretty darn familiar with mediocre ski boats too.


doh!

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 7:41pm
We were debating about Holley versus Edelbrock for our Classic. It has a 312 with an automotive Edelbrock and we want to get a marine carb. There was a thread discussing carbs on the Y Blocks Forever web site and this guy posts how great his 312 ran with a 600 CMF Holley. I asked him a question about it and he PMs me and says he switched to an Edelbrock because he got sick of always having to mess with the Holley. Now it runs great. It must be a Ford thing with the Holleys.

I'd say of you have a Holley now, stick with it. If you have an AFB, go with Edelbrock.

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Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 8:23pm
My last time out, I had some small backfires. It did it a couple of times and then completly quit. Called my mechanic and said the backfire came from the "power valve", which probally has ruptured and is leaking fuel into the motor. Said it would be fine until the end of the summer. Holley are very tempermental, but if they have all the right pieaces working, they are a great carb. I have heard many good things on Edlebrook carbs though.

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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson




Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 8:26pm
dont leave it till the end of summer and usually they rupture from a back fire not the other way around

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former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go


Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 8:34pm
So it could get worse? Hot damb....

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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson




Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 8:43pm
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

   It has a 312 with an automotive Edelbrock and we want to get a marine carb. .

Come on Bruce!! When are you going to go back original with the YH carbs??? You probably knew I was going to say something!! I know you have the intake manifold.

BTW, Steve (62wood) has plenty of spare YH's now!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 9:01pm
Pete, It is original! It's a marine downdraft, not an automotive intake. It uses the 2 goose necks just like the side drafts. I can't believe you've never picked that up when looking at the pics of the engine. I have an intake and 1 YH, but I don't ever see them going on that 312.

Our Mustang is running good, but is having some fuel issues. I may be talking to that carb guy, too.



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Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-19-2010 at 10:36pm
Thanks for the kind words Larry.

I'm a big boy, I can more than hold my own.

While I may have a bit to learn about CC's especially the old ones (which I really don't care too much about other than if it looks nice) , I know more than some guys here are giving me credit for.

As far as the carb, I am going to try putting a new needle valve and seat on the exiting Holley carb.

If that does not do it, I will put a new carb on, and I am thinking Holley, mainly because that is what it has on it, and I want to make this as easy as possible.

-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: July-20-2010 at 10:14am
the only thing i can add is more than once, I have pulled off the edels and put on Holley's...it seems the edels dump to much gas
swapping over is the pita, bending new lines, linkage etc
I guess its personal preference and holley is embedded in my brain and thats what ive come to know. plus they look better

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-20-2010 at 1:15pm
Thanks Eric!

That info definitely helps me in my decision. Contrary to what some might think, I am good with turning wrenches, but why make more work when you don't need to?


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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-20-2010 at 1:57pm
yea great idea replace the carb remove the spacer foolish idiots worried about changing over this to that hell you can't even figure out the one you've got and think a new one is going to solve the problems, learn how to adjust a carb properly as you're not even in the right state to be close to the ball park to get it right.



leave the power valve alone until end of summer another idiot talking foolish BS.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-20-2010 at 2:04pm
Thanks for the BS Chris.



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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-20-2010 at 2:37pm
Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:



As far as the carb, I am going to try putting a new needle valve and seat on the exiting Holley carb.

If that does not do it, I will put a new carb on, and I am thinking Holley, mainly because that is what it has on it, and I want to make this as easy as possible.


you might as well save the money for the needle and seat and use towards the new carb and after your done waisting your money on the carb maybe you'll listen doubt it, but half ace is close enough for you most it's not but you seems fine with it.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: July-20-2010 at 2:51pm



leave the power valve alone until end of summer another idiot talking foolish BS. [/QUOTE]

I hear ya Chris...

Plan on running the boat one more time and see if it still exists. If it does, off to Austin she goes.

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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson




Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-20-2010 at 2:57pm
Originally posted by skicat2001 skicat2001 wrote:




leave the power valve alone until end of summer another idiot talking foolish BS.

I hear ya Chris...

Plan on running the boat one more time and see if it still exists. If it does, off to Austin she goes.


just go down to any autoparts store and get the holley 6.5 power valve and a primary gasket and swap it out, pretty straight forward easy to do no need to pay someone to do it. If the carb all ready has blue gaskets they are reusable and all you need is the power valve.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: July-20-2010 at 3:05pm
I will start a new thread on "Power Valve". I just need to know where it is located. I can figure it out from there. Thats why I ENDURE this site.

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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson




Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: July-20-2010 at 10:48pm
Chris i know i may seem like a foolish idiot but have you ever read through your posts? man you spell like an idiot

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former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go


Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: July-20-2010 at 10:50pm
Originally posted by peter1234 peter1234 wrote:

Chris i know i may seem like a foolish idiot but have you ever read through your posts? man you spell like an idiot


LMAO...

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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson




Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: July-21-2010 at 12:37am
Uhm, i'm aware i'm sticking my nose where it doesn't belong, but if thats how you guys choose to follow up an apparently straightforward, constructive answer, then you get what you get... Consider not clogging threads so frequently with how fewwings are hurt and such.

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-21-2010 at 1:45am
My boat will stall when the air screws on either side of the primary are tightened down. From all that I have read, that means that the power valve is good. If it still ran after tightening both of those screws down, then that means the PV needs replacement.

Now, is the PV that is in there on mine the proper one? Good question? I will find out.

I'll work on my carb tuning skills, and Chris, you work on your people skills.

-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: July-21-2010 at 4:33am
Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

My boat will stall when the air screws on either side of the primary are tightened down. From all that I have read, that means that the power valve is good. If it still ran after tightening both of those screws down, then that means the PV needs replacement.


it means the iddle circuit ir working properly and your metering block is OK. Nothing to do with the PV. Wonder where you read that, I never read that here. unless yours ruptured and leaking it shouldnt be a problem.

Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:


Now, is the PV that is in there on mine the proper one? Good question? I will find out.


Even if your not running "the proper" PV your carb should perform right.
Choosing the correct PV depends on how and what you use your boat for.

Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:


I'll work on my carb tuning skills, and Chris, you work on your people skills.

Chris is really bad at people, and lately it's been getting worse, I dont think he has any hope.

Again, what's the problem with your current carb?
Do you want help? Please detail the problem, not your ideas about it.
We will try to help you out.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-21-2010 at 11:07am
Luch, I sure do want help. There is extra gas is dripping from the squirters on the primary, even at idle.

That makes it stumble.

Thanks,
Tom

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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: July-21-2010 at 11:10am
Call Karen at MyCorrectCraft parts and order a new 4160 and gasket. In a half hours your problems will be solved.

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Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: July-21-2010 at 11:28am
First off.
-take the primary bowl off,
-turn it upside down, making the needle close on the seat,
-cover the balance tube passage with a finger
-Try to suck from the fuel inlet, then put your lip or tongue see if it sticks. This checks vacuum is generated and will tell you if the needle closes well.

If you also take the metering block off, you can try the same with the PV, sucking from the rounded face the PV should compress and stay compressed. If not it's ruptured.

Check float level, keeping in mind the float has a tiny lift after it seats because of fuel pressure. If you have any doubts, post a pic of it at "closed position".

Check those 3 things, and report back,








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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: July-21-2010 at 4:15pm
Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

Luch, I sure do want help. There is extra gas is dripping from the squirters on the primary, even at idle.


Tom you're going to have to look up and use the right component names or this is going to get extra tedious.

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-21-2010 at 4:18pm
hhhhmmmm leaks gas, must be bad needle and seat, but hell I've all ready rebuilt it once, changed the fuel pump to, what gives, the float looks fine can't figure it out.....so simple yet so far out of reach to comprehend the problem and fix it.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-21-2010 at 6:28pm
Originally posted by GottaSki GottaSki wrote:

Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

Luch, I sure do want help. There is extra gas is dripping from the squirters on the primary, even at idle.


Tom you're going to have to look up and use the right component names or this is going to get extra tedious.



Boosters I do believe is the proper term.







-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-21-2010 at 6:47pm
Originally posted by Luchog Luchog wrote:

First off.
-take the primary bowl off,
-turn it upside down, making the needle close on the seat,
-cover the balance tube passage with a finger
-Try to suck from the fuel inlet, then put your lip or tongue see if it sticks. This checks vacuum is generated and will tell you if the needle closes well.
Yes, doing this resulted with my tongue stuck to the inlet tube. I guess that means the needle and seat are good

If you also take the metering block off, you can try the same with the PV, sucking from the rounded face the PV should compress and stay compressed. If not it's ruptured.
Doing this also appeared to prove that the PV is not ruptured. It has 6 and 5 on it, so that should mean it is a 6.5 PV then, right?

Check float level, keeping in mind the float has a tiny lift after it seats because of fuel pressure. If you have any doubts, post a pic of it at "closed position".

This appears to be nearly level. I don't think this is the culprit either.

Here is a pic of it....



Check those 3 things, and report back,



The psi from the new marine fuel pump is 8-8.5 psi.



-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-21-2010 at 8:30pm
Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:



Check float level, keeping in mind the float has a tiny lift after it seats because of fuel pressure. If you have any doubts, post a pic of it at "closed position".

This appears to be nearly level. I don't think this is the culprit either.

Sorry Tom but to me it looks high. Didn't I mention once before that you need to go to the optometrist?? It's not sitting "nearly" level.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-21-2010 at 8:59pm
Pete, if I lower the float like this( as it sits when the bowl is on the carb) it will be raising the float.
Remember this is up side down.

If this looks to be needing to be lowered when the bowl is turned right side up, I can do that.

As far as my eyesight, it's already been fixed a long time ago and is 20/20.

-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: July-21-2010 at 9:07pm
lower the float and report back. Watch that spring float.

The PV is 6.5, it's fine.

You are getting raw fuel out the primaries venturis.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-22-2010 at 12:53am
Yeah, that did fix the fuel coming from the primary venturis.

It does idle nicely now, and when I rev it up it runs well too, but under steady throttle above like 1000 rpm or higher, it does still dump non atomized gas through the primary venturis, making it not run totally smooth.

Shouldn't the gas be a little better atomized at all times?

-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: July-22-2010 at 10:20am
I can add that a couple weeks back i installed a 6 to 9 psi electric fuel pump on an engine, it leaked like a mfer and kept flooding the engine, the carb was rebuilt with new needles and seats....i replaced the 6 to 9 with a 3 to 5 and the leak quit...

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-22-2010 at 11:40am
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

I can add that a couple weeks back i installed a 6 to 9 psi electric fuel pump on an engine, it leaked like a mfer and kept flooding the engine, the carb was rebuilt with new needles and seats....i replaced the 6 to 9 with a 3 to 5 and the leak quit...


waisted your time and money replacing the needle and seat BTW.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-22-2010 at 11:45am
Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:



The psi from the new marine fuel pump is 8-8.5 psi.



DA never listen keep waisting effort. Stick a weight on the float while your getting all wet there standing in the wind.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-22-2010 at 11:45am
Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:



The psi from the new marine fuel pump is 8-8.5 psi.



DA never listen keep waisting effort. Stick a weight on the float while your getting all wet there standing in the wind.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: July-22-2010 at 12:22pm
Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

Yeah, that did fix the fuel coming from the primary venturis.

It does idle nicely now, and when I rev it up it runs well too, but under steady throttle above like 1000 rpm or higher, it does still dump non atomized gas through the primary venturis, making it not run totally smooth.

Shouldn't the gas be a little better atomized at all times?



I think you have solved the problem, you could try lowering the float a tad more, but then try some steady run at 2500-3000rpms to see if it's not too low.

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-22-2010 at 1:40pm
Originally posted by Luchog Luchog wrote:

Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

Yeah, that did fix the fuel coming from the primary venturis.

It does idle nicely now, and when I rev it up it runs well too, but under steady throttle above like 1000 rpm or higher, it does still dump non atomized gas through the primary venturis, making it not run totally smooth.

Shouldn't the gas be a little better atomized at all times?



I think you have solved the problem, you could try lowering the float a tad more, but then try some steady run at 2500-3000rpms to see if it's not too low.


If it stops raining today I will try that.

Chris, DIM says spec for the new fuel pump is 6-8 psi. Vince wrote me an email saying it was within spec. Someone else on this site just bought the same pump as I did, and ended up with the same issues regarding raw fuel coming out of the primary Venturis. I don't know if he solved his issues, he was a new member.




-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-22-2010 at 2:05pm
same old same old got all the answers all ready sorry your still having issues and waisting money.


My friend that's pretty decent turning wrenches fought and fought a miss at higher RPM, changed this that spent a lot of money chasing it, he finally found the issue after he replaced the brand new fuel pump about a grand later, his was a volume issue, he fixed the pressure and leaking carb with the regulator long ago.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-22-2010 at 2:37pm
I have not wasted any money, beside a little extra gas.

The original marine fuel pump didn't produce enough psi. I threw on a newer holley automotive fuel pump I had laying around for testing purposes, and then I bought the new correct marine pump from DIM.

I'll try the regulator next, as that is the only way to turn down the psi. I need to bend a new fuel line up anyway, I might as well throw a regulator on it at that point.

-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: July-22-2010 at 9:13pm
message edited:

let's see how you do today and then we'll start checking that pressure regulator/volume thing.



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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-22-2010 at 10:55pm
I didn't get anywhere today. Tornado waarnings and crazy rain.

I actually had to hang out in the basement admiring my coral reef tank to wait out the tornadic storms.

We are all good though.

Tomorrow I will work on the boat again.

-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-22-2010 at 10:59pm
Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

Tornado waarnings and crazy rain.

I actually had to hang out in the basement

We are all good though.

Cedarburg or Tomahawk? Nothing really through 3L's today!!

-------------
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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: July-23-2010 at 12:08am
Pete, how much longer or wider (I.D.) would the fuel hose need to be in order to drop some pressure from the pump to the carb?

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-23-2010 at 9:11am
Originally posted by Luchog Luchog wrote:

Pete, how much longer or wider (I.D.) would the fuel hose need to be in order to drop some pressure from the pump to the carb?

Luciano,
The I.D. would need to be smaller and the length needed would be quite long. There's not much flow so there's not much restriction. Even a 1/16" I.D. wouldn't restrict it much. Plus, restriction would be constant at different flows. It's why regulators are used. They adjust to different flows.

-------------
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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-23-2010 at 2:38pm
Cedarburg , Pete.

I know there were some good storms up north too, but nothing tornadic apparently.

-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-24-2010 at 1:26am
Well, I took her to the lake today. It idled great in gear, and unfortunately due to all the rain we have received in the past week, no wake speed was all that was permitted on the lake today and for a short amount of time until the level goes down.
So, after about 10 laps around the lake, and a couple beers, I attempted to get it a little above just engaged in forward speed and it died. All 3 times it died, so I think I need to adjust the accelerator pump. I will look up exactly how to do that. It doesn't die on the trailer, but then again there is no load when not in gear, and not in the water.




-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: July-24-2010 at 8:22am
disengage the throttle cable.
-throttle wide open
-accelerator pump lever fully engaged
-gap between accelerator pump lever and throttle bracket accelerator pump actuating screw should measure 0.15''.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: July-24-2010 at 10:08am
Luchog
gap between accelerator pump lever and throttle bracket accelerator pump actuating screw should measure 0.15

I think you mean .010 inch, not more than 1/8 inch ?

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- waterdog -

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique



Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: July-24-2010 at 1:11pm
Originally posted by Waterdog Waterdog wrote:

Luchog
gap between accelerator pump lever and throttle bracket accelerator pump actuating screw should measure 0.15

I think you mean .010 inch, not more than 1/8 inch ?


your absolutely right, sorry.

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-24-2010 at 1:29pm
Thanks guys!!!!

I will adjust it today:) I don't know when I will be able to test it out on the lake, but once it's adjusted, it should be good to go.

One odd thing I have noticed. The fuel pressure has come down to 5 psi on this new fuel water separator filter. It was at 8-8.5psi when first installed. I put a little over 2 hours of run time on it yesterday. The last one I had on lasted only a week or so and went from the 8-8.5 psi down to 2 psi after about an hour of run time.   
I have the old filter, but without cutting it open, I can assume it was filled with debris. Hopefully this new filter does not get any more plugged, because at least that's one way to regulate pressure, huh?

I'm thinking of adding a clear in line filter before the fuel water separator so I can see when or if the filter is getting clogged. Also, the replacement elements for those are much less $$ than the spin on separator filters.

-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-26-2010 at 8:59pm
Originally posted by Luchog Luchog wrote:

disengage the throttle cable.
-throttle wide open
-accelerator pump lever fully engaged
-gap between accelerator pump lever and throttle bracket accelerator pump actuating screw should measure 0.15''.


Ok, I have time to adjust this today.

So there should be a gap of .15 when the AP is fully engaged with the throttle all the way open.

What nozzle for the AP have you guys been using? I will see what nozzle I have on my carb. It sounds like the nozzle should be one of the smaller ones like 25-30.

-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-26-2010 at 11:36pm
Back from the boat.

The accelerator pump was way off. when the throttle was wide open, the arm had no play in it. I adjusted it to the .15 gap as per holley's youtube video, and per Luciano's instructions.

next, for the heck of it, I checked to see what nozzle the AP circuit has. It was a 25, so I think that is what it is supposed to be.

The fuel pressure is back to 8-8.5 psi, although the filter is the same one I just put on that was reading 5 psi while idling around the lake for a long time the other day.

Gas does not come out of the venturis at idle, but a little raw non atomized gas goes through when the throttle is pushed up from idle. It wants to stall if I don't open the throttle more quickly.

Here is the pic of where my float is adjusted to. There is not much free play before the float turns off the needle valve, but it can easily do 2500 rpm or more for a couple minutes, or until my tub of water runs out and the hose can't keep up.


Where is this "level" where the float is to be set at? The bottom when it is flipped upside down, is that supposed to be level with the flat side of the bowl?

I will order the fuel pressure reg from summit tonight, and it will get here soon and I can have it on by mid week, and ready for a test on Wednesday or Thursday.

I have 2 important questions though.

1. can I simply mount the regulator off the pump? I see some regulators say that they work best when mounted as close to the carb as possible, but that just won't make mounting it easy, and I would need to have 2 sections of brake line with double flare ends to make this work that way. Would it work ok if I mounted the regulator off the pump, and turned it down to say 5.5 psi or so?

2. What size of NPT do the brake lines for use as fuel lines have? The regulator is 3/8" NPT, and the new marine fuel pump I have is 1/4" NPT, just like the stock one. I plan on putting the fuel pressure gauge inline right after the regulator before the carb so I can monitor psi whenever. I am sure between napa, and the hardware store I can find the fittings to adapt and tee the line.



-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-27-2010 at 8:48pm
Luchog, what do you say about this?

My regulator will be here by Thursday at latest, maybe tomorrow, and I want to button it all up and test it out.

If it runs properly, I will be taking it up north for a 3 day before I start my new job on Monday.

-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: July-28-2010 at 12:56am
Bolt the regulator and see how you go. Maybe like Chris friend you get it done.
My take is you might, but you shouldnt need it, my opinion is that something else is off and the regulator may just hide another issue.



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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-28-2010 at 1:11am
You don't think the float is too low in my most recent pic?

-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-28-2010 at 11:44am
float being low isn't going to cause a flooding issue or the needle being blown out of the seat causing gas to spew into the carb's throttle body.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-28-2010 at 3:36pm
I didn't think it would, but the pressure issue I do believe is the issue.

There's a reason Holley says no more than 7-7.5 psi for fuel pressure.

I just don't like that the only mechanical pump that DIM sells can be anywhere from 6-8 psi as within acceptable spec when 99% of carbed boats have holleys and holley says 8 psi is too high.

It was actually reading 9 psi yesterday.

I feel really bad for the guy that was on CCF a couple weeks ago and bought the same new pump as I did, and assumed it was making the proper psi and he wondered why he had raw fuel dripping from the venturis. If you buy a new pump for the application, it should be the proper spec pump and shouldn't require a regulator.

Parts will be here Tomorrow.   



-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: August-01-2010 at 11:31pm
Ok, I got around to installing the regulator today. It's a Holley 4.5 psi- 9 adjustable reg. I had to go from the 1/4 NPT on the pump to the 3/8" NPT on the regulator, because almost all the regulators are 3/8" NPT. Anyway, I got it hooked up, with the psi gauge inline.

As it was set from the factory, the reg was at 6 psi.

The dripping resumed immediately, even though psi had gone down from as high as 9 psi to the 6 psi.

I then attempted to turn down the pressure to see if that would stop the dripping. Nope, no dice.

I took a short video of the dripping even at 4.5 psi.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/boat/?action=view¤t=P8010161.mp4">

So, what do you guys say now? The spin on filter is new, and the gas is fresh, and the tank looks clean. The pressure test to the power valve and the needle and seat passed on both. Also, I adjusted the gap for the Accelerator pump the other day. It was WAYYY off.

I do start my new job Tomorrow, so there is some good news at least.

Thanks,

Tom



-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: August-02-2010 at 1:23am
well, at least now you finally know you dont need the pressure regulator

When did this flooding issue start? How do you know it wasnt happening before you switched the fuel pump?

Do you still have the old pump around? can you install it back?
Dont you have another metering block to test?

good luck at the new job tomorrow!

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: August-02-2010 at 1:56am
Yeah, the regulator wasn't the issue, but I still feel that some people may have issues from DIM selling a pump that puts out a good amount more than what is supposed to be supplied by the only pump they sell for a PCM 351W.

Yes, I still have the Holley auto pump, and the weak stock PCM AC delco pump.

This issue started before I put the new DIM pump on however.

I don't think putting the newer holley pump on will help, but I could.

No, I have no extra metering block to try. Do these need to be replaced from time to time? I know if they get dirty, they might have issues with not delivering enough fuel, but it shouldn't make it get too much gas.


Also, after I shut the motor down, it spilled even more gas down the throat through that venturi until the pressure died off in the line. Now the boat is on a slight angle to the side of the carb that is dripping. That might explain the only side getting that much raw fuel is the port side.

Thanks Luciano. It's been a long time coming to get back into my profession since the lay off. This Buyer job really is a great one.


-------------
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: August-02-2010 at 2:22am
Did you rebuild or had this carb rebuilt recently?

I'd take the metering block out, leave it on carb cleaner for a few hours, shoot it with air on every hole. So on the iddle and transition slots on the carb body. Assemble back and try again.

How weak was the old PCM pump? what was the sympton back then?

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: August-02-2010 at 11:26pm
Yeah, the carb was rebuilt not that long ago by someone else that presumably knew what he was doing as he had a whole basement of holley parts and was very familiar with holleys on cars, but also had worked on a few on boats, specifically a couple inboard ski boats.. The metering block was cleaned in carb cleaner, along with the main body of the carb.

I will clean out and blow out the carb and metering block again, maybe stuff got clogged in it since then.

The original pump was 4psi, as far as the symptom, it didn't run beyond idle with the original pump making only 4 psi. I didn't have a gauge on the pump until recently. And the gap was way off on the accelerator pump from the rebuild date until the other day when I re set it properly. Considering that I can turn down the psi to 4.5 psi with my regulator, I don't think that putting the old original pump on would stop the raw gas out the venturi issue.



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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: August-02-2010 at 11:47pm
did the boat ever perform good after the carb rebuild?


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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: August-03-2010 at 12:06am
Tom, The carb was rebuilt by someone you think knows about Holleys but they didn't even set the Accel pump correctly. If I were you at this point I would pull that MF'R off and start with a fresh rebuild or throw it in the GD trash can and by a new one. Your wasting your time trying to adjust something that is obviously junk. Rebuild it again, I think the needle and seat is junk or there's debris keeping it from closing, end of story, what the heck else could it be.

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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: August-03-2010 at 12:16am
Alan, a few week ago I had one of my primary venturis drip at iddle and flood the engine. Got no response from that side's air mixture screw.

I think I cleaned, set float and assembled my carb like 4 times and no deal,
After some tinkering, I finally solved it putting some resin glue over the metering block plugs.

No more drips, the air mixture screw yet doesnt stop the engine when fully closed, just makes it stumble.

I dont think this is Tom's case, but just for the record, keep an eye on those plugs.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: August-03-2010 at 1:08am
i concur, this carb is a turd.
When the idle circuit in the metering block is boogared up, the first thing someone does is up the idle to make the engine run. The idle mix screws go mostly ineffective. the idle is upped till the engine runs off the transition slots instead if the idle mix ports. I've observed dripping from the main boosters on carbs in this condition.

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: August-03-2010 at 11:04pm
Interesting guys, Great info here.

So, is the metering block the same as an automotive one?

I might just say screw it and buy a whole new carb if a simple coule little tests don't make t work.

Since i am working again, at pretty much a dream job, I might just go the new carb route.

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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: August-03-2010 at 11:15pm
There are many different metering blocks, dont know what the part specific number is for the marine unit. Skidim seems to sell it at a reasonable price.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: August-04-2010 at 1:14am
Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

So, is the metering block the same as an automotive one?



How many weeks of summer left? anyone? anyone? Buhler?

Anything you do to this carb is turd polish.

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: August-04-2010 at 2:04am
You think like my Fiance. :)



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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: August-04-2010 at 2:24am
Simple solution check.   

With key off engine off.

Pull fuel line from carb.

Rig fuel line from small 1 cup funnel to carb.

Pour fuel carefully from container into funnel and fill to funnel.

Does carb leak / weap?

Sounds like a bum needle seat assy. If it weaps with no pump pressure then fix the obvious and repeat same test until it doesn't leak / Then circle back around and take another look at carb settings.

I'd like to think that most Holley needle and seats in good working oreder will hold stock pump pressure even if they test out around 8psi. How accurate is your test line gauge at low pressure?   

My fresh reman carb is weaping too ~ so needle seat / float repair is on my short list too.

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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.



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