Lift and 2nd Battery on 81 Nautique
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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=18653
Printed Date: November-21-2024 at 7:41pm
Topic: Lift and 2nd Battery on 81 Nautique
Posted By: WOFTAM
Subject: Lift and 2nd Battery on 81 Nautique
Date Posted: July-20-2010 at 1:09pm
Hello-
I have just purchased a 1981 Ski Nautique from the original owner. I have moved most of my water activities form Lake Michigan onto a small inland lake and the Ski Nautique fits the bill for my family much better than the EdgeWater that I am selling. I have a few questions regarding some things that I have experienced.
1. Does anyone have measurements for placing a 1981 SN on a lift? I thought I had it right until I tried again last night and did not clear the fins . This is a cantilever lift. I know that the pads need to be higher. While I am at it, I thought I might just as well make sure that they are placed on the strongest part of the hull. If anyone can help with this, I would appreciate it.
2. I would really like to install a second battery and a switch. The current battery is in a hole on the port side under the spotter seat. It is nestled very tightly inside what appears to be a stringer grid. I don't think it would be a good idea to enlarge this hole. Has anyone undertaken this project?
3. Retreival: Until I get the left set up, I am trailering it to the launch and pulling it at night. When pulling it out, I noticed that if I attach the chain to the D ring before pulling it out, there seems to be a LOT of load on that point on the hull. After pulling it out, I am unable to release it. All the trailer has is a beater bar and a chain. The guides had rusted and I am in the process of re-welding them. Last night, we were in and out of the water three times before I was happy with the way it sat on the trailer. I used a painter to attach the bow ring (not the lifting point) to the beater bar and then pulled the trailer out of the water. I then chained the boat to the trailer and took her home.
4. Anchoring: I assume the bow ring is it as opposed to the lifting point. Right?
Thanks!
Mike
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Replies:
Posted By: harddock
Date Posted: July-20-2010 at 2:25pm
My lift bunks are spread out about the same as my trailer bunks and are narrower at the bow end. As for the height I'd have to measure but I have plenty of clearance.
As for the trailer most CC trailers use a turn buckle. You can adjust the tension. I pull out and once on land tap the breakes and the boat slides foward a a tad, then I readjust the turnbuckle.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4487" rel="nofollow - 1998 Ski Nautique
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-20-2010 at 2:53pm
Mike,
Welcome to CCfan and congratulations on the boat.
I'd have to say most use bunks rather than the pads typically used for a I/O but both will work. You want support at the transom and then at the keel if using the pads. A 3 point support is best with the pads.
Unless you have a large audio system and use it for extended times without the engine running, a second battery isn't needed. Yes, there are several threads here on members enlarging their battery boxes or even locating a second battery elsewhere. Lots of work if it's truely not needed. On a 81, I'd be more concerned about the stringer condition at this time.
Regarding the loading of the trailer, yes it's a problem with the bow moving back away from the stop/bow eye as the boat sits down on the trailer. You may find it better not to put the trailer in so deep and do more power loading. However, some ramps are banning the practice due to the errosion it causes where the concrete ends. You may find this thread interesting. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13250&KW=keel+roller&PID=151959&title=adding-a-span-classhighlightkeel-span-span-classhighlightroller-span#151959 - Keel roller and winch
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=7753&KW=keel+roller&PN=1&title=trailer-winch-fixture-add-n - or this thread
The search feature here on site is a great tool. Lots of great info can be found. Once you get more familier with the site you'll see just how much information there actually is. Check out the reference section too.
What lake did you move to?
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54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: WOFTAM
Date Posted: July-23-2010 at 7:09pm
Thanks for the replies guys. I have moved to Long Lake in Portage Michigan.
Would one of you recommended a size and material for fabrication of bunkas that will run parallel to the keel. I could use some 4x6 landscape timbers but would rather use aluminum.
Thanks.
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Posted By: harddock
Date Posted: July-23-2010 at 7:12pm
Contact ShoreMaster or Floe and buy them already made covered with a no marring finish ready to install
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4487" rel="nofollow - 1998 Ski Nautique
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-23-2010 at 7:51pm
WOFTAM wrote:
Thanks for the replies guys. I have moved to Long Lake in Portage Michigan.
Would one of you recommended a size and material for fabrication of bunkas that will run parallel to the keel. I could use some 4x6 landscape timbers but would rather use aluminum.
Thanks. |
These are 5" aluminum "W" beams with a tapered 2x4 on top for the carpet.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: harddock
Date Posted: July-23-2010 at 8:29pm
The carpet idea has become frowned upon because when the lift is down and the boat driven off setiment and other abrasives cling to the carpet, but whatever works for you. The store bought bunks will include or at least have available all the mounting hardware as you mentioned needing to raise them off the crossbars. I am not sure what exactly is on these but it is some synthetic plastic type surface.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4487" rel="nofollow - 1998 Ski Nautique
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-23-2010 at 8:40pm
harddock wrote:
The carpet idea has become frowned upon because when the lift is down and the boat driven off setiment and other abrasives cling to the carpet, |
Kevin,
??? You've been reading too much catalog hype!! I put my wood boats on carpeted bunks and see no issues!! If you are truly having problems with abrasion, your lake must have lots of water quality issues??? However, from the looks of your posted pictures, you lake looks beautiful!!
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54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: harddock
Date Posted: July-24-2010 at 10:10am
Pete, Your right, but, The companies (Shoremaster, Floe etc) are offering the bunks with this material rather than carpet. It may be that it wears better. As a former dealer My info comes straight out of the boatlift sellers packet which is full of why my product is superior to yours propoganda.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4487" rel="nofollow - 1998 Ski Nautique
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