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what kind of oil?

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=18716
Printed Date: September-28-2024 at 12:53pm


Topic: what kind of oil?
Posted By: adiocassette
Subject: what kind of oil?
Date Posted: July-24-2010 at 8:26pm
i have a 78 ski nautique thats new (to me) i put new plugs and wires, new fuel filter, all new hoses and lines. I need to change the oil, and was wondering what kind of oil should i put in? and what oil filter do you guys recommend for a 351 windsor. thanks guys



Replies:
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-24-2010 at 9:03pm
Well, for oil you want an oil that has higher levels of ZDDP (zinc in it. A lot of guys use rotella diesel truck oil in their boats. Some other oils have good amounts of ZDDP in them too, but you certainly don't want an oil with low zinc in it. Oils with low zinc are not good for the motor.


http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_0907_zddp_zinc_additive_engine_oil/index.html - zddp oil use in ford engines

Now oil filters, don't buy a fram. Some like Wix, some like purolator, but there are many good ones to choose from. Frams are cheap filters internally.

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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-24-2010 at 9:45pm
Tom isn't exactly correct on the Rotella as all Rotella's are NOT high in ZDDP. Some have been reformulated for the new diesels!!

Napa gold is a very highly rated filter.

Tom,
Once again, double check your info before posting.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-25-2010 at 2:11am
I think you left out a comma Pete.   

Yes, some rotella oils are formulated differently, but the point of posting that link was for him to do some reading.

Notice how I left out the weight of oil?



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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: adiocassette
Date Posted: July-25-2010 at 3:17am
yes, thank you for not answering my question horkn. i was wondering what weight, brand, etc. people are using and are happy with since im kinda new to inboards. Im asking for opinions. i could read a million different types of pros and cons online, so i'll rephrase my question, what type of oil (weight and brand) are you using in your 351? thank you


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-25-2010 at 8:26am
Originally posted by adiocassette adiocassette wrote:

yes, thank you for not answering my question horkn. i was wondering what weight, brand, etc. people are using and are happy with since im kinda new to inboards. Im asking for opinions. i could read a million different types of pros and cons online, so i'll rephrase my question, what type of oil (weight and brand) are you using in your 351? thank you

As Tom mentioned, there are several threads on oils. Some with links to interesting facts on the ZDDP.

I'd say with members here, it's split 50/50 on ether Rotella straight 30 or Valvolene VR1 20-50. I'm running the VR1 20-50 in all my boats.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-25-2010 at 1:02pm
Adio, questions on oil and filter choice, are like religion and politics in that they can be touchy.

That's why I didn't say exactly, and left a link for you to decide:)



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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: thatdude596
Date Posted: July-25-2010 at 1:18pm
i run mobil 1 full syn 15-50 with motorcraft filter


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-25-2010 at 1:29pm
Originally posted by thatdude596 thatdude596 wrote:

i run mobil 1 full syn 15-50 with motorcraft filter

You'd better start reading!!! I have personally seen cam lobes ground to rounds from people using what they thought was good oil on flat tappet engines. Please, DO NOT get caught up with the marketing/advertising scam and the "bling" factor. Do your research first. I feel you have made a very poor choice.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: July-25-2010 at 4:03pm
FL-1A

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Tim D


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-25-2010 at 4:25pm
After doing some more searches about ZDDP and flat tappet motors, it appears that the new rotella diesel oils are around 1200 ppm of zddp, about 200 ppm les than what it used to have only a few months ago.

Similar stories of valvoline VR1 oil reducing ZDDP levels to less than ideal numbers have been reported as well by race engine builders.

Here is one guy's quote regarding the VR1 in high performance boats.

"Case in point, Valvoline Racing oil VR1, had 1300 parts per million of ZDDP in January of 2008 and the last I heard it was down to 900 parts per million just a few weeks ago. Be aware that most racing oils are designed for short term use before being changed out and may lose the additive package before the next oil change in your boat."

Castrol has several oils that meet the ZDDP requirements of older motors as well, probably more so than any other brand of oil.

As far as actual numbers, the motorcraft 15w-40 has like 1550 ppm of zddp, which is higher than even the old formula of rotella.


It appears while some oil makers might make it more difficult to find a proper oil for us, that other brands are making oils specifically for flat tappet motors.


Here is some more reading for those interested.....



http://www.ttalk.info/Zddp.htm - http://www.ttalk.info/Zddp.htm
http://healey.org/content/view/269/1/ - http://healey.org/content/view/269/1/
http://www.ohiomotorpool.oldmv.com/htm-files/hmv-restoration-tv.htm - http://www.ohiomotorpool.oldmv.com/htm-files/hmv-restoration-tv.htm
http://www.littlebritainmotorcompany.info/index.php?id=follow-up_to_camshaft_chronicles - http://www.littlebritainmotorcompany.info/index.php?id=follow-up_to_camshaft_chronicles
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/74002/race_vs_street_oil_and_lubricants_the_great_zinc_debate_continues.aspx - http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/74002/race_vs_street_oil_and_lubricants_the_great_zinc_debate_continues.aspx

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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-25-2010 at 6:04pm
Tom,
I'm glad to see you are researching before posting!! Good info!!

BTW, you can also use the CCfan search feature and find out it's already been discussed. However, you have dug up the "latest and greatest"!!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-25-2010 at 7:47pm
Yeah, some of the stuff that has been posted recently is old news and not accurate anymore.

A lot has changed since that ford article that keeps getting linked was written.
I hope people don't simply assume that their VR1 or rotella is the same formula as it used to be, because it is not anymore.
It used to be that the new oil was better in every respect than the old oil, and the new stuff can be used on old engines. Unfortunately this all changed in the last couple of years and using the newest oil formula may do more harm than good on these old tech motors.

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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-26-2010 at 3:17am
I have a PCM filter on mine. PCM probably doesn't make it, but I'd hope that the people that make the engine would choose a good filter to protect it.


Posted By: skyway2k
Date Posted: July-26-2010 at 8:56am
Very good discussion here. I just bought a 91 SN about a month ago, and the seller told me that he always changed the oil each year with Mobil 1 Synthetic oil. I'm not sure what weight he used, he didn't say. However, I do have some experience with building racing engines (Chevy's ... real engines... :-p )with a freind with decades of experience. We have seen guys' flat tappet cam lobes wiped out as well on break in by using Walmart or Dollar General cheap oil because of the dropping of zinc in oils these days.

What are your opinions on my boat having synthetic Mobil 1 in there right now? Supposedly he put this oil in each year for years and years. I'm driving back home from Maine next weekend to use it and I'm wondering if I should be freaking out about it now that I've read these Ford engines are sensitive to the zinc in the oil.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5240&sort=&pagenum=1 - '91 Ski Nautique


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-26-2010 at 11:06am
Originally posted by skyway2k skyway2k wrote:

What are your opinions on my boat having synthetic Mobil 1 in there right now?

Personally, not knowing specifically which M1 is in there now would scare me. The 15w50 has a ton of zinc and would be just fine- but the regular blends have much less. Might want to try and find out what exactly it is that youve got... or switch it out for peace of mind.

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Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: July-26-2010 at 1:41pm
I've been doing oil analysis on my stuff by spectrometer the at the last oil change new Rotella 15/40 had 1246 ppm zink.
Can't measure phospherous (we don't have the right atomic emission instrument) If you take a 2oz. hot mid-stream sample, and send it to me I can run it in 30 sec.

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- waterdog -

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique



Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: July-26-2010 at 2:22pm
Can you buy ZDDP as an additive?

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Tim D


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-26-2010 at 2:45pm
Originally posted by Tim D Tim D wrote:

Can you buy ZDDP as an additive?


Sure you can.

ZDDP plus is one of the ones that seems to be pretty prevalent if you search the internet for info on ZDDP.

I bet autozone, advance and all those have some ZDDP additive for sale.

As an additive to oil that may be lacking ZDDP, it will work, but is more expensive than simply buying an oil with good amounts of ZDDP in it to start with.

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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-26-2010 at 2:54pm
Skyway, what exact Mobil 1 oil was used? Some formulas of mobil 1 were good to use even in wet clutch motorcycles.

Basically, if the container has the shield on the back with the "energy conserving" label in it, it won't be good for our motors. Pete, for wet clutch bikes, this is pretty much the rule as well.

Waterdog, you have access to the equipment to do the analysis? Do you work for Blackstone or whatever that place is called?

In any case, I am very interested.

From all the articles I read, even more than I posted, the one synthetic oil that has high amounts of ZDDP was redline brand.

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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: July-26-2010 at 3:23pm

I'm now the back-up guy in our oil lab we analysis oil for wear metals and water.(at one time it was my full time job) We use a spectrometer on aircraft engine and transmission oils. I work for The United States Marine Corps as a silly servant.

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- waterdog -

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique



Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: July-26-2010 at 8:15pm
Went to Wal-mart, STP has ZDDP on the front label, got a bottle to try.

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Tim D


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-26-2010 at 9:25pm
Originally posted by Tim D Tim D wrote:

Went to Wal-mart, STP has ZDDP on the front label, got a bottle to try.

Tim,
It's interesting you mentioned this. When I first brought up ZDDP to our oil supplier several years ago, the very first thing he mentioned was "STP". Evidently, the zinc and phosphorous has been in that formula since day one. They picked up the fact that powdered zinc added to oils "plating" out the wear surfaces from the very very early oil benders. Also of interest in the metal stamping business, it was common with deep draw stamping problems way back for you to run down to the auto supply and get a couple cans of STP. Mix it up in the lube and the problems went away!!! You may have missed it in earlier threads so I'll mention it again. We can run galvanized or electro galvanized dry through our dies. No lube needed and when you open up the dies you see where the zinc off the galvanized has coated all the shear and form points. very low coefficient of friction and never any galling.

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64 X55 Dunphy

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<


Posted By: thatdude596
Date Posted: July-27-2010 at 12:26am
i run mobil 1 in everything i have. car truck boat and my motorcycle i sold a few months. have been for years, zero problems and i drive them all hard with many many miles. may be im lucky, but i will stick to whats lucky for me


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-27-2010 at 12:34am
What kind of bike? And what mobil 1 were you using?

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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-27-2010 at 12:52am
I'm by far an expert on these motors but as we were discussing my cam (in my rebuilt/slightly built-up motor) I pulled the spec sheet from Cam Research and at the bottom it states...

(USE VALVOLINE 20-50 RACING OIL ONLY)

so take it for what thats worth.


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-27-2010 at 12:55am
Gun Driver, I wonder if cam research is aware that Valvoline has reformulated their VR oils recently and part of that apparently is lowering of the ZDDP levels. I would love to see what new VR oil has for ZDDP levels.

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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: skyway2k
Date Posted: July-27-2010 at 1:00am
This is good information to have. I have quite a few cases left of the Valvoline VR1 20W50 racing oil from back in about 2004 from a Valvoline sponsorship on my circle track race car... sounds like it will be a good oil to use.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5240&sort=&pagenum=1 - '91 Ski Nautique


Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-27-2010 at 12:08pm
Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

Gun Driver, I wonder if cam research is aware that Valvoline has reformulated their VR oils recently and part of that apparently is lowering of the ZDDP levels. I would love to see what new VR oil has for ZDDP levels.


I would imagine he does.   


Posted By: thatdude596
Date Posted: July-27-2010 at 10:28pm
Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

What kind of bike? And what mobil 1 were you using?


2004 gsxr 750. many many people i know who race and ride track& street run it. we ran the full syn 15w-40


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: August-01-2010 at 9:14pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


I'd say with members here, it's split 50/50 on ether Rotella straight 30 or Valvolene VR1 20-50. I'm running the VR1 20-50 in all my boats.


I am ready to fill up my 302. The decal reads to use 10W 30 Premium motor oil. Are the above the 2 oils to choose from? IS that because of the additives in these oils or because of the age and type of use of the engine? After reading some old posts and this one I am still confused.

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: August-01-2010 at 9:35pm
Just do not put in automotive 10W-30, it has the least of what you need.

Straight 30 Rotella or Delo. I'm not a fan of multi-vis, but pete's recommendation of Vr1 20-50 is sound, especially if your baby deserves the best.

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: August-01-2010 at 10:44pm
As of earlier this year, Mobil 1 20w50 has ZDDP, it's the only grade of Mobil 1 with enough ZDDP. I get it at Wally World with a Motorcraft filter and costs a little less than the VR1 where I am.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-01-2010 at 10:54pm
Keegan,
Keep in mind that decal on the engine is real OLD!! Stick with the straight Rotella or the VR1 and you're ok. The plate on my my 54 says to use only Havolene straight 30 . It BTW was the best back then!!!

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Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: August-02-2010 at 12:01am
Thanks Don and Pete. I understand the additive properties and their benefit. Is the heavier weight used because it stays in between the engine parts longer before draining back into the pan? Provides a thicker barrier between parts while in motion? I am not questioning the collective wisdom just asking questions like my 9 year old.

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: August-02-2010 at 1:32am
I just kinda fell into the 20w50 myself. I've been using Mobil 1 in most everything for about 20 years and that was as close as I could get the numbers to what my last boat called for.   I didn't realize that 15w40 is used in diesels so I was always looking in the gas motor section for oil. Turns out I was doing the right thing, just didn't know it for the first 5 years or so.

I'm sure Pete will have a much better thought out reason as to why, I'm intrested to hear it myself.


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: August-02-2010 at 2:02am
The main reason the heavier weight is used is because it is made for flat tappet engines. Newer formulas of oil that have the "energy conserving" seal on it typically lack ZDDP and are made for newer tech roller cam OHV or OHC motors.

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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-02-2010 at 12:51pm
I'm using the Shell Rotella 15-40.

The first oil change of the season I used a little bottle of Crane Cams, cam break in oil to get the extra zddp.

This time I tried a 15 ounce bottle of STP oil additive, on top of the Shell Rotella, it said ZDDP right on the front. Man, that stuff was thick though, it took a loonnggg time to pour it all in. Is there such a thing as too thick?


Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: August-02-2010 at 3:32pm
i usually run VR1 20W-50 but accitentally used VR1 SAE 50 when I changed the oil on saturday ...i think she may be a little hard to start come october...

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As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-02-2010 at 3:38pm
no need for the STP oil treatment you really should change that out before it gets too cold otherwise it's going to have a real tough time turnng over.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-02-2010 at 3:56pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

no need for the STP oil treatment you really should change that out before it gets too cold otherwise it's going to have a real tough time turnng over.


So, just the Shell Rotella 15-40 is good on it's own, or should I use a different additive?


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-02-2010 at 4:15pm
no additives required unless it's a brand new reman motor and it needs broke in.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-02-2010 at 4:32pm
Ok, thanks for the advice. Sounds like there's no sense in over complicating it then.


Posted By: daddyo
Date Posted: August-02-2010 at 9:16pm
Not to confuse things, but it's the rotella straight weights that they tout for flat-tappet motors. I don't think the multi-vis ever had the higher zddp. Whether or not the rotella 30 wt still has enough zddp is another issue. Shell's website no longer seems to have this info. That concerns me. Especially when you consider they changed their packaging last year and now call it "T1". Did they reduce the zddp? The VR1 is listed at .14(1400ppm?) on their website and Mobil 1 15-50 is listed at 1300 zinc(zddp?). The VR1 is racing oil and the Mobil 1 15-50, according to them, can be used for racing. Mobil now has racing 0-30wt with 1850 zinc, but that's listed at over $90.00 for 6qts. Looks like we'll all be relegated to racing oils in the not too distant future. Horkn's numbers on motorcraft and maybe castrol make them seem a viable alternative, but I couldn't find specific numbers on those websites. Of course, the question i've never seen answered is how much zddp is enough for a 351w...


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: August-02-2010 at 11:14pm
Originally posted by daddyo daddyo wrote:

Not to confuse things, but it's the rotella straight weights that they tout for flat-tappet motors. I don't think the multi-vis ever had the higher zddp. Whether or not the rotella 30 wt still has enough zddp is another issue. Shell's website no longer seems to have this info. That concerns me. Especially when you consider they changed their packaging last year and now call it "T1". Did they reduce the zddp? The VR1 is listed at .14(1400ppm?) on their website and Mobil 1 15-50 is listed at 1300 zinc(zddp?). The VR1 is racing oil and the Mobil 1 15-50, according to them, can be used for racing. Mobil now has racing 0-30wt with 1850 zinc, but that's listed at over $90.00 for 6qts. Looks like we'll all be relegated to racing oils in the not too distant future. Horkn's numbers on motorcraft and maybe castrol make them seem a viable alternative, but I couldn't find specific numbers on those websites. Of course, the question i've never seen answered is how much zddp is enough for a 351w...


No, you are not confusing things at all. if anything you are clarifying things.    Not all rotella grades are good enough for even broken in motors. The formulas have changed, and   only straight weights of that oil are possibly OK. We need a new oil zinc level from the new straight weight rotellas as we are not 100% certain those have enough ZDDP in them.

Several Castrol oils have the proper amounts, STP has formulas with ZDDP apparently in them now too. Valvoline VR1's now might not have enough ZDDP. Typically you are better off with straight weights and oils that don't have the "energy conserving" seal on them versus any oil that is say 5 or 10w 30.

Basically these new formulas should have everyone thinking about the oil they use. What used to be good for ZDDP levels is not positively good enough anymore.

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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: Rasir2005
Date Posted: August-04-2010 at 12:34pm
I use synthetic oil in everything I own from my cars to my motorcycle.
They are best all the way around for any engine. They cost more upfront but they last twice as long. Mobile one is the best. I run a 5w-30wt in my vehicles and a 20-50wt in my Harley. Synthetics dont burn so you wont get carbon deposits inside your motor. They handle heat better and will actually heal leaking seals. I use Fram filters on my motors and have never had a problem with them. Just change it everythime you change your oil. Good luck, Ray.


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-04-2010 at 2:05pm
Originally posted by Rasir2005 Rasir2005 wrote:

I use synthetic oil in everything I own
Mobile one is the best
I use Fram filters on my motors

Im sorry, but it seems as though youre easily swayed by marketing hype. Synthetic has its benefits, no doubt- but to say they should be used across the board in everything with no respect to other important factors (zinc levels when installed in flat tappet motors, etc) is just bad advice. M1 is good stuff, but there are a lot of other synthetics out there that are as good or better, and some of them cost less. For the amount of hours these boats typically see, its just not necessary- and can be downright harmful if the wrong one is chosen. Regardless of whether or not youve had a problem, Fram filters are junk. Do a little research or disect one and find out for yourself.

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Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: August-04-2010 at 2:36pm
I went with Pete's choice of Valvoline VR1 20W-50. My mechanic is firing it up as I am writing this. Water test tonight!!!!!!!!!!

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-04-2010 at 2:37pm
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html - Oil filter study

Interesting the "avoid" filters are all Frams!!! http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html - oil filter overview

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Rasir2005
Date Posted: August-04-2010 at 7:08pm
Thanks for the info on the oil filter study it was a real eye opener.


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: August-04-2010 at 7:25pm
about the filter study it´s from 1999..is it possible Fram improved their quality in this last 11 years??? or maybe they become even more crappy

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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-04-2010 at 8:07pm
Originally posted by kapla kapla wrote:

about the filter study it´s from 1999..is it possible Fram improved their quality in this last 11 years??? or maybe they become even more crappy

Everything has gone downhill!! I doubt Fram did anything except throw more money into their advertising!!

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: August-05-2010 at 2:01am
just wondering...in the corvette forum I post people also make sure you stay away from Fram filters

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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: August-05-2010 at 3:07am
If you saw some of the failures of fram oil filters from motorcycle forums then you would steer clear of frams entirely.

Just the thought of oil leaking before the rear tire while at any speed makes me cringe.

I've been using regular Purolators or the PureOnes, and I've never had a reason to switch. The study Pete linked to didn't seem to have an issue with either as well.

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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
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Posted By: Rasir2005
Date Posted: August-05-2010 at 12:38pm
I guess I shouldnt have generalized my oil filter choice.
I only run a Harley-Davidson filter on my bike, Motorcraft on my boat, and use to run Fram on my cars till this weeks eye opener. I will do some research on my boat oil chioces before my next boat oil change.
Thanks, Rasir.


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-05-2010 at 1:11pm
The Motorcraft filter is a good one. I use this, as well as the Wix (1515 for the Fords). Napa rebrands the Wix as their own (51515). I have used Purolators as well if I cant get to Napa.

I have read that the M1 15w50 still has a lot of zinc, so that may be an acceptable choice. There are several very good conventional oils (Valvoline VR1, etc) that many here use. I use the VR1 20w50 in all of my boats.

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Posted By: dochockey
Date Posted: August-09-2010 at 6:17pm
I wish I had found you guys a long time ago? I've always used the Motorcraft filter thats what it had since day one but have changed oils over the years I switched to synthetic a few years ago castrol but never paid attention to the levels of zinc etc I have under 600 hours on my 89. so is it good to switch back after using synthetic?

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1989 Teal Ski Nautique
1967 Mustang
Harris Float
Sunfish


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: August-09-2010 at 7:53pm
Originally posted by Keeganino Keeganino wrote:

I went with Pete's choice of Valvoline VR1 20W-50. My mechanic is firing it up as I am writing this. Water test tonight!!!!!!!!!!


Well at least I "had a dream" that one day my little red boat would purr like a kitten and roar like a lion. I would have rather had the oil leaks than go through the nightmare I am suspended in.   

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-09-2010 at 8:01pm
Keegan,
Look on the bright side. That "dream" is becoming reality! Now, to rationalize somewhat on what you've been through, Just consider it a educational experience.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: August-09-2010 at 8:04pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Keegan,
Look on the bright side. That "dream" is becoming reality! Now, to rationalize somewhat on what you've been through, Just consider it a educational experience.


The thing so far has cost me about as much as a tech degree in mechanics. I am probably getting a better education though!

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: August-09-2010 at 8:06pm
You are the man Pete! Its all getting comical- thanks for keeping the mood light!

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier



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