What next? STILL not running right?
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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=19000
Printed Date: October-05-2024 at 6:30pm
Topic: What next? STILL not running right?
Posted By: 62 wood
Subject: What next? STILL not running right?
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 3:04am
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I have been working on trying to get my 64 Interceptor (Ford 170ci) running right and am running out of options. The motor starts and runs great at idle. It will rev up to redline with NO load. When I try to get the boat to plane, it pretty much falls flat on its face, around 2200rpm....like its running out of fuel. After the engine is warm, all you have to do is "bump" the key and it fires right off.
To bring you up to speed.... I rebuilt a "modern", 1978 head from a 200 six banger earlier this spring. The head was mildly ported and milled .060, to bring it back to the specs of original 170 head. Doing this I'm running around 8.5:1 compression.the heads are CC'ing around 50 1/2...the original head had 52cc chambers. I also had to make a new "adapter elbow" to mount the Carter YH sidedraft carb. This adapter has a 1 3/4" I.S. dia. (this matches the new head's carb bore size) The original El was only 1 3/8" at the intake. To date heres some of what I've tried.. Rebuilt Carb. Rebuilt mechanical fuel pump. All new fuel lines. Added spin on type fuel filter. Replaced Mallory dizzy from another motor. New points, cap, condenser, rotor. Changed ignition coil (from another motor) New steel exhaust pipes. Motor idles with around 18" of vacuum. Set timing at 10BTDC per manual(as well as 10 to 15 more/less each way) Dont know total advance, but with light it moves when throttle is cracked. (Looking for someone with an old Sun machine to spin it up). Tonight I ran an electric fuel pump "plumbed" into a 5 gal gas can and running directly to the carb, completely eliminating the boats fuel system ...still no go. Per Boat Dr, I am ready to check cam timing... I am also going to change prop from a 12-13 back to a stock 12-12. Any other ideas what to try next? FWIW...here'sa pic of the motor with the new SS carb adapter elbow... http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2963005230103439384DxOWMc"> 
 ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Replies:
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 3:26am
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rebuild the flux capacitor ! JK Steve, sorry to hear she is still not running right! ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 9:39am
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Steve,
Billy and I have discussed the problem and he brought up the cam timing but that was before you had gotten the vac reading. I don't feel you'd be getting 18" with the cam off even by 1 tooth. However, you've done everything else!! Might as well take a look at it!! Have you ever run it with the 12 pitch prop? If so, what did you get out of it for WOT RPM then? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 10:56am
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Steve - This is the shop that worked on my Prestolite dizzy. FYI.
http://www.advanceddistributors.com/ ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 11:28am
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Steve, before dinking with the cam timing, I sure as heck would be verifying that youre getting all of the mechanical advance out of the dizzy that you should. A decent timing light with a dial would make this very easy. ------------- |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 12:02pm
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I would lean toward timing as well, when you had it bumped up to 15 did you see any improvement while under load? It sounds like it's advancing but is it enough, with the added intial you should seen a little more rpm or at worst some improvement early on as your coming up on rpm. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 12:12pm
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When Mark and I were out with Steve on GL, we did play with the distributor as well as the carb. Manually advancing the distributor did not increase the WOT RPM. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: The Lake
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 12:15pm
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Steve,
I of course have no mechanical advice, but in another month you'll have ice up there anyway and you won't wanna be on that river. But I'm hoping something works out for you. Chuck ------------- Walk on Water www.coldwater.me http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=775&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970 - 69 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Brktracer
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 12:40pm
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I'm leaning toward a carb problem or a vacuum leak (too lean in the midrange). It sounds to me like the enrichment circuit of the carb may not be working right.
You don't need a Sun machine to check the timing. Put a timing light on and see how far the mark is moving when you rev the engine. You can always calculate how far 20 degrees or so is from the zero mark and make another mark with a sharpie for reference. A dial back timing light is a necessity! That engine looks so sweet I went back for another look! Also, I saw something that can cause your problem. There is an open hole in the intake below the carb!!! Put a plug in it and retry!!! If this is the problem you owe me a beer! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3180 - 1976 Nautique |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 12:43pm
Pete, I have to kind of agree, but then again where else to look than the lower end? I think I am going to get a set of fresh sparkers. while out, I want to turn the engine 'back and forth' with a breaker bar, while watching the rotor to see if any 'rotational play'. Also think Im going to take valve cover off to visually check the cam lift. Also going to do a "wet-oil" compression check while plugs are out, probably a cylinder leak down test as well. As for the prop I ran a 12x12 at first but would never run over 3200r's or so... remember tho, with the head I replaced, we figured the motor was running less than 7:1 compression at the time. As for total timing, I really dont know. It does advance when I rev the motor, just dont know exactly how much. Wouldnt turning the dizzy manually, while under way, like we did at GL compensate for any timing discrepancies? (It looks like a dial back light purchase is in the near future...should have one anyway..) Chuck...your not too far off, if I do get into the bottom end, it's a winter project at this time.. btw, the river just opened from the flooding... of coarse No Wake for now... look out.... "pontoona time"! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
8122pbrainard wrote:Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 12:50pm
 ) BTW, I had tried two other carbs before breaking the bank for this one.------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Toigs325
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 12:54pm
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Make sure you aren't running fuel with ethanol in it. Most gas stations have 10% now and that was a big problem on all of my carburated engines. I know this is about as basic as you can get but it seems like you have done everything but buy a completely new crate engine...New plugs and wires are a good idea too, I didnt see any mention of that. ------------- 2003 Ski Nautique 196 SE 1966 Correct Craft Mustang |
Posted By: Brktracer
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 12:54pm
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So, the bottom end was not rebuilt? Does it have a timing chain or gears? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3180 - 1976 Nautique |
Posted By: Brktracer
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 12:57pm
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What is spark plug gap? Have you tried different dwell settings? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3180 - 1976 Nautique |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 1:01pm
not an issue all HS ethanol causing problem, it's been out for over 20 yrs all ready. If you've got an extremely old boat that is all gummed up and crap is in the tank you might have some issue, but this isn't the case with Steve's Boat. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 1:09pm
With you manually moving it and seeing no improvement then that eleminates the Distributor as the problem. So it's either over propped, not likely, or your not getting enough gas throught the carb. You have eleminated a gas pick-up issue but not the carb, while under power, spray carb cleaner, or gas through the carb's throat an see if the rpms pick up if it does then you have to tweek the carb, if it does nothing then your going to have to leave the beer cooler at the dock and lighten the load.  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 1:10pm
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FWIW, here is a pic that "UK Roger" took of the engine taken at GL...
. http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2038142180103439384SRXGQG"> 
The pcv valve is taped off because of the vent tube from the oil fill cap. Bottom end is NOT rebuilt...yet... it has a timing chain.. 10% E.fuel is all we can get ....been running it for 6 years.. Plug wires are solid cores ... about 2 years old...not many hours on them. Plug gap is set at 30 or 35 ..cant remember for sure.. these plugs are a year old... new ones will be in this weekend. Point gap is 24 per Interceptor manual.. no dwell specs in that manual.. Dwell is running around 37...what ford calls for. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 1:17pm
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Chris,
At the GL troubleshooting, we also squirted extra gas down the carb to see if it was a lack of fuel. Bogged out worse!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 1:31pm
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well we are back to prop then, unless the compression is down, the dwell seems high to me thought 30 was about right but if the book states 37 then who knows. Might double check all the intake bolts make sure your not sucking air anywhere, doubt you'll fine any loose since it idles fine, just a realy odd ball probelm.
heres a thought bypass the ballast resistor if it has one, this will give it a hotter spark, see if that changes anything. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Toigs325
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 1:46pm
I have a 2003 196 SE with a holley 4 barrel...it ran like crap for a couple months until we figured out that the fuel we were using had ethanol in it and the carb couldnt handle it. I have also heard that it can cause boiling and overheating. ------------- 2003 Ski Nautique 196 SE 1966 Correct Craft Mustang |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 2:01pm
no you finally got the water out of the gas tank and seperator and bought into a bunch of BS actually, I'll go out on a limb and bet you took it to a dealer and spent about a grand to find out your carb couldn't handle the gasoline blend. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 2:04pm
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Andrew,
I have to go with Chris on this ethanol issue. It's really a "shade tree" mechanics excuse for problems he can't fix. However, I do agree it can cause problem on older boats that have lots of crud built up in their tanks. It's solvency dissolves it and then it's on it's way to the engine. I run it in all my boats without issues. On my 54 I have the old style fuel pump with the sediment bowl. It's finally getting to the point where it running pretty clean but at first I was getting tons of crud out of the tank. My 64 has the same sediment bowl set up but nothing the last time I checked. That tank must have been clean from the start of the ethanol. No problems with rubber hoses so far ether. I feel the big reason you find non ethanol fuel out on the gas dock is because they make more money off it!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 2:05pm
The boat is running about 140 lbs cold compression with this head, up from about 130 with old head. Book calls for 160, altho manual states +/- 20 lbs, so at edge of low range. BTW, I did the comp. test..no plugs/ no carb/ cold motor. Intake is cast into the head.. no bolts.. as for gas tank, it was cleaned and a liner installed last year. . ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Toigs325
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 2:13pm
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no you finally got the water out of the gas tank and seperator and bought into a bunch of BS actually, I'll go out on a limb and bet you took it to a dealer and spent about a grand to find out your carb couldn't handle the gasoline blend. [/QUOTE]
No, more than that, haha. We drained the tank, rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel lines, fuel filter, and fuel pump...it still bogged out everyonce in a while when we throttled her up. We switched to Shell gasoline and it solved it...we must have gotten lucky. ------------- 2003 Ski Nautique 196 SE 1966 Correct Craft Mustang |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 2:17pm
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Steve check the voltage at the coil, but it's sounding like a new prop, you've been through it and checked about everything to check so there isn't much left but that. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 2:19pm
or stopped buying gasoline with water in it. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 2:48pm
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Run BP fuel for years.. (dont like the Shell owner in town.)
Like I say, there may be a little blow-by from the valve cover vent tube, we noticed this at GL.... I'm hoping to do a wet and dry compression test, as well as a cylinder leak down test when I get time. will also change back to 12x12 and new plugs in. after that...Lower end .... here I come...  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 3:00pm
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after all that is done and if you don't see any changes change the dwell get it closer to 30 and then retime it.
Does you ignition system use a ballast resistor? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 3:42pm
Chris.. yes it does have a ballast resistor. It was changed last year..I think it was a Chrysler one we used ... it had similar specs to what a Falcon used, if that means anything? I also thought the dwell was a bit high, I'm used to the SBC's 30 myself. The Interceptor manual has no reference to correct dwell, just point gap of .024. Like I say , the Ford book calls for the 6 banger to have 37 or 38 dwell, of coarse they arent using a Mallory dizzy. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 3:48pm
Sorry Steve, but I missed this earlier. Lets see if I understand this correctly... the 12x12 was stock? Or just what the boat came with when you bought it? Did you ever get the RPM's out of it that you wanted before you tinkered with the engine (resulting in lackluster performance)? Seems like if you couldnt turn the 12x12, then all the compression improvements in the world wouldnt be enough to pick up 1000 RPM, especially with a larger 12x13. Id go back to the 12x12 and see where youre at... with 170ci, I would think that would still be a pretty big wheel. Bruce was planning to use something smaller on his 100hp 170ci... do you have the same powerplant?
The 4bbl 302's use 12x13 or 12x14's. Being down 130+ ci on the same sized boat, a 12x9 or 12x10 may be a better starting point. ------------- |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 4:35pm
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Tim,
The boat had a 12x12 when I got it. It would never run over 3200 or so. Always contributed that to the wrong/1973 head that was on the engine when I bought the boat. (the 73 head had 62cc chambers original head had 52cc/plus original motor has steel shim head gasket, a Victor was used on the 73 head... thus the 7:1 comp.) I was messing with it a few years ago and tried a 12x13 that I had on the shelf. It would still pull low 3g area, which was ok for cruising we did. Last summer after one of our now "annual mid summer floods", I tagged that prop. I had another 12x13 on the shelf so I put it on, but it does not have any of the same characteristics of the first 13. Plus the engine issues started to appear at that time. Yep, same power as Bruce has. not sure if I have anything "smaller" than a 12x12 to try. will have to check that out. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Brktracer
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 6:08pm
OK, now I'm thoroughly confused. This was the original problem as stated. Now the boat will run 3,000+ rpm and the problem is it won't run higher rpm? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3180 - 1976 Nautique |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-11-2010 at 6:35pm
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Matt, that reference was to Tims questioning the 13 pitch prop, back at the end of the first page of this post.
If you notice I said : "I was messing with it a few years ago and tried a 12x13 that I had on the shelf. It would still pull low 3g area, which was ok for cruising we did." Back to the future... it will not run past 2200 today.. sorry for the confusion.. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-12-2010 at 12:48pm
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Looking for advice on what spark plugs to get for the boat.
It currently has Autolite 46's , their website shows 45's. The Inteceptor manual shows Champion F11Y, the Champion website shows F14Y. Suggestions? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-12-2010 at 2:07pm
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screw the champions they suck, 45's if you are geting new ones, but the 46's aren't going to hurt either. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: August-12-2010 at 8:39pm
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Steve, If you have to get at the timing chain, you're gonna get sick thinking about what that entails, so go that route last.
I'm running F-11s. I can't believe that engine was ever meant to turn a 12x12. I was running a cupped 12x11 and it wouldn't turn more than 3200+- and it would stall when I put it into reverse. I'm running a 12x8 now and turning 3800 and not stalling in reverse. I have been having intermitant fuel problems, but have cleaned the fuel pump bowl of all the sediment and removed the inline filter between the carb and fuel pump. It seems to be runningmuch better now. Check for vacuum leaks in your fuel line. I had a leak at the water seperator unit and it was causing intermitent problems. Where'd you get the SS fuel line? ------------- |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-13-2010 at 1:03am
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Bruce,
Your right... already been looking at that. With the flywheel forward setup, the trans and "rear" motor mount/adapter would have to come apart.... meaning you might as well pull the whole motor. If thats done, I can pretty well assure you the lower end would get a complete rebuild. Sounds like another winter project?
I did find a 12x10 in my "prop stash" tonight, so the next change will be the prop and new Autolite 45'sparkers. If the weather cools this weekend,I am planning on doing the wet and dry comp test. Then pull the rocker arm shaft off the head to do a cylinder leak down test. Also plan to check dizzy play.... If this dont work...she may become a corral reef! 
ohhh,the fuel line isnt SS, its just good ol 5/16" brake line. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-13-2010 at 2:05am
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Just courious Steve,what rpm is that 6 supposed to run? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-13-2010 at 2:12am
That info isnt in my manual. I think Petes manual says 4100 or 4200 WOT (He sent me the page...think its at work) ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: August-13-2010 at 2:53pm
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Steve, I believe it is supposed to turn 4400, but when ours is cranking 3800 it sounds fast enough to me.
I tried bending some 5/16 brake line this morning and was totally defeated and I even had the old fuel line to copy. I then stopped at a hydrolic hose assembly and supply place and they couldn't do anything for me. So it's off to NAPPA again for a couple more lines. Worst comes to worst I'll put the old line on which I've removed the inline filter and replaced it with some rubber hose, but it looks hokey as heck. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-13-2010 at 3:01pm
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Bruce,
What do you have for a tube bender? On that brake line you need a real good one. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: August-13-2010 at 3:05pm
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Pete, I bought a real nice kit at NAPPA with a good quality bender. It's the operator. You got to put the bends in the right places and going in the right direction. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-13-2010 at 3:30pm
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Bruce,
Got it now! I thought it was a actual bending problem. Yes, there is some "art" involved with getting the bends in the proper place. It may help to determine the bend radius and measure back from where you what the tube to end up. The bender should have a mark on it indicating where the bend actually begins. When you go back to get more tubing, get several pieces!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-14-2010 at 11:55am
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Steve,
You have got to check out the valve timing. Since it never did develop the revs, and you found non original parts, a PO has had that thing apart and possibly didn't get it back together correct. Billy and I have been talking again!! However, at this point I wouldn't be pulling it apart. Pulling the plugs to check the pistons positions and then the valve cover for the valves. A degree wheel will come in handy. Get the dial indicator out!!
I had at one time the schematic picture of valve timing/overlap but now can't find it!!  Well, it was for old flat head 6's anyway!! I went looking for some info on line and http://www.cdxetextbook.com/engines/comp/vlves/valvetimingdiagram.html - found this ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-14-2010 at 12:59pm
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I did the wet and dry compression test this morning. Dry, everything was running between 130 and 140. After squirting 30 wt oil in each cylinder, every cylinder picked up at least 20 lbs....one 30 lbs. Wet everything was running 150 to 160, with one pushing 170. The manual specs 160. Didnt get time to do a leak down test yet...not even sure I need to at this point? Sooooo, think its time to freshen up the bottom end? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-14-2010 at 1:11pm
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Hmmm, don't you have a 200 block you what to slip in there? The bottom end problem would explain all the blow by we saw!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 92ccc
Date Posted: August-14-2010 at 1:14pm
| did you check for good spark,shoul jump 1/4 inch and be nice and blue,not white or yellow,do not test with just a spark plug,igntion system is under more demand with compression,you could do a running compression test to verify valve timing,should be approx. half of cranking compression,this will also tell you the conditon of th cam shaft. |
Posted By: 92ccc
Date Posted: August-14-2010 at 1:26pm
| You said you tried sparaying with carb cleaneer and it did not improve? are you sure you did not spray too much,from the picture with the engine angle and float bowl design fuel may be sloshing to the rear of the carb on acceleration,float height would be critical |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-14-2010 at 2:29pm
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Tony,
We played with at least 4 different float heights the day Steve, Mark and I were out on GL. Plus, Steve has had several YH's on there including a brand new one set up by someone that really knows the YH. At this point I do not feel the lack of power?Rpm's is carb related. How familiar are you with the YH especially the duals set in the valley on the 60's Interceptors and Grays? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-14-2010 at 2:34pm
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Tony,
I have tried the float set everywhere from 1/2" to almost 3/4". I think the manual says 9/16". There is a baffle in the float bowl that should pretty much keep the fuel from sloshing. BTW..The accelerator pump is in the front, or high end of the bowl. When you talk about a running compression test.. are you using an engine analizer to short a cylinder out? Havent check the spark this summer....will check... Pete, Yeah that 200 is looking "more gooder" .....Billy still thinks it's cam timing... I do agree the motor sould still run on the 130. Going to do some more investigating there...either way, if it is off and I have to pull the motor, I'm pretty sure it's time to freshen the bottom end. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: August-14-2010 at 2:42pm
|
[QUOTE=62 wood] Yeah that 200 is looking "more gooder" .....
Workman.........That would be the cowards way out......... ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: 92ccc
Date Posted: August-14-2010 at 3:20pm
| check running compression with a standard compression gauge,leave the schroeder valve in the tester,start the engine and observe the compression,you can relieve the compression on the tester several times to get a good reading,you may ruin some scroeder valves in your tester if you need to check all cylinders,this is a great way to find broken/weak valve springs,worn camshafts or valves that do not seat properly when under mroaml operating conditons. I guess i wasn't wooried about the accelerator pump losing fuel, I thought the boat would not build rpms, I didnt hear anybody say it had a hesitation,definately check for weak spark,often over looked because thwe engin starts and runs,they make a great spark tester sold at automotive supply stores for this purpose,looks like a spark plug witn an alligator clip attached to the side,make sure you purchase the one for small engines not hei,it will have a small electrode in the middle like a spark plug,this tested is calibrated and will load the igntion system to test it propery,install it on each spark plug wire and run the engine,speed up the engione also while testing,this will test the igntions ability to produce hot spark as engine rpms increase,remenber a point style igntion system cannot change the dwell allowing the coil to charge for spark. |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-14-2010 at 3:43pm
Not the cowards way. Since the head (and about eveything else) has just been completely gone thru ....simple facts are... #1) IF I have to pull the motor to fix the cam timing situation. I think this is the time to freshen up the bottom end of a Forty Seven year old motor! #2) If #1 holds true....why not try to get 20% more cubes by trying to rebuild and use the 200? AND FINALY......... #3) If this was a Chevy ...it wouldnt have been a problem in the first place!  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-14-2010 at 3:51pm
|
Tony,
No comment on your knowledge on the YH?
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 92ccc
Date Posted: August-14-2010 at 4:29pm
| oh sorry,no experience with those at all, I guess what I am suggesting is to test each system completely to rule it out as the problem,when you test the igntion test everything,then rule it out,when you test the fuel system,test verything,then rule it out. Then go after engine mechanical, believe me after almost 25 years of repairing cars sometimes you have to guess. Sometimes when asking for help we get too many answers and our testing becomes very unsystematic and we need to start over with the basics and make sure we use accurate tests. I guess where I was going with the float level,is there enough fuel at the main jets when accelerating? A good way to check for lack of fuel would be with a propane enrichener hooked to the intake,you can give the engine a little more fuel with the hand held propane bottle to see if this helps,if it does then we need to test the fuel system thoroughly. |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-14-2010 at 4:50pm
|
Tony,
I pulled the primary coil wire and it has a crisp blue spark that jumps a good 3/8". The "YH" is alittle different animal....its designed not to squirt any fuel til there is engine vacuum....ie cranking the motor. Besides what we tried at Green Lake, I took it out the other night with a 5 gal gas can and an electric fuel pump I use around the shop - hooked directly to the carb. That eliminated all of the boat's fuel system....Same results. I did check the "free play" in the dizzy shaft while hand turning the motor back and forth. I'm guessing there was around 5 degrees of engine rotation before the dizzy shaft responded after changing engine rotation direction. Is that a little sloppy? Cam Timing Check..... coming up! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-14-2010 at 5:02pm
I see in your profile that you are a mechanic. Great!! Your comments are appreciated but limit them to areas you are knowledgeable about. I have some pretty good background on the Carter YH. Both on the Grays and my own 312 Y block Ford. Fill us in on your background. Any marine? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-14-2010 at 8:19pm
Ok ok your just going to have to give up. Don't you still have that brand new 350 Chevy marine engine thats looking for a home?  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-14-2010 at 8:36pm
Gary!!!   ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 92ccc
Date Posted: August-14-2010 at 10:33pm
| Sorry Pete I was not trying to be an expert on the yh carb, just giving suggestions, I have been an automotive technician for almost 25 years, I have owned my own business since 1997. I am ase certified master technician,Cadillac Gold technician and Chevrolet Master technician. I have owned boats since I was a kid,always fix my own stuff. I also had an Arctic Cat dealer ship selling and servicing atv's and snowmobiles for about 5 1/2 years, tough business. As far as comments go on areas I am knowledgable about, I think I posted some good ideas! approximately 5 deg back and forht rotation at the crankshaft before the rotor turns should not be to excessive, the general rule of thumb i one tooth off one cam gear is about 7 1/2 deg. |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-14-2010 at 11:38pm
|
Tony,
I do appreciate your suggestions, .(BTW Pete, Tony being a GM tech, probably agrees with Gary...and soon me?.... about installing my "crate" SBC Crusader engine thats been setting in my garage! )
You think the 5"ish" degrees of freeplay in the dizzy rotation is ok? Any thoughts of the cam timing being off? This thing revs off idle , in neutral, no problem.. I didnt get much time to start checking the cam timing. When I did crank #1 to TDC, the intake/exhaust valves didnt seem to move for a long time before and after TDC. I only got a chance to mess with it for a couple of minutes before having to leave for the afternoon. Anyone got suggestions/tips on checking that? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: August-15-2010 at 12:01am
|
Question Steve. What size fuel line between tank and pump?
3/8" = nevermind. 1/4" = replace with 3/8" AT |
Posted By: 92ccc
Date Posted: August-15-2010 at 12:23am
| I agree with pete if the cam timing was off you would not have that good of engine vacuum at idle,you would also have a poor idle with possible hard starting, it is hard diagnosing "over the telephone" your a$$ometer cannot get a feel for the engine. I do noit think 5 deg? is too much,not perfect but not too much,remember that is 5 deg at the crank also including play in cam and dist gear. one thing I thought of,we are all a$$uming to little fuel, maybe too much?? try to induce a small vacuum leak while driving(removed pcv) and see if this helps,then try adding fuel with propane enrichener slowly to see if this helps, one other question is it possible to have a restricted exhaust or undersized? Also if this was a low compression engine it will have shorter camshaft duration or it would have terrible low end power. |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-15-2010 at 12:35am
Al, I have a 3/8" rubber hose from the tank to a shutoff valve that is located about 2 feet before the mechanical feul pump. I have 5/16" steel line from valve to the pump and from the pump to the carb. It had 5/16" steel line all the way to the tank until this summer. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-15-2010 at 12:49am
You thinking someone put it together wrong or maybe it jumped a tooth? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-15-2010 at 12:53am
|
Tony,
The boat will start with a bump of the key after its been warmed up. You can rev and hold it at 3+Gs in Neutral. When crack the throttle the vacuum drops quickly to 3 or 4" then back up. when you let off the throttle at 3Gs, the vacuum loads to about 25", then back to the 17 or 18". After 3 carbs and changes of metering rods, jets, and float levels, coupled with using a 5 gal gas can and an electric fuel pump hooked right into the carb, I dont think fuel is the issue anymore. What do you think of the cold compression ratio ? btw, where you at in WI? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-15-2010 at 12:58am
Billy does...... I am questioning the variance of compression between a "dry" test and one with a few squirts of 30 wt oil.... it comes up a min. of 20 lbs wet. As Pete noted before, there was some blowby coming out the valve cover vent at GL. .... But on the other hand it should still run with 130. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 92ccc
Date Posted: August-15-2010 at 2:05am
| I would sure think it would run with that compression,does show you could use rings if the compression change that much with "a few squirts of oil" I live in Tomah Wi. and have a place in Eagle River also,where are you? |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-15-2010 at 4:38am
|
I live in NW IL. We have a daughter in the Milwaukee area.
92cc quotes.. does show you could use rings if the compression change that much with "a few squirts of oil"... That was my point earlier, if I have to pull the motor to correct an "internal" timing issue, I think it would be worth a lower end rebuild, regardless of what is causing this issue. Would be nice to know for sure what is causing this first tho... ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 4:12am
I took the plugs out yesterday to start looking at cam timing and run a compression test. Check out the wierd colors of them... they are white on one side and brown/tan on the other. Something to do with valve orientation?
Notice #3 is black on the one side... I turned it in this pic... 
What gives? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 9:47am
Tony, Your name sounds familier?? Do we know each other from up north? Were you on site a few years ago under a different screen name? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 10:14am
|
Steve - Have you tried using the old intake manifold elbow? Maybe it's possible your new elbow is causing the fuel to drop out of suspension. I have heard of this problem with highly polished intake ports - some turbulence is needed to keep the fuel/air mixture 'stirred up'.
Just a WAG. Good luck figuring this out. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 11:40am
|
looks like a ring or two is leaky and oil fouled a plug or two. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 11:46am
Chris, I saw the plugs first hand at GL. The picture quality isn't the best and a couple may look oil fouled but that's not the case. They are all quite clean on one side and the other side are brown. A couple are a darker brown but still only on one side. Strange!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 11:51am
|
no not really then if that is the case. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 92ccc
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 12:02pm
| Pete I don't think we have ever met, at least I don't recall meeting. Do you get to Eagle River often or stay in Three Lakes? |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 12:23pm
|
Steve, as I understand it, it ran well before you changed the head and the carb set up, it just didn't get up to the rpms you wanted. You were running a 12x13 or a 12x12. That boat with a V8 only would have run a 12x13 or maybe even a 12x12. I think anything over 12x10 on a new engine is probably too much for that 100hp engine and it was probably alright before the new head, just over propped. I think the problem lies somewhere in the upgrades you made and not the bottom end or the cam timing. This is a hobbiest/hacker opinion and I am no mechanic, but I wouldn't start going down the complicated road yet. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 12:28pm
Tony, Usually the only thing that gets me up there is if I need to go to Nelsons when Three Lakes Hardware doesn't have something or Napa! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 12:51pm
I agree entirely... rule out the easy stuff first. The 4bbl 302's would have come with the 12x14 Fed, but Ive seen 2 165hp 2bbl's, one 289/302 with a 12x13, and the other 260 with a 12x12. I would say that a 12x10 would be a good starting place for a 100hp 170ci motor. If it still has issues, look at the most recent upgrades first! ------------- |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 1:23pm
|
I have no doubt it is over propped. Last year the boat was running like cr@p most of the season. The boat has never ran over 3300 or so since Ive had it. It was propped with the 12x12 when I got it.... never thought that much about it.
We ran the 12x13 for almost two years with no big problems. It just wouldnt spin over 3Gs or so. That was never really an issue, as we only cruised at 2800 or so. Even then if I forced the throttle it just would not respond... but didnt actually fall down. I do have a 12x10 on the shelf I am going to try, as well as a fresh set of Autolite 45 sparkers, before the next outing. Question.... why would a rebuilt/good head, now w/aprox 8.5:1 comp, not be able to respond at least as well as the old junk head with 7:1 comp? again, if over propped wouldnt the engine just not have enough ponies to pull the upper R's" ... Why would that make it fall on its face if pushing the throttle much past half way? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Munday
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 1:30pm
|
Steve, read this whole post last night and feel yur pain.The only thing I could come up with,is throttle linkage opening past wot?If the cam was retarded it would run and idle fine but lack any high rpm power.
Looking forward to the real answer hope you find one! Bob ------------- If the only tool you have is a hammer,everything starts to look like a nail. |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 1:37pm
thanks for the consolation .. what really bugs me is this should be "Basic Engine 101" and here is this dang ford 6 banger ...kicking my butt!
...and yep, the throttle does open all the way. hoping to check cam timing some night this week.. . ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 1:41pm
Timmy re read the post again. Try hard not to make this a prop issue. Acme cannot fix all the problems in the real world......... These are the issues, that when resolved, add to our inventory of knowledge. Oh and by the way Timmy,this cannot be fixed with an Acme prop and a calculator.........Boat dr ps.....Gotta love an engineer , nothing is impossible for the man that has someone else do it for him........ ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 1:47pm
|
Just throwing this out there, since it hasn't been mentioned at all yet:
Is there anything on your boat at all that might cause excessive exhaust back pressure? I've seen cars with plugged up catalytic converters exhibit symptoms very similar to what your boat seems to be showing. It will start fine, rev with no load fine, but just not accelerate. |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 1:49pm
|
Billy, it was me, Bruce, the other guy here with a 100 hp Interceptor that brought up the prop issue. Mine is happy with a 12x8. Perhaps we should look into the specific gravity of the fuel?... ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 1:55pm
|
Doc, ever heard of the scientific method?
Steve changed 2 things at one time (prop and engine top end). Result = bad performance. The first thing I would do would be to go back to the old wheel and be sure that the problem is engine related. If that 12x13 prop is an unknown (ie, its performance never characterized), then how do we know it hasnt been repitched to 15" or something crazy? I sure as hell wouldnt be dinking with the cam timing until the easiest and most obvious stuff was checked first. My apologies for introducing a bit of logic to the discussion. Perhaps if your troubleshooting were better, he wouldnt be here asking the rest of us for advice? Regardless of troubleshooting, Bruce's datapoint indicates that both the 12x13 and 12x12 props are way too large for a 170ci 100hp motor. Makes perfect sense to me. ------------- |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 1:57pm
exhaust has been completely replaced from rubber hose to steel pipes... BTW...Billy still "owes" me on that bet!
...along with the new exhaust pipes, the aluminum exhaust manifold had been opend up, cleaned and extra casting flash removed. I port matched the head to the exhaust manifold...removing over a 1/4" from some of the head ports. so I dont think restriction is an issue. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 2:05pm
|
Billy and Tim, I DO appreciate ALL of your input into this PITA problem... Great thing about this site... most everyone has "been there" in some type of situation.
Tim, The prop I changed last year was from one 12x13 to another 12x13(damn river logs), And the second prop did have different characteristics. The engine started "acting up" earlier in the season last year with the 13 I had been running for the whole prior season. Like i said The 12x10 will be on for the next test. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 2:49pm
Reread the posts as stated before.With a little correct info , a logical solution is close at hand. The motor has never ran correctly since Steve has owned it. This was the reason for the Obviously too large a prop.The motor would only rev to 3000, add a large prop and we can use it as is. Not to correct the problem, but make the boat usable. If a 12x10 was installed , would that cure the stumble off idle? And just a note to you Tim, and my mechanical ability,you have become the see all and know all .Glad to be in the company of such a learned one as yourself.Thanx for sharing with this old man........ ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 2:56pm
|
wonder if two cylinders wires are crossed and not matched to the cam's order?
Jacking with a prop at the moment seems like a waiste of time to me. better head worse performance using the same prop tells me that it's not the prop that is the only issue. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 2:57pm
Doc, dont mention it. If the prop has been eliminated thats terrific- Steve's first post implied that a 12x13 (possibly unknown?) was swapped on at the same time as the new head, whereas he had been running a 12x12 previously. Sorry for the confusion. I clearly dont know the ins and outs of this engine nor its history well enough to comment beyond what I thought was an obvious thing to eliminate as a variable, and I did not mean to imply otherwise. Carry on. ------------- |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 3:16pm
|
You sound just like Obama with that comment Timmy.
"That was what I said, just not what I meant." I may be wrong , but the tool I have seen you use the most is a BUFFER at Green Lake.That requires a lot of trouble shooting ability don't it????? ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 3:38pm
Some more great Boat Dr. posts. Forget your meds again today, Billy? ------------- |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 3:41pm
|
Hey... I used a buffer at GL...
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 2:24pm
|
UPDATE....
last weekend changes... 1)changed prop from 12x12 to 12x10. 2)put new Autolite 45 spark plugs 3) made a 'reducer gasket' with a 1 3/8" hole to install below the SS adapter elbow I made. This was done to mimick the hole size of the original elbow adapter. 4) check fuel pressure..9psi RESULTS?? Went up to 3 grand...on plane....then fell on its face.. just like it did at 2200R's. I did find a couple of old 1bbl downdraft carbs. Hoping to try and jury-rig one of those to eliminate sidedraft and adapter el.. signed, getting old and tired. . ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 2:39pm
|
Steve, We ran ours this past weekend with the new solid fuel line. The tach is a little crazy as at times it reads 3800 at WOT and at other times it reads 4500 at WOT, but the engine sounds the same. With a 12x8 it turned in 31.7 MPH.
So your runs 3000 regardless of the prop that it is turning? That is strange. ------------- |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 2:44pm
|
It's almost like you have some kind of invisible governor restricting it.
Any chance you're running into a valve float issue? Not sure how you would even test for this as it would be compression loss at higher RPMs. I'm just thinking with the head swap, maybe the pushrods aren't following the same path anymore and maybe causing something in the valve-train to bind? |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 3:01pm
|
Brian,
I cant imagine valve float issues. the head has solid lifters and new valves and springs. One thing that did change a little is the rocker geometry...the head was milled .060 .. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 3:32pm
Just figured I'd throw that one out there, it does seem like a long shot. Just running low on stones to overturn. |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 4:35pm
|
Thanks for offering the input.. at this point anything is appreciated! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |