23' Fish Nautique Restoration Project
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=19112
Printed Date: November-21-2024 at 5:13am
Topic: 23' Fish Nautique Restoration Project
Posted By: jzarski
Subject: 23' Fish Nautique Restoration Project
Date Posted: August-19-2010 at 12:12pm
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Well I am a first time poster. My Name is John. It is a pleasure to meet all of you. I just started a restoration of a 1981 23' Fish Nautique. I know nothing about the boat so I am learning as I go and wanted to share all my findings with everyone here. So far I have the floor up and I am pulling all the foam put. you can follow the progress also on my blog
John http://jandsboatrestoration.blogspot.com - 23 Fish Nautique Resto I want to put underfloor saddle gas tanks in the boat but as I was pulling out the foam I noticed that Correct craft put stringers from bow to stern where I wanted to put it. What is your advice on tank location. Am I better putting it forward or more towards the stern. I don't care if I lose the infloor live well as I can put an above deck one in. Well I hope to get some advice from all you pros who know the boat. Thanks again for all the info I have already gained from this site. |
Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-19-2010 at 12:19pm
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I think many people would appreciate it if you were to document your rebuild here rather than follow a random link... I dont think anyone has done a detailed writeup on a Fish rebuild- I think it would be great to see.
As a starting point, I would poke around and look at the threads that document the Barefoot Nautique rebuilds. Those were slightly smaller (19') boats, but are v-hulls like your Fish- so there are definitely some similarities in how they were constructed. Lots of info here- hope you stick around. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-19-2010 at 12:29pm
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John,
Yes, welcome to CCfan. I agree with Tim it would be great if you could document the rebuild here. What are your thoughts with the tanks? More capacity? I sure wouldn't mess with the primary stringers but maybe the secondaries? Get us some pictures and we'll all take a look. You also need to consider the weight and what it would do to the handling/plaining of the hull. The only place I would consider saddle tanks would be on each side of the engine making the weight neutral with the hull. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-19-2010 at 1:05pm
I will document the rebuild here and on my blog. I have no problem with that. As far as tanks go.. I was thinking two 50 or 60 gallon saddles on each side of the bilge. The one issue is I guess you call them secondary stringers are in the way. I think once I get all the foam out I will know a little more. I will take the photos on my blog and post them here.
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-19-2010 at 1:14pm
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The v-hulls didnt have much of a secondary stringer really (assuming the Fish was the same as the BFN). Structural supports that run the length of the boat are stringers, supports that run perpendicular would be called ribs (short) or bulkheads (full width). (At least thats the terminology that I used.) The purpose of the secondary stringers in the v-hulls was really to shape the bilge. They were very thin (1/4-3/8") so I wouldnt really consider them to be structural. The ribs that go between the secondaries and the walls are pretty important though- they keep the v-hull in a vee shape. I didnt refoam and chose to add a lot more of them (spaced roughly at 1'). Even the factory spacing (~30" on the BFN) wouldnt leave a lot of room below the floor from the engine back, though.
My buddy's 20' Shamrock has a removable well beneath the removable panel (behind the motor). That might be something to consider. Alternatively, maybe something in the center of the boat, forward of the engine compartment would work. ------------- |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-19-2010 at 2:32pm
| I know there is the main stringer that the motor mounts too. There is also another one that is on both sides of the bildge area or motor area what ever you want to call it. If you look at the photos with the foam all over the place you can kinda see that stringer I am talking about. Once I get the rest of the foam out I think I will have a better idea. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-19-2010 at 3:25pm
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John,
Well, you do have some work ahead of you! Keep digging!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-20-2010 at 1:43am
In that 3rd picture you posted,on a 20 foot Shamrock the tanks are mounted under the floor between the main stringer and the side of the boat on both sides holding 25 gallons each.My Dad had to replace them on his '77 he has now and had them made up in Florida. They sprung leaks due to the fact they were foamed in  and it spent it's early life not taken care of in salt water. Where does Correct Craft put them in?------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-20-2010 at 10:52am
| The tank was mounted in the rear of the boat, above the floor. I am not a fan of that so that is why I am trying to find a way to mount two saddle tanks like you are decribing in the Shamrock. I found a really cool produce called Prisma Composite. The company is located in my area so I am meeting with them today at 9am EST. They make composite stringers, hull stiffeners, bulk heads and a ton of other stuff. They just started a line of products designed to be installed on already build vessels. If I can have them make me a 1 inch hull stiffener I will remove the secondary stringer and replace it with that. That will give me the room to put the saddle tank in.. I will keep you all informed when I get back from the meeting. |
Posted By: Brktracer
Date Posted: August-20-2010 at 5:46pm
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How's your shoulder? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3180 - 1976 Nautique |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: August-20-2010 at 5:53pm
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Cool boat! I look forward to seeing the progress. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: August-20-2010 at 5:55pm
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What kind of motor drives this beast? ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-20-2010 at 6:40pm
Shoulder is better, Thanks for asking. I went to the Prisma Factory today and man is that a cool place. All composite stuff. I was amazed how cheap this stuff is. I will take some Pics of the samples they gave me and post them. I meet with the owner Scott and he explained all the ways I can redesign the boat. I think I may end up trashing the origanal deck and redesign my own with lots of storage. Keeganino I think I am staying stock with the motor. It came with a 351 Windsor. The only mod I might do to the motor is change it to a fresh water cooled. I picked up a new used 351 with raw water so it really depends on the budget if I add the fresh water system. |
Brktracer wrote:Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-20-2010 at 6:59pm
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Save your money on the fresh water cooling. My Dads Shamrock went 20 years on salt water before he sold it and never had trouble block wise. He was on his 3rd set of exhaust manifolds,which even with fresh water cooling,are cooled by what ever water your in.He did flush it out each and every time he used it and thats why he sold it. In his 80's, it was too much work to maintain it in the way he liked to. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: August-21-2010 at 11:18am
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Man, I hate digging foam.....
Cool project, looking forward to following this. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-21-2010 at 7:38pm
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Remaining Floor is up..
With the help of my buddy Shawn I was able to cut and pull up the front part of the deck. I got the fish box and the live well pulled out without damaging either one of them. Not sure if I will reuse either one of them or just use them as molds to make new ones. Either way they are in good shape. 
Now to the foam..... Man I can't believe how much foam Correct Craft put in this boat. There is so much wasted space. So far I have pull 6 60gal trash bags full of foam. Wish I weighted it all as I took it out. Trash went out today so they took the first 6 bags. I still have the whole front to empty and the left (port) side left. 
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Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 11:29am
Here is the new floor paln I am thinking of going with. What is everyones take on putting the gas tank forward of the motor area. There is a big emply space there that will allow me about 120gals of fuel. I think the saddle tanks are a no go as they would have to be the lengh of the boat in order to get the capicty I wanted.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 11:47am
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Since the fuel tank was originally aft under the aft deck, I feel as previously mentioned you will be throwing the bow to aft plaining balance off with that tank. It's going to ride bow heavy and plow. Especially with the water tank all the way forward!!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 11:54am
| Yeah I thought that but everyone tells me how bow light the boat was.... Wish I could call someone and get there take on it.. |
Posted By: Rglover
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 11:54am
| I agree with Pete on this. Since you will not have trim you will not be able to compensate for that additional weight in the bow. I am afraid that it would make it a really rough and wet ride offshore. |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 12:48pm
| So what are your suggestions? Would trim tabs help? or is it just better to make saddles? Saddles I think will be way to long for it to be practical |
Posted By: Rglover
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 12:51pm
| I don't think trim tabs would help. You can trim a bow down with trim tabs but not up generally speaking. I am afraid the tank is going to need to be in the back somewhere similar to where it was. |
Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 12:56pm
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Have had a lot of experiance with fish Nautiques.
Looked at your battle plan and putting the tank forward will not be a problem provided you have enough motor to push the hull. I would though install the fuel tank length wise between the main stringers rather than on top of the stringers. Have one custom built for the boat at around 40 gal. We have a fish that is stripped and getting ready to un-cap the deck and pull the liner. I am thinking of replacing my tank and installing saddle tanks on each side of the motor like a Shamrock. Also a BBC 454 along with a 1.23-1 Power plus transmission is going back in. ------------- Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise. 1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 12:57pm
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When you were over at the composite place, did you by chance talk to them about incorporating fuel tanks into the composite lay up? I know many boats used glass tanks before the advent of ethanol but resins have come a long way since then. Internal baffling inside saddle tanks could take the place of secondary stringers as well as port to starboard ribs.
You can always trim tab a bow down but you can't trim tab a bow up with weight forward!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 1:02pm
Do you think 40 Gals is enough??? I need at least a 200 mile range and I don't think 40 gals will give me that. Fl inboards I would love to chat with you about the layout I am wating to use. If possible email me your contact info or I will emai you mine. I plan on useing the stock 351 with a 1:1 trans. As for the glass tank, I never asked them. I will though he might have a suggestion. |
Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 1:07pm
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You can always trim tab a bow down but you can't trim tab a bow up with weight forward!!
Fish Nautiques are really bow light anyway and a lot of them I have run across have tabs on them. I have a set to put on mine along with Hynautic steering. ------------- Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise. 1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 1:08pm
John, Talk to Jodi. He would be a good one to get some first hand info from!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 1:09pm
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floridainboards at msn dot com ------------- Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise. 1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0 |
Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 1:19pm
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As for the glass tank, I never asked them. I will though he might have a suggestion.
Old school ideas!! Definatly would go with a aluminum tank or tanks! cruising speed is around 32-35 mph in that boat utilizing 12-15 gal per hour (est). 40 gal is about what came in them maybe closer to 60??? anyway if that is the type of range you are looking for then you would want closer to 80 gal capacity I think then you also might want to think about saddle tanks. or put one up front and retain the rear. ------------- Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise. 1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0 |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 6:22pm
Ok I reworked the floor plan.. Sat in the boat and measured a few things out. I think that saddle tanks can be done without having them the lenght of the boat. Any input is great.
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Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 7:29pm
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Their ya go, wow 100 gal cap, cool!
Tried to call but no answer. ------------- Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise. 1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0 |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 7:39pm
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when having two tanks..are they conected or run parallel? or they work as 2 diferent units..with 2 filler etc? how do you work the weight distribution? ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 7:43pm
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Interesting ideas here. I assume all of the concepts outlined would be below the floor? If so, will the tanks be structural? Will you be foaming them back in? Im just curious how you will be replacing the strength of all the ribs/bulkheads that you are cutting into or removing. ------------- |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 7:48pm
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Be careful with the material you use to make the tanks. I have heard some problems with ethanol and fiberglass tanks.
Tim ------------- |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 8:30pm
The way I have it planed is to have two seperate filters. each tank will be able to be shut off if needed. the two tanks will join after the filters into one line that will feed the motor. That was my idea.
The Tanks are being made out of Alum. I will build bulk heads forward and aft of the tank and fill the remaing empty area with foam. Most of the structure that I am removing is going back in, just in the way of composite instead of wood. Main stringer will be the exact same location and size. The secondary stringer is being lowered for Gas tank fitting reasons. It will be made out of carbon skinned composite. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 8:36pm
Glad to hear that you have given this some thought. I found that our v-hulled Barefoot Nautique oilcanned fairly significantly once the glass from the old stringers had been removed. We did not refoam, so we spaced our new structure much more closely (~12" between ribs instead of ~30") in order to keep the structure solid. I think the foam played a major role in keeping the hull shape in tact. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 9:54pm
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I recommend plenty of port to starboard baffles as well as one down the middle internal of the tanks so they become a structural support for the hull due to the removal of the secondary stringers.. Then careful foam injection under and and on all sides of the tank. A means of bolting the tanks into the stringer system must also be considered. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 11:31pm
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Dads '85 Shamrock was a 20 foot conwalk with a PCM 302 and 2 25 gallon tanks. Best cruising speed got 4 miles to the gallon.Both tanks fed into one Fram filter/water seperator with valves at the filter to select tank.The tanks on his '77 were just held in place with foam and the floor screwed down over them.The fill pipes are in the area of where your rod holders are in the gunnel with fiberglass covers over the fill and vent hoses,which I can get pic's of if you need. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-26-2010 at 12:32am
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JZ - If you need that kind of range, maybe you want to consider diesel power.
Not a popular option with ski boats but you have a whole different need. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-26-2010 at 1:09am
You know, I did look into that. One major problem, the cost is outrageous. You can find like a 5.9 cummins for 2000 but after you make it marine ready your in the 6000 range. Good friend has a Dusky that he put a diesel in and he loves it but he did complain about the cost. I think with 100 gals of fuel I will be able to do what I want. The real range issue is I want to be able to goto the Bahama's and fish for a weekend and know if the tank is full when I leave I will make it  Other then that all my fishing is inside 30 miles of the coast.
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Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-26-2010 at 1:11am
I think I like this idea better. Less stuff to worry about with one filter. Thanks Gary |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-26-2010 at 1:25pm
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Jzarski, I got your email but cant reply- you didnt include your email address in your message and you have it set to "private" in your profile. Just FYI!
Regarding the "oilcanning", Im referring to the deformation of the hull when pressure is applied to it. Kind of like the bottom of an older oil can. 
When we had our BFN stripped down to the bare hull, it would flex quite a bit under the weight of one person. Actually, when sitting on the trailer, it would flex under its own weight- to the point where we decided to support it better to keep the shape in tact as we rebuilt it. The ribs go a long ways towards keeping the v-hull in the proper shape, and the hull-foam-floor sandwich everywhere else keeps everything stiff and prevents deformation. Just make sure you dont decrease the rigidity of the structure with your new additions under the floor. Like I mentioned earlier, you may want to take a look at a few of the Barefoot Nautique rebuilds, as it appears the structure is pretty similar to the Fish. "The Grinch", "Hasbeenskier", "BuffaloBFN" and myself have all documented rebuilds of these boats- lots of pictures to look at. ------------- |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-26-2010 at 8:14pm
| So what do you suggest for supporting it in order to keep the shape? Can I doing one stringers at a time or will that cause more problems? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-26-2010 at 8:22pm
John, You need to start reading some of the very good threads on stringer replacement!  But, here's a recent thread on http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=19129&title=pic-request--boat-stands - home made boat stands
Ignore the metal ones. They are just stabilizing the trailer. It was a misunderstanding. BTW, I'm serious about you taking a look at the stringer threads. We don't want you to go off in a bad direction. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: August-27-2010 at 11:22am
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I think doing one stringer at a time will save you problems. I had to do one side at a time because of the layout, but it's the same principle-1 side holds the shape of the boat while the other is fixed, and the other way 'round.
Like Pete is saying, take full advantage of the lessons some us have learned along the way and of the good advice and tech tips. Use the advanced search feature and set 'post time' as 'any' and 'results' in 'topics'. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: KFD14
Date Posted: August-28-2010 at 3:06am
Welcome to the site, here is a little inspiration.
Good luck, post lots of pictures. ------------- %20http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4380" rel="nofollow - 83 2001 SN |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-28-2010 at 2:13pm
| KFD14, Is this your boat. If socan you email me some other pics. inside, bildge area and such?? |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-28-2010 at 2:26pm
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I forgot to post these here. I put them up on m blog, just forgot to do it here.
Well today with the help of a great friend Rob, Who must have lost 50lbs in sweat today, we got alot of the foam up. The bow section is done the bottom is done and we only have about 3 feet remaining on the starboard side. 
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Posted By: KFD14
Date Posted: August-28-2010 at 4:43pm
No sorry, it's not my boat. Your post made me interested in the Fish Nautique so I googled it and found these pictures. Cool boat! Have fun with the restoration. Here is another picture of the same boat. I thought you might find them inspiring.
 ------------- %20http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4380" rel="nofollow - 83 2001 SN |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-29-2010 at 8:10pm
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Foam War is over...
Today I got the rest of the foam up and some what cleaned out. There is still a few areas in the corners that I have to dig up. I also have to peel the foam off the side walls. I even had some time to cut a few of the front bulk heads. Almost made a big bobo when I was cutting the port front area, thought I was cutting the wall but I was cutting the bottom hull..... Thank god I realized and stoped. Well have to work bell to bell for the next few days so no work is gonna get done until Thursday.. 
Here is the link to my photo bucket gallery. I am posting all the photos here. There are more photos in the gallery then I am posting. http://s576.photobucket.com/albums/ss210/jzarski/23%20Fish%20Nautique/ |
Posted By: tuna_tugger
Date Posted: August-30-2010 at 3:54pm
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I am considering taking on the same project with my 1980 fish. I have a few questions. Do you plan on replacing the foam and the existing gas tank is about 75 gal. It just seams like a lot of work to make a new tank and relocate it for 25 gal. Do you have plans for the space where the old tank was? Keep the pictures comming they are great. You are answiring a lot of questions that has been running through my head with the pictures.
Thanks ------------- Don Liberman |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-30-2010 at 4:27pm
Hey Tuna_tugger, the tank thing was more of a design issue I had with the boat oppose to the amount of fuel. I did not like the 2 ft of fishing area that there is behind the leaning post in the boat. By removing the tank and putting it under the floor I now will be able to cut that back area out and have more fishing room. I plan on taking detail pictures of the rebuild once the tear down is done. I have a favor to ask of you. If you could email me some pics of your bildge/engine area. I have no clue what it looks like all put together. When I bought the boat it was not assembled so I am kinda scratching my head about where things go under there. Thanks, I hope we can both help each other. John |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: August-30-2010 at 4:37pm
From an engineering standpoint I would think that the "box" that is designed in there around the gas tank makes the boat very rigid. Just a thought. Tim ------------- |
Posted By: tuna_tugger
Date Posted: August-30-2010 at 5:04pm
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Ya I like the idea of some more fishing room and that would be a good place for the tank. Plus on my boat I have a 40 gal live well with tuna tubes on the swim platform so the boat sits a little low in the stern and when we are at rest and two guys are standing back there water tends to come in the scuppers. I would probibly put bait wells in the corners this would stiffen the transom and I could get rid of the swim platform. Good idea.
I will definatly take pictures for you. I got rid of the original mufflers and had quiter ones made I also had check valves made because I got water in the engine once through the exhaust because those flappers are not very effictive. ------------- Don Liberman |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-30-2010 at 5:22pm
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I thought about putting the live well in the starboard rear corner. I still might. I will make it an above floor live well though. The infloor wells just are not conducive to bottom fishing where I am. To much of a pain to get bait in and out. Can't wait to see the PICs.
John |
Posted By: tuna_tugger
Date Posted: August-30-2010 at 5:32pm
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I was talking about putting the live wells above the floor and between them I would put the rectanglar compartment that is on the aft deck now. We use it a lot. When you have the tank made make sure they put a couple of baffels in it. I saw a drawing of your new lay out but can't seem to locate it again. I'm just getting used to using this site, I'm not a very good computer geek. ------------- Don Liberman |
Posted By: firefight-n
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 11:33am
| hey bud nice job so far! im new to this site also but saw your rebuild so far. Im in the process of rebuilding an 1980 FN and have been doing the rebuild so far in the last 3 months. On my boat i stripped out to nothing inside the hull but where the step up is in the front deck, i left about 5 inches of it in from Starboard to port to keep its integrity. I saw the composite stringers also and loved the idea so build my own molds and made my own stringers for about a quarter the cost. The bulkheads i made out of marine Okouma marine grade ply glassed in then put a 175 gal fuel tank down the center of the hull. My boat im turning into an outboard boat though, thats why i can do that but i would def use the saddle tank idea... Where are you located in FL? |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 1:36pm
I am in the Melbourne/Palm Bay area. Do you have any photos of your build. I like the the stringer idea of doing it myself. I think I am going to go all composite when it comes to the bulkheads. There is a honey comb produce called Nida-Core that is awsome for doing bulkheads and supports. after seeing all the rotten wood in that boat I don't want anyone to ever have to do this again if I sell the boat. Are you supports the transome with wood also? If you haven't done it yet the compay I stated above make a composite pour transome product that I have used and it is great. They will send you a free gallon to play with and try out. Well if you have some photos email them to me or drop me an email maybe we can pick each others brains.. John |
Posted By: firefight-n
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 3:03pm
| yeah i heard the nida core is a good product but for all the cuts i had to do wood was a very easy and not costly alternative. i made 3 full length bulkheads and 6 ribs to make it strengthy. the transom i made an inner skin out of 6 layers of 1808 and tabbed it in then used the "pour in" sea cast which was super strong and came out real nice... its a big transom so it took 4- 5gal pals of the stuff. what does the pour product your talking about cost for a 5 gal pal? also i dont know how to put pictures on here so if you can, explain how to and ill put the pics on here of what ive done so far.. |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 4:42pm
| The Nida Pour Transome is $100 for 5Gals. not to bad for what you get. As for pics I just signed up for photobucket and uplaoded my Pics there. Its a free service, then once uploaded there you just post the link in your respnose on here and it will show the photo. |
Posted By: tuna_tugger
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 6:09pm
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I'll have you some pictures before the week is out. After chatting with some people yesterday I'm going to do some more trouble shooting on the engine and running gear before I dig into the hull like you are doing. I will checkinto photobuchet to upload the pictures. I have been thinking about your idea of putting the fuel tank ni front of the engine and I think it's a risky move. In all of my years around boat of all sized I have never seen fuel tanks forward of the engine. I have seen them on either side of the engine all the way back to the transom but never in front. I would consult with a narine engineer before making such a drastic move espically with all the labor and money you are putting into the boat. ------------- Don Liberman |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 6:50pm
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Hey Tuna_tugger, Yeah I am pretty much going to put the gas tanks on each side of the motor area. I scrapped the big belly tank idea. I think everyone on here was pretty much right about the weight issues I will have with a front mounted tank. Can't wait to get working on the boat again, My 12 hour shifts will end tomorrow so Thursday is dedicated to the boat. I will have some update pics.
John |
Posted By: tuna_tugger
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 6:56pm
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Have you calculated how big of a tank you will get on each side. I would cut my deck open to do that. Still trying to get hooked up with photobucket on face book. I have a love hate relationship with computers. I just ordered a hand held tachomiter to start more trouble shooting on the engine, should have it in a couple of weeks. ------------- Don Liberman |
Posted By: firefight-n
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 7:05pm
|
http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad84/firefight-n/108_0154.jpg
http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad84/firefight-n/108_0147.jpg http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad84/firefight-n/108_0155.jpg |
Posted By: firefight-n
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 7:10pm
| I dont know if i did this right but just figured id try with a few pics. Let me know if see them or not. These r just a few of the boat after stripping down to bear hull, looks to be where your at right now. |
Posted By: tuna_tugger
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 7:18pm
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You really took it down to bear bones inside and out. When you were taking it apart was there a hose that ran from the fish box in the bow to the engine conpartment? ------------- Don Liberman |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 7:20pm
------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 7:24pm
You are missing the image tag for them to show up. John |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 7:28pm
I will be able to put 46Gals on each side. Its a tad shy of my 100Gals but I am not gonna complain. I am having a mock up tank made now should have it by thursday if it fits I will post the exact dimensions for you guys to have. |
Posted By: tuna_tugger
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 7:45pm
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The existing tank is 73 gal but picking up that space in the back might be worth the work. I'm going to weigh the boat probibly Friday to see if I have water in the foam. The deck is strong and I have had the boat airborn and she is solard.
Those pictures of your boat look good. I copied and pasted them still trying to figure out photobucket with face book ------------- Don Liberman |
Posted By: firefight-n
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 7:45pm
| alright lol my wife is gonna show me how its done, ill have some more pics up in a few |
Posted By: firefight-n
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 7:56pm
|
<a href="http://s924.photobucket.com/albums/ad84/firefight-n/?action=view¤t=108_0468.jpg"><img src="http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad84/firefight-n/108_0468.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s924.photobucket.com/albums/ad84/firefight-n/?action=view¤t=108_0593.jpg"><img src="http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad84/firefight-n/108_0593.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s924.photobucket.com/albums/ad84/firefight-n/?action=view¤t=108_0638.jpg"><img src="http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad84/firefight-n/108_0638.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s924.photobucket.com/albums/ad84/firefight-n/?action=view¤t=108_0474.jpg"><img src="http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad84/firefight-n/108_0474.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s924.photobucket.com/albums/ad84/firefight-n/?action=view¤t=108_0469.jpg"><img src="http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad84/firefight-n/108_0469.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> |
Posted By: firefight-n
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 7:58pm
well i guess she didnt know what she was doing lol 
she said shes gonna try one more thing |
Posted By: firefight-n
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 7:59pm
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Posted By: firefight-n
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 8:01pm
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Posted By: firefight-n
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 8:04pm
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Posted By: tuna_tugger
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 8:04pm
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looks good. Are you putting the gas tank back where it was? ------------- Don Liberman |
Posted By: firefight-n
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 8:06pm
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Posted By: tuna_tugger
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 8:09pm
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I like your T top. What are you going to put in for power? ------------- Don Liberman |
Posted By: firefight-n
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 8:09pm
| tuna tugger- yeah its a 175 gal aluminum sitting more forward than aft due to the twin four strokes going on the bracket on the back |
Posted By: tuna_tugger
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 8:14pm
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Nice so you'll put the tank where the engine was. I would have liked to do that but the 4 strokes were a little out of my budget plus down here I had the 351 rebuilt for $1,200. Plus I hate fishing big fish with outboard engines. Keep the pics comming. I'll try and posta picture of my boat. ------------- Don Liberman |
Posted By: firefight-n
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 8:23pm
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yeah i hear ya. i got a good deal on the engines. but its been a hell of a ride so far and still lots to go
|
Posted By: tuna_tugger
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 8:38pm
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Ya she should kick ass. Are you putting a Armstrong floatation bracket? ------------- Don Liberman |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 9:04pm
I kinda am relieved that I have someone that is doing this the same time I am. It helps to compare notes and solve issues. Are you putting your old deck back on or building a new one? I am going new, just because all the hatches I want to put in. Not sure if you are going to put any hatches in but I am making molds and will pull my own. This way they look like factory instead of plastic store bought. Let me know, I can pull you a set too. John |
Posted By: firefight-n
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 10:43pm
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yeah i hear that! im sure your hatches are going to look great! If its not to much trouble, I would greatly appreciate it! i just threw my stringer molds away last week otherwise they couldve gone to you...
tuna tugger- yes im putting a custom bracket on the back, not "armstrong" brand but going to miami to have a friend weld one custom full for my boat... |
Posted By: firefight-n
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 11:25pm
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Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 11:36pm
| I noticed you took the secondary stringers out, Do you think this will be an issue for strength. I wanted to take mine out for the saddle tanks, but I am very hesitant. I was just going to cut them down about 3 inches but I would prefer to remove them. Whats your take?? |
Posted By: firefight-n
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 11:47pm
| as long as you have strength in the main line stringer, youll be fine but if your going to take both stringers out and put only 1 back in, you will have to split the difference b/w the keel and the side line chine and put the stringer there. this will gove you your integrity back. what are you going to build your deck out of? |
Posted By: tuna_tugger
Date Posted: September-01-2010 at 12:02am
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Nice fish where are you fishing? ------------- Don Liberman |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: September-01-2010 at 12:05am
And you will fix his boat when it breaks , I am sure you have the engineering skill to properly instruct such a change in the basic stringer design.Just asking? ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: September-01-2010 at 12:09am
| I am going to use Nida-Core 8HP 1 inch for the deck. What are you doing with that console you made? Are you using that as a template or is that going to be the underlaminate for the console? I like that design, just wondering if there would be enough room under there to fit the motor. I guess I am still a few weeks from worring about that. My console is not in the best of shape so I either need to rebuild it or build a new one. |
Posted By: tuna_tugger
Date Posted: September-01-2010 at 12:19am
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fire-fighten is putting outboard engines so the console doesn't have to tilt up. I put an access panel in the side of my console so I could check the oil and trans fluid with out tilting it up. Works out nice.
------------- Don Liberman |
Posted By: tuna_tugger
Date Posted: September-01-2010 at 2:58am
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Have you looked at www.boatbuilderscenteral.com They have good info. on stringer replacement. ------------- Don Liberman |
Posted By: firefight-n
Date Posted: September-01-2010 at 9:56am
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tuna tugger- fishin off port of everglades dolphin tourny...
jz- yeah thats the actual console i build and am using, its half inch ply and going to be glassed over on both sides and yes it is PLENTY big enough for an inboard engine, this console is almost twice the size of the console that came with the boat. but u can design and build any shape console u need to fit ur needs, its not hard at all... so did u figure out if your using the composite stringer system or r u going to build your own mold and build them yourself? |
Posted By: tuna_tugger
Date Posted: September-01-2010 at 12:05pm
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Nice fish I cought a 58lb dorardo (dolphin) one week before our tourny.. and a 20 lb the day of our tourny...I lost!!!! With a console that size I can imagin all the tackel compartments etc. you can do with it. I'm not sure yet wether or not I'm going to have to tear my boat apart. I found some punky wood when I was mounting a new power assist steering cylinder. Plus I can only get 3,600RPM and top speed is only 28 so I felt with the age of the boat I was heavy because of water in the foam and wood. First I'm going to weigh the boat and do some more trouble shooting on the engine before I dig into the hull. If I do tear into the hull I would keep the boat an inboard. Keep the pictures comming. ------------- Don Liberman |
Posted By: jzarski
Date Posted: September-01-2010 at 12:30pm
Not sure yet about the stringers. The premade ones are really not the expensive. For what I will needs they are $25-$30 for an 8ft section. It leans more towards the $30 when you add the carbon fiber top skin, which I think I might do to the secondary stringer. Once I get my Hull 100% cleared out I will start to do some major decision making. I did talk to a fellow that told me to not take the stringers out. He says to cut the tops off and dig all thats bad out and fill it in with the composite fill. Now, if I do that and there are just a few bad areas then yes I say I will go that route, but if the stringer is rotten 100% front to back I will just go ahead and replace it. I should know more tomorrow as I am off all day :) |
Posted By: firefight-n
Date Posted: September-01-2010 at 1:35pm
| yeah i talked to a guy that built a FN from the ground up and turned it into an outboard boat also so i took his ideas and started at it and so far this is where im at. gotta get some more supplies from US composites when im back down in WPB. Keep up the good work |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-01-2010 at 1:44pm
I dont mean to interrupt your conversation, but I think Billy raises a good point. I generally try to fix factory flaws and over-build my projects. To underbuild a boat compared to the factory specs can be a risky undertaking, so hopefully you have some good engineering justification that your changes will be acceptable. If not, I suppose that risk would only apply to your own boat and whoever you take out on it. To suggest that anyone else make the same changes to their boat without justifying the design is somewhat irresponsible. ------------- |
Posted By: firefight-n
Date Posted: September-02-2010 at 1:26am
| your exactly right im not saying to underbuild the stringer system by any means, all i meant was if he was having trouble with placement of his fuel tanks etc etc, that it is possible to refab the stringers in the boat... The stringers that were in the boat b4 were garbage 2x4. So yes overbuild the stringers if your going to pull the old. Sorry for the misunderstanding |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: September-02-2010 at 10:06am
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There's that other topic too...
I've never had my boat 50-60 miles from shore. Bobbing around in the ocean on a fart cushion reminds me of baiting a hook! ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |