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Woke up 84 - Purrrs like a kitten!

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=19160
Printed Date: June-27-2024 at 5:23pm


Topic: Woke up 84 - Purrrs like a kitten!
Posted By: NAUTI84
Subject: Woke up 84 - Purrrs like a kitten!
Date Posted: August-23-2010 at 11:20am
Trying to wake-up my 84 that’s been sleeping since it was winterized in the Fall of 2004. (351 PCM Ford w/ 550 hrs.)

Finally got her uncovered and gave her a quick bath.
Trying to find the time to get her fired-up again.
Doesn’t seem to want to turn by hand.
Soaked a few days with Marvel Mystery, then sucked that out and soaking with PB Blaster.
Put battery in and bumped with key.
Seemed to move slightly, but now seems like starter is still engaged?
Pulling starter next step?
I’ve also been told that an impact wrench on the pulley bolt is the best bet. (not sure if it’ll fit between pylon though?)
Unfortunately, I’m a real half-ass mechanic with very little time to work on her.
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.


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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84



Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-23-2010 at 11:25am
Try a breaker bar and socket on the front end of the engine. You won't have to worry about the pylon in the way besides, I'd worry about using a impact. You don't want to break something!!

The starter drive stuck because the engine is stuck. The drive usually disengages when the engine fires up over running the ring gear on the flywheel.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: August-23-2010 at 11:45am
Peter,
This is what I did -
15/16" socket, on a 3" extension, on a swivel drive.
I then added about a 2' pipe (only thing I had) slipped over that.
Gives me about 2'-6" to 3'-0" leverage off the bolt.
But so far doesn't seem to want to budge.
Not sure if I've got enough leverage or even how much pressure to put on the bolt (scared of snapping/stripping it)?

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-23-2010 at 12:19pm
Yes, you can only put so much pressure on the front end.

What's the condition of the battery? Starting or deep cycle?

On one occasion when I was afraid of putting too much pressure on the breaker bar, I ended up using a hole saw and drilling a hole in the bell housing right over the ring gear. Then very carfully using a large screwdriver engaged into the ring gear teeth would "walk" the engine backwards slightly then bump it with the starter. I did this maybe 5 or 6 times and broke it loose. Then I used a "cap plug" to close up the hole in the bell housing.

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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: August-23-2010 at 12:49pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Yes, you can only put so much pressure on the front end.

What's the condition of the battery? Starting or deep cycle?

On one occasion when I was afraid of putting too much pressure on the breaker bar, I ended up using a hole saw and drilling a hole in the bell housing right over the ring gear. Then very carfully using a large screwdriver engaged into the ring gear teeth would "walk" the engine backwards slightly then bump it with the starter. I did this maybe 5 or 6 times and broke it loose. Then I used a "cap plug" to close up the hole in the bell housing.


Whoa! Don't think I could drill a hole!
Looks like rain for the next couple, so she'll continue to soak.
Battery's always been on a tender, but maybe I'll give a different one a try.
Is it better to just touch starter bolt instead of going thru Ign.?

At first I was scared-shiet when she wouldn't budge, but researching old hot-rod and boat sites seems fairly common due to storage.
Every thing was running great when she was put to bed, so got my fingers crossed that nothing major should be wrong!
From what I've read the route is - Soak, Patiance, Soak, Patiance.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 1:14am
Does anyone know if there is anything else that I should be doing besides soaking the cyls.?
Is there anything else that might be frzen up?

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 9:04am
Originally posted by NAUTI84 NAUTI84 wrote:

Does anyone know if there is anything else that I should be doing besides soaking the cyls.?
Is there anything else that might be frzen up?

That's all you can do at this point. So, you don't want to try out a electric hand drill with a 1" dia. hole saw in it?

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 9:39am
The oil on the dipstick is clean, right? If so, you could pull the distributer and prime the oil system. That might help a little. It would at least get oil on most places that are about to turn.

I used the meathod Pete mentioned, but I was able to use the crank bolt to turn it back; and it only needs to move a bit for the starter to get a new swing. That little bit can also strip the crank bolt and the starter won't like it either, so easy does it.





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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 10:12am
you would be surprised since all the plugs are pulled to air the cylinder, hope one is at tdc on the comp stroke and put air to it, 150 psi works well, this generally will break it free..keep fingers away

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 10:55am
Eric,
That sounds interesting. Are you saying go plug hole to plug hole with an air hose @ 150psi? (What am I keeping fingers away from?)

Boy am I hoping to keep away from drilling 1" hole in the engine!

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: jayc
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 11:21am
I'd keep my fingers away from anything that has the potential to move, like pulleys and belts etc.

I've seen the odd bellhousing with a plastic plug in it and wondered what it was for. Now I know.



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1982 Nautique 2001 - 351W Dual Fuel
1982 Ski Tique - 351W Dual fuel
1996 Maxum 210ss -350 EFI Dual Fuel


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 11:32am
You'll need http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W84003/ - one of these to screw into one of the plug holes and then put the compressed air to it. Since the engine is locked up, it will take some trial and error to find a clyinder/piston on the compression stroke. You'll know right away because if it's not on compression, the air will just blow by a open valve.

Good suggestion Eric!! You deal with more lock ups than I do!!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: flipflop
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 12:39pm
interesting. good idea.


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 12:58pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

You'll need http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W84003/ - one of these to screw into one of the plug holes and then put the compressed air to it. Since the engine is locked up, it will take some trial and error to find a clyinder/piston on the compression stroke. You'll know right away because if it's not on compression, the air will just blow by a open valve.

Good suggestion Eric!! You deal with more lock ups than I do!!


Are you guys telling me that an air hose might have a better shot of freeing her than the starter and/or breaker bar????
Pete - Do you think I would I be able to use a rubber plug fitting, with my weight behind it, and hold in place?
I'm pretty sure I can tell which cyl's are at TDC from when I used a plastic tube to suck the Mystery oil out.

You mechanic guys love this stuff, for me it's nerve-racking. I just want to bust her loose without messing anything up!

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 1:29pm
I am curious how this works out. Very interesting...

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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson




Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 1:59pm
My trick with mine was to move it back and forth. If you can get it to move even slightly then you are home free just move it a little more each day while keeping it soaked in Marvel Mystery. You don't want to force it, the method is more like polishing the cylinders using the piston and rings while turnign the engine by hand.

More On Erics advice....

    Air to #1.
        If # 1 is not at TDC you could use air to any cylinder on the compression stroke to move the engien forwards or backwards.

Just pull the distributor cap and see which cyl the rotor is preparing to fire. If you are between 2 then the one it is past will turn the engine forwards and the one ahead will turn it backwards.   This will change as the engine moves and piston / valve position changes.

Mine fired up and ran smooth even after a deep freeze (Previous owner) cracked block and engine seizure from sitting in water. But then the cracked sleeve did me in.     

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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 2:06pm
Originally posted by Whitfield Whitfield wrote:

Just pull the distributor cap and see which cyl the rotor is preparing to fire. If you are between 2 then the one it is past will turn the engine forwards and the one ahead will turn it backwards.   This will change as the engine moves and piston / valve position changes.     

Very good idea!!

No I don't feel you'll be able to hold the pressure with a rubber plug.

Have you tried using your wrench set up on the front end of the engine to go the opposite way as suggested?

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 4:12pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Have you tried using your wrench set up on the front end of the engine to go the opposite way as suggested?


Sitting in the observer seat -
I first tried counter-clockwise (down to the left) which I believe is the way the starter turns the engine. That seemed to want to loosen the bolt.
Pressing clockwise (down to the right) seemed to tighten the bolt all the way but wouldn't budge it further.
When I bumped the ignition-
I bumped twice. It seemed to move very slightly on the 2nd bump, but then wouldn't bump anymore. That's when it seemed starter was locked in (Battery cables were getting hot).
I then tried jumper cables direct to starter bolt - No bump just a spark.

I'm figuring that once it stops raining, I should try jumpers from my truck battery, just to make sure the old boat battery wasn't lacking the kick power.

Do you think that air hose adapter can be found at a local parts store, at something like NAPA or PepBoys?

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: skicat
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 4:44pm
I'm not a mechanic, but reading through this thread the things that come to my mind are:

1)The battery is at least 6 yrs old just sitting on a tender?
2)Just checking, did you have the plugs out when trying to turn it over?
3)If the battery is bad could it have caused the starter to lock up & make it even more difficult to turn it over?

Go with Tim Allen- More Power!!!!!

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Greg

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2427&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985" rel="nofollow - 86 BFN


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 4:59pm
Originally posted by NAUTI84 NAUTI84 wrote:

Do you think that air hose adapter can be found at a local parts store, at something like NAPA or PepBoys?

Yes I'm sure they would have one but Greg above has brought up a good point. I too have thought about the battery condition. There are good battery "tenders" and bad ones but also the age of the battery is in question. Put it on a regular charger to make sure it has a full charge and then take it with you too the auto supply. They can do a load test on it which is really the only good way to determine a batteries health.

How are the battery cable terminals? Have you cleaned both them and the lugs on the battery with a wire type battery terminal cleaner?

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: skfitz
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 5:01pm
Originally posted by NAUTI84 NAUTI84 wrote:

. . .
I then tried jumper cables direct to starter bolt - No bump just a spark.

. . .

Potential problem. Can you pull starter and make sure it spins when energized somewhere other than on the seized engine?


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 5:18pm
Originally posted by skfitz skfitz wrote:

Originally posted by NAUTI84 NAUTI84 wrote:

. . .
I then tried jumper cables direct to starter bolt - No bump just a spark.

. . .

Potential problem. Can you pull starter and make sure it spins when energized somewhere other than on the seized engine?

I realy don't feel this will tell anything. Of course it's going to spin. We know there is continuity due to the warm battery cables plus but more important is the "Bendix" drive engaged. They don't engage unless that starter turns! A starter is really a pretty tough device. About the only things that go wrong with them are worn bushings causing the armature to drag on the field and worn brushes.

The engine is locked up!!

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: kytom2
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 5:34pm
In an effort to free the engine, if the starter bendix is engaged with the flywheel teeth , aren't you trying "back drive" the starter. If so WOULD it take more force to break the engine loose than normally?

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Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 6:00pm
Plugs are pulled. Cables and posts were cleaned. Battery read at +12v. But I think jump from another one may be the next step.
I was thinking the same - that if starter is engaged, aren't I trying to turn the engine against it?
Guys - thanks so much for the sounding board. I need all the help I can get to work through engine stuff!   

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 6:28pm
Originally posted by NAUTI84 NAUTI84 wrote:

Plugs are pulled. Cables and posts were cleaned. Battery read at +12v. But I think jump from another one may be the next step.
I was thinking the same - that if starter is engaged, aren't I trying to turn the engine against it?
Guys - thanks so much for the sounding board. I need all the help I can get to work through engine stuff!   

Without power to a starter, the armature spins real easy. The only drag is the brushes on the commutator.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 7:01pm
Originally posted by NAUTI84 NAUTI84 wrote:

Plugs are pulled. Cables and posts were cleaned. Battery read at +12v. But I think jump from another one may be the next step.
I was thinking the same - that if starter is engaged, aren't I trying to turn the engine against it?
Guys - thanks so much for the sounding board. I need all the help I can get to work through engine stuff!   


Hang in there buddy. Once you hear that motor fire, maybe you wont put her to sleep so long next time...

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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson




Posted By: Munday
Date Posted: August-24-2010 at 7:06pm
Pull the pulley off balancer,usually 3 bolts.Install 2 longer bolts all the way into balancer pry between bolts with long bar.Rock back and forth until full roration has been achived.Alot of times you can pull harmonic balancer and fit a large 12pt socket over the crank nose and it will catch the key.

Bob

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If the only tool you have is a hammer,everything starts to look like a nail.


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 12:28am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


I ended up using a hole saw and drilling a hole in the bell housing right over the ring gear. Then very carfully using a large screwdriver engaged into the ring gear teeth would "walk" the engine backwards slightly then bump it with the starter. I did this maybe 5 or 6 times and broke it loose. Then I used a "cap plug" to close up the hole in the bell housing.


Pete,
Was wondering, wouldn't pulling the starter give me access to the gear teeth like the 1" hole does??

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 9:05am
Originally posted by NAUTI84 NAUTI84 wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


I ended up using a hole saw and drilling a hole in the bell housing right over the ring gear. Then very carfully using a large screwdriver engaged into the ring gear teeth would "walk" the engine backwards slightly then bump it with the starter. I did this maybe 5 or 6 times and broke it loose. Then I used a "cap plug" to close up the hole in the bell housing.


Pete,
Was wondering, wouldn't pulling the starter give me access to the gear teeth like the 1" hole does??

Yes but then you need to R&R the starter everytime you want to "bump" the engine in the opposite direction. The real danger with doing this is screwing up the pilot bore for the starter with the shank of the big screwdriver. It also only allows you to access the side of the ring gear for the screwdriver to engage the teeth. The hole over the top allows you to really get the screwdriver down deep into the gear teeth. You don't want to damage the ring gear.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: NEDLUTZ
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 1:35pm
Scott I think sun is gettin ready to come out!!!


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 2:01pm
Originally posted by NEDLUTZ NEDLUTZ wrote:

Scott I think sun is gettin ready to come out!!!


Hope so!
How ya been?

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: NEDLUTZ
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 2:19pm
been doing good scott glad u asked ,getting ready to head to the camp.. hope all this rain brings the pond up some it was getting low. don't want to hit bottom with the boat,that would s???k big time,good luck with your boat if you need any tools or help let me no!!! B.
Scott your email is private,i was going give you my # if you had any questions 369-6276 cell


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: August-25-2010 at 2:44pm
Originally posted by NEDLUTZ NEDLUTZ wrote:

been doing good scott glad u asked ,getting ready to head to the camp.. hope all this rain brings the pond up some it was getting low. don't want to hit bottom with the boat,that would s???k big time,good luck with your boat if you need any tools or help let me no!!! B.
Scott your email is private,i was going give you my # if you had any questions 369-6276 cell


Thanks man, appreciate it.
Hopefully this old tug will cooperate soon!

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: August-26-2010 at 8:03pm
SHE's FREE!! :)

I guess (thanks to 4 days of rain) soaking in PB for awhile is what she needed.
Sun came out today, got home from work and figured I'd check to see if anything was different.
Put a little pressure on the socket wrench and it moved about an inch at first.
Gave her a few more squirts and was able to gently rock her back and forth up to a good quarter rotation with very little pressure.
Added generous squirts to each and I'll let her sit another day, and then work her some more.
I'm assuming that working to a full rotation SLOWLY is the best bet.



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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: Munday
Date Posted: August-27-2010 at 1:32am
I think what your fighting is rusty bores once you get it moving.Might be worth filling the cylinders as much as possible,but awful messy.

Bob

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If the only tool you have is a hammer,everything starts to look like a nail.


Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: August-27-2010 at 3:00am
Sounds like a heart beat. Keep us informed.

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...those who have fallen and those who will.


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: August-27-2010 at 9:51am
Any suggestions for getting the fuel pumping through the veins again?
I've drained the tank pretty well. (Seems like there is still a small amount in the bottom that just can't seem to pump out).
Will filling with a fresh 30 gallons be OK now?
Should I be adding some gas to carb.?

Tips I've gotten is to get her started, run until warm and then change oil.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-27-2010 at 10:04am
You will be fine adding the fresh gas.
Yes, squirting some gas down the carb is a good idea to get it to fire. It really doesn't take too many cranks to get the carb filled up with gas.

Anything with the battery yet?

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-27-2010 at 10:53am
Suggest priming the oil system before firing it up. Buffalo BFN already posted this. Just need to pull the dizzy & use a screwdriver extension on a drill. Make sure & get the dizzy back in the same position - take a picture if need be.

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: August-27-2010 at 1:29pm
If it were mine I'd pull the float bowls clean them up and make them spotless then pump the first quart of fuel thru the system and into a catch can (not the carb). Sediment and varnish from sitting can leave you with a month of headache and worry if you try to suck it thru the carb.    

On the oil pump prime ~ Removing the dist and turning the pump gurantees good oil flow first (Good advice). I'll usually short cut it and just start the enigne with the coil disconnected / pumping the bad fuel out / fresh fuel flush. This primes the oil pump and establishes basic oil ciculation while under no load.

Coil disconnected with fuel line disconnected = Fire hazzard
Be safe in doing this....

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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: August-30-2010 at 10:10am
Well, she's loose and spinning free.
Spent a lot of time gently rocking her back and forth by hand.
Put battery back in and went to bumping her to spin oil out.
Turned key off and she just kept spinning! Guess the relay is sticking. (That must heve been the problem when I thought the starter was stuck engaged.) A good tap with the socket wrench frees it.

Now getting her started seems to be the next hurdle.
Added full tank of new gas. Gas does'nt seem to be getting up to carb yet. But, even priming carb didn't seem like she had any fire.
The secondary throttle/air flapper seemed locked up. Soaked that PB and got it so it would move by hand again.
Pulled off Dist.cap and cleaned that up.

Still plugging away at it!

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: August-30-2010 at 5:27pm
Nauti84,   I have in the past loosened the fuel line into the carb, put it in a bucket, and added a LITTLE air pressure to the tank until the fuel was in the line.    I use my hand as a seal, and put a little pressure in by using my blow gun in short spurts until the fuel goes into the bucket.   Might be worth a try if your batt is weak.



Posted By: dmiracle
Date Posted: August-30-2010 at 11:18pm
Originally posted by Dreaming Dreaming wrote:

I use my hand as a seal, and put a little pressure in by using my blow gun in short spurts



Sorry guys...I've watched ya'll play this game for awhile. Couldn't resist.

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Doug


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 1:22pm
Originally posted by Dreaming Dreaming wrote:

Nauti84,   I have in the past loosened the fuel line into the carb, put it in a bucket, and added a LITTLE air pressure to the tank until the fuel was in the line.    I use my hand as a seal, and put a little pressure in by using my blow gun in short spurts until the fuel goes into the bucket.   Might be worth a try if your batt is weak.


Thanks. Good idea to at least see if I've got fuel past the filter.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: h20loo
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 2:26pm
Lots of good info here, in fact it probably should be stickied.
I like the bell housing hole idea and Erics air hose idea(I bet your shop compressor is running lots of pressure).
I do some antique cars and my first step is to drain the oil and fill the engine up to the top of the barrels with diesel fuel. I let it sit for weeks if nessesary and try to give it a little crank everyday until I get it spinning free. I had an old "hit n' miss"(Pete knows what this is) that took me a whole winter to free up but it had been out in a field for over 50 years.

Glad you got yours free Nauti84.

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70 Mustang project


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 10:55pm
I think I've kind of reached a stalling point.
Engine now spins by hand and by key.
But when I spin by key sounds very slow.
Battery shows 12.3 and goes down to almost nothing when I turn key.
Tried Jumper cables from my jeep but still sounded too slow.
Squirted gas in carb but doesn't seem to have enough umph to even try to start. Not sure if I've just got a battery problem, carb problem, both?
Maybe I'll try another battery after the storm blows though this week.
Looking like it's time to find an engine guy who makes house calls!


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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: NEDLUTZ
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 11:03pm
scott give my cousin Arther a call he lives next to my mom tell him who you r and that you no me and the family..he does house calls very cheap,i don't have his number but i can get it for you. or you can stop by and talk to him.


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: August-31-2010 at 11:40pm
check the condition of all conections...measure volts at coil etc..


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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: September-01-2010 at 4:14pm
Originally posted by NEDLUTZ NEDLUTZ wrote:

scott give my cousin Arther a call he lives next to my mom tell him who you r and that you no me and the family..he does house calls very cheap,i don't have his number but i can get it for you. or you can stop by and talk to him.


Thanks.
Don't think I actually know him, but my daughter's boyfriend's father is into the classic cars and knows/does some work with him.


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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: September-01-2010 at 6:18pm
Originally posted by NAUTI84 NAUTI84 wrote:


Battery shows 12.3 and goes down to almost nothing when I turn key.
Tried Jumper cables from my jeep but still sounded too slow.
Maybe I'll try another battery after the storm blows though this week.
Looking like it's time to find an engine guy who makes house calls!


Try the battery first.... Carbs are more expensive, and usually a 6 yr old batt is pretty well on its last legs even if it was on a trickle charger.   THe jump may not help because of voltage drop through the cables, and the resistance through an old weak battery. You've got to spin the motor reasonably fast for it to crank.... definitly start with the easy stuff


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: September-01-2010 at 6:44pm
Originally posted by Dreaming Dreaming wrote:

Try the battery first.... Carbs are more expensive, and usually a 6 yr old batt is pretty well on its last legs even if it was on a trickle charger.   THe jump may not help because of voltage drop through the cables, and the resistance through an old weak battery. You've got to spin the motor reasonably fast for it to crank.... definitly start with the easy stuff


Thanks. Makes sense.
Think I'll pull one of my RV batteries and give it a try.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: September-01-2010 at 7:14pm
+ 1 on new battery
My battery was 5 years old and was reading 12.3, so I kept thinking it was good. Got to the lake for a water test and turned it over a couple of times and it died. Even if it charged enough to start her up again, it was not holding much power. Not worth the risk of getting stranded.

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: September-01-2010 at 8:19pm
RV house batteries are typically deep cycle not starting batteries and may even be 6v so check it out before yanking them out, I would just go buy a new one you'll need it anyway.

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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-01-2010 at 10:16pm
Originally posted by Keeganino Keeganino wrote:

+ 1 on new battery
My battery was 5 years old and was reading 12.3, so I kept thinking it was good.


Since my little Mustang doesn't have much of an electrical load, I always use one out of one of my cars and get a new one for it.Right now I'm still using the original battery out of my '01 Cherokee

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: September-02-2010 at 12:38am
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Originally posted by Keeganino Keeganino wrote:

+ 1 on new battery
My battery was 5 years old and was reading 12.3, so I kept thinking it was good.


Since my little Mustang doesn't have much of an electrical load, I always use one out of one of my cars and get a new one for it.Right now I'm still using the original battery out of my '01 Cherokee


That is a good battery!

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: SS 201
Date Posted: September-05-2010 at 10:18am
Did you pull the starter off to check the bendix to see if it is seized? Spin to check with the starter off to sure the starter. Take a broom handle and push it on the bendix drive while turning it over. It should grind the handle.If it does the starter is ok.
Also with plugs out spraw some wd 40 in the bores and let it set a while before trying to spin over, if you don't you take the risk of breaking the top ring or worse.


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: September-06-2010 at 11:49am
Almost there!
She's kicking and sputtering, fighting to turn over.
(Weak battery seemed to be biggest prob.)
Now just seem to be having trouble getting the gas flow.
Will also grab some new plugs, but was hoping that the old ones cleaned up would at least get it to turn over before changing.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-06-2010 at 11:53am
Pour an oz. of gas down the carb throat. (put the flame arrestor back on!) That ought to feed her for a few seconds.

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: September-09-2010 at 9:45am
New plugs in.
She's so close to starting. Doesn't seem to be pulling any gas though.
Can someone explain how the fuel system works?
I've tried priming fuel filter, but I don't seem to be getting it up to the carb.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: September-09-2010 at 10:14am
This may sound dumb, but do you have a fuel shut-off?

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: September-09-2010 at 10:20am
Scott did you do like snobsessed suggested and put a little fuel directly into the carb. It should fire right up and that should be enough to get the fuel pump working on it own. You might have to do this a few times before there's fuel pressure. Better hurry up it'a almost time to winterize it!!

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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: September-09-2010 at 12:22pm
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

Scott did you do like snobsessed suggested and put a little fuel directly into the carb. It should fire right up and that should be enough to get the fuel pump working on it own. You might have to do this a few times before there's fuel pressure. Better hurry up it'a almost time to winterize it!!


Alan,
Ohh yea, trying both fuel and starter fluid.
That seems to be what it's almost kicking on.
But I'm guessing carb, hard line down to pump, and into filter has completely dried out?
We had disconnected the hard line from carb and squrted a little fluid in the line, bumped ignition and it squirted, so I'm guessing pump is working.

Can someone tell me if I'm right -
Pumping throttle doesn't actually work the pump itself.
Engine needs to run in order for pump to pull fuel?

My next thought is to disconnect hard line again. Pour some fuel down from there, prime Filter thru top screw vent holes, and then try some air pressure (like someone mentioned) to see if it'll push fuel full all the way from tank to carb?
I'm hoping that if entire line is primed, and it kicks, the fuel will flow.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: September-09-2010 at 12:25pm
Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

This may sound dumb, but do you have a fuel shut-off?


No shut-off on these things that I ever knew of.
Always wondered how you go about changing the fuel filter - Pinched line?

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-09-2010 at 1:14pm
Fill as much of the lines and filter with gas as you can. If the fuel pump is still good, the gas should make it to the engine.

Getting a decent battery as mentioned several times will certainly help as well. Starting - Not RV/deep cycle.

Lay off the starting fluid. It's a strong solvent that washes the oil off the cylinder walls. Too much and you'll end up with a low compression engine. Stick with squirting some gas down the carb.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: September-09-2010 at 1:27pm
Originally posted by NAUTI84 NAUTI84 wrote:

Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

This may sound dumb, but do you have a fuel shut-off?


No shut-off on these things that I ever knew of.


On our 88s there is a valve going in to the Fram housing.





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Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: September-09-2010 at 1:38pm
Originally posted by NAUTI84 NAUTI84 wrote:

New plugs in.
She's so close to starting. Doesn't seem to be pulling any gas though.
Can someone explain how the fuel system works?
I've tried priming fuel filter, but I don't seem to be getting it up to the carb.


Disconnect the rubber hose at the bottom of the fuel pump and get another rubber hose and connect one end to the fuel pump and the other to a gas can with fresh gas.

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Posted By: h20loo
Date Posted: September-09-2010 at 3:38pm
Hope you get to the source of your problem.

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70 Mustang project


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: September-09-2010 at 3:44pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Fill as much of the lines and filter with gas as you can. If the fuel pump is still good, the gas should make it to the engine.

Getting a decent battery as mentioned several times will certainly help as well. Starting - Not RV/deep cycle.

Lay off the starting fluid. It's a strong solvent that washes the oil off the cylinder walls. Too much and you'll end up with a low compression engine. Stick with squirting some gas down the carb.


Thanks Peter - will stick with the gas.
Actually pulled the MH's chassis battery (starting not deep cycle).
That did the trick on boosting the cranking power for her (Although even that is getting drawn down after cranking too many times).

Behindtheprop - Might be worth a try with hose to a small tank.
Does anyone know if someplace like the local H.D. carry this type of hose?


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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: NEDLUTZ
Date Posted: September-09-2010 at 3:49pm
autozone,nappa,pepboys..,scott will you be working on her tonight??


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: September-09-2010 at 4:20pm
Originally posted by NEDLUTZ NEDLUTZ wrote:

autozone,nappa,pepboys..,scott will you be working on her tonight??


Hey Brian, No not tonight (Kids Sports have me tied-up the next couple days!)
I did look-up Arthur's number though.
I'll try a couple more of these suggestions and if they don't work, I'll have to give him a call.
I'm sure no mechanic - So when it comes to pulling distributers and dealing with carburators I'm done!
I'm just hoping that it's simply fuel lines that are dry as a bone after sitting for 6 years!
She seems real close to starting though! Got my fingers crossed.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: NEDLUTZ
Date Posted: September-09-2010 at 4:28pm
ok Scott when you get ready to try again give me a call i can prob. swing by to give you a hand to get her going it's more than likely just the fuel from the tank to the carb. it takes a little bit to get the fuel all the way up to the pump..let a lone the carb.


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: September-12-2010 at 3:09pm
SHE'S ALIVE & WELL!!!!

Pulled fuel line primed from carb back to filter.
Primed filter thru top vent holes.
Lots of sips of gas thru carb.
Then she finally kicked over!

Running SMOOTH!
Ran thru about (4) trash barrels of water and starts every time with a turn of the key. Perfect oil pres and op.temp.

Thanks to everyone who walked me thru this!
TIP - Don't let your boat sleep for six years.
Very grumpy when they wake up! ;)

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: September-12-2010 at 3:36pm
Been watching this thread for quite a long time. Very cool That you finally got her running.


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"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-12-2010 at 3:59pm


-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: flipflop
Date Posted: September-12-2010 at 4:05pm
Glad you got it started.


Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: September-12-2010 at 6:02pm
Sweet! This has been a very interesting thread, espcially since you have the 351 Ford. Curious after all that sitting if she was gonna fire again. Glad you got her running... What a beautiful sound....

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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson




Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: September-13-2010 at 12:01am
I love a happy ending! Good work.

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: September-13-2010 at 9:48am
Originally posted by skicat2001 skicat2001 wrote:

Sweet! This has been a very interesting thread, espcially since you have the 351 Ford. Curious after all that sitting if she was gonna fire again. Glad you got her running... What a beautiful sound....


Grabbed a beer and was sitting there checking everything out as it ran.
Daughter comes out and says "Dad are you just gonna sit and listen to the engine all afternoon?"
I said "Yeah"   

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: September-13-2010 at 8:05pm
Originally posted by NAUTI84 NAUTI84 wrote:

Originally posted by skicat2001 skicat2001 wrote:

Sweet! This has been a very interesting thread, espcially since you have the 351 Ford. Curious after all that sitting if she was gonna fire again. Glad you got her running... What a beautiful sound....


Grabbed a beer and was sitting there checking everything out as it ran.
Daughter comes out and says "Dad are you just gonna sit and listen to the engine all afternoon?"
I said "Yeah"   




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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson




Posted By: Barracuda
Date Posted: September-18-2010 at 1:54pm
Scott, glad to hear you got your boat running again.
Now, get out there and ski it quick before you have to winterize it

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Former:
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=759" rel="nofollow - '86 Nautique
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=507" rel="nofollow - '65 Barracuda


Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: September-18-2010 at 3:02pm
Yea and he got that one for sale. If I was in search of a CC, that one there would be top on my list. Thats sharp looking boat.

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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson




Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: September-18-2010 at 9:29pm
Originally posted by Barracuda Barracuda wrote:

Scott, glad to hear you got your boat running again.
Now, get out there and ski it quick before you have to winterize it


Thanks Brad!
Sure nice to hear it running again!
That cold weather will be here before we know it.
Added the "For Sale" accessory to her, but still not 100% sure on letting her go.
Getting her cleaned up and taking some new pics to add today.
The more time I spend working on her again, the tougher it gets, so we'll see how it goes.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: Salty
Date Posted: September-19-2010 at 6:44pm
Great thread!! Congatulations.

I am getting ready to go through the same thing on a boat that has been stored in doors for the last 17 years but the motor has been turned every 3- 6 months with drops of oil in each cylinder.   

Hope I can report the same success here in a week or so.

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Salty

2018 GS22 with Z4
2008 Ski Nautique 206 w/Factory Tower, EX343 SOLD
1978 Southwind 18 w/GM305, upgraded 4 barrel intake & carb, all original - vinyl & carpet, etc.

[URL=http://s328.photobucket.com


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: September-19-2010 at 8:43pm
Originally posted by Salty Salty wrote:

Great thread!! Congatulations.

I am getting ready to go through the same thing on a boat that has been stored in doors for the last 17 years but the motor has been turned every 3- 6 months with drops of oil in each cylinder.   

Hope I can report the same success here in a week or so.


Good Luck!
Patience is the key!

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-19-2010 at 8:47pm
Originally posted by NAUTI84 NAUTI84 wrote:

Originally posted by Salty Salty wrote:

Great thread!! Congatulations.

I am getting ready to go through the same thing on a boat that has been stored in doors for the last 17 years but the motor has been turned every 3- 6 months with drops of oil in each cylinder.   

Hope I can report the same success here in a week or so.


Good Luck!
Patience is the key!

How about a decent battery!

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: September-19-2010 at 9:11pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by NAUTI84 NAUTI84 wrote:


Good Luck!
Patience is the key!

How about a decent battery!



You da man Peter!

I even gave it one more try today after charging it for a week (ya I'm a stubborn Scot!), result = Nada!
That sucker is dead!

Thanks again for all the help!

Added a link to http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i79/scottanannmc/NAUTIQUE/ - NEW 84 PICS
After seeing how good she still looks and sounds, who knows maybe she won't be going anywhere, and will make it to next year's reunion

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: September-19-2010 at 10:26pm
Thats a sharp looking boat... Beautiful!!

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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson




Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: September-20-2010 at 1:32am
Originally posted by NAUTI84 NAUTI84 wrote:


After seeing how good she still looks and sounds, who knows maybe she won't be going anywhere, and will make it to next year's reunion


Now you're talkin' Scott....after all the years you've owned her (over 20) you'll surely miss her if you let her go.

See ya at a Reunion!

john

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"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...



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