Shaft Alignment and strut bearing
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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=19394
Printed Date: November-26-2024 at 5:13am
Topic: Shaft Alignment and strut bearing
Posted By: SharkSN
Subject: Shaft Alignment and strut bearing
Date Posted: September-09-2010 at 5:56pm
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Took the driveshaft flange coupler bolts out about 10 minutes ago. I have ~ 0.004 around the bottom, and 0.000 (can't get the gauge in) around the top of the flanges. It's tight. So me thinks the front of the motor needs to come up a bit??
Also my drive shaft will not spin by hand uncoupled. I can grab the prop with ski gloves on and turn it. Once it "breaks" loose it turns OK but sure is sticky. What should I be looking at?? It's in the water now. Thanks. 1997 SN |
Replies:
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: September-09-2010 at 6:17pm
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Its probably OK..... No torque to spin it in the boat.
The strut bearing seems to be good for 1000 hours or so...see if you can wiggle the shaft in the strut out of the water next time. Tim ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-09-2010 at 6:25pm
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Before you move the engine ether up or down, find out where the shaft is "happy" (turns freely) in the strut and then check to make sure it's centered in the shaft log. If it's not, then you'll need to do a strut alignment. You'll need to get it out of the water. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SharkSN
Date Posted: September-09-2010 at 6:44pm
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1300 hours probably my strut bearing is done then. I have a new prop coming here today or tomorrow so am pulling boat and will take a look.
To slip the shaft all out - it looks like the flange, then the collar comes off and the whole thing pulls out? Thanks for the advice. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-09-2010 at 7:04pm
I'd suggest a new cutlass bearing as long as you are at the 1300 hours. Yes the shaft side of the coupling half needs to come off but it should be a heat to shrink zero to -.001" fit. You'll need to use the "spacer and threaded rod trick" to remove it. I'll see if I can find a link to a thread on the procedure. Then the safety collar comes off. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=19143&KW=threaded+rod&PID=233852&title=coupler-removal#233852 - I found the thread ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
SharkSN wrote:Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: September-09-2010 at 7:18pm
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Shark-
If your shaft is perfectly straight I would machine it for the ARE coupler. I think I read another post where you have manufacturing capability??? ------------- |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: September-09-2010 at 11:06pm
Wrong If the gap is at the bottom the front has to go down. A little tip for ya. If you need to shift the motor side to side at all, loosen the cinch bolts then spin the nut to the top of the bolt and give it a tap or two. You will see the cinch bolt drop to the nut, then she'll move nice and easy. Same with the front but they go horizontally instead of vertical. |
Posted By: SharkSN
Date Posted: September-10-2010 at 2:35am
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> If the gap is at the bottom the front has to go down.
Thanks for pointing that out..Good thing i'm an prof. engineer(really) doh! Anyway I just spun it a couple of times and bolted her back up. ACME prop showed up at the door step. The shaft seems to spin easier now, I was able to turn it one hand while installing. I'll post pix on the CARBON TSC1 thread. The ARE and OJ dripless look like great upgrades. Not sure I need them at the moment. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-10-2010 at 10:47am
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Shark - Make sure & lap in that new prop. If you don't know what I am talking about do a search for 'Lapping prop'. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-10-2010 at 11:08am
Here's the thread that Chris mentioned above: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12866&KW=proper+prop&PID=145077&title=span-classhighlightproper-span-span-classhighlightprop-span-installation#145077 - proper prop installation
Paul, Did you end up moving the engine? You said you were .004" off when you first checked it. Did you check for a bent shaft? Forward of the strut, it's easy and part of the alignment procedure. We don't want to see you blow the tail end of the trans out and end up sending it to Eric for a rebuild!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SharkSN
Date Posted: September-10-2010 at 6:29pm
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no i didn't touch the engine until i study a bit more about it. I understand the prop lapping like valve lapping - thanks for that info, good idea. A ton of load being driven through that drive shaft/prop union. The better balanced the whole assembly is the cleaner it will run.
But too late boat's back in the water + didn't have the time for it. I'll do that when I pull it for winter in about 8 weeks. I was able to knock the OJ off by hand, it's been loose I could hear it clunking in reverse. Also the castle nut i had to back off to make the cotter hole a couple of years ago. The ACME prop went on a bit deeper than a the OJ with the castle nut snugged up. |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: September-10-2010 at 7:02pm
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After you lap the prop on, the castle nut will be a formality. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |